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EwinRacing Flash Series Gaming Chairs


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About iamtuck3r

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  • Birthday 01/23/1990
  1. I'm just trying to be helpful and instructive, first off, the .bat file explaination wasn't even meant for you it was for a different post. Second, I can't help you out very well if I don't have descriptions and processes that you took to flash the BIOS. I don't even have or have even laid my hands on a GTX 670M and I'm going off of pure experience and computer know how, just caaaaalm down lol.
  2. Quite honestly I've owned mostly ATI cards my whole life. I dooo like the Nvid's but they are a bit pricier. As of right now I have a 7950 with a 7970 BIOS flashed on it. Works awesome. Mine is the Sapphire Dual-X 7950, and under full load with fans at 100% it doesn't even touch 55C which is pretty impressive. Many people complain about hiccups in performance but I have yet to see mine randomly hiccup unless is my old processor being bogged down lol. Do some research, watch some benchmark vid's, I can assure you that if there's an Nvidia card out there, there's an ATI card that costs less and can overclock to that level
  3. iamtuck3r

    New g75vw issue..

    If your BIOS has safe boot you will first have to disable that. Second is to enable legacy boot, or in Asus' case i think it's like PXoE or something. Dug this up from a different forums: - Enter the BIOS setup menu by pressing and holding F2 key when powering on. - Switch to "Boot" and set “Launch CSM” to Enabled. - Switch to "Security" and set "Secure Boot Control" to Disabled. - Press F10 to save and exit. - Press and hold ESC key to lunch boot menu when the notebook restarts. Source: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?26826-Windows-8-Automatic-Repair-Loop-%28G75%29&
  4. iamtuck3r

    Asus Covers

    I just use screen cleaner to clean the rubber surfaces. It's deionized and contains no harmful chemicals that will eat away at your rubber / plastics. Turtle wax wouldn't go well with it. It's literally a wax that will harden when it's mixed with the air. The purpose of wax is to fill in very very tiny scratches and imperfections leaving you with a very clear and shiny coat...on a car. Rubber won't react as well and you'll just be left with a mess lol
  5. If the .bat file isn't working for you, right click on the .bat file, click Edit, and type the contents of that file into command prompt. You will have to make the directory that the BIOS and such are in to your default directory by using the "CD" command (change directory). Example. cd C:\Users\Tucker\Desktop\Modded Bios vovan10baran: Are you sure you aren't looking at clocks for the 670m? This BIOS works for that card as well.
  6. Yeah, obviously the voltage on the positive wire would go up since the fan is spinning faster, however the PWM is going up as well so that means a resistor would only lower that, causing the fan to spin less. Let's say if the PWM read the opposite we could put a resistor on it and lower the PWM, in essence, increasing the fan speed. Unfortunately that's not the case. But hey, at least your temps are somewhat controllable now which is more than ya started with
  7. Very nice, fan wouldn't be the issue if your temps went down that much with just it's position. Glad ya figured it out! I was sorta hoping it wouldn't be the fan just because doing that mod I was talking about would be a reaaaal pain lol Really the last thing you could try is just taking the RPM pin out of the connector and seeing if the fan will default at 100%, that'll be about the maximum amount of cooling you'd be able to get without actually modding the case or anything like that.
  8. I'd use just a standard resistor, I just thought of this but if you put a thermistor in-line with another one obviously it wouldn't work out very well lol. You'll have to find a standard resistor. But that in itself presents another problem, if the fan controller reads that the temperature is hotter because the current is going UP we will have the exact opposite effect. You would literally need to boost the voltage to the fan controller to have the desired effect lol. Like I said, its a crazy situation. You'll have to take a multimeter to the fan leads and investigate. Basically, you'll have the computer at idle temps. Take a reading there and write down the voltage and the current. Next put a load on it to heat it up and take another measurement. If the fan speed goes up and the voltage from the PWM goes down then you're in the clear, if it's the opposite then a resistor won't do the trick. Now there's two ways you will have to use the multimeter to get both current and voltage measurements. The first is the easiest which is measuring the voltage. All you have to do is put the positive lead on the PWM wire and the negative lead on the negative wire (black). Read the voltage, then heat it up and repeat. To measure the current however you will have to basically insert the multimeter so that it is in series with the fan. You'll have to disconnect the PWM wire attatch that to the positive probe on the multimeter, then take the multimeter's negative probe and put it on the lead where the PWM connected to.
  9. If you saw the BIOS options that weren't there before then the BIOS is in place. I would power cycle it, remove the battery and A/C adapter, hold power in for 30 seconds, then boot it up again. You don't have direct access through the BIOS to overclock it, you will need a utility like Nvidia Inspector to modify the timing's within the OS. Basically it's an unlocked BIOS, but just because it's unlocked won't make overclocking magically appear you have to use an overclocking utility to talk to the BIOS for you. Before it's even overclocked though you should see a difference when benchmarking. You will have to be using the GPU in a high power state though to see the reflected differences in any monitoring tools like HWmonitor. Just like in any laptop, the graphics clocks will scale down with how much demand there is for it. Run a benchmark like Uniengine's Heaven, it'll show you the exact clock speeds while benchmarking and you can go from there. Downloads | techPowerUp Above is a link to a whole plethora of benchmark utilities, all of them are free. Like I said I would use the Uniengine benchmarks, they will reflect your clocks accurately while benchmarking.
  10. It all depends on how the motherboard reports the temperatures. Basically what you have is called a thermistor. It's a small device that will heighten or lower the resistance depending on how hot/cold it is. You'd have to get a gold rated thermistor which means it's precise to +/- 1% of its rated value. Thermistors can go either way though. You can have thermistors lower OR strengthen its resistance value according to the temps. It's set up so you have a temperature, the thermistor adjusts its value, that electrical value is then measured by the motherboards fan controller. That fan controller THEN adjusts the fan speed according to the voltage output of that thermistor. If you have a 4 pin fan then that fan's reporting the temp's through the PWM wire, and then registering the fan speed through the yellow wire and adjusting accordingly That's where it gets tricky because the fan controller might use increasing voltages from the thermistor to either heighten or lower the fan speed and vice versa. There is also ANOTHER setup where the fan speed is completely dictated by the fan itself (most commonly 4 pin fans but uncommon in most computers today). It's really a giant confusing mess. What I would do is find a power supply that matches the fan's maximum safe voltage. Use the current(I) equation, I=V/R, to find out how big your resistor needs to be to limit the current going through the fan, then see if it spins up for half a crap. Quite literally the fan's board could be faulty and that's why it's not reporting to the motherboard or adjusting the fan's speed. Another thing you might want to take into account is that I actually have a fan here that reports that it's spinning at 4k RPMS, but it's actually spinning 1/2 to 1/3 of that. Hope that offers a better explanation at what I'm getting at
  11. Hey guys, after I got my hands on svl7's modified vBIOS, I've basically got it overclocked with what I can do. I noticed the fan isn't spinning up 100% even at temps above 70C and I was wondering, "Hmmm, how can I address this?" So after a little bit of thought I took a look inside the computer. The fans have 4 cables running to them red is positive, black is negative, blue is pwm, and yellow is the fan's rpm's. I figured, "Hmm what if I just took that little blue wire out, put some electrical tape around it and just left it out of the molex connector that hooks up to the motherboard?" Welp, the fans sure do spin up, they are a little on the louder side at 100% but it doesn't bother me at all. That just means a cooler cpu and gpu Apparently you can take out the pwm wire and the fan will default at 100%, basically as a built in failsafe. Since the one thing that svl7's vbios lacked was fan control (which is, alas, not possible in the vbios at all) I took the more manual approach. The good things about it are 1) It lowered my cpu temps by 10C and my gpu temps by 7C during benchmarking, which means a little more over clocking room for me as long as the voltage is ample to handle it. 2) I didn't have to cut any cables, trim or solder any wires, all I did was loosen the wire from its connector, which means no physical damage to the computer. And 3) It finally utilizes the awesome cooling potential this laptop has built into it to its fullest extent. PS: This mod will ruin your warranty a billion times over. Good thing about it, you can just connect the wire back up and it's like nothing was ever messed with at all I've attached a picture of the fan and the blue wire if you wish to do this yourself. Also, I attached a PDF that shows how to properly disassemble the laptop! Happy over clocking EDIT: Also, an explanation for how to disconnect the wire without damaging anything. You will need a very small flathead screwdriver, but on the side of the molex connector, you will see 4 little tabs, those tabs are holding the wires in place. Once you lift that tab up (BE CAREFUL), just tug a little on the wire and it should pop right out! Easy as that! Also,make sure to cover the end in electrical tape. Don't want that floating around in your laptop and shorting something out. Also, make sure its secured and wont move around. I just covered the end, then taped the end to the bezel of the fan. Kept it in place and no shorting stuff out G75 series Service Guide.pdf
  12. Have you tried just searching for a different fan? Maybe possibly even though the motors spinning up it just doesn't have enough pressure to get the air out on its way. I'd look for a fan replacement or an after market fan. You could also just pull out the temp wire from the fan and see what speed it runs when the computer is on. If you pull that temp pin from the fan's connector, plug the fan back in, and that fan isn't spinning like crazy you could have a bad fan motor...or at least going bad. That's if you have 3 wires to the fan at least. Another thing that's making me think it's an F'd up fan is because you said the PC wasn't recognizing the fan anymore. I'd at least take that fan out and hook it up to a power supply with a resistor and see if it spins up for half a crap or not. Might not need to do all this plastic surgery, lol no pun intended.
  13. We need more information though. What's going on? What steps did you follow. "Not working" doesn't help me solve the issue lol
  14. Yeah, given plenty of experiences from Newegg, it's definitely worth building your own custom pc. First off, you know the ins and outs, what you have, what its limits are, and certainly what you can accomplish with it. Second, you can cater your pc to how you like it configured. This is my process for when I'm building a PC, it's pretty universal and it starts with logical sense and works towards the extras. First start with your MOBO, your mobo is going to be the link of everything. This is the centerpiece of your computer and what your computer will lack starts all from the motherboard. Next comes the CPU. This is pretty important as well. Just because gaming doesn't use too much CPU power doesn't mean you won't use it. I have an i7 in my laptop and it's the best choice I've ever made. Your CPU use will come out of gaming, compiling pictures and or video (ex. Final Cut etc.), compressing and uncompressing files. Compare it to your motherboard to make sure the socket fits and it's a compatible match. Next I go with RAM. Now as many people have 16-32GB, I don't even use 6GB out of my 16GB of RAM in my laptop most of the time unless I'm doing something crazy. If anything I'd go with 16, any more and it's really a waste unless you plan on using a "ramdisk" program, basically a program that will convert unused RAM space into a logical drive for stupid fast loading. After that I'll move to my graphics card. This is where I'd go wild You know what it does and how it works, make sure you check the motherboard slots and check for slot drops when using crossfire or sli. Basically what I mean is if you added another card later, you don't want your setup to show "Nvidia GTX690 @ PCIe 3.0 x 16, Nvidia GTX690 @PCIe 3.0 x 4." Unfortunately most motherboards will do this :/ Next is the HDD. I would highly recommend going with a SSD, I thought it was expensive and worthless before I owned one, but now that I have one in my laptop I will never load any OS of mine on a standard HDD again. It's too blazing fast and reliable for me to think otherwise. You don't have to get anything absolutely huge, 120GB will be fine. It's basically used for loading your OS and any startup programs you have really really fast. Keep in mind, the snappyness of the OS and it's programs will depend on your CPU and HDD, and also, you're building a $2400 pc...you just have to get a SSD lol. However, the sheer cost of having large storage with SSD's is unfortunately still expensive at the moment, however, normal HDD's are the cheapest they've ever been. Pick up a 2TB 7200+RPM HDD and you'll be set for storage for your games, downloads, movies, music, etc. The next part is really just getting a list of what extras you want as well. BluRay and/or DVD drive, front panel I/O panels (ex. for extra USB 3.0 ports), extra expansion cards and such. Really just cater it to what you're doing. I don't really think a sound card is necessary, but if you're doing recording and such I would recommend it. Also, most mobo's come with integrated Gigabit, so a network card really isn't needed as well. (Which means you'll have plenty of room for a PCIe SSD lol) 3rd to last is the power supply. Why wait until so late to choose? You gotta add up all you have to make sure that you don't burn it out with all this stuff your jamming in your pc. One thing I would for sure look for is a "modular" powersupply. They will let you disconnect any wires that aren't needed so you don't have as much cable clutter (ex. floppy drive and most 4-pin molex connectors are pretty out of date, hardly anything use those anymore). Also, find a good power supply calculator, that will help you rack up an estimated total of how many watts you'll burn up. Remember this as well, the higher wattage your PSU compared to what your power output is will also give you greater life. (Ex. which car will live longer, the ford focus pulling a 2 ton trailer, or the Ford F350 pulling that same 2 ton trailer?) Make sure it has the minimum amount of connections to hook up all your stuff as well. I would say the case is second to last. The reason why I save it for close to last is because you need to case to fit the stuff, not the other way around (unless you are purposefully trying to build a midget PC that absolutely NEEDS to be a certain size). Why sacrifice your videocard because it's too long for the case? The most popular cases to go with are Mid-tower and Full-tower cases, keep in mind Full-tower cases have plenty of room but aren't LAN friendly. Make sure it has room for everything and also last but not least--- Fans/Cooling. This is for you to decide, I won't get too much into liquid cooling but it can rack up the cost quite a bit. Compression fittings alone will add up in price, not to mention radiators, tubing, a pump, fluid, reservoir, more fans, lights, etc. If you are unsure about liquid cooling I would build everything with air cooling to start off, you can build a pretty powerful air-cooled computer for $1000 let alone $2400. Liquid cooling will come in when you are trying to achieve those above average clock speeds / to make your computer just look like it's the shiznit. Other than that I hope people here don't criticize me too much But that's normally my way of systematically going through piece by piece to make sure I can build a system I'll be happy with for a long time to come! EDIT!!! One last thing, when looking for a case, I would recommend a case that has good cable management. I have the Corsair 650D, it may seem expensive for a case, but it's by far the best case I've ever used in my entire life. And plus, a cable managed case just looks so purrty :3
  15. Vsync will only sync up the frames to a maximum of your refresh rate. If your monitor's refresh rate is 60Hz then your max FPS will also be 60FPS. Vsync helps get rid of what's called horizontal tearing. It's designed to keep the frames matched up with your refresh rate to keep from the image splitting violently, resulting in what looks like 2 images spliced together to form 1. Turn vsync off to achieve higher FPS. I'm not sure if this is it or not, but it seems that since your whole GPU isn't being used it's down scaling the voltage to save battery life. Not sure about forced P0 option though.
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