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Found 27 results

  1. Hi everyone, I have an unusual request. I have an i7-3940xm in my M17xr4 and it's difficult to keep cool. I have already done the m14x fan mod and I'm using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal compound... it's just not enough. The CPU is constantly being throttled (my bios settings in a11 unlocked are set to throttle it 85 C) when under load, and it will sometimes see temperatures in the mid to high 90s. The maximum operating temperature is rated at 105C, and I have a thermal shutdown set in bios for 100C, which it hasn't yet reached (but it gets scary close). Even when throttled, it's still an upgrade and runs better then the stock 3630qm, but I don't wan't it to throttle all of the time. I know I could underclock it, but what's the point of having an upgraded CPU if you're just going to downclock it to similar specs as the original (baring cache, of course). At idle, by the way, it jumps around mid 50s to high 60s. Anyway, to keep it cool, I want to try using a peltier cooler. They're thermoelectric ceramic devices of which one side gets hot and the other gets cold when an electric current goes through them, for those who didn't already know. I figure I can sandwich it between my cpu and the heatsink and try to help keep the cpu's temps a little more reasonable. I have one of a workable size which can withstand temps of up to 135C, and I've done the math with it's specs so that it hopefully knocks 25ish degrees off while at full load and not overheat the peltier doing so. This leads me to my question/request; I need to know if anyone would know a place on the motherboard which supplies voltage when the laptop is running, but not when it's off, whether or not the charger/battery is connected? I have found a few good sources on the MB which can withstand the drain, but they're always hot, even when the laptop is off. I have a multimeter and have been probing, but I don't want to disassemble half the laptop and attempt running it in pieces to verify a good source. If no one knows off hand or has any idea, does anyone know of any schematics or files which exist which contain voltage information of various contacts on the m17x r4 motherboard? I know this is a strange request and most will not be able to assist, but before taking it all the way apart to probe around I thought I would at least ask. I'll make a write-up on how it's done and how well it works if it's successful, as well as a controller circuit if necessary using a teensy 2.0 or something.
  2. Hi, I recently bought the new Toshiba RC100 m.2 2242 NVMe SSD for my Lenovo Y510p which has an m.2 port in it. After installation the SSD wasn't showing up in my BIOS and also not on my OS Win 10 disk management. So I did a bit of research and installed mod BIOS for my Y510p by following the steps in the link: ( https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/3546-lenovo-y410p-y510p-unlocked-bios-wlan-whitelist-mod-vbios-mod/ ) There are a lot more options in the BIOS menu now. Even after doing the mod it's not showing up. The SSD works on my friend's "new 2017 dell gaming laptop" which has m.2 ssd support in it. I don't know what exactly to configure my BIOS to make it work. I've just done some hit-and-trial configs which have eventually failed. If someone can help solve it Pleasee!! P.S. : I can share all the available options available in the BIOS if required.
  3. Hi, I have an XMG u705 with the an í7 4790k, a Geforce GTX 980M 8GB, G-Sync Monitor, 32GB DDR3 RAM, etc. and I am damn annoyed by both the Mainboard Bios and Vbios, because both are the cause for a ton of driver issues under Windows 10. Also I can't use my lately bought Samsung 970 Evo, even though technically there should be nothing preventing it. Heck I was even able to install Windows 10 on it, because the Windows 10 installer detected it, just not the Bios which is logically why I cannot boot from it. -.- So in search of a solution, I searched the web and found out that there are several mods for both bios made by devs like Prema. Unfortunately some Bios mods I found are heavily outdated, unfinished, ... or not anywhere secure and I couldn't find any location where I could download Prema's Mods for this device, especially not on his Site (just a Subscribe banner there) or his older Wordpress site (errors). There is also nothing here under Downloads/Clevo/P77xZM. I would be really thankfull if someone could help me.
  4. First I want to thank the community, who have inspired me to do this project. I will give you guys the chance to follow me on this journey. I hope you will all help me come up with ideas, techniques and parts that could become handy. This modding may be possible to convert to allot of laptops. Let's begin! Here is the measurement of the went hole. 77mm X 16mm I have 2 ideas for what can be done.
  5. m18xR1 Modded Bios.rar

    Version A05-v2.1

    29 downloads

    Hey Everyone, I am attaching a COUPLE of BIOS's to be flashed on the m18xR1 - This one is based off of SVL7's unlocked bios. I've updated SEVERAL items on it. **WARNING: PLEASE NOTE THAT YOUR INTEL ME(Intel Management Engine) MUST BE THE ORIGINAL. If' you've updated, please make sure you downgrade back to stock Intel ME! Bios Updates: 1) UNLOCKED BIOS 2) Intel RST v13.5.0 (Understand that this MIGHT NOT work with RAID. It should, but some people had trouble - you can downgrade to the v12 that I've poasted it you have any trouble!) 3) CPU Micro Code has been updated 4) NIC Firmware 5) Video Bios (On-Board) 6) M.2 Support (Through an adapter - but adapter will be recognized) 7) there are SEVERAL other updates but I just can't remember them all, lOl! (Sorry) Version A05-v2.0 is probably better as it is the most stable. I'd SERIOUSLY suggest using that version. IF you want to use this, just understand it MIGHT cause you trouble with RAID... (It worked for some, and didn't work for others) Enjoy!!! Swick (On a side note - if ANYONE is willing, I MIGHT know how to get legacy to work on 800m+ video cards. But I need GOOD testers that know how to recovery flash and POTENTIALLY use SPI programmers in case of bad flash)! PM me if interested)

    Free

  6. I just bought this laptop and im using it for gaming, 1366x768 is its default resolution and i just think it does pretty well! Model specs:: Acer Aspire F15 F5-573g-59aj Processor: Core i5 6200u 2.3ghz with turbo boost to 2.8ghz Nvidia Geforce 940mx Gddr5 2gb dedicated vram 8gb ddr4 kingston Intel 520 graphics USB 3.1 The cpuid link is here: http://valid.x86.fr/hh1ql9 My basic questions are: 1) Why the hell the bios is so useless? how do i activate the advanced tab menu? there are no parameters to replace to adjust, only boot options and it sucks =( ( Can anyone please unlock it?) 2) where do i find a new vbios for 940mx Gddr5 ? and how to i flash it? is there an special tool like on desktops? im very used on overclocking and bios modding desktops but this is my first laptop and i want to start with it! 3) i usually use ubu (unified bios updater) to update bios modules from my desktop uefi bios including micro code...is it possible with notebooks? Thanks alot
  7. Need Help Flashing Second GPU

    Hey guys just bought a Lenovo Y510P about 2 weeks ago and I still haven't been able to enjoy it without getting a fire extinguisher ready So I have been reading about its faults and what I can do to help ease them. So far it's been a education. I have the 3.05 mod bios, spring mod, new thermal pads, paste and cut holes for the fans. The thing I am trying to figure out is I can see if gpu-z that one of my GPUS have the [MODDED] next where is says the bios version. Can't distinguish weather its the built in GPU or ultra bay. My money is on the one thats built in. So with that said (might get corrected) but lets say all thats left is to flash and mod the bios on the ultra bay gpu. When I try to save my bios in GPU-Z I get an error with some research its a mobile gpu and thus wont save my bios. I am a little confused on the instructions on how to flash that gpu's bios and what steps I need to take in order to under-volt them. I am able to under-volt one of them assuming its the one that says modded next to it. I am a complete noob when it comes to this stuff but charting into unknown territory is well...lets just say challenging. If someone can please give me a detailed guide on what do to I would really appreciate it. Thanks. Joe.
  8. Hello everyone! I'm new here. I recently bought a GE62 6QF and I want to play a bit with it. I always had a passion for hardware and Overclocking, but I never tried overclocking a laptop! I started some reading here and there about OC best practices for laptops and for this one in particular. The dGPU in this laptop is a Gtx 970m 3gb, with a stock vbios version 84.04.91.00.0E. By default, as probably everyone of you know, the Core overclock is limited to +135mhz, and the memory to +1000mhz. At the moment I reached a stable situation with +135/+496, but the temperature never goes over 65°C with maximum fan speed. What I would like to do is to push a bit further these values. I saw some interesting vbios for similar gpus uploaded here, but unfortunately i cannot download them yet, so I would like to start a discussion about vbios modification. I downloaded MaxwellBiosTweaker and i would like to know if someone have some suggestions. What i want to do first is to set the default clock to 1059MHz and Memory to 1501MHz since the gpu is very stable with this setting. Second i want to remove the core clock limit of +135mhz. Probably also the voltage must be increased a bit. Here you can see my current settings Do you think I can just apply these values in MaxwellBiosTweaker like in the following screen? Since now is working without any voltage change I modified only the clocks as you can see from the screenshot Attached you can also find the original vbios file. Suggestions? Thanks vbios.rom
  9. Hey guys i need help to unlock the +135mhz limitation of my gtx 850m. Klem can u help me? here my VBIOS: https://mega.nz/#!J8cw0aLS!bLGu7R294W7wU52RDgTCvJIeBBF9jxrr066y7JpSg3o PLS POST IN A LINK LIKE MEGA.NZ BECOUSE I DON'T HAVE THE 5 POST! THX
  10. So here is my current setup: Alienware M17X R4 Bios A12 GPU: Nvidia 660M CPU: Intel i7 3630QM HHD - Samsung 840 EVO SSD 250GB and stock Toshiba 500GB Ram - cardboard 8gb OS- Windows 7 I did get the upgraded power supply BTW So I just ordered a 980m and wanted to get some tips on how to install this bad boy. I know I probally have to flash my bios and install some modified drivers but I have no Idea where to start. I am kind of a noob with this. The physical install seems easy I just dont know about the software side. If someone could please help me out on how to install the bios and drivers I would greatly appreciate it.
  11. Hello all, I just wonder if someone could take a look at a bios to know if it's possible to unlock it? a Dell Alienware Area51 R2 model : file name: Alienware_Area_51_R2_A08.exe Link here Thanks a lot Pas
  12. Hey Everyone, I'm looking for some testers to see if we can get LEGACY SUPPORT for the m17xR4. Furthermore, I've also done MANY updates on this bios, too... I updated RAID (EFI & LEGACY) to v12.9.0.2006 (This may need to be downgraded as the chipset you have may NOT support this raid version, but this is the latest version that will work IF youre running RAID. It also supports TRIM in RAID0. If you are not running raid, I can update to v13 if you want, but we need to test one at a time!) Updated GOP Drivers & GOP Policy Updated vbios from 2098 to 2171 Updated Microcode for all cpu's Added M.2 Support Added NvMe support Updated Atheros Lan Firmware & PXE Boot Firmware Updated To Possibly Give Legacy Support, BUT....... I NEED TESTERS!!! Please contact me if you want to try. Understand, HOWEVER, that am NOT responsible for ANYTHING that happens to your system if it goes wrong. (Just a SMALL disclaimer, heh) Thanks, Swick
  13. [HARDWARE MOD] P157SM cooling overhaul

    Over the last month or so, I've been planning on overhauling my (slightly dated) P157SM to give it better cooling, and possibly higher performance. There were a number of sources I used for inspiration, and I'll attempt to document all of them later on, but first, pictures! This is the first modification I made. I increased the opening of the CPU fan to allow more air to go into the fan. As I recall, it helped with idle temperatures but I don't remember by how much. This picture shows how much I increased the opening by, I didn't do just that bit and stop Next up, I increased the width of the intakes directly over the GPU and CPU to reduce ambient heat buildup in those areas. I ultimately decided that increasing the width was not the best route to go (and it was quite ugly) so I decided to simply remove the vents I used some diamond mesh to cover those areas, but I don't have any pictures of that at the moment. Next I used some HVAC tape to direct the air flow from the CPU fan into the heatsink and not out the tiny gaps in the area. Then I swapped out the heatsinks (originally I ordered this from XoticPC and went with their copper cooling upgrade (I was young(er)) for some bigger ones. Everything is all nice and snug And finally with the lid back on. With the changes made between cutting the vents, and the last picture, I was able to drop load CPU temps ~5C which I thought was pretty nice. My goal is to also get rid of the vent over the fan, but I haven't found time to do it. I'm also planning on lapping the GPU heatsink, which will, again, take time. I'll post more updates as I make them (and post the benchmarks I've already done). Update: GPU Work: So I have a 780M at the moment (I'm planning on going to a 980M, though I may just wait for the Pascal GPU's to come out) and I decided to lap the heatsink, since I'm planning on overclocking it. Fresh of the block 400 Grit (10 minutes) 600 Grit (10 minutes) 800 Grit (10 minutes) 1000 grit (7 Minutes) 1200 Grit (7 Minutes) 1500 grit (about 25 minutes for this stage) And I thought it looked pretty smooth. One of my references mentioned cutting off the little tabs on the block, since they're mostly there for adding additional pressure (since the plate is usually warped) and I wanted to just lap the area directly over the GPU die (plus I don't really have a good place for grinding copper with my rotary tool). For the paste I used http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/thermal-compound/mastergel-maker/ which I went with based on the favorable review posted at http://www.play3r.net/reviews/cooling/cooler-master-master-gel-maker-nano-thermal-paste-performance/ and the pads are Fujipoly high end (didn't think I'd need to go ultra). I also added some little sinks on to the heatpipes, though they might be suspect (more on that in the results below). And I sealed up a gap in the fan to direct more airflow through the larger fins. I also used from more HVAC tape to try to prevent ambient air from being drawn in to the fans, but this too might be suspect (it might be needed to draw it away, since where else is the heat from all those fins supposed to go?) And the results are... interesting... pre upgrade post upgrade So the initial benchmark had a 5C drop in temperature, but the following results aren't as promising. In fact, the stress test results appears to be higher (I'm speculating that it'd be over 86C by 400 seconds). I'm thinking that either the added heatsinks on the heatpipes are dispersing the heat before it can get to the fins, my lapping job wasn't so great, or I added too much TIM. I may try the washer trick from the p150 cooling threat mentioned below, but I'm spent on energy for this weekend. June 3rd update I finally got back around to working on my clevo some more and after a third re-pasting my temps are down (taking into account that today is hotter than when I first tested) I suspect that my older paste jobs were either too thick, or I bent the heatpipe and kinda threw the plate out of alignment. Inspiration: Modding my clevo in general: http://null-bin.blogspot.com/2015/04/extensive-clevo-p150sm-cooling-and.html Sealing up the gaps in the fins: Additional cooling ideas:
  14. NVFLASH_TOOLKIT_x64_PM

    Version v1

    207 downloads

    Prema Mod™ NVFLASH TOOLKIT One-click solution to backup & flash your NVIDIA GPUs with mod & stock versions in Windows! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Password for all files: premamod.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- All my mods are DONATIONWARE and for your personal use only! THX & ENJOY!

    Free

  15. Hi there! I - by chance - got hold of an Gigabyte P34w V4. As this small notebook is really getting hot, I am looking for a vBios modification with the goal to undervolt the 970m. Thank you and best regards phila
  16. Hi Prema, here you can download the BIOS files for p65_p67sa motherboard. Let me know if you can mod it and how I can help you. EC http://repo.palkeo.com/clevo-mirror/P6xxSA/E0501.zip Bios http://repo.palkeo.com/clevo-mirror/P6xxSA/B0501.zip Thanks in advance!
  17. Lenovo Y400/Y500 fan mod.

    My Y400 ran into some trouble a while back and still isn't fixed but I won't tell what happened to it here as I will post it on a new thread. Simply put, I had to mod the laptop fan so that it would run at 100% speed no matter what. It made the fan run louder but made my temps considerably lower. This is a post to show you how I did the mod. 1. Open up the bottom cover of your Y400 or Y500 2. Locate the cables for the fan. 3. There should be four cables there. One red, one black, one yellow and one brown. 4. Cut the brown wire. The brown wire is for the motherboard to control the fan speed. Once you cut it your laptop fan will run as fast as the dust cleaning process lets it in lenovo's energy management tool. This is the fan's normal speed. It was made to run slower by lenovo to make less noise. I got the image above from this thread: http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/2773-y500-disassembled-pictures.html It shows roughly where the cables should be for the Y400 and Y500.
  18. Clevo W2xxHNx/W2xxHPx series Modded & Stock BIOS Note: This thread is no longer updated. You can find the latest info HERE. Notice: Make sure you have downloaded the correct Mod for your specific model and that the laptop's or a UPS battery backup is present during the update process. Disclaimer: I do not hold any responsibility for any problems that may occur by using the mods in a wrong way. Remember that you flash these at your own risk. I have personally tested the W25xHNx mod. Since the laptops mentioned here are of the same series and thus almost identical, you shouldn't face any problems with the rest of them. The same changes were made to all models after ensuring that their stock counterparts are identical to the tested W25xHNx laptop. Note: All mods contain both the Modded and Stock BIOS image files so that you can go back in case you want to. Use Mod.bat or Stock.bat at a DOS environment respectively. Check the Flashing Guide below for detailed instructions. W2xxHNx/W2xxHPx Mod Changelog: v1.2 Intel Sandy Bridge 206A7 CPU microcode 29 --> 2D v1.1 Intel Management Engine 1.5MB firmware 7.1.60.1193 --> 7.1.80.1214 Intel HD Graphics 3000 vBios 2170 --> 2171 Updated flashers to AFUDOS v3.07.01 and FWUpdate v7.1.50.1166 v1.0 Intel Management Engine 1.5MB firmware 7.0.4.1197 --> 7.1.60.1193 Intel HD Graphics 3000 vBios 2117 --> 2170 JMicron JMC25x Gigabit Ethernet Controller 1.0.9.0 --> 1.0.10.0 Intel Sandy Bridge 206A7 CPU microcode 12 --> 29 Removed redundant Intel Sandy Bridge 206A7 CPU microcode 14 Added support for Intel Core i7-2820QM ES/QS processor (W25xHPW) Fixed grammar mistake at Resuming from Hibernation image Fixed spelling mistakes at Advanced tab (Alart --> Alarm) Merged BIOS & EC firmware into a single image file Correct BIOS version & date reported in Windows Clevo W25xHNx series BIOS v1.01.07 & EC v1.00.06 [Mod v1.2] Supported Models (*): W251HNQ, W251HNQ-C, W255HN, W253HNQ1, W253HNQ, W258HNQ etc... Clevo W25xHPx series BIOS v1.01.07 & EC v1.00.08 [Mod v1.2] Supported Models (*): W251HPQ, W251HPQ-C, W255HP, W253HPQ1, W253HPQ, W258HPQ etc... Clevo W27xHNx series BIOS v1.01.05 & EC v1.00.04 [Mod v1.2] Supported Models (*): W270HNQ etc... Clevo W27xHPx series BIOS v1.01.05 & EC v1.00.05 [Mod v1.2] Supported Models (*): W270HPQ etc... Clevo W25xHPW series BIOS v1.01.05 & EC v1.00.04 [Mod v1.2] Supported Models (*): W251HPW, W255HPW, W258HPW, W253HPW1, W253HPW etc... Flashing Guide (Text & Video): 1. Create a bootable MSDOS/FreeDOS USB flash-drive using Rufus 2. Copy all files relevant to your model at the USB flash-drive's root directory 3. Plug the USB flash drive at your laptop's USB 2.0 port 4. Restart and press F2 to enter BIOS to make sure that you do not have any BIOS or HDD password protection 5. Restart and press F7 to enter the Boot Order menu at which select your USB flash drive 6a. To update your BIOS & EC to the latest modded version, type Mod 6b. To update your BIOS & EC to the latest stock version, type Stock 7. Follow the easy on-screen prompts to finish the update process 8. The first time after the update, the laptop will boot and automatically restart quickly 9. Press F2 to enter BIOS and Load Setup Defaults followed by Save Changes and Reset 10. You have successfully updated your BIOS & EC to the latest modded/stock versions (*) As shown at Clevo Bios Mirror and laptop Service Manuals Special thanks to Lordkag for the help and advice.
  19. HP Split 13 x2 any Mod ideas?

    Hi @all, I have the HP Split 13 x2 (now with 8gig of ram and the i5-4200y). Apart from SSD, RAM, WiFi, is there anything that I could tune/mod/change to make it run faster? For example new coolers, better fan and with that an unlocked BIOS (no unlocked Bios -> no more power possible out of the small i5 ;-) ) Or even better a incredible cheap i7y ^^ Or something I didn't even think of. (What comes to mind is a different dock with more connection options or a new metal backplate) Please leave your comments, even if it is just to get me some ideas, something you already did or things you could help me with. Kind regards, Hermelinmaster
  20. I'm an architecture student going into College and I've been informed by my professors that I need to purchase a Quadro graphics card in order to run the hardware acceleration in the drafting programs we use. To me, this doesn't make any sense; why would I downgrade my already powerful GTX 780ti's (in three way SLI: overkill? Yes, I'm aware. But why the hell not?) for something not nearly as powerful, the Quadro 5000, and spend over $1000 on one graphics card? I've been reading about ways to crack the 660 into working, or at least reading, like a Workstation card, but is there a way to do it on something as recent as the 780ti? I'd still like to be able to retain the gaming capabilities of my PC but also, you know, succeed in college and not spend a fortune on another graphics card when I have 3 perfectly good ones in my machine already?
  21. [Mod] Alienhead color change

    I'm not sure what models this all applies to but: The alienhead on the back of the LCD is always white. It leeches of the LCD backlight and there is not remotely enough space to allow for a RGB system. Well, there might be, but it would be super tight tolerance and not for this particular system. I have some light gel sample thing for stage lighting. These allow an adequate amount of light through while changing the color of said light. One thing I love about this company is the overly cheesy names: Simply Mauvelous, Purplexed, Kablueie, Bluetylicious, Putting Green, Rust Assured, Just Peachy, Peach My Interest, Salmon"illa", Pink Pong, Pinkerbell. I personally used Bodacious Blueberry for this mod. Procedure:: 1. Rip off front plastic bezel. Start in an upper corner and work your way around. Pretty easy (Rider is watching you) 2. Pick your color samples: 3. I picked Bodacious Blueberry. Suigintou seems to like it as well. 4. Unscrew the LCD and make sure to pull away your webcam cable (it's stuck to the back of the LCD). Lay it down on your keyboard. You can test your colors now: Assortment of colors (Mauvelous, Neon Yellow, Diva Red, Bodacious Blueberry, Putting Green) 5. Determine how big to cut, I found out after my first cut, it's easier to just cram the light gel behind the silver reflective stuff, a dull xacto blade helps here: 6. Cut (this is too large to install in a easy manner, it ends up being about half this size - only need to stretch in the opening in one dimension either vertically too tall or horizontally too tall.): 7. Cram it in. The gel sticks a few mm over the top and bottom and is near flush on the left and right sides (in relation to the silver cut out): 8. Use a flashlight to test: 9. Slap it back together: 10. Enjoy. --- Pretty simple and quick mod. I did this spur of the moment while checking the pins on the LVDS cable to see if I could put a 1080p panel in here. It's a 40-pin 2ch 6bit LVDS connection. All 1080p panels that can fit in the m14x are 13.1" or smaller and 30pin LVDS. So a no go there.
  22. [HARDWARE MOD] P370SM Wrap Film Mod

    Hi guys! I just wanted to share my personal experience with the adhesive film. The equipment required is very simple: - Adhesive film (bought on ebay) - Hair dryer - Cutter - Felt wrapping squeege (bought on ebay) - So much patience (this unfortunately can not be bought anywhere ) The procedure is really simple and intuitive, the only difficulty is it does not create bubbles under the film, and be careful to trim the edges and corners. The end result is... Byee
  23. This modification involves going a step further than a straight ID chip swap between the 240W and the 330W. The reason I chose this method was, I did not want to perform the mod again in the rare case that the 330W died and I had to get a new one. In order to complete this mod, you will require the following items. 1. Dell 330W PSU (This PSU was built for the M18X and X51 product lines). Part Numbers: Y90RR / 5X3NX / F0K0N / XM3C3 / 331-2429 2. Dell 240W PSU (Either a Flextronix or Delta). Part numbers: PA-9E / J938H / Y044M / U896K / J211H / Y044M 3. Dell or HP standalone PSU cable/Connector. I used this as I wanted a right angle connector. 4. M17x/M18X Power Jack. I used this one. 5. Small PCB designed for a SOT-23 packaged chip. (If using the Flextronics 240W PSU). This seems like an ideal candidate. 6. Small housing (Optional depending on whether you would like to mod the ferrite choke housing) PSU DISASSEMBLY First we begin with the disassembly of the 240W PSU to retrieve the ID chip for our adapter. Since I had the Flextronics version some of these steps might not be the same for the Delta PSU. We start by lifting up the rubber feet on the bottom of the 240W using your nail or a flat tool. Underneath each rubber foot you will find a screw which you can go ahead and unscrew. One of the screws will be a tamper-resistant Torx T10 type, the difference to a normal Torx T10 being a small pin the centre so you would have to use a Torx screwdriver with a hole in the center. TIP: If you do not have this tamper-resistant screwdriver you can use a normal Torx T10 screwdriver but you will have to hammer down the pin at the centre of the screw slightly in order to get the normal T10 screwdriver to grip. Once you have removed all screws you will have to pry open the casing. I stuck a thin knife between the power plug and the casing to gently pry it open. The top half and bottom half of the casing are held together by interlocking clips. Twist the case a bit to get them to unclip. Then remove the PSU from the case. You will then be presented with the first metal layer which is held on by tape. Cut the tape and slide out the first metal layer. You will then see the second metal layer which is held in place by 3 points soldered onto the PSU PCB. It is indicated in the picture below. Desolder all 3 points and remove the second metal layer. The last layer is black and seems to be a type of flexible hard plastic. It will be stuck in place by white thermal stuff on the PCB, simply lift it and peel it away. Depending on whether you have a Flextronics or Delta PSU your ID chip will look different. Desolder this chip and keep it in a safe place (If you lose it, you have to buy a new 240W PSU). On the Flextronix PSU the chip is also stuck in place apart from being soldered on, so you have to work quickly heating the solder and pushing the chip away with a bit of force. To reassemble the PSU reverse the above steps. You can still use this PSU connected to the adapter with your M17X so it won't be collecting dust. THE ADAPTER MOD You will have to decide on whether you want to mod the ferrite choke housing into your enclosure or use a dedicated enclosure (small as possible as this circuit is tiny). If you are using a dedicated enclosure jump straight to the labelled wire photo to continue. If you would like to mod the ferrite choke housing continue reading. I did not take sufficient pictures during this portion as I was unsure if the ferrite choke housing would work. The rubber around the ferrite choke and the connector that I purchased was soft and very flexible which made it easy to work with. I used a knife and pressed against the rubber of the ferrite choke housing for a clean cut so that I could glue it back together. I cut off one end and then length ways along either seam of the housing making sure to leave a bit of extra cable. Here is a picture of what we’re trying to achieve with the cutting. You will then see the ferrite choke which you can crack with a hammer. Remove the pieces (be careful as they will be very sharp). Then the cut off the cable strain relief that's covering the cable with small wire snips. You will then see the cable which you can strip to positive, negative and the ID line. You will then need to connect those wires to the power jack. The two pins at the top are negative. The two pins at the back forming the shape of a U are positive and the pin at the back in the centre is the ID line. Solder the positive wire to positive pin and negative wire to negative pins as shown in the image below. The negative wire can be soldered to the negative pins and simultaneously joining the ID pin on the jack. The reason behind joining the ID pin to the negative pins on the jack is because we need to ground the ID line coming from the 330W in order for it to operate beyond its artificial 240W limit. Now all that’s left to do is connect the ID chip. If you have the Flextronics PSU the ID chip will be in a SOT-23 package and the Delta ID chip will be in a TO-92 package. The Flextronics SOT-23 package is difficult to work with and should be first soldered to a bit of PCB that had a SOT-23 package so that you do not break the legs off. I initially soldered the wires directly to the legs and moving it about in my "enclosure" to find the best spot to place it was too much stress on the chips tiny legs and they broke off... yes, all of them. Luckily I could still see a tiny bit of metal from each of the legs. I managed to salvage it by soldering it to a piece of PCB that I jacked from a broken mouse which had SOT-23 connections. The blue ID wire coming from the cable needs to be soldered to the data leg of the ID chip. Connect the remaining two pins from the ID Chip together and then to the negative connection on the PSU jack. Dont judge my pathetic soldering skills! Place your ID chip into the enclosure and test the adapter to make sure all your connections have proper contact. If it’s working properly you can close it up. I considered flooding the enclosure with silicone to secure the ID chip and its connections but I did not, as I thought it would be more work if one of the connections broke and I had to open it up again. You can do it if you like. I used a drill to make the hole at the centre of the disc large enough for the 330W connector tip fit through. I then stuck the enclosure back together using superglue along the sides and then attaching the disc. Add a bit of glue to the disc/jack so that the disc and jack are stuck together as well. This is so that the jack does not move when plugging the PSU connector tip in. THE COMPLETED MOD Pros/Cons over the ID Chip swap Mod Pros - Allows you to use any PSU irrespective of wattage as long as the connector tip is compatible with the power jack. - If the 330W PSU dies all you have to do is plug a new one in. No need to perform the mod on a new 330W. - No need to open up the 330W at all. - Your ID chip donor 240W PSU can still be used with your M17X by attaching this adapter. Cons - Allows you to use any PSU irrespective of wattage as long as the connector tip is compatible with the power jack (Could be dangerous with low wattage PSU's). - A lot more work compared to swapping the chips. Notes: I also had to trim a bit of rubber at the right angle connector for the cable I used as it’s a bit of a tight fit if you don't. The rubber around the connector did get a warm at the right angle after testing but it's being blasted by the heat of the CPU fan continuously so I don't think it’s the connector itself that's causing it. These cables are very short and should be able to handle the power easily. Since there are two positive terminals you will have to either split the positive wire coming from the PSU connector to each pin or join both pins (bend one pin over to the other and solder them together making sure to place an insulator to cover the ID pin) and solder the positive wire to a single point. Also worth noting is that this adapter mimics the original 240W adapter perfectly. So if you experienced the "plugged in, not charging" issue when connected this adapter will not resolve it (I still have to pop the battery and clip it back in to resolve). Credits: @imsolidstate, without his in-depth investigation this would have not been possible. His website detailing his investigation and the ID chip transplant can be found here and the subsequent update here. DISCLAIMER: Perform this modification at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused by technical error, user inexperience or stupidity.
  24. CPU Fan Upgrade Procedure for M17x R3/R4 (2.0CFM->10.4CFM!)<o:p></o:p> My original CPU fan was adequate (not great but adequate) fora 3740qm CPU @ 3.7GHz but when I upgraded to a 3920xm CPU and overclocked to4.1GHz x 4 cores, I needed more cooling - a lot more. Running a 60-second CPU stress test on all four cores in Intel XTU, with a 65watt CPU TDP programmed, and a core voltage of 1.351v, the difference is asfollows: · With original fan, system runs @ 4.1GHz for ~28 seconds before dropping to3.5-3.7GHz because of heat. On longerstress tests, it DOES NOT recover from this reduced speed state becausecooling is not adequate. Core Max: 92-95Celsius. · With this fan mod, system runs @ 4.1GHz for ~55 seconds before dropping to 3.7GHzbecause of heat. On longer stress tests,it DOES recover from this reducedspeed state and spikes of ~4GHz are seen for the remaining duration of thetest. Core Max: 92 Celsius every time. <o:p> </o:p> So here are the stepswith some pictures: 1. Procure an M14x R2 fan. It MUST be an R2 fan!! The fan blade design is clearly different so usemy picture as a reference. There are many eBay sellers, for example, selling the R1 fan as an "M14x series fan," implying that bothrevisions use the same fan - which is not true. The R1's fan has a 2CFM sticker rating while the R2's has 10.4! The markings to search for are: XN0G5 and/or DC28000AJF0. I got mine here: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Cooling-Fan-for-Dell-Alienware-M14x-XN0G5/207462_647373968.html Note: Do not just swap the M14x's fan blade into your existing M17x fanshroud. I tried that first and it doesnot increase airflow. You need the newblade AND the new shroud for this to be effective. 2. Remove your original CPU fan. There are three screws that hold it in. Also disconnect its power jack from themotherboard. While you have access, youmight want to blast that exposed exhaust port with some compressed air to makesure everything is clean. 3. Notice the three mounting brackets that protrudefrom the sides of the fan shroud in the picture from Step 1. You'll need to cut them off so the shroudwill fit. I used a Dremel with agrinding wheel. There's also one smallblack screw in the corner with the yellow sticker. You'll need to remove it and grind down thatprotrusion as well. Save that screw forlater btw. 4. Make spacers/pads to hold the new fan up. The factory pieces will not line up so you'llwant something under the fan for clearance and to allow air intake from theunderside. I used small pieces of arubber material called Dynamat but padded mirror tape would work, as would manylayers of electrical tape placed on top of each other. It doesn't matter what you use - as long asit won't melt - and you'll want it to have a small footprint so it doesn'tblock airflow. I made my pads abouttwice the height of the factory material. Higher pads will allow for greater clearance and more air intake - justbe sure the fan still lines up with the heatsink and the case closes over it. This picture shows the three pads I made, and the fan shroud with its originalmounts ground off. 5. Create a mounting bracket to secure the fanshroud at the point farthest from the exhaust port. You could optionally fabricate mounts to lineup to all three screw threads on the case, but with my sturdy rubber pads andthe tape that will be included on the exhaust side if you buy your fan new, Iwas fine with only one new mount. Note: Leavethat tape covered until the end of Step 7. I used a thin piece of copper but any metal is fine. Bend the metal so it lines up to both the topof the fan shroud and the point above the screw thread on the case. Mark how it sits on the fan shroud and drill twotiny holes (1/16" bit) through the shroud-side of the mount. Now place the mount on the shroud using yourmarkings and VERY CAREFULLY drill further so that you have holes going throughthe plastic as well. Do not push hardand do not hit the fan blade within! Drill a slightly larger hole on the case-side of your mount where itwill line up with the screw thread. Thescrew you saved from Step #3 can be used for one of the shroud-side holes andwill not hit the fan blade within. Ifyou can come up with another similar screw, use it for the second hole. If not, you can take one of the other twofrom the shroud assembly if you want. It's also held together with clips so it won't fall apart. One of the three screws that held in youroriginal fan shroud can be used for the other (case side) of the mount. 6. Thoroughly blow off your new shroud inside andout with compressed air to remove any stray plastic scraps from the machiningprocess. 7. Fit everything up, making sure the fan sitsflush on all the pads you've made. Makesure it lines up with the heatsink and isn't too high or too low into thecase. Adjust pads as necessary. Once you're satisfied, screw in your mount tohold the fan in place. Now lift up thetape on the exhaust side (which should still be covered) and remove thecovering. Carefully fold the sticky partdown onto the copper heatsink pipes to secure that side of the assembly. 8. Plug in the fan's power jack. Again, ignore the connector being a differentcolor. It fits and it works withoutmodification or programming. 9. Close your unit up and enjoy!! So there it is! Let me know how this works out for you guys if you try it - and what you think about the procedure itself. Suggestions/questions are always welcome! * I obviously assume no liability if you break anything doing this. Informational purposes only, etc, etc, * This procedure replaces the M17x's original CPU fan (and fanshroud) with that of the M14x R2, and yields a greatly increased fanoutput. Both fans use the samemotherboard connector (ignore the color difference of the jack) so all that'sneeded here is to procure an M14x R2 fan, modify the mounting system a bit soit fits, and connect it up - and it works like a charm!
  25. First off, i'd like to thank Nando for all his work helping bring eGPUs to the masses. On to the post: The short of it: Where I once had a DVD drive that I barely used, I now have 3 low power USB ports and a convenient eGPU port. I’ve designed a caddy of my own in order to manage the new components. Full photo set: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.193840844073776.17933.193579380766589&type=1 The long of it: This began as a simple 2nd HDD/DVD caddy swap. The more I thought about it however the more the fact that the HDD was physically smaller than the DVD drive, which ultimately meant unused space started to bother me. Incidentally I was also working on getting an eGPU set up but didn’t like the idea of having to take off the 2nd battery and bottom plate off each time I wanted to use the eGPU. The eGPU hardware connects via the mini PCIe slot where the Wi-Fi card is. So I decided to try to permanently embed the eGPU connection alongside a 2nd HDD where the DVD drive used to be. This threw a new wrinkle into the equation, since a permanent eGPU connection would mean disconnecting my wlan permanently. My solution was to go with a USB dongle for my wireless connection. New problem, where to find the USB connection….and where to hide the dongle. The last thing I wanted was to have it sticking out the side of the computer all the time. So the dongle also had to go into the caddy space. As to the USB connection, well there’s a wwan slot I never use right next to the caddy. While most wwan cards are physically a mini PCIe format and connection, they really work via USB. I found a card which breaks out the USB connection to flying leads (mentioned in the parts list below) and planned on using that to get my USB connection for the Wi-Fi dongle. New problem, most wwan mPCIe ports carry USB signal but not power. The port on the SB works like this. So where do I get 5v from? I could run the port power in parallel from one of the USB ports on the right side of the computer, but those make for some long leads and are difficult to run back to the caddy area. The only easily available source of power on the left hand side is the SATA connection itself. And that was my "aha" moment. I tend to use my laptop as a laptop when on the road but when at home it’s really working as a desktop. I’ve got a few USB peripherals and a screen I connect it to, plus the aforementioned eGPU. Ultimately I decided that I wanted more USB ports and a convenient eGPU port on the left side of the machine more than I wanted a 2nd hard drive. So I replaced the hard drive in the mod with a USB hub, with enough power to run the wlan dongle, an Asus Xonar USB soundcard, thumbdrives, peripheral dongles (Logitech universal, and Microsoft keyboard, etc.) It won’t power a HDD in a caddy however. I was also having some trouble fitting the hard drive in the original mod, but that’s because I was afraid of taking a dremel to the bottom case of the laptop (I’ve since worked through my fear, though I like the mod as is.) Things that still need doing: I still need to shave off a 1mm from everything, and I ended up warping the top case with one of my earlier attempts. I’ve revised the design of my caddy so that I can fasten the 3 screws along the face of the DVD drive which I had to forego with the old design. I also have to model this and get it 3d printed so it’s one integral unit. Also, it looks like the new version of the eGPU hardware (PE4L-PM060A) might have the mPCIe card and the adapter directly soldered to the mini hdmi cord, so I’ll have to revise the mod slightly. Even without revising the design, I have to go in there and clean up some cables now that I’ve had it in for a few weeks and know that it works. Things to watch out for: I somehow shorted the speakers on this computer, no idea how I did it but I’ve made my peace with it. Also I killed a couple of usb wifi dongles due to bad solder joints and shorts. (Will update with parts list soon…) Photos: Initial Testing: First stab at a mockup: Progress: End Result: Pic of the three usb ports with the eGpu port. Its the hole at the end, closest to the screen.
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