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I truly hope lenovo sees this and notes the CONSIDERABLE performance increases and take into consideration the lifespan of the laptops going up drastically. And as a result give us access to the fan speeds via software. Many people who have purchased the Lenovo Y510P have noted its absolute lack of fan control abilities the below is half guide/half performance report. This is to show what the Y510P is capable of if it were to have unlocked fan controls which are currently impossible to access. The below is a fairly simple hardware mod that involves removing one wire from the PWM controller on the motherboard. ((difficulty 4/10)) !NO SOLDERING!----------- Beginning The Fan Mod ----------------- The Fan will ALWAYS run at 100% it cannot be changed unless you reattach the wire. While cooler temperatures are always good this does sacrifice battery life. This is all likelyhood voids your warranty use at your own risk. The fan will be significantly louder than normal and will likely be very noticeable. You will need. 1x Phillips Head screwdriver (that fits the Y510P screws) 1x VERY SMALL flathead screwdriver A dish to keep the screws The assumption that you have some technical skills. Remove the battery and charger Carefully remove the bottom cover of the laptop Remove the sticker to the right of the fan to access the area with the controller Using the small flathead screwdriver lift up on small block at the end of the cable carefully use the small screw driver to lift one of the clips that holds the BROWN wire carefully and gently remove the brown wire from its casing (any more than a nudge is too much) securely plug the block back where it came from following the natural curves of the cable. Place the brown wire in a place where it will not create a circuit (behind the other larger connector) * for added security you can tape the end of the cable to assure no accidental connections. Without closing the bottom power on the laptop and give it 10 seconds if the fans do not turn on shut the laptop down assure all of your connections are correct and reseat the plug to assure contact. Final Result: [URL]http://i.imgur.com/pWwS6FS.jpg[/URL] After the cable is removed: [URL]http://i.imgur.com/4w8F3L6.jpg[/URL] Showing the plug to remove: [URL]http://i.imgur.com/pWwS6FS.jpg[/URL] -----------------------------------------------------------Benchmarks![URL]https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sD4GP-DL59kPd5FaJZgMBZjsm9JzDqJ_UbBP-FI7lwQ/edit#gid=0[/URL] Y510P Temps & Preformance. No Fan Mod Fan Mod OC Fan Mod OC No Fan Mod Important Notes Below. Temps Taken in °F Idle Temperature - CPU 95 °F 91 °F 91 °F 95 °F CPU was NOT Overclocked. All tests lasted 10:00 (unless otherwise stated) Prime 95. All tests are conducted at 1366*768 Small FFT's 198°F 165°F 165°F 198°F V-Sync is off unless otherwise stated. Large FFT's 198°F 165°F 165°F 198°F * indicates that exact values could/was not recorded Blend 198°F 165°F 165°F 198°F Unigine Heaven Benchmark lasts the default time period. Unigine Heaven Benchmark. DX11 - Ultra Quality 192°F 167°F 178°F ****************************** Tessellation: Extreme 17.5 FPS 18.2 FPS 21.2 FPS *** Thermal Shutdown *** Overclocking Settings. Anti-Aliasing: 8x Score: 420* Score: 459 Score: 512* ****************************** Core Clock (MHz) +135 Memory Clock (MHz) +500 DX11 - Medium Quality 190°F 167°F 178°F Tessellation: Medium 30.1 FPS 35.5 FPS 40.2 FPS ** Tests ended for safety** Anti-Aliasing: 4x Score: 795* Score: 895 Score: 1013 Specs. Intel Core i7 - 4700 MQ - 2.4Ghz /w 3.4Ghz Turbo Battlefield 3 - Ultra Preset 193°F 168°F 180°F ** Tests ended for safety** 8 GB - 1600mhz Memory 64 Player - Operation Firestorm 31 FPS 48 FPS* 66 FPS 1tb - 5400rpm hdd 1366x768 Screen. Crysis 3 - Scene 1 Mission 1 193°F 168°F 185°F ** Tests ended for safety** Nvidia 755m - Drivers July 2014 Maximum Settings 14 FPS 24 FPS 29 FPS 130w Charger (battery removed) *Note: The massive performance difference on bf3 is worth noting and may contain a data flaw, please accept the finding with a grain of salt.
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Thank you to anyone that submits their computer to these tests. also I'm terribly sorry for asking so many questions i just want to cover all of the bases. the details on this laptop online are scarce and i hope this answers a lot of peoples questions. The fan control question is of particular importance to me In general more pictures and screenshots would also be helpful try focusing on... well, everything ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I would like to know what the bios menu looks like in the Y50 what settings are available and what menus are given by Lenovo by default. I would like to know if the fans are able to be controlled with SpeedFan this was one of my major dislikes about my current Y510P and its preference to chose minimum cooling policy making even simple games run at 98c consistently. I would like to know if the SSD included runs via a M2 slot of a MSATA slot and the R/W of of the drive, please specify the size and any other info (including os) I would like to know how far back the screen can bend preferably in the form of an angle measurement from what I've seen online it appears to stop at aprox. 150° additional photos of the hinges would be VERY helpful also pictures in general would be much appreciated. I would like to know how the system deals with heat (again a major concern from the y510p) general information would be helpful along with Furr Mark, Unigine Valley and other benchmarks that focus on CPU or GPU performance anything that preforms a high power stress test. Please specify which usb port provides the always on function. Also a high resolution well focused picture of the keyboard would be much appreciated i would like to know if the keys are flat or if they are arched like the Y510p's keyboard, and could you describe the ease of use of the trackpad. What is the wattage of the power supply provided? 170w or 130w also what kind of connector does it use? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thank you once again Y50 owners for answering the questions above there may be more below and answer those if you would like and know we all appreciate it.
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Upon trying to install (k)ubuntu, and possibly other Linux distributions, you may find that your installation stalls with a blank screen. I'm posting this here rather than in Linux section because it's specific to this make and/or model, but I've seen other posts with issues getting past install. The trick to getting the desktop install to boot completely to the GUI is to enable legacy boot in the BIOS (still allowing UEFI), as well as removing your 2nd GPU card during install. Once you have the system installed, reboot and install the real nvidia drivers, shut down your system, re-insert your 2nd GPU and you're all set. I'm not exactly sure why the legacy option has to be enabled even when you're using EFI, but it seems to have something to do with the way the graphics are set up during POST.
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Hi, I bought this laptop because it was in October 2013 the best choice for me. It had a new i7-4700MQ Haswell, a powerfull GT 755M GPU that can handle any game, a FULL HD screen, 8GB of RAM, plenty of space, backlit keyboard, even a M.2 cache SSD to boost up the performance of the OS and some programs, and a new Intel Wireless-N 7260 card (300Mbps) PLUS Bluetooth 4.0. I like Lenovo/IBM, pretty solid devices. I trust on Intel (trusted...), I needed a powerful machine, so I purchased it. The first impressions were good, stunning screen, beautiful design, fasty fasty... I started to see some weak points: it's noticeable wider than any 15" laptop, Num Lock was not always activated at startup, really BAD touchpad, Dolby Home Theater v4 was not that great (stock drivers), the screen should be more stable (hinges should be tougher holding the screen unmovable)... Then I changed the touchpad driver by UltraNav one, HUGE difference, much better experience, much better features. Nice. Then I discovered the REAL DEAL of the Dolby Home Theater v4, when I installed the drivers from a Thinkpad driver's page. Much better sound, when watching films it makes a huge difference. Really a MUST-HAVE. Then I noticed that the wireless card wasn't that good. Intel Wireless-N 7260 has a shitty range, it is worse than any of my different laptops or smartphones. I don't really know if it's this WiFi card or if it's a Lenovo's fault. I've contacted to Intel and they say that if I have WiFi range problems, I have to ask Lenovo for a solution, and it's probably an antenna issue. Nevertheless, it was "good" enough, so I didn't care too much. In 5 months of use I've not had a WiFi problem at all, just lower signal than the rest of my devices. Well, sometimes there have been issues, yes, but I've solved them. I don't know if they were because of the antenna, or Windows 8.1 or the drivers. BTW, I've always been using generic drivers, and the latest ones, except audio drivers (Dolby) and Touchpad (ultranav). All was up to date, 7260, bluetooth, GPU... Then I noticed that Windows 8.1 was great, but it has some huge fails: WiFi interface (notification bar, lower-right corner) is pure pure pure SH*T, it's like I had a tablet, the menu, the lack of options (well, it has just like 2 options), the lack of information, the network scan... My Android smartphone shows more detailed information about networks than that. To see more detailed information, you gotta go to Control Panel, Networks, search WiFi card and right-click. Windows Store is just unbelievably bad, you can't clear installed apps, it's laggy, sloppy, and slow. Here again, Android's Google Play is WAAAY better than it. Then I've found 2 programs that are not too friendly with Windows 8.1, and it annoys me, and the admin notifications sometimes drive me crazy, but meh, more or less I love Windows 8.1 once you "delete" Metro screen and install Classic Shell and use this OS as W7. Then I discovered the Energy Management stunning option to improve the battery life SO much. It charges the battery to 60% and then it doesn't use it or charge it, so I have almost a brand new battery after 5 months. Then I find out that when I remove the battery, that options is reset. Then I find out that when you use the laptop without AC, it's bugged, cause it says that the battery is going to last 4h when you have 60% of the battery (surfing, YT, forums...), and then it lasts 1h, because the battery drains from 42% to 10% in less than 20 seconds. It's fixed with a battery gauge reset, which is done through Energy Management, and it lasts almost 6h after doing that (with 100% battery). But I think that the issue of the battery drain comes again after a full discharge of the battery, or at least the battery doesn't last as long as it should be. Really impressive battery life (for a normal use), but bad software management. Another issue I had was that when I turned off the laptop, backlit keyboard didn't turn off, and the laptop never shut down. So I had to press the ON/OFF button for a few second to force shut down. After a few weeks, it has never happened. It was a driver problem, I think. But the first real issues came: First, I had to restore my laptop because of a Windows Update KB2919355. I SWEAR that 890MB update is so messed up, it's a joke how corrupted it is. After 2 days contacting to Microsoft, even TIER 2 (the most expert agents of Windows support), controlling remotely my laptop, tried to fix the issue, and nothing. They said that I had to freaking RESTORE my laptop. Just because an update wasn't working. Great MS. As it was impossible to solve, I had to do it. BTW, their reply was "this error says that the update is corrupt, and we don't know how to fix it. It happens RANDOMLY, it's not your laptop, we've been facing this issue in other laptops". Randomly. Wow, Windows Update is now Kinder Surprise, you can update correctly or you can open the Kinder and corrupt your OS, hell yeah. Second, my WiFi range mysteriously is reduced (more than usual) to the router/modem's room. If I wasn't in the same room (where the signal was good-best and it worked nice), signal was poor and VERY unstable. I gotta say that my ISP replaced my modem 1 day ago before this occurred, but since every single device (3 laptop's with different OS, smartphones...) worked perfectly with it, it was a problem of my laptop. After trying out a lot of drivers, rolling back, original ones, the newest ones... I gave up and restored. I also tried Intel's PROSet utilities, and the same. Third, after restoring, I didn't install any software, first I checked my WiFi range, and it had changed to it's previous range (kind of what the hell, without touching anything but my laptop). I started to updating Windows 8.1 x64 through Windows Update, everything automatically and restarting when it asked me to, and BOOOM, after 49 updates, there it came that mother ***** corrupt update again and the same error again. Restore again, Windows update, fail again, that same update. Just about call Microsoft again, try one more time, restore, Windows Update, and worked, installed correctly. Now I'm facing a new problem. I've updated everything (drivers too) but Intel 7260 drivers and Bluetooth drivers of the same card (so I don't touch any thing related to the WiFi range, though latest drivers of both devices were working great days before my ISP replaced the modem). When I add a new device to my Bluetooth devices, a BSOD appears, restarts my laptop and DELETES my official, stock, original and untouched Bluetooth drivers. I go to device manager and there's no Bluetooth there. I install the latest BT drivers from Intel.com, and after restarting, device manager is still not showing any BT device. And those drivers are the ones I've been using for 5 months. May be they don't work If I don't update my 7260 card. But I'm not doing that. I've installed the drivers from lenovo.com, that are newer than the ones that come when I restore to factory status. Apparently, the issue is solved, cause I've added a device now. After sending some files and check that it's working, I delete the device and try to add it again. BSOD appears, I go nuts. After it has restarted, I check device manager and I see a Bluetooth error, that wasn't there the last time I checked. Windows error code 43. I restart, reinstall the web official drivers again, disassemble the back of the laptop, unplug the WiFi card (7260 where's the Bluetooth too), reconnect the 2 black and white wires, and FOR NOW it's solved. BTW, after 5 months, I've never had a problem with Bluetooth, though I've been using the latest BT drivers all the time: 17.X.X. Man, I don't know if it's Windows 8.1, hardware, Lenovo's software design... but I wish I don't have any other problem related to this laptop, ever. Some questions here: 1. The Wireless card antenna is in the same card or it's in the laptop? I've read that it's in the screen of the laptop. My point is, if the range problem is a antenna's issue, changing the card won't do anything. 2. With my BIOS v3.07, I can't change the Wireless card, right? I have to install a new version, isn't it?
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Hello, T|I Forum I looked around on this forum for titles hitting anything similar to this situation, but didn't find anything similar myself. I am also sorry for this long post, I wanted to be sure to give as much info on the problem as possible to help answer this problem. Using Nando4's Awesome "DIY eGPU experiences [version 2.0]" guide, I was able to get my setup working very easily with my T420 on Windows 7 Pro. Pleased with how well things were running I decided to buy a used T430 when one passed by my work for refurbishment.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> At first things were still going well with the setup, I currently have these specs here: Computer: Lenovo T430 /w Intel HD Graphics 4000 (only) 512 GB SSD (Main Drive) less then 6 months old 500 GB HDD (Backup Drive) less then a year old 8 GB of RAM less then 6 months old Windows 8.1 eGPU: NVidia GeForce GTX 660 (Would also like to upgrade to the GTX 780 if this issue can be fixed) PE4H (PCIe passive adapter ver2.4) Mini to Mini EC2C The Issues: After many days (2) of testing and reading through different googled searched forums trying to pin point this issue (not an easy one IMA as the main solution was to "disable each driver one at a time to see it the problem stops" Which ended in a Win 8 Refresh.) I ended up narrowing it down to the eGPU, as without it the computer runs fine and smooth, can play music and videos without it skipping every few seconds, and even games on low settings (the best this laptop can do without an eGPU :/ ) ran smoothly without jittering all over the place. However when I attach the eGPU, anytime I open a new window, start watching videos, or play any games, the DPC reading would spike off the charts every few seconds then back to normal. This may seem small, but during this spike, all audio would cut out as well as display a noticeable jitter on anything being displayed real time. The tool I'm using to read the DPC levels is "DPC Latency Checker V1.3.0" and I was using "LatencyMon" but that would just flood me with more info than I know what to do with. Other (useful?) Notes: The system always seemed to do the jittering thing with the T420 as well, but I always pushed that as being just because the GPU was a bit outdated, and the small lag never bothered me as much as it does now on the T430. The T430 might of had an update to the BIOS too. I now have new options and features I didn't notice before yesterday, something I had to visit yesterday after my SSD refuse to boot and had to reinstall Windows 8.1 when the repair disk would say the SSD was locked, (maybe due to a BIOS setting I changed when telling it to optimize it for Windows 8). As of Now, I have a bear bone Win 8.1 including its updates as well, as well as the latest updates (that I know of) for the chipsets and GPUs. Also, before the BIOS change, I was never able to run the eGPU on the Express card setting "Automatic" which would allow for Gen 2 devices to connect. Now I can! or so it seems. I now also have no issue turning on the PC with the eGPU already connected and on the "Automatic" setting, where before It would just cause the PC to never boot into windows. Things I Would Also Like To Know: This coming PowerBall Numbers? How to set up my PE4H ver 2.4 to run 2.0 with my 2.0 GPU to my 2.0 Express Card Slot. What are the other Channels for? Why does sticking the mini HDMI cable into PCI x2 instead of PCI x1 not provide power "= to" Gen 2 speeds? What is the delay switch for? Why does this board have no instructions when sent to people... This I wounded from day one after receiving the device. Oh and last (for now) A good thick cable to connect the mini to mini for best data rate... (Does it work like normal HDMI where that can be an issue?)
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So in attempts to make my unruly machine (y400) boot from the USB for the unlocked bios mod. I fiddled with the settings for the uefi (bios), clever me decided it'd be a good idea to mess around with the BOOT options in the uefi. Changed the boot options all the legacy (where applicable), changed the optimized settings to other OS (other than windows 8, and again changed the boot mode to legacy support rather than the UEFI. Now, after sobering up and slapping my self several times, i regret that decision. Can anyone provide any support as to how to revert back to the standard UEFI, and how to boot with USB on this system so i can install a real network card and not carry around a massive dongle. Anything ive tried has been shot down in flames for the past few hours and i really dont want to disassemble the laptop to remove the UEFI battery to reset it (if that still works). Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Hell, if you can solve all those problems and somehow use tech wizardry to also solve my graphics driver issues ill gift you.
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I noticed that the 750 SLI y510p laptop on Lenovo now includes 16GB of RAM. The model I purchased off of the outlet only included 8GB of RAM. So, the age old question; Will I benefit graphics wise by going to 16GB from 8GB? I have read that increasing the RAM will allow a video card to use more system memory, capping at 4GB. My impression is that a single card would not benefit from the increase. But what about the SLI configuration? Thank you!
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Hello All, My Lenovo y510p is going to sleep after ~125 seconds of inactivity. I can not figure out why. Could anyone give me some ideas please? Windows 8.1 Screensaver is blank after 5 min Powerplan is high performance with the following settings (all for plugged in): turn off display after 15 min computer sleep 30 min Advanced: Hard disk turn off after 20 min sleep after 30 min hybrid sleep off never hibernate allow wake timers disable turn off display I am using lenovo energy management set to high performance, battery mode = optimized battery health Thank you!
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Just got my new lenovo y510p and i really need an ssd in it.. It has 1 regular 2.5" hd bay, one msata bay and 1 ultra bay.. I got a 120gb samsung 830 ssd (from my old laptop) and the problem is that its too small so thats why i need that + the 1tb harddisk at the same time.. My question is, will the 1tb harddisk work slower in an ultrabay/sata dock that fits in insted of the dvd drive? (in other words, should i go and buy a msata ssd and use that so the 1tb hd can stay in its normal bay) or should i save some money and move my 1tb hd to the ultra bay and install my normal 2.5" ssd inside?? What would you do??
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Hello fellow Lenovo owners, I've started at tech thread over at the Lenovo forums, to ask them for a bios update to solve the TOLUD problem. Atm. i'm running the latest bios (2.59), and unfortunately my PCI bus memory adress says: DFA00000 - > TOLUD 3,5 GB = no room for eGPU with 4GB+ RAM. I've tried to override DSDT aswell (Windows 7, 64 bit), but it all turns out to BSOD's at boot. I've stumbled across another thread on lenovo forums, which gained the right attention for the Lenovo staff to update the bios's on the X230 and T230 models: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/X-Series-ThinkPad-Laptops/X230-expresscard-adressing-eGPU/td-p/792909 Therefore I hope it will be possible, for the T430/T530/W530 owners to receive the same solution. But for that I need the Lenovo staffs attention, ad therefore, your help. head over to my thread at: T430 expresscard adressing (eGPU) - Lenovo Community and leave a comment, if you would like to see a solution in the future. Hopefully in the end, it will be something the bios tech guys pay attention to, in the future bios designs. Thanks in advance - Aatind (Denmark)
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It seems the monitor supports 60Hz. But when you try to set it to 60Hz, the configuration cannot be saved. Any thoughts?
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I have a Lenovo Y400 and it's stuck in a boot loop. It loads up to the lenovo logo and then after about a second a BSOD appears. Strange thing is that I can't see the error because the BSOD exits too quickly. Before the boot loop happened I scheduled windows memory diagnostics then I had to force shutdown my laptop because it hanged. At about 90% of the memory test the blue screen appeared. Also I have recently overclocked my gpu. What I want to know is the cause of the boot loop and if there is a fix for it. Any help is appreciated.
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Hello Guys. I have the Lenovo Y500 with Windows 8. I just want to ask if you rate me to download windows 8.1 or not. Thanks for help noesges
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Hello guys, I have the notebook Lenovo Y500 with 2 Gt650m. I want more Performance with the Notebook, because I want play games with better grafics. Specialy i want play Arma 2 and Arma 3 with better grafics. I ha overclocked the 2 GT650M with msi Afterburner. The GPU Clock is 925mhz and the Memory Clock 1275 mhz. My bios is locked because i dont can download the unlocked bios because i havent enough posts. So i want ask you if you have any tips for more performance. I hope you can help me guys. noesges
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I have a Lenovo Ideapad Y400 running Windows 8. I recently sent it in for a dead GPU, which Lenovo fixed by replacing the motherboard. Now the brightness adjustment does not work. I have tried two different Nvidia drivers, both of which are WHQL. I have tried turning on and off adaptive brightness and the EnableBrightnessControl registry hack. Neither had any effect. The brightness keys do nothing, and the slider moves but has no effect. Any suggestions? EDIT: Got it to work. Uninstall drivers, reinstall 310.something in safe mode.
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Y500 650M Overclock Thread I can not find any of my 3dmark keys... EVGA deleted them I guess. So I am using Valley from Uni Engine. I so far have a stable clock at 969mhz Core 2500mhz Mem Score on Extreme HD 1046 Stays around 70c. Increased playability of games a whole hec of a lot. But I have noticed small artifacts so I may either see if its throttling down, or if it just happens to be to high a mem clock maybe lower the cor to 950 and keep mem up. Let me know all your experiences! I did this with Afterburner, and of course unlocked bios. Nothing special though. No CP changes, or driver tweaks. I used to be much in to benchmarking but now I look at it this way, my car may go 150 but really where can I use it at that speeds?! So playability is where I am at on this project. I will update this accordingly, I may get a cooler, put IC Diamond compound on the parts, and ThrottleStop it. These cards can run good around 70-75c without much problems. Update your findings here as well!
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Nando asked me to make a thread after I got my eGPU working so here it is. I'll be updating it later with pictures and more info, including more benchmarks. Components 15" Lenovo W530 (Nvidia Quadro K1000m, Intel HD 4000, i7 3740qm 2.7Ghz) PE4L-EC060A 2.1b Expresscard-to-PCIe adapter Sapphire HD 7950 video card @x1 2.0 (Gen2) expresscard bandwidth Corsair CX600 as a PSU cheap Rosewill Mini ATX case as an enclosure Win8/64-bit/Win7/64-bit (Dual boot, works with both) Installation Win8: The software part was a pain but I figured it out so you don't have to. After getting all the hardware working, I went into device manager and disabled the Quadro GPU. I then rebooted, and plugged in the 7950 while the laptop was off. I made sure that Windows didn't automatically install drivers for it. Then I downloaded the latest WHQL drivers for my card, rebooted, opened device manager and disabled the Intel HD4000 graphics. To switch back to either iGPU or dGPU, turn off laptop, unplug 7950, reboot and open device manager. Enable either dGPU or iGPU.You may have to go into BIOS and choose which GPU to use. (I need the Quadro for Solidworks when I'm not using my 7950, so that part is important.) Anyway, that's it. Win7: Same as above, except both GPUs need to be enabled at startup to work properly. An interesting note, on Win7 I can have my Nvidia dGPU running my laptop screen and my AMD eGPU running my external screen at the same time. On Win8 it's one or the other. Benchmarks My card is overclocked to 1150/1600, but I've only run a few benchmarks. Metro LL scores me at 37.4 fps average. For comparison, I saw that similarly overclocked 7950's scored about 40 fps average in a desktop, so performance loss is not as much as I thought it would be. These benches had two purposes, one for the info, and two, to show me that my overclock is 100% stable. Overall I must say, I'm very pleased with performance. I saw some of my scores around those of 680 eGPUs. Summary for comparison against existing implementations being: DX9: 3dmark06=22138 DX10: 3dmkvantage.gpu=28265 DX11: 3dmk11.gpu=8753 DirectX9 DirectX10 DirectX11 Metro:LL benchmark Unigine Heaven 4.0 Here is a screenshot of somebody else's 7950 at the exact same clocks that ran the same benchmark (Heaven 4.0 DX11 maxxed). My score was lower, it was exactly 82.6% of the performance as the desktop counterpart. This goes to show that bandwidth benchmark is about what was expected (~80%, I'm sure more tests would show a bit more variance). GPUZ screenshot showing my overclock, max temps, etc. I actually overloaded my PSU on that run, it's a CX600 with only 46A on the 12v rail but when gaming it doesn't exceed 45A Pictures This is my setup A closer look inside PE4L 2.1b
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For those who don't like the restrictions Lenovo put on their system, here's a BIOS mod that will get you back at least some of the freedom you should have over your own hardware. Features: WLAN card whitelist removed, any (hardware-wise compatible) card should now work hidden BIOS menus unlocked VBIOS tweaked for more performance and better tuning possibilities Keep in mind that not necessarily all of the BIOS options available with this mod will be fully functional, so use the new available settings with care. If you're unsure about something don't change it and ask here, someone might be able to help. Available for v1.07 / v1.09 / v1.10 and v3.05. v2.04 and v2.07 added (only whitelist removal as for now) If you have a different BIOS (or more specific, a BIOS newer than 3.05) I will need a copy of it in order to make it work for your system. Instructions for flashing the modified BIOS v3.05: You need a USB stick prepared to run DOS, here is a guide you can follow in case you don't know how to do this: Guide by @StamatisX - thanks! >>> Before continuing make sure the AC adapter is connected to your laptop and your battery has at least 20% charge remaining. <<< (0) - NOTE: This step is Only necessary if your system isn't already using BIOS v3.05 Update to the official v3.05 BIOS provided by Lenovo . (1) - Create a backup of your own BIOS (now v3.05) by using Fptw64 tool. Extract the files and run the included .bat file from an admin command prompt. . (2) - Download Lenovo_Y510p-Y410p_[v3.05]_modified.zip and put the files of folder [1] to the root of your prepared USB DOS stick. Let the BiosFixer prepare your BIOS for flashing by drag and dropping your backup file on it. Put the created "v305mod.bin" file to the root of your USB DOS drive as well. . (3) - Now you need to downgrade the firmware back to v2.07 (Y510p-Y410p_v207_[stock].zip) in order to flash the mod. . (4) - Boot from your USB DOS drive, when you see the command prompt type BIOS and hit enter. Wait until the BIOS is flashed (you can safely ignore warnings about non-existing regions). . (5) - Once the BIOS flash completed with no errors, type EC and hit enter. Wait until the EC is flashed. Then reboot. . (6) - Go to the BIOS setup menu, load the default settings, apply and reboot. Done. In case you're using an ultra bay GPU follow the instructions in post #2 and flash the vbios.. NOTE: It's crucial that you flash both, BIOS and EC. Having different EC and BIOS versions can in certain situations lead to issues. IMPORTANT: If you want to go back to stock v3.05 you can do that easily by simply using the official update from Lenovo. That's it, nothing additional required in this case. Old instructions for users with v1.07 / v1.09 / v1.10 or v2.04 / v2.07 who for some reasons don't want to update to v3.05: Video walk-through of bios settings (thanks @allstone): My donation link in case you want to buy me a beer Download link for files referenced in this post:
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Hi all; I'm having some strange problems when booting up my Lenovo Y500 past two days. When I power up the device, screen doesn't turn on as it was before. One way that I able to use the computer is closing the top cover and re-opening it. But before doing this I need to wait around twentyfive seconds until the system boots. If I'm a bit quick and do this top cover trick before the lockscreen appears ( of corse I need to guess every time ) the screen turns on but there is no video on it. This way the screen turns on and everything is normal until I reboot or shotdown the device. For a good understanding I have taken a short video to explane the situation... Edit: Please take a look what I have found last night. Is this the screen cable ? Correct me if I wrong but I'm clearly sure that this thing doesn't have to seen from there... Is there any possibility that these are some kind of hardware problem, not the software one ? I really need your help bros, thanks in advance... ( I'm sorry about my English, thanks for reading )
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Hello everybody, Today i will show You how to mount 3rd antenna to Lenovo y580. The new antenna came from LENOVO G550. I took shorter one (black one). Oryginally it was placed on display panel next to the camera. Look like that: I was trying three different places. 1st place was a TV card slot. The long cable was convoluted and placed over the antenna. 2nd place was black plastic below heatpipe, and over RAM. But i can not close the back cover so i resigned of that place. 3rd place was a left speaker. To take off the keyboard you have to unscrew 3 screws. Then you have to undermine the three hooks. I used a driver's license because it is lean and hard, respectively. Take a look at "Lenovo Y480/580 Hardware Maintenance Manual" on this post (end of 1st post): LINK page 46. You need to remove the three screws instead of two do not read page 45. Then you have to remove keyboard bezel. Use the same manual as above but page 48 to 50. Then, stick the double-sided tape antenna. Take a look at images. I have done some speed tests. My router: ASUS RT-N66u My PC 1: SSD 128GB, Gigabit LAN My PC 2: Lenovo Y580 SSD 128GB, WiFi 5GHz, WiFi card 3rd location Intel 6200: Max Download from PC1 to PC2 = 100Mbit/s Intel 6200: Max Download from PC2 to PC1 = 100Mbit/s Intel 6300: Max Download from PC1 to PC2 = 135Mbit/s Intel 6300: Max Download from PC2 to PC1 = 135Mbit/s I have done some performence tests. 1st place - very large disturbance, unstable connection, avg speed 80Mbit/s 2nd place - very large disturbance, unstable connection, avg speed 90Mbit/s 3rd place - no disturbance, stable connection, avg speed 135Mbit/s
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This is continuation of this thread (http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/2690-lenovo-y500-unlocked-bios.html) with all the necessary information in the first post in order to make it easier to find all the stuff. Lenovo Y400 / Y500 - 'unlocked' BIOS / wwan-wlan whitelist removal + modified VBIOS for higher overclocking The Lenovo Y500 comes with a pretty locked down BIOS, and in addition to this with a whitelist which prevents the user from getting 3rd-party wwan/wlan cards to work properly. The modified BIOS versions here will take care of this. Keep in mind that not necessarily all options available in the modified bios will work. Some might not do anything at all, others could possibly leave your system in a state which will prevent it from booting. Use care when changing stuff in the modified bios, don't touch things you're not familiar with. Use all the mods and software posted here on your own risk. Read the instructions carefully. NOTE: This will only flash the bios region. It won't reset the nvars set in the bios. *************** ONLY FLASH A MOD OF THE SAME VERSION AS YOUR CURRENT BIOS VERSION!!! If you're on 2.02 or 2.03 you can safely use the 2.04 update, *************** Attached you'll find modified versions of the Y400 / Y500 BIOS v1.03 and v1.05. Removed as they're outdated. Better updated to v2.02. The bios contains your Windows 8 license, therefore you can't just flash any file, else you'll have issue with your Windows activation. Furthermore the serial numbers, service tags etc. are stored there as well. You don't want to loose them. I wrote a little program that will take care of this issue and personalize the modified bios for you, so that you won't end up with an invalid Windows or no service tags. *************** Preparation to get to BIOS v2.02 (coming from any earlier version): Generally it's a good idea to keep the BIOS up to date. We're luck to have an official BIOS update to v2.02 apparently thanks to a leak on the net. (Lenovo is really bad when it comes to providing firmware updates and fixing issues). The leaked version must be genuine, else it wouldn't flash by using the regular method. If you want to update your system to v2.02 then grab the update here, extract it and flash the bios by executing the included InsydeFlash utility. Once the update is completed you can continue with the instructions below to get a modified version on your system. *************** Instructions for flashing a modified version: As a reminder - the modified BIOS needs to be the same version as you have on your system (2.02 to 2.04 is ok). Prepare an USB stick which can boot DOS. If you don't know how to do this, follow this short guide: Download the flash tool, for flashing you'll need the DOS version, but for creating the backup of your current BIOS the Win64 version will do as well, and it is faster. Get the prr tool as well. Grab the modified BIOS you want to flash, it comes as a tool which will patch the bios for you. Make sure you grab the version that corresponds with your BIOS version. Create a backup of your current BIOS using the flash tool you downloaded (first step) by runing the included backup.bat, or by using the Win or Dos version flash tool with this command: If the .bat doesn't work then open an administrator command prompt in your working directory and run the .bat per command line or type the command written above. In case you get an 'error 104' replace the parts file with the one that can be found in the 'error 104 fix' attachment at the end of the post. And if you still have issues after doing all of the steps above then please leave a reply in the thread and describe your problem. Open the downloaded tool and execute it. Drag and drop your BIOS backup file on it, it will create the mod for you. It will look like this: Put the modified BIOS, the prr.exe tool and the fpt.exe (along with the fparts.txt file) on the root of your prepared DOS bootable USB drive, restart your system and boot from that drive. Execute the prr.exe, if you don't get an error message continue by pressing enter. Then flash the bios by using this command (filename.bin obviously needs to be replaced with the name of the file you want to flash). If you can't remember the name of your file, use the command dir to display all the files on your drive. Flash with this: fpt.exe -f filename.bin -bios NOTE: The name of the BIOS file mustn't exceed eight characters (not counting the extension)! That's a DOS limit, so make sure the name of your file isn't too long. Wait until the process is done. After flashing it will verify the data, in case there's something wrong with the flashed data it will tell you. In that case don't reboot, just flash again. *************** Flashing the ultra bay 650m - only for SLI users with BIOS v2.02: The modified BIOS v2.02 also contains a vbios which will allow you to overclock your 650m past the 135MHz limit. As the ultra bay GPU has it's own vbios module you need to flash it separately. You'll need an USB drive which can boot DOS (just as the one you used for flashing the BIOS). *************** It might look a bit complicated at first, but that's the easiest way I could think of. Let me know if anything is unclear. >> Here's the 'buy me a beer' link in case you like this << Use at your own risk, you are responsible for your system and the changes you make on it. My programs come with absolutely no warranty to the extent permitted by applicable law. Grab file archive here:
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I followed the youtube video Lenovo Y400 Y500 Full Disassembly - YouTube. However, the video was probably created with a prototype y500 because some of the layout of the laptop did not match mine. Most noticeably is that there are *three* screws holding the keyboard down not *two*, I almost ripped the keyboard trying to pull it off with one screw still in there. Also, a few of the ribbons are located in different places which I think is an improvement over the y500 in the video. Finally, the hardest part of the entire process was to remove the back cover because it is held on by plastic tabs facing in different directions so the best way is to wiggle it left and right while lifting and not lift directly up. That is just regular white thermal paste on the heatsinks. The OEM thermal paste resembled AS5 in color and thickness and I recommend that it be left alone if the temperatures are good. I have since replaced the cheap stuff I put on there with AS5 and still have not seen the temperatures I saw when it was stock (still 3-5C higher). Here is what I did to stop the twitchy touchpad (issue is well documented in the Lenovo support forum) and the random extra characters the keyboard would add while typing (less known issue).
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Does anyone have this thing working?
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Lenovo Y500 - 'unlocked' BIOS / wwan-wlan whitelist removal The Lenovo Y580 / Y480 comes with a pretty locked down BIOS, and in addition to this with a whitelist which prevents the user from getting 3rd-party wwan/wlan cards to work properly. The modified BIOS versions here will take care of this. Keep in mind that not necessarily all options available in the modified bios will work. Some might not do anything at all, others could possibly leave your system in a state which will prevent it from booting. Use care when changing stuff in the modified bios, don't touch things you're not familiar with. Use all the mods and software posted here on your own risk. NOTE: This will only flash the bios region. It won't reset the nvars set in the bios. While it is technically possible to update from v2.0x to v8.01 by using the method described below, I can't really recommend it since the EC of your system won't get updated. While it might work (possibly even without any issues) I can't recommend it. Therefore if you're on v2.0x and want to update, the better option is to wait until Lenovo provides an official 8.xx firmware update with EC and BIOS. You can then still flash the modified version as described below, once you're on a proper v8.xx firmware. Attached you'll find a modified version of the Y580 / Y480 BIOS v8.01 (5DCN90WW). ----------------------------------------- >> For users with a v2.0x BIOS: << Download links Old version: Current 2.0x version: Lenovo Y580 / Y480 BIOS v2.07 (5DCN40WW) -> unlocked, whitelist removed, Nvidia 660m @ 1GHz default 3d clocks Flash with the included InsydeFlash utility. ----------------------------------------- >> Instructions for v8.0x BIOS users: << The attached BIOS ("Lenovo Y580 - Y480 BIOS v8.01 (5DCN90WW) - Mod") is unlocked, whitelist stuff removed and the 660m is tweaked to 1GHz default 3d core clock. The only way I know of which allows you to flash the modified BIOS for v8.01 users does unfortunately also describe certain information which you don't want to loose (serials, Windows licencse etc.). Don't worry, I got it all sorted out, but due to this the flashing procedure is a bit more complicated than usual. Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. Download the flash tool, for flashing you'll need the DOS version, but for creating the backup of your current BIOS the Win64 version will do as well, and it is faster. Get the prr tool as well. Grab the modified BIOS you want to flash and the Y580-Y480_BiosFix tool. Create a backup of your current BIOS using the flash tool you downloaded (first step) by runing the included backup.bat, or by using the Win or Dos version flash tool with this command: -d BackupBiosY500.bin -bios If you get and 'Error 104', grab 'Error 104' fix and replace the original fparts file with it. . Make sure you have the modified bios which you want to flash, the bios backup you just created and the "Y580-Y480_BiosFix" tool in the same folder. Run the Y580-Y480_BiosFix tool, follow the instructions on the screen. Enter the name of the files correctly, else you'll get an error. It will create a new file for you and will be named after the modified bios file you specified, with 'Fix' appended to it. Here's a screenshot of the tool in use (Y580 version looks the same). In the case shown here it will create a file called "modifiedBiosFix.bin" which you can find in the folder where you run the tool. Use that one for flashing. Put the fixed BIOS, the prr.exe tool and the fpt.exe (along with the fparts.txt file) on the root of your prepared DOS bootable USB drive, restart your system and boot from that drive. Execut the prr.exe, if you don't get an error message continue by pressing enter. Then flash the bios by using this command (filename.bin obviously needs to be replaced with the name of the file you want to flash). If you can't remember the name of your file, use the command dir to display all the files on your drive. Flash with this: fpt.exe -f filename.bin -bios NOTE: The name of the BIOS file mustn't exceed eight characters (not counting the extension)! That's a DOS limit, so make sure the name of your file isn't too long. Wait until the process is done. After flashing it will verify the data, in case there's something wrong with the flashed data it will tell you. In that case don't reboot, just flash again. It might look a bit complicated at first, but that's the easiest way I could think of. Let me know if anything is unclear. The attached v8.0x modified versions include: - unlocked menus - whitelist removed (wwan / wlan) - Nvidia 660m 'GHz edition' - 1000MHz default 3d clocks >> Here's the 'buy me a beer' link in case you like this. Modding makes me thirsty << Use at your own risk, you are responsible for your system and the changes you make on it. My programs come with absolutely no warranty to the extend permitted by applicable law. Thanks @X0pas1 for testing, and for some pics - see below: I'd appreciate it if someone could also post some pictures of the more interesting sub-menus, e.g. advanced CPU control, video settings and similar. UPDATE 1/17/16 DOWNLOAD LINK FOR FILES REFERENCED IN THIS POST:
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Hi, I been playing alot of Dead Island Recently. I made a mini review/gameplay video, here it is.
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