Jump to content

Recommended Posts

update on the stock heatsink:

 

400 degrees for a few minutes, with the parts elevated made them basically super easy to fall off. I lost no silver solder in the process so i'll reuse it when welding back with reverse process. the part with all the fins will slide out as well and with a little dremel action you could potentially slide in a bigger copper pipe and reapply silver solder and heat back up and it will stick. 

DSC_8288.JPG

DSC_8289.JPG

  • Thumbs Up 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

update on a prototype heatsink version 1:

 

I have no access to any real tools of any kind which makes all this very difficult.

I had to hold this by hand and saw down the fins which takes an eternity and is not very straight. You can see the saw below, small and flimsy. A band saw would be quick and straight. 

 

So I took the saw to the bottom of the heatsink to make way for the copper pipe and used the dremel to flatten it out. Very long process as it gets hot quick. 

 

All this was done on aluminum for the first run but i do have a nice copper one that will be the final design. I went this route because the fan attaches on the topside on this one.

DSC_8334.JPG

DSC_8320.JPG

DSC_8307.JPG

DSC_8313.JPG

DSC_8316.JPG

DSC_8317.JPG

DSC_8318.JPG

DSC_8319.JPG

  • Thumbs Up 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is with the fan attached and a few test fits. At first glance it fits well and the lid goes on easy cause the cutout is wide enough. It would then need some screen to cover the whole, no problem. 

 

Then if you check the last picture, you will see what happened. This particular "Coolermaster" mini fan is too tall, the MSI one won't be here for another couple weeks, issues from china sending the wrong one. 

 

Unless I add really tall rubber legs and build a cage around the fan, I think it sticks out too far clearly. 

 

So I have 3 more versions to try, I'll keep you posted.

 

 

DSC_8321.JPG

DSC_8323.JPG

DSC_8325.JPG

DSC_8326.JPG

DSC_8332.JPG

DSC_8333.JPG

  • Thumbs Up 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there. I noticed in OP that 2570p supports AC Wireless. I would like to buy a intel ac wireless card. I see on ebay that they are just wifi or wifi+bluetooth. I'm kinda confused. From what I know 2570p has bluetooth and wifi separately right? Mine is a 3360M cpu (A1L17AV). Could someone point me to a compatible AC card on ebay? I'm afraid not to chose a non compatible one.
Also, in order to install that AC wireless card so I need to make any bios update or something?
Thank you guys, appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can buy any version,with or without bluetooth.The version with bluetooth will not show the bluetooth part in device manager,because the mini pcie slot have not pins connected.

So you are safe with any version,wlan part will work anyway.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello  guys. I decided to explain my mod about how to install two HDD and one SSD  into our laptop. You can also use two SSD to make RAID-0 and one HDD as file's archive. You need several things to do this mod. 

1. Caddy box made from plastic.

s-l1600 (1).jpg

2. Sata to mSata adaptor.

s-l1600.jpg

3. Slimline 13 pin SATA Male to 22 Pin SATA Female Cable Adapter.

s-l1600 (5).jpg

4. USB 2.0 to SATA 7+15 Pin 22Pin adapter cable for 2.5 HDD.

s-l1600 (2).jpg

But must notice that I use the Bluetooth USB port to connect a HDD to motherboard. My previous mod is wiring the WLAN USB pins to the docking connector to enable WLAN Bluetooth and I no need a stock bluetooth.
Take the caddy box and move off everything from plastic. Cut the plastic box like on the photo and cut off all of webbings inside of the box. 
Before a wanted to use the Slimline 13 pin SATA Male to 22 Pin SATA Female Cable Adapter wholly, but it was impossibly to install into caddy box. The place is not enough. I just cut the cable and soldered it to mSata adaptor. 
I soldered off the connector 22 Pin SATA from mSata adaptor too.  I used a schematic below:

2017-01-28_223426.jpg

You need use countersunk screws to fasten HDD, mSata adaptor and Slimline connector.

IMG_6594.JPG

  • Thumbs Up 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_6587.jpg

IMG_6525.JPG

IMG_6530.JPG

I cut off cable from bluetooth module and soldered cable with USB to Sata adaptor.

IMG_6541.JPG

But bluetooth module has 3.3 V only and I took 5 V from motherboard.

IMG_6585.jpg

The bluetooth cable has the same color of wires like a USB to Sata adaptor.

IMG_6545.JPG

IMG_6547.JPG

IMG_6549.JPG

A first time I used the HDD Samsung 9.5 mm thickness but it was very difficult to set into laptop and I was afraid to broke something. I bought HDD 2 Tb Seagate Mobile ST2000LM007 7 mm thickness. 
 

  • Thumbs Up 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

invait53 this looks really interesting, so you connect SSD to Slimline-SATA and HDD to Bluetooth port, right? To be honest, I really don't get it how you connect SATA to that bluetooth thingie :))

 

Btw. it was good to know that you can get +5V from the Mobo in this way, I could use that for my extra cooler instead of occupying USB ports. How did you know that there is +5V at that exact spot? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/30/2017 at 1:05 PM, viasat said:

You can buy any version,with or without bluetooth.The version with bluetooth will not show the bluetooth part in device manager,because the mini pcie slot have not pins connected.

So you are safe with any version,wlan part will work anyway.

Cheers

 

Could you please tell me if this one will fit? After my research on this thread people say yes. However on description of that ebay product they say it will not work on HP:

BIOS: Standard (Fit all brand laptop except IBM/HP/Lenovo/ Samsung)
Note: only works on Dell, Toshiba, Acer, Sony, Samsung and Asus laptops equipped with a PCI-Express Half-Mini Card slot but NOT on IBM/Lenovo/HP Laptops

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@ Tech Inferno Fan:

 

Hi,

inspired by your great site I bought an hp-2570p on eBay and hackintoshed it to MacOSX 10.11.6 El-Capitan.

I created a thread at tonymacx86 that describes a few facts – then famous "RehabMan" didn't like and mocked my signature so I quit at tonymacx86 ...

 

If you want to you are welcome to add a line in your HP-2570p guide, stating "my El Capitan success".

If further on you think there is a demand I'd also post a more detailed description of kexts used and items selected in clover's config.plist, for others who'd like to hackintosh their 2570ps - or even post the (zipped) contents of my EFI/Clover folder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

 

It's good to see this thread still alive and kicking! What's more, some passionate people are still looking for more mods, upgrades and improvements! 

 

4 years later, my machine is still my main workhorse, no regrets, no failures!

 

Would like to chime in with regards to cooling mods. 

 

@Batyanko and Shikyo, - good job guys! Few years ago I did some modding of my own, then reached out to a couple thermal engineers for insights. Potentially, we could tame a 3x40QM by adding another pipe to the heatsink. The fan is pretty strong at max RPM and wouldn't be a major bottleneck in this case. Two pipes wouldn't double the termal dissipation envelope, of course, but we would gain about 10-15W IF we can successfully get it out of the system. The radiator/grills is the main issue here. Which can be somewhat mitigated by adding layers of PGS - Pyrolytic Graphite Sheet, It can also be slapped on the pipes and heatsink. Pipes can be ordered from enertron and PGS from digikey.

We can also slightly improve the air circulation inside the system by drilling small holes in the back plate. I think the cooling can be improved sufficiently to keep a 3x40QM under 85c running at max clocks 24/7. Right now, for reference, my heatsink (single pipe) can only manage about 30-32w with stock fan control and about 35-37w at max RPM. 

 

Game on!

 

  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone!

I bought 2570p and want to do  The fix: enable ASPMs in the ACPI FACP and set L0s L1s in the pci-e configuration

But I cant download  DIY eGPU Setup 1.x due to Error code: 2F173/K.

What can I do? How can I obtain that software?

Can I do ASPMs Fix withot that software?

Thx

 

Never mind. Downloaded from piratebay. thank you

Edited by Geck0
Solved my problem
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While going through second hand listings of this ad in GumTree (Australia) really caught my eye, it was a 2170p with a backlit keyboard and no useless lamp.

 

Is this a rare variant? Is it worth getting?

 

The label on the bezel clearly reads "Elitebook 2170p" on the ad. 

 

[gallery800x600]
[photo=http://i.imgur.com/GBPmcHgh.jpg]Backlit Keyboard 2170p[/photo]
[photo=http://i.imgur.com/TAwea9m.jpg]Backlit Keyboard 2170p[/photo]
[/gallery]

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, JasonTodd said:

While going through second hand listings of this ad in GumTree (Australia) really caught my eye, it was a 2170p...

 

 

Looks like a really compact and powerful machine, and the one on the pic is supposedly the Core-i7 variant.

 

However, it seems much more limited, that is, if you intend to play around with the kind of upgrades mentioned for the 2570p:

The mainboard in 2170p seem to use BGA1023 socket - that is, CPU is soldered to the motherboard. Also there is no DVD device, so there is hardly any place for a second HDD/SDD. Otherwise a pretty awesome machine, especially if you can get it cheap.

Edited by batyanko
removed images from the quote
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I wanted to bring back the PSU/charger topic back a bit :) Have some of you 2570p veterans had experience with a 65W power supply?

The thing is, I switched from 90W to a 65W about a month ago, since the 65W piece weighs some 100+ grams less.

 

So far the charger doesn't get *that* warm even at full load, and I didn't notice any drop in performance (running a Core-i7 3720QM at 3400Mhz, 2x240GB SSDs in RAID-0, Linux Mint).

Am I missing something? Only thing that I am not using a battery at all, is that what makes the whole thing possible?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, batyanko said:

Hey guys,

I wanted to bring back the PSU/charger topic back a bit :) Have some of you 2570p veterans had experience with a 65W power supply?

The thing is, I switched from 90W to a 65W about a month ago, since the 65W piece weighs some 100+ grams less.

 

So far the charger doesn't get *that* warm even at full load, and I didn't notice any drop in performance (running a Core-i7 3720QM at 3400Mhz, 2x240GB SSDs in RAID-0, Linux Mint).

Am I missing something? Only thing that I am not using a battery at all, is that what makes the whole thing possible?

I've been using a 65W PSU since 2014, - no issues so far. I run both Linux and Windows.

Edited by Aikimox
  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HP 2570p ScrollLock and Pause\Break to Home\End keys remap

 

Hello, guys! I owned HP2560p laptop before, and now I am owner of 2570p. Everything is excellent, instead of strange location of Home\End keys (on 2560p they was on Left Arrow \ Right Arrow).


So, I wrote small program to change functionality of FN + Left\Right arrow keys. Program also have native functionality of ScrollLock and Pause\Break keys -- just quick click them twice.

 

List of functional hotkeys: 

  • Scrolllock = Home
  • Ctrl+Scrolllock = Ctrl+Home
  • Shift+Scrolllock = Shift+Home
  • Ctrl+Shift+Scrolllock = Ctrl+Shift+Home
  • Scrolllock DoublePress = Scrolllock
     
  • Pause = End
  • Ctrl+Pause = Ctrl+End
  • Shift+Pause = Shift+End
  • Ctrl+Shift+Pause = Ctrl+Shift+End
  • Pause DoublePress = Pause

 

You can download exe or compile it via ahk manually: Scrolllock and pause To HomeEnd.zip

You need to set it to autorun.

 

2 moderator: Please, add link to this post to subject header, it will be usefull for users.

Edited by LanKing
  • Thumbs Up 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I finally got around to buy a GPU for an egpu setup, a 560ti, but I'm getting the code 12, I thought this GPU wouldn't have had this problem. Do I need to DSDT override or might it be some other problem?

 

Well I did the DSDT override, but now there's an Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller in the Large Memory.

 

Tried with the bcdedit command, didn't work and killed my WiFi.

Tried removing and reinstalling the egpu, didn't work.

Would try remove what is occupying the large memory, but it's just a USB icon, the guide says to not remove those.

My last chance is getting DIY eGPU Setup 1.35?

 

Wait, it is the same USB that is shown here

Should it work then?

 

Saw someonelse here that had a 2570p and a gtx 560ti and code 12, he solved by converting to GPT, I tried the gdpgen utility but my boot partition is gone...

 

Final edit. Had to recover files and format, took the occasion to format GPT, now it works just plug&play.

Edited by Roshindow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how to OC ke RAM?

I read someone from here was able to run at 1866Mhz on his Corsair Vengeance...

I have the same RAM but run at 1600Mhz but on tighter timing...

I forget to mention that im using i7 3630QM 45Watt on my 2570p, BIOS version is F.40...

Edited by ipta_only
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I am planning on picking up a used 2570P as a second portable laptop. The first thing I usually do is a BIOS upgrade and a clean install of the OS. I noticed that HP has periodically released many BIOS updates with the latest being F.65 Rev.A (8 Nov 2016). However this revision comes with the warning "Due to security changes, after this BIOS update is installed, previous versions cannot be reinstalled.". Given this warning I wanted to check if anyone has any comments on going with the latest. Is there any drawbacks like  certain hardware upgrades cannot be done with the latest BIOS. Also any tweaks lost?

 

I searched this topic and couldn't find any information. Any comments would be appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have some newbie questions again, sorry.

 

Just read that the i7-37xxQM CPUs are more power efficient than the i7-36xxQM CPUs. How is that? I have an i7-3612QM with a TDP of 35w. The others have a TDP of 45w, correct? If I can pop in an i7-3740QM with lower power usage (and hopefully lower temps), I'd be tempted to do so.

 

Anyone find a way to reliably adjust the fan speed? I've messed with various Windows and Linux programs, none really work that well. In Windows I've had limited success, but nothing that will use the max fan speed (and after a while it seems to stop working, i.e. goes back to default settings). Linux doesn't even see the fan controller. I'd like to set the fan to run a step or two higher than it currently does.

 

Is there anything remotely comparable to the HP 2570p? I'll need an upgrade eventually, but it seems the closest I can find is a Lenovo W530 which is more expensive, bigger, heavier, and hotter (so, not close at all). Gotta have quad core, at least 16GB if not 32GB max ram, and two hard drives (one could be mSATA).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Josetann said:

...

Just read that the i7-37xxQM CPUs are more power efficient than the i7-36xxQM CPUs. How is that?

...

I would also be interested to know more on that. It is kind of incomprehensible to me how two processors built using pretty much the same technology can have different power efficiency, apart from production quality variations. For example I had a Core-i3 2120T for sale and some guy wanted to use it to *upgrade* a Core-i3 3220, expecting to get better power efficiency out of the "T" model, even compared to the 3220 clocked at the same frequency. I mean, how do you figure that, SandyBridge being more efficient than IvyBridge? :blink: He expected  the "T" model to have some secret ultra-efficient voltage tweaks, but come on...

 

Otherwise I have some Linux turbostat watt readings from my 3720QM for you, maybe you can compare these to yours and consider if it's worth the effort:

First I set the frequency to 2800000 (that's about the maximum quad-core clock of a 3612qm, right?) using

sudo cpufreq-set -r -g powersave -u 2800000 

Then I run the following to get the running frequency and Watt readings,

sudo turbostat -i1 -d

and finally the following to stress the cores:

stress -c 8

At this setting, the actual frequency tends to vary around 2700 (+/- 50) MHz, probably due to missing 2800 MHz step. The reported PkgWatt varies between about 23.70 - 25.50 Watt.

 

Now what was interesting for me to notice: if I run a glmark2 3D benchmark simultaneously, PkgWatt will approach 45 Watt, even with CPU core frequencies limited to 2800. That is, I couldn't really limit the total Watts of the processor *including* the GPU.

I read somewhere that you can limit the GPU frequency using intel pstate settings, which can supposedly limit the whole processor consumption, including the graphics core. However I don't know how to use these :)

 

Finally, please do let us know of you find a way to control fan speeds on Linux. I have tried that on different laptops, absolutely no success so far...

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.