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Thermal Paste Complete: Mandatory. Not an Option. * Don't mind the MX4 LOL that was just left over from something... How about that toothpaste that is rated at 401w/mk...which happens to be the thermal conductivity of copper. Greetings, I will be repasting the P775DM3 very soon and will be posting up the results w/ a lot of pictures for your entertainment. My liquid metal paste of choice will be Grizzly Conductonaut, however, I'll be experimenting with other pastes as well to satisfy any curiosity as to if one can get by with just traditional paste. (Highly doubtful, but I am curious about GC.) Traditional paste wise, I have a feeling that GELid will hold up pretty well. While I'm at it, I'll also be replacing the thermal pads. Depending on how warped the heat sink is, I have pressure paper handy to be able to test the contacts of the die and IHS against the Heat Sink. If needed, I have copper shims standing by of varies sizes from 0.1mm to 0.3mm+ ... Below are the conductivity numbers for the top Liquid Metals and Traditional Paste: (As we know the numbers don't mean everything, however, from all my tests done so far, Grizzly Conductonaut has always topped CLLU by an average of ~3C. Results may vary and it can be the case where it's the other way around. However, the thing here is that with these beasts, every drop in C's count. It could make all the difference.) Liquid Metals: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk Coollaboratory Liquid Pro - 32.6 W/mk Traditional Paste: Gelid GC Extreme: 8.5 W/mk Grizzly Kyronaut: 12.5 W/mk ICD: 4.5 W/mk ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Project 775 Journal: Straight out of the Box: The temps when running OCCT on the CPU reached 99C on all four cores. Even on F1, the CPU temps all maxed out. Yikes right? As for the GPU, when running Unigine Heaven and Fire Strike the Temps were also in the high 80's and 90's. Repasting is a must IMO. 90C's is not okay and there's no justifying that. I know it's such a shame on Clevo's part for poor QC and lack of engineering (as demonstrated by the crap ADDA fans that are used), but it is what it is. If you want something to just work out of the box without any modding, then a DTR is not for you. Simple as that. Yes, it should work within normal operating temps right out of the box, of course, we would all agree. A DTR is for enthusiasts and those who have the willingness to get under the hood. Some of us thrive on this fact, while others don't, but at the same time this doesn't give Clevo an excuse to go cheap on us. Project Delid + Liquid Metal Magic: (9/22/16) The Repaste and Delid are now complete. I've been gathering temp data non stop, along with fine tuning the machine to find where it is the happiest. The temps have been amazing and I'll be posting up a full review shortly. - Stay tuned... Fine Tuning: (9/25/16) It's been a blast fine tuning the beast and I think I've got it to near optimal range. The CPU is a winner in the silicon lottery, thank goodness. I'm holding 4.6GHz @ -200mv Core / -200mv Cache and it's very stable with gaming, running benches, video encoding etc...As for the GPU, it's a working progress. After about 100+ runs...yes really of fine tuning and recording data on a spreadsheet, I think I've found the GPU's sweet spot. It's not a massive overclocker chip, but it's good enough to get a great boost out of it. Then again, my expectations are very high so anything sub par is not good enough. I'll be running more benches tonight and hopefully the tuning will pay off to take the #1 spot int he P775DM3 Class for Fire Strike, Unigine Heaven, Cinebench R15, Time Spy, wPrime (already recorded and sitting at #1 in this class) etc... I'll keep you all posted! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Please post your results using the format below in order to keep things uniform and organized: >>> Before repasting, please run the benches and record your temps for a base. <<< >>> Please BOLD the answers as show below. <<< Application List: (Click below to Download.) 1. HWiNFO64 2. OCCT 3. wPrime 2.10 ==========================copy/paste======================== Machine Specs: FROM: Hansung Computer Notebooks [한성컴퓨터 노트북] EX76S BOSSMONSTER [775DM3] CPU: 6700K GPU: GTX 1080 Display: 4K w/ GSYNC Thermal Paste: Grizzly Conductonaut Delidded: Yes. TGC on IHS->die and IHS->HS Run OCCT for 30 Minutes on Stock Clocks. (Before Repaste) CPU Max Temp (Stock Fan Profile): 99C CPU Max Temp (F1 Fan Profile): 99C CPU Under Volt: -225mv Core / -225mv Cache Run OCCT for 30 Minutes on Stock Clocks. (After Repaste) CPU Max Temp (Stock Fan Profile): 67C CPU Max Temp (F1 Fan Profile): 57C CPU Under Volt: -225mv Core / -225mv Cache Run Unigine Heaven -> Fully Maxed @ 1920x1080, Back to Back to Back. (Before Repaste) First Run GPU Temp: 91C Second Run GPU Temp: DNF Third Run GPU Temp: DNF Run Unigine Heaven -> Fully Maxed @ 1920x1080, Back to Back to Back. (After Repaste) First Run GPU Temp: 69C Second Run GPU Temp: 72C Third Run GPU Temp: 75C =========================bottom============================ OCCT for 30 Minutes: Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172) Temperature Record to Date: . . . . . . .
• Why should I repaste my Notebook? I think that picture says more than any words can say. There is to much thermal paste on the thermal surfaces. To get the best temperatures as possible, you need a good-pasted system. • What do I need? - time - a bit ''sleight of hand'' - screwdriver - something to remove the thermal paste (I used ''ArctiClean 1 & 2'', for thermal material removing and thermal surface purifing, alcohol should also work) - a lint-free cloth - a good thermal paste (IC Diamond or Arctic MX-4, i used the one from Arctic) - good thermal pads (with at least 6 W/mK thermal conductivity is nice) • How to do You have to remove the following hardware of the Y580 for repasting: • Battery pack • Hard disk drive(HDD) • Optical drive • Keyboard • Keyboard bezel • System board ... You have to remove these screws: Be really careful with removing the keyboard. Do it very slowly and smooth and nothing will broke This is how the Y580 looks like without the keyboard: The same applies to the keyboard bezel. Remove it slowly and smooth, be careful The Y580 after removing the keyboard bezel: Remove the two screws and you can take out the motherboard This is the motherboard with the fan and the two heatsinks for the CPU and the GPU • The repasting - remove all thermal pads - remove the thermal paste - clean all components until they ''shine'' like that: - after the cleaning replace at first the thermal pads at the back of the GPU (backside of the motherboard) like me: - take the new thermal paste and reapply the paste to the core of the 660m and to the CPU - place the thermal pads to the parts that I marked, there were the pads placed from factory: • The result For the testing i modified the vBIOS of the 660m. I rised the core-clock to 1,2 GHz and the memory-clock to 2800 MHz. I also modified the voltage. No overvolt, but i modified it that the voltage stays always at 1,1 V. The GTX 660m stays steady at the 1,1 V and it's maximum clocks of about 1200/2800 MHz. And for the CPU (i7-3630QM) i always use ''ThrottleStop 5.00'' to get the maximum performance and steady 3,2 GHz on all cores. -> My system is throttle-free thats why it can become really hot • The temperature of the 660m goes now to a maximum of 70 degrees celcius. Before the repasting the absolute maximum temperature for the gpu was 87°C high. (with my overclock) • The temperature of the processor, the i7-3630QM, maxes out at 78°C. Before the repasting the 3630QM maxed out at 98°C with throttlestop set at 32 multiplier, 100% clock modulation, 100% chipset clock mod and BD PROCHOT turned off. All in all, the time you have to spend on reapplying the thermal paste is definitely worth it. Lower temperatures means more stable overclocks for technique-enthusiast's or higher life-time of the laptop for the ''normal'' PC-user.
I did not know exactly where to put this thread but i think is a good idea to discuss and share something about the thermal paste. I have read enough of this topic, and the best known brands are: IC Diamond Arctic Cooling MX-2 / MX-4 Arctic Silver 5 Tuniq TX 2 / TX 4 Extreme COOLER MASTER IceFusion I found a new one (at least i did not know) that promises to be better than the others, called GC-Extreme Solutions GELID, here are the link to a review: GELID Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound Review - Page 1/5 | techPowerUp. $13 on Newegg Also found several videos on YouTube explaining the methods of applying thermal paste, and i want to share with you a couple of them: Also found some pictures here that show (basically) how to apply the thermal paste on the AW M11x, i think internally is quite similar to M14x so, if any of you know a method or have any pictures/videos/reviews that you can share i'll be more than interested in seeing them and if they are of the M14x that would be better! greetings!
HP HDX 18/ Intel Core 2 Duo Q9000 @2ghz/ Nvidia GT130M /Blu-ray Rom CD/DVD-RW/ 500gb 7.2K RPM *Feel free to make fun of my second paste job, first re-pasting job ever. (I Know that was a horrible smear of paste) There was definitely 20-30 degree F drop in temperature under heavy usage and greater during idle. This is my brothers system I cleaned out. Imageshack Album Part 1 http://imageshack.us/g/163/201106230237.jpg/ Imageshack Album Part 2 http://imageshack.us/g/88/201106230243.jpg/