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well Kryonaut arrived, and installed, I see a surprising 15 degree F drop in temps, shocked as arctic silver was on there. it seemed to dry up and was most likely not making good thermal contact.

Edited by mikmaze
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2 hours ago, mikmaze said:

well Kryonaut arrived, and installed, I see a surprising 15 degree F drop in temps, shocked as arctic silver was on there. it seemed to dry up and was most likely not making good thermal contact.

 

Can you provide some quick thermal tests? I use mx-4, re-pasted recently but I always get 100-105 °C @ less than 1 minute. I also use 3840QM. You can easily check temps with throttlestop with TS Bench.

 

https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-throttlestop/ 

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TS bench, the longest test, 1024M  ran in 214 seconds, saw 40.2 watts pkg power, max temp was 82 c .   set to performance in ts.    I would spend the 10 bucks and get a syringe of kryo and give it a try.

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12 minutes ago, mikmaze said:

TS bench, the longest test, 1024M  ran in 214 seconds, saw 40.2 watts pkg power, max temp was 82 c .   set to performance in ts.    I would spend the 10 bucks and get a syringe of kryo and give it a try.

 

thanks! very different than me...

max 105°C, max power 41,6 W, throttling down

 

do you use the original fan or there is any mod or open case?

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8 hours ago, mikmaze said:

back cover removed

 

Just for fun removed the bottom cover when compiling something... Got temperature drop from 90 to 75 celsius almost instantly, that's really a lot. Sadly, i don't want to drill the cover or use the nb without it, looks like performance limit to 99% is the only solution for me. With 3210 (i've installed my 3740qm back) i had ~70 celsius and 15W power consumption max without perf limit. Looks like cooling system in my nb can't keep cpu at 80 degrees when power consumption is >20W. Probably better plates resoldering to the heatpipe can give some cold (they was warm at compiling), but that's a tricky operation.

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see, I use mine as a desktop replacement, it sits with the cover closed plugged into a 27 inch 4k monitor, wireless mouse and wireless full sized keyboard.    only time I open the cover is when I need to use the power button if for some reason I get stuck and can't start the rig from dead.

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9 hours ago, mikmaze said:

see, I use mine as a desktop replacement, it sits with the cover closed plugged into a 27 inch 4k monitor, wireless mouse and wireless full sized keyboard.    only time I open the cover is when I need to use the power button if for some reason I get stuck and can't start the rig from dead.

Used 2570p dock stations in the local stores are pretty cheap nowadays. I've buyed a dock for 2560p for $10 and don't open the lid about 4 months in a row when used it as dedicated workstation - dock have its own power button. Must-buy thing as for me.

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ok, what beenfit does using the docking station have over not having it?   I could see if it had an additional fan to bring more air to the unit for cooling, or had more available power to supply to the cpu, but thats a dream......

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2 hours ago, mikmaze said:

ok, what beenfit does using the docking station have over not having it?   I could see if it had an additional fan to bring more air to the unit for cooling, or had more available power to supply to the cpu, but thats a dream......

 

actually it hides a part of the fan air out grid, an instead it offers a smaller hole for the air to be released. So for 4 core cpu's not a good thermal solution. I think I will have to get the cover out. Other than this design fail, docking station has benefits, more usb ports and  better cable management, small size and elegant appearance.

Edited by istinnstudio
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Hello. I've seen that this laptop's problem is screen brightness. I managed to make the display go at the maximum level of brightness using DIY eGPU setup 1.35, this dsdt.aml file compiled by me made especially for this: https://www.mediafire.com/file/g275hv2zb4rf7xg/dsdt.aml/file and this startup.bat file which loads the dsdt: https://www.mediafire.com/file/wxhadghqbp78kpz/startup.bat/file . What do you have to do: Mount the eGPU-Setup-135.img file, go to the config folder and copy these two files in that folder. Then restart, enter in diy egpu setup and press enter on the option 2 for startup,bat. Then the windows will boot up, the screen will go black, then you need to press the power button to make the laptop go to sleep and then press again the power button to start the laptop from sleep and the brightness would get the highest possible. It works for me and it is very useful.

Edited by AndyAndrei
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  • 2 weeks later...

I want to add a gpu to my 2570p. I know the expresscard slot bottlenecks the thoroughput of the gpu.So my question is: What is the best gpu that maximizes the capacity of the expresscard port, (and also is easy to implement to my system)?

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi to everyone,

digging into solutions found by manifacturers to pack more battery capacity, I found that the ThinkPad line allowed to fit an extra battery into the DVD slot, a solution known as Ultrabay Battery.

Could It be possible to do the same with our little beast out of the box? Or it has to be involved some wiring?

Thanks in advance.

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4 hours ago, Filippo B said:

Hi to everyone,

digging into solutions found by manifacturers to pack more battery capacity, I found that the ThinkPad line allowed to fit an extra battery into the DVD slot, a solution known as Ultrabay Battery.

Could It be possible to do the same with our little beast out of the box? Or it has to be involved some wiring?

Thanks in advance.

I have been playing recently with battery alternatives for the 8570p (all involving wiring...)

 

1. One thing I did, I ripped the stock cells from a cheap after-market battery and stuffed it with good 3500MAh cells.

It works, but I find calibration a bit tedious, as the OS tends to sleep/power-off at voltages way above cell design termination (something like 3.3V vs 2.5V). Which results in less-than-spectacular Wh ratings

 

2. Another thing I did - wired another 3 cells in parallel, effectively getting a 9-cell battery. Bit longer-lasting, but re-calibration takes even longer (https://photos.app.goo.gl/qSzCnPaL2KGNvQ7i7)

 

Both of the above rely on the battery (i.e. the board inside) being a non-original one, which generally is known to allow fiddling (original ones for example have pre-programmed max cycle count, and some even reduce capacity to protect ageing cells. Obviously inconvenient for our purposes). However my non-original battery turned out to be too much of a cheapo, it cuts at loads above ~60W which is a problem for some purposes.

 

3. This is my current project: feeding 19V directly to the power jack, by cable from an external battery. This consists of the following things:

3.1 Battery configuration of your own liking -  for example a setup 3x3 of 18650 sticks, resulting in a battery of 11.2V nominal, and capacity of 10500MAh in case of 3500MAh cells.

3.2 DC-DC converter that converts whatever voltage the battery feeds into it, to 18.5 or 19.5 V (or anything in between or around it is usually fine). Probably $10-15 on AliExpress or your local electronics shop.

3.3 Charger jack with the center pin wired with resistors to the V+ wire, so that it gives between 5 and 6 volts (so we fool the laptop thinking it's a real charger). I'm not an expert in electronics so do your own reading if you want to do this one. One mistake I initially made was use low-ohms resistors  (like 5 and 14 Ohms), which set them on fire... Now I'm using probably 5K and 14K Ohm resistors.

I tested this one and it worked nicely. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7rPJje77v8hg6yZT6

 

Maybe always good to mention - be careful fiddling with the 18650 cells. They can release ridiculous amounts of energy if shorted (that is, you can set yourself on fire, etc.)

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can you do something interesting with a i7 3610qm, using software or just leave it as it is. I have run prime 95 and w95 prime for a few hours and it hit 102 and I have no idea wether it's loosing or gaining power at all or not :)

 

also there's an bios update from 2019 for windows 10 machines anyone tried that? :)

 

Edited by stoyancho
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