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Found 49 results

  1. n0br4n

    Laptop beeping when use gpu

    Hello guys, I've a really weird problem. My laptop has started beeping when use nvidia gpu yesterday. I dissambled my laptop and tried to plug out every single hardware and test them one by one. There's 22 beeps and equal interval beetween them. It goes shutdown after that 22 beeps. My laptop is Clevo W650SJ and it uses Nvidia 840M gpu. That problem isn't causing because of windows or installed driver cos i tried to reinstall windows but it started to beeping when w10 installer check devices. Also I've bios password on startup , if i don't type password and hit the enter , it starts beeping after 10-15 sec. Also fan speed goes up to maximum and it doesn't slow down untill i shut it down or shutdown itself. If i use any program or run a game which uses nvidia gpu , it starts beeping but if i close the game on first beeps , beeping is stops. But fan speed still maxiumum until i shutdown to pc. I am looking a way to fix it. I didn't make any changes on my pc before than this problem.
  2. Having pondered over a eGPU build I instead decided to put my GPU inside my 15.6 laptop by extending the laptop base. I have a Dell optiplex 390 where my GTX 750ti LP once lived but as I now spend more time with my laptop on the sofa the Dell optiplex is now a donor for my gaming laptop build. I'm using the Dell motherboard for this build. It has a i5-2400 CPU - 8GB DDR3 RAM - MSI GTX 750ti LP GPU. The Dell PSU is too big for this build so I will be using a Seasonic SS-250SU 250W PSU. The laptop used for this build is a Fujitsu LifeBook AH530 that has a 1366x768 LED screen, this screen will be replaced with a higher resolution 1600x900 screen. The extended base of the laptop is now 6.5 cm. Parts needed to complete the build: Seasonic SS-250SU 250W PSU PCI Express 16x Flexible Extension cable LP156WD1 (TL)(B1) 15.6" LED 1600x900 screen LCD Controller Board Ultra slim keyboard with touchpad Work so far in pictures: Continue reading the full thread here:
  3. TheShortStackTech

    GTX 980m iMac support

    I recently got a 2010 27" iMac for free! Some further research concluded that the MXM slot in the iMac has been proven to work with a GTX 880m, including Mac OS! I used to play with a 7970 ghz edition, but ended up selling it for some more projects. I've been lagging along on a 5870 2gb and thought that with my switch to the free iMac, I might as well update my gpu. Heres the problem I was faced with: the 880m is a little underpowered on stock clocks. So, after even more research I discovered that the 980m was around the same as a 7970 performance wise. I ended up grabbing a deal on an 880m for only 160$, but I did want to share my findings with you guys. *WARNING* ONLY 2009, 2010, AND 2011 IMACS HAVE THE MXM SLOT!!!! IF YOU ARE USING A 2012+ YOU CANNOT UPGRADE YOUR GPU So the 980m used to work all the way up to mac os sierra. It's now high sierra, but the fix is still pretty simple. What you will need: -thermal pads -copper ram heatsinks/ one of the specialized backplates that cools MXM memory modules. -Your graphics card -YOU NEED an imac 2011 gpu heatsink -GOOD thermal paste (Preferably liquid metal if youre comfortable with that) -IMAC 2010 power supply *As far as i know the power supply's between these 3 imac's are interchangeable, but the largest one is the 2010 variant, at the 310 watts, and the others are much lower. *Just from tdp we know that the 980m is 115w and the cpu's on these guys are most commonly 95w, thats allready 200 with out hdd, all the other components etc. -nvidia web drivers READ THE FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY Step 1: You must have all your mac os/ windows partitions set up with bootcamp, and MAKE SURE it boots into Mac OS and wont boot into anything else when you start it up AFTER the upgrade. *Remember nvidia web drivers must be installed before you upgrae Step 2: dremel/ cnc/ remove a couple parts of the VRM section of the imac 2011 heatsink, (You want your card IN HAND so you are able to make sure it fits correctly. step 3: Assemble the gpu assembly step 4: Re assemble the imac, with the new gpu. *This is where is gets slightly harder* step 5: You want to reset your iMac's System Management Controller, otherwise known as SMC. *DO NOT FLASH NVRAM OR PRAM, or you will have to redo the whole process, after you put your old gpu in to fix all the bootcamp problems and such *You can do this by plugging the power cord into your imac, waiting 30 seconds and NOT turning it on, unplug your power cord, wait 30 seconds, then plug it back in. Wait another 30 seconds, then turn it on. (But not before reading the following to be prepared:) step 6: You need to force Mac OS to work with an unsupported card. this is a pretty simple process if you are comfortable with terminal. * I couldn't have found this without this page: https://www.ifixit.com/Story/18646/Successful_iMac_Upgrade_to_GTX_880M " To make a non-apple provided Nvidia graphics card work in macOS Sierra you need to do the following… Start the computer in safe mode by holding shift. Get your BoardID by running this command in terminal echo "<result>$(ioreg -rd1 -c IOPlatformExpertDevice | awk -F'["|"]' '/board-id/{print $4}')</result>" Open the AppleGraphicsControl Kext using this command sudo nano /System/Library/Extensions/AppleGraphicsControl.kext/Contents/PlugIns/AppleGraphicsDevicePolicy.kext/Contents/Info.plist Use the arrow keys to go down until you see <key>ConfigMap</key> followed by a bunch of keys and strings. LOOK FOR YOUR BOARD ID… IF IT IS LISTED: Change the string to <string>none</string> IF IT IS NOT LISTED: Add it in the same format as the ones listed. Save the file by pressing Ctrl+O, then enter. Exit by pressing Ctrl+X Rebuild the kernel cache using the following two commands: sudo kextcache -system-prelinked-kernel AND sudo kextcache -system-caches Have Fun! Theoretically this should work, and I would love for somebody to try as I got an 880m instead. Just keep in mind this is all from research and has not been proven to work. Be sure to research this subject before you try it.
  4. Hi, I have an XMG u705 with the an í7 4790k, a Geforce GTX 980M 8GB, G-Sync Monitor, 32GB DDR3 RAM, etc. and I am damn annoyed by both the Mainboard Bios and Vbios, because both are the cause for a ton of driver issues under Windows 10. Also I can't use my lately bought Samsung 970 Evo, even though technically there should be nothing preventing it. Heck I was even able to install Windows 10 on it, because the Windows 10 installer detected it, just not the Bios which is logically why I cannot boot from it. -.- So in search of a solution, I searched the web and found out that there are several mods for both bios made by devs like Prema. Unfortunately some Bios mods I found are heavily outdated, unfinished, ... or not anywhere secure and I couldn't find any location where I could download Prema's Mods for this device, especially not on his Site (just a Subscribe banner there) or his older Wordpress site (errors). There is also nothing here under Downloads/Clevo/P77xZM. I would be really thankfull if someone could help me.
  5. Hi all, I'm debating whether or not to replace the thermal paste in my Lenovo y510p. I've started overclocking a bit, and I have an external fan, but I would like to not have to run the fan as fast because it is a little loud. I have been reading a bit about different thermal pastes, and I'm wondering if there is even a big difference between stock thermal paste, and something like the liquid metal from thermal grizzly. It sounds like it'd work better, but I don't want to fall for a good marketing scheme. If anyone has experience with this and has or hasn't seen big differences, your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! -Web
  6. Hi all, After I saw this result: http://hwbot.org/submission/2830783_0.0_cpu_frequency_core_i7_4700mq_4550_mhz , I got interested to replicate it with a similar method and decided to share my steps to score higher than a desktop 4.4ghz 4770k (according to cinebench ;)) Intel Stock microcode has a Turbo multiplier bin glitch that allows unlimited multiplier increase, I used prema's bios and removed a cpu microcode update to let the cpu run the stock glitched microcode. I will share the bios file, use it at your own responsibility and if you know what you are doing. 1) Download or dump your BIOS, if your bios is ami (my case) then use AFUWINx64 2) Get AMI Aptio UEFI MMTool v5.0.0.7 and UEFITool, HxD (or your fav hex editor) 3) Open your BIOS image with UEFITool, then File>Search, in our case Haswell has the following ID: , enter C3 06 03 in Hex pattern dialog click OK 4) You can see the last four Hex pattern result, double click the first result and a structure item in the main dialog will be highlighted, right click>Extract as-is to a folder (be sure to be neat and organized or you will mess things up) 5) Do the same with the third result and save it as a diff name other than the first one 6) Now in the folder you have saved the 2 files from step 4&5, open the first one with HxD(any hex editor) and look for be sure to choose Datatype:Hex-values then hit search 7) Press F3 to find again till you reach this pattern(highlighted): 8) (1) Indicates the microcode version, 17 in this case, we want 00 (cpu stock), (2) the platform ID (the search context we reached at) (3) the microcode length = 5000 (in my case) in reverse (important to know when the microcode ends in order to remove). 9) Adjust the cursor on the beginning of the highlight text/microcode (01) right click>Select Block>Length>5000 or whatever in your case 10) Delete the highlighted blocks (after step 9) then save the file 11) Do the same with the second result from step 3 to 10 then save 12) go back to UEFITool, double click the first result like you did in step 4, right click the highlighted structure in the main dialogue > Replace as-is then choose the FIRST file you edited in HxD 13) Double click the third result and follow step 12 with the SECOND file you edited in HxD 14) You will see "Rebuild" in action row, File>Save image as> P15SM04.PM2 in my case (can be any name as long as your flashing tool recognize it) 15) Open AMI Aptio MMTool > Load Image > your modified rom > CPU Patch Tab and verify there is no 06C3 in CPU ID 16) Be brave and flash your BIOS Windows Mod to remove auto update microcode on boot: Click on Start Type CMD in the Search box Right-click on CMD and choose Run as Administrator In the Command Prompt window and change to the directory where the file is located. To do this, use the CD command. You can follow the example below. to change to the Windows\System32 directory you would enter the following command and Press Enter cd \windows\system32 Now use the DEL command to delete the offending file. Type DEL mcupdate_GenuineIntel (and backup) Done! Overclocking: 1) Check CPU MCID:Download AIDA64 , open AIDA64>Motherboard>CPUID and look at IA Brand ID, it should be 00h 2) Download the latest beta Throttlestop (not stable) in my case 810b2 3) Make sure you don't have XTU installed or running (especially at startup) or it will reset any changes in Throttlestop 4) Open throttlestop, click FIVR and look at "[checkbox] Overclock [DIALOG] Max" and note it down 5) Now here is the magic! close FIVR and open it again, [DIALOG] Max value should increase by 2 (up to 80x max ~ 8ghz) everytime you open and close FIVR aslong as long as you increase one of the cores, LOL 6) Increase "Set multiplier" to maximum after your final changes in FVIR (Iv set mine to 42x all cores, so I increased set multiplier to 42 aswell - note voltage ID is messed up ignore it) 7) Increase voltage in FVIR for stability by using cinebench run 3 times instead of prime95, as it stresses FPU which increases heat and tdp instead... 8) Unlock maximum TDP and turbo wattage in TPL, in my case: 9) Done! Changes should be persistent as long as you dont save and exit from BIOS, here is my result in Cinebench with temp throttling (from 4.3 to 3.9 ghz), room temp 25-27 XD: (no.1 at 4.2ghz, no.7 stock latest microcode) UPDATE: OCed RAM from 1600 to 1866, cpu@4.3Ghz, +200mV adaptive vcore: I'm also getting 852 with 4.5ghz with this adaptive voltage-like method: Note: You can maintain maximum turbo multiplier bin with latest microcode after setting it in throttlestop (imp: no crash when testing; make sure its stable) then flash the latest microcode for bug fixes (more stable on my side at x45 with only +230mv, depends on your CPU, i7-4800+ will require less voltage), and you will still be able to set the bin high (up to 80x) as long as you don't crash... Post your results and I'll copy it here. Tips: I highly recommend lapping heatsink and use liquid metal thermal paste or any decent tp ( I used collaboratory liquid ultra) before doing this -If your cpu throttles no matter what, try decreasing dynamic voltage in FVIR and look at maximum value the package power indicate while stressing, decrease the value by 10% in order to avoid rapid throttling (happens with bad TP) -Do not attempt the OC if you are looking after long service life wear&tear (I expect 2 years from now if I stress the cpu everyday for an hour, which i never do :P) Happy overclocking, and don't melt your laptop Thanks to Intel if they leaked this on purpose, kinda futureproofed my machine XD P150SM 1.03.05 modded bios (at your own risk): MOD EDIT: link removed, please use a clean BIOS base because of legal implications with Intel :
  7. Hey all, I updated my Alienware 17 R5 Ranger (2014) to the latest Dell bios "AW17A14". I went around to look for possible fixes, I found that I should be uploading the last Bios I had through a USB stick formatted to FAT32. Now that's pretty simple so far (keep in mind the laptop only turns on the LED's and CPU/GPU fans at full speed looking for a bios file). I downloaded the Bios file from Dell but they have it as an .EXE program. I need it in the proper format to be read by InSyde Bios. I have no idea how to convert it from EXE to the right format. I tried using CMD to run AW17A14.EXE -writehdrfile, but that wouldn't work. This happened right after Dell replaced the MB for the same reason. The second time, my warranty had just expired. I don't wanna pay Dell 359.99$CAD for a new MB because of an issue inflicted by them. Thanks,
  8. JohnyTheMusician

    New Seller of Clevo Models

    Hi, I just found out there is a new Clevo seller in the US. They have quite a good price. I read some information about them in European forums and they seem to be fine. They have most of the Clevo models. If you want to check you can find them here https://dreammachines.io As far as I know in US they were selling so far mice (I saw it on other forum: But I thought if someone is looking for something new and wanna try they might be quite interesting.
  9. Asus presented a Vivo Book S PC line at Computes prior this year, and now it's propelled another expansion to that line. Called the S510, it includes a 15.6-inch Full HD (1920 x 1280) show, seventh-age Intel Core i7 processor, 8GB of RAM, up to 1TB of capacity, and a few ports including USB-C, USB Type-A, USB 2.0, HDMI, a 3.5mm jack, and a SD card peruser. It weighs 3.7 pounds, has a 7.8mm-thick bezel, and looks simply like a Mac Book. This Vivo Book S accompanies a brushed aluminum body. Be that as it may, when we looked at the Vivo Book Pro S15, which begins at £600, we saw it doesn't have a full aluminum body; the base is plastic, with a brushed metal top and deck. We're accepting the S510 is a similar way, however we've reached Asus for more subtle elements. Asus Zenbook Flip S: Super thin convertible stick stuffed with top-rack unit.Asus ZenFone 3 Zoom review: The mid-officer camera phone The VivoBook S S510 runs Windows 10 Home out of the crate and begins at $699. It goes up to $799 contingent upon your coveted design, Asus Customer Service notwithstanding. We're not yet beyond any doubt about UK estimating or accessibility, but rather in the US, you can get the ultra book now through Asus, ABT, B&H, Computer Upgrade King, and Newegg. We figure this PC would be awesome for those of you who need a powerful, ultra versatile PC with MacBook Air-level takes a gander, at a value that is somewhat less demanding to swallow. Furthermore, on the grounds that it doesn't run Windows 10 S, you don't need to stress over constrained usefulness, for example, the powerlessness to download outsider applications.
  10. Hey Everyone, I'm looking for some testers to see if we can get LEGACY SUPPORT for the m17xR4. Furthermore, I've also done MANY updates on this bios, too... I updated RAID (EFI & LEGACY) to v12.9.0.2006 (This may need to be downgraded as the chipset you have may NOT support this raid version, but this is the latest version that will work IF youre running RAID. It also supports TRIM in RAID0. If you are not running raid, I can update to v13 if you want, but we need to test one at a time!) Updated GOP Drivers & GOP Policy Updated vbios from 2098 to 2171 Updated Microcode for all cpu's Added M.2 Support Added NvMe support Updated Atheros Lan Firmware & PXE Boot Firmware Updated To Possibly Give Legacy Support, BUT....... I NEED TESTERS!!! Please contact me if you want to try. Understand, HOWEVER, that am NOT responsible for ANYTHING that happens to your system if it goes wrong. (Just a SMALL disclaimer, heh) Thanks, Swick
  11. Hello everyone, I currently use my laptop for school/work and I know I could have gotten a better one but I didn't pay for it was given to me from my job. I recently purchased an HP omen accelerator and put a MSI 1050 ti in it. Knowing this set up wasn't going to work. My laptop is a i7 HP ENVY x360 Convertible-15m-bp0xx, it doesn't have any thunderbolt ports, it has a USB Type-C port with HP Sleep and Charge. I provided the picture, look at my ignorance. Please help. Is there another way around this, I feel like intel could have came up with a substitute by now.
  12. brruno

    GT72VR GTX 1060 unlock power limit

    So, i have a GT72VR with a 1060 , and after some testing i saw that it is beeing underused. Even using MSI Afterburner the core only reaches ~1800Mhz (in 100% usage , and 9000Mhz on the memories ). This happens because it reaches the Power limit ( 100% , and its blocked) ; is there a custom BIOS (or any other way) to unlock it ? In terms of temperatures it has more than room for it, it only reaches ~75ºC at ~60% fan speed, and it has a 230W PSU (more than enough to push the 1060 further) Thanks
  13. Arthasdmc

    REQUEST - MSI GE72 2QF unlocked VBIOS.

    Hello. I recently cleaned my laptop and changed thermal paste, so GPU has a lot of headroom for OC. At full load it's at 60c. And throttling only starts at 87c for both CPU and GPU. I searched everywhere, but it seems no one really modded this laptop's VBIOS. I found one person who does it, but he requires a donation for it. Since I don't have a lot of money I didn't even try to donate and see if it's enough. So maybe someone can help me out here? The laptop is with i7-4720HQ downclocked to 3.0 Ghz instead of 3.6 Ghz due to temperatures at full load, 16 GB of DDR3 ram and a GTX 970M 3GB. Added link for original VBIOS file. https://www.msi.com/Laptop/support/GE72-2QF-Apache-Pro-4.html#down-firmware Direct download link from MSI. Driver version for the lazy - 84.04.26.00.29.
  14. Hello. I'm the doctor

    Vbios flashing. Need a hand with this

    Obviously I'm trying to get over the stupid OC limit on my laptop. I tried flashing the vBIOS for the entire day with no succes. I used NVflash. This guy says I have something called 'optimus'. He also states that there's a different way to actually flash. https://gyazo.com/11a12fe3b609f35fa541b119f03f3c3c4 Any help would be appreciated, and if someone has a trustworthy modded gtx950m bios they want to share with me that'd be great. I have one but I'm not sure it's going to work with this one. My laptop :http://www.laptopshop.be/product/698368/hp-pavilion-gaming-15-ak120nb-azerty.html?ref=266231&label=22734-AGI-39546111721-ASI-161986568190-698368&gclid=Cj0KEQiAyuPCBRCimuayhb3qqvwBEiQAgz62kaVpOfeAf8QYFp0dJzFlNLHiAkBn_v2lZKYi9TbCoEsaAq6w8P8HAQ
  15. First of all, let me say I haven't finished yet. I'm still working on it and will update this thread from time to time due to much work at the moment. When I fitted my 940xm and the 7970m I got really mad of the heat and the fan noises even in idle mode. So I decided to get it all cooled with a silent, most important quiet, external water cooling system. I checked the internet and found evth I need to get it done. The most difficult thing was to find slim water blocks to cover the dies. I will list all the parts I used with article number and website if you're interested at the end of this post. First the overview. These parts are going to be used: Actually not much, so let's start. I start tubing at the inner hose socket of the reserator. This is the place where the pump is placed behind. You have to use a 10/8mm hose. By this, 10mm means the outside diameter of the hose, 8mm means the inside diameter. This is very important to know by everything you do on water cooling systems due to different fittings, barbs or reducers. Fit the hose and tighten it well with a spanner. Now you need a reducer to get on a 8/6mm hose. This is necessary to get in fitted to the chiller. At the other end you need to fit the 8/6mm hose. After this is done the 8/6mm hose leads into the chiller. A chiller pushs down your temps to a predefined value set by you, the minimum you can get theoretically is +3°C. Basically you can say it works like a refrigerator. This is very helpfully when you start gaming or other intense work on the laptop to keep the temps low. Here are some pics of it. To get the hose fitted the first custom made had to be done. Maybe I didn't know how it actually works, but I had no clue how else to do it without a modification... As you can see on the picture, the 1/4" adapter didn't fit to the chiller's nozzle. I really don't know what's the original idea by the developers. So the first adjustment had to be made. Cut the end of the nozzle as you can see on the pic. When this was done I noticed really pour casting quality inside the nozzle. This would massively reduce your flow speed. So I used a drill to get it out. Finally I got an outside diameter of 13mm at the nozzle. The adapter has 12mm inside diameter So just perfect to cut a M14 thread to both parts. Unfortunately I couldn't get closer due to the layout of the die. two washers solve this problem to get it proper tightened. To get it proper sealed I used teflon tape. Just the best way to get something sealed. Don't do it without any sealing! Use some Vaseline before you stick in the nozzles. Do the same with second side of course. At the end it'll look like that. Let's get to the CPU water block. I purchased the Thermaltake CL-W0052 Tide Water, originally made for desktop PCs to cool down the graphics card, on ebay to get all the stuff I'll need to do it. I chose that one because the water block has just a height of 8mm. Also all the hoses and clamps will be helpful. First drain the coolant. Then I opened the chassis and robbed all hoses and clamps. You'll need them in a couple of minutes. They're all bonded quite well, so just cut them at the ends. I also cut and removed the hoses of the water block itself, just to make sure everything is okay. I didn't want to get upset when I filled the system with water. So I cut them and removed the old adhesive. I then removed the original cpu heatsink and compared the die with the water block The water block as it was out from the box was just a touch too small to fit correctly onto the die. So I just removed the tape around the block. Now it was ready to get fitted. All I needed to do was loosing the existing bolts on the water block and tightened it with M2.5x20 hex nut bolts into the existing holes. At the end it looks like that. By the way, the mosfet heatsinks came with the tide water vga cooler. I also fitted the black hoses as they were, just without the glew and it still seals perfectly. To get the hoses guided out of the laptop you need to remove your fan control at the back of your laptop. When you're doing this, be careful not to touch the chassis as I did with whatever you use. I used the dremel and didn't see it for a while. What a shame! Nevermind, so let's get over to the gpu side. I bought a very tiny water block with just 15x15x7mm dimensions to not to exceed the height. So may be later I will be able to fit the backplate cover again. The water blocks would actually fit on the die, perfectly. But due to the layout of the gpu die the block just fits in diagonal postion. So useless for me. To get the water block in the right direction I unsoldered the copper plate of the original heatsink. That one has got the right dimensions to get this solved. Clean the copper plate from the old tin on top by using the Dremel or sandpaper. At the end that's the way it should work. Just to mention, also the holder came with Thermaltake tide water cooler. The bolts I bought seperatly on ebay. They are M1.6x20 but too long, so I cut them down to 15mm. Now they fit into the existing holes and push down the block properly Use now the -->small<-- black hoses robbed from Thermaltake chassis. These are the inside hoses, they're smaller. You need to use some adhesive because the clamps coming with the hoses are just a way too big and don't keep it tight to nozzle. Now just add some thermal paste between copper plate and die, and copper plate and water block. Tighten it all down. Finally it looks like that. [ATTACH=CONFIG]5105[/ATTACH] hoses leaded through the fan grill, gpu side. I mention again, just temporarily cause I'm still waiting for parts. in progress... [ATTACH=CONFIG]5107[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]5106[/ATTACH] cpu side [ATTACH=CONFIG]5108[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5109[/ATTACH] The hose laying is actually just in common sense. Nothing particular I should mention. Reserator -> 10/8mm hose -> 10/8mm to 8/6mm reducer -> 1/4" compression fitting -> 1/4" adapter for chiller -> chiller nozzle -> chiller -> nozzle, adapter, fitting -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter first end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> quick coupling -> black hose (termaltake tide water) -> cpu block inlet-> cpu outlet -> black hose -> quick coupling -> 8/6mm -> Y-splitter second end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> 6mm barb -> small black hose (thermaltake tide water) -> gpu block inlet -> gpu outlet -> small black hose -> 6mm barb -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter | Y-splitter -> 8/6mm hose -> 10/8 to 8/6mm reducer -> reserator update in progress...
  16. Intel starts sending Kaby Lake Processors to Laptop and Desktop Manufacturers Kaby Lake is the first Intel CPU to break the ‘tick-tock’ cycle, retired this year. Looking ahead, each manufacturing process of Intel will have three cycles to get the maximum performance of each process node in the future. The Intel Kaby Lake will be the third and final 14nm chip, then in 2017, Intel will make the jump to 10nm withCanonlake, then we will remain in lithography of 10nm until 2020 and you can expect a new range of processors every year. Is expected that new CPUs will have a TDP up to 95W and provide native support for several current technologies such as USB 3.1, HDCP 2.2 and Thunderbolt 3. This is an ‘optimization’ CPU, so it will be based on the technology introduced in Broadwell and Skylake, so hopefully new processors won’t a compared to Skylake CPUs launched huge performance leap last year. New CPUs will also be presented in the new Surface tablets in early 2017. Source First details of Intel’s 7th Generation Kaby Lake Core i7-7700K Regarding the specifications of Core i7-7700K, this flagship processor of the company (for that platform) is equipped with four cores with HyperThreading technology, it has a total of 8 logical cores at a base frequency of 3.60 GHz reaching the 4.20 GHz with TurboBoost frequency, far from the 4.00 GHz Base and 4.20 GHz Turbo-Boost of the current Core i7-6700K, although it could be changed as for now we are talking about an engineering sample. The information is supplemented with HD graphics with 24 Execution Unit , 256 KB cache Level 2 (L2) per core, 8MB distributed to the L3 cache, and its launch would take place at the end of the current year, so there is still enough time ahead. Source View full article
  17. Hello people of Tech Inferno. I am trying to get my laptop withing with an eGPU, i have: Lenovo e540 laptop, EXP GDC Beast 8.4d with mPCIe connector, Nvidia GTS 450, Power X3 450W PSU, eGPU setup 1.30 Initially I would get a black screen when trying to boot with the eGPU connected and when trying with plugging the mPCIe connector in during boot I got this error: "0187: EAIA data access error. 2201: Machine UUID is invalid." Connecting the GPU to an external monitor has no effect. I got around this by putting tape on one of the pins as per this post. After that I no longer get the black screen but windows 7 does not detect the GPU, the fan on the GPU still spins when the laptop turns on and there is a green light on the EXP GDC. I followed the guide on this post but I got this BSOD once rebooting after applying the DSDT override in step 2: "The BIOS in this system is not fully ACPI compliant. Please contact your system vendor for an updated BIOS. Technical information: ***STOP: 0x000000A5 (0x0000000000000006,0xFFFFFA80066BCD50,0xFFFFFA8007103CAB,0XFFFFFA80074FD340)" Does anyone have and suggestions or advice? Thank you in advance. UPDATE: Was able to get Win 7 to detect the GPU when swapping the mPCIe connector while in sleep mode but now I have error 12. UPDATE: Tried the DSDT override guide here but loading dsdt-modified.aml as a registry override causes a blue screen and setup 1.3 hangs when loading the dsdt-modified.aml as an in-memory substitution, it does not hang when the SATA mode is changed from AHCI to Compatibility but it is too fast for me to tell what it does and it causes windows to freeze on boot once it is done with no effect on memory for the next boot. Got it working, just trying to get the laptop to switch to the eGPU now.
  18. faldinv

    Barebone Laptop Use MSI Laptop Bios

    Hello, i have barebone laptop MS-16F3. I buy this from computer seller company with brand name Forsa. I think this company just import this laptop and rebrand it. The real name is Rabook Firebook F640. Okay, i want to ask, can i update my BIOS Laptop with MSI GT60 BIOS? Because i can use the driver for MSI GT60. Sorry for the bad english, thanks for respond
  19. nrpaul1015

    EGPU setups

    I am relatively new to the online PC gaming experience and would like some input on my next project. Right now, I would like to make myself a proficient (not two expensive) EGPU setup for my laptop. I don't have the funds nor the experience to build a tower yet so i want to start with this. I have a Toshiba Satellite and here are its specs. : Toshiba Satellite L50-C Intel Core i7-5500U CPU - 2.4 GHz 16 G's of ram My question is what setup including card, power supply, etc. I should use? Thanks for your input ahead of time.
  20. matth2212

    MS-1762 upgrading from gtx 675m

    Hello Everyone. This is my first post, I'm not really that well educated in the world of laptops, so please go easy, I might need a bit of hand holding here. my laptop is the GT70-0nc, its the barebones MS-1762 I believe, I bought it from a custom laptop builder online. The 675m is fried I think, BSOD all over the place, disabling it and switching to my HD4000 integrated fixed the BSOD. I'm looking into upgrading the GPU of my laptop except there's some things that have me completely baffled... 1. Which GPU's are actually compatible? - I was looking at the 680m but if there are newer gpu's that work I'd love consider those too. 2. I have read a lot about flashing my BIOS, this really confused me. I get the American Megatrends Logo on boot up, so I tried checking out their BIOS but everything i've read says use the MSI VBios? I have a good bit of experience with the hardware in my laptop, I've taken it apart quite a few times like to change thermal paste / general maintinence and upgrade my WIFI card. it's the software and compatibility issues that are really getting me stuck. Any help would be massively appreciated! Thanks
  21. Hello. I have a Lenovo z70-80 laptop. i7-5500u (2.40GHz). 16GB ram. Nvidia 840m (I believe). The laptop has done wonderful for all of my school CS projects, but I have recently started gaming and I notice a serious lack of graphics power (or to me). I have no experience with building computers, nor do know what many of the technical acronyms mean! I digress. I noticed I wasnt able to run games like rainbow 6 siege or H1z1:KOTK without putting the graphics to the lowest level possible. Even then siege was giving me 22fps when standing still. I also noticed that my Nvidia GPU was not being used. Instead my intel HD 5500 graphics (idk what it is man okay... im sorry!) was being used to process all of the graphics. Long story short. I want to know if i could/should run an eGPU? is it even possible on this model? if so what should i look towards. also any other tips or suggestions are welcome! thank you.
  22. Sup everybody A few months back, I bought an Alienware GTX 780m to replace my ASUS GTX 460m that was in my ASUS G53JW laptop. I had zero knowledge or experience, but thanks to all the guides you wrote, the card immediately worked after flashing an ASUS GTX 780m vbios onto it. The fans were controlled, and my graphics performed many times better than it did before. The only issue was that HDMI stopped working. At the time, I didn't need HDMI, but now I do. Can you help me out?
  23. Published on Dec 6, 2016 I have seen a lot of people online lately asking questions and wondering if it is possible to have an external graphics setup via thunderbolt for an HP Spectre (Product name:HP Spectre Notebook Product number: W2K28UA#ABA). In general, i want to show an eGPU setup via any thunderbolt 3 connection. In this video i will show how to successfully setup and run an eGPU with 3 main components. Keep in mind that if you are going to use the Akitio PCIe thunderbolt 3 expansion box like i did, you WILL NOT be able to fit full length graphics cards, they must be half length and up to full height double width. Akitio Thunderbolt 3 PCIe expansion box: (around $260) --- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 950 Graphics Card: (actually around $200 - i said $300 in the video so thats a plus) --- https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-C... Power Supply EVGA 430 w: (around $25) --- https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-War... Also, here is a link below to download the Geforce Experience for driver installation and updates. --- http://www.geforce.com/geforce-experi... Grand total, just shy of around 500 bucks give or take shipping costs. A bit steep considering that the majority is spent on the expansion box however, it is good to have the freedom to expand upon mobile hardware. Its also important to note that when i clocked the stock GPU it barely ran on the same program. it scored a mere 2400 as compared to the eGPU setup which scored over 9000, equating to roughly a 450% increase in raw graphics capability. If you have any questions please ask away.
  24. So basically, I wanted to find a way to play games without lagging everywhere and the only thing that is bad on my laptop is the graphics card, so somehow I stumbled into this eGPU page and hopefully someone can help me basically understand how all of this works or at least attempt to help me out. So I have an Dell Inspiron 17 7000 series and ill basically copy and paste the processor if that is relevant information. The processor is a Intel(R) core(TM) i5-5200U CPU @ 2.20GHz so I have no idea what most of this means because when it comes to laptops and modification I am just completely clueless. I was just hoping to get an answer from someone if I could even have a eGPU setup and what it would cost me for that and if it is even worth doing. I know this is where people who know everything about this stuff, but I am just really interested to see if I could actually just upgrade graphics cards without buying a brand new computer, and hopefully somebody can help a clueless man. Thank you for reading and replying if you choose to.
  25. Hi! I've recently got myself a used Dell M6700 and since I have some parts laying around I thought it was a good idea to play with it a little. All mods have gone good so far and I am down to the configuration for best performance and data safety. This thread is about configuring hard drives so that they give me reliability in case of emergency. My configuration is: M6700, i7 3940XM, GTX880m, 16GB RAM, Windows 10 x64 Anniversary Edition 1x ADATA DP910 SSD 1TB (main storage) 1x Samsung PM 851a SSD mSATA 1TB (secondary storage) 1x Seagate ST1000LM024 1TB (backup drive) How do I use the PC? I use the main storage for OS (partition 1 with ~300 GB space) and programs (partition 2, remaining space), which are mostly music production tools, video and graphic design tools and some games from time to time. The secondary storage is currently used as a place for downloads and data that I don't use super-frequently, such as old photos, old music projects, etc. The HDD drive is in a separate bay and I can plug it in/out anytime. Currently empty and waiting for further actions. What do I need? I have experienced different drive failures in the past and am aware that nothing lasts forever. I am super nervous about the data I store on my main drive as sometimes I need to carry the laptop with me to play a gig or work somewhere away from home. In these situations I need to be sure nothing happens to the PC or that I have an easy backup. What I want to achieve is a setup that works like this: main drive working most of the time, secondary storage for less important data and a backup drive that'd essentially be a clone of the main drive - if the ADATA fails I wish I could switch the boot sequence in BIOS options to the backup drive and make the PC work again with the same OS, same settings and most importantly, very quickly after the failure. Now, I know that my M6700 comes with RAID configuration, but for now I am using AHCI setup for the three drives. First question is: is the RAID controller of my laptop a hardware one or is it a software option? I don't want to use anything that would slow down the CPU. As far as I know - RAID 1 (never used it before) is something similar to what I want - I believe it clones the drive (does it also clone MBR?) sector by sector. Would it work as I described above? If yes then do I need to reinstall Windows again to change from AHCI to RAID? Or maybe after the change a FIXMBR method would be enough to get it going again? Windows 10 comes with several backup options: File History, System Image Backup and the regular Backup. To my knowledge, none of these options are what I need - a quick way to repair my laptop if the main drive stops working. Yes, I could probably restore my data from these backups, but no, I won't be able to boot the PC in 5 minutes after the failure, am I right? Would it be better to just purchase some backup software and set it to automatically clone my drive from time to time? Let me know what you think and if you have any suggestions, feel free to leave a comment
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