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Nospheratu

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Everything posted by Nospheratu

  1. This modification involves going a step further than a straight ID chip swap between the 240W and the 330W. The reason I chose this method was, I did not want to perform the mod again in the rare case that the 330W died and I had to get a new one. In order to complete this mod, you will require the following items. 1. Dell 330W PSU (This PSU was built for the M18X and X51 product lines). Part Numbers: Y90RR / 5X3NX / F0K0N / XM3C3 / 331-2429 2. Dell 240W PSU (Either a Flextronix or Delta). Part numbers: PA-9E / J938H / Y044M / U896K / J211H / Y044M 3. Dell or HP standalone PSU cable/Connector. I used this as I wanted a right angle connector. 4. M17x/M18X Power Jack. I used this one. 5. Small PCB designed for a SOT-23 packaged chip. (If using the Flextronics 240W PSU). This seems like an ideal candidate. 6. Small housing (Optional depending on whether you would like to mod the ferrite choke housing) PSU DISASSEMBLY First we begin with the disassembly of the 240W PSU to retrieve the ID chip for our adapter. Since I had the Flextronics version some of these steps might not be the same for the Delta PSU. We start by lifting up the rubber feet on the bottom of the 240W using your nail or a flat tool. Underneath each rubber foot you will find a screw which you can go ahead and unscrew. One of the screws will be a tamper-resistant Torx T10 type, the difference to a normal Torx T10 being a small pin the centre so you would have to use a Torx screwdriver with a hole in the center. TIP: If you do not have this tamper-resistant screwdriver you can use a normal Torx T10 screwdriver but you will have to hammer down the pin at the centre of the screw slightly in order to get the normal T10 screwdriver to grip. Once you have removed all screws you will have to pry open the casing. I stuck a thin knife between the power plug and the casing to gently pry it open. The top half and bottom half of the casing are held together by interlocking clips. Twist the case a bit to get them to unclip. Then remove the PSU from the case. You will then be presented with the first metal layer which is held on by tape. Cut the tape and slide out the first metal layer. You will then see the second metal layer which is held in place by 3 points soldered onto the PSU PCB. It is indicated in the picture below. Desolder all 3 points and remove the second metal layer. The last layer is black and seems to be a type of flexible hard plastic. It will be stuck in place by white thermal stuff on the PCB, simply lift it and peel it away. Depending on whether you have a Flextronics or Delta PSU your ID chip will look different. Desolder this chip and keep it in a safe place (If you lose it, you have to buy a new 240W PSU). On the Flextronix PSU the chip is also stuck in place apart from being soldered on, so you have to work quickly heating the solder and pushing the chip away with a bit of force. To reassemble the PSU reverse the above steps. You can still use this PSU connected to the adapter with your M17X so it won't be collecting dust. THE ADAPTER MOD You will have to decide on whether you want to mod the ferrite choke housing into your enclosure or use a dedicated enclosure (small as possible as this circuit is tiny). If you are using a dedicated enclosure jump straight to the labelled wire photo to continue. If you would like to mod the ferrite choke housing continue reading. I did not take sufficient pictures during this portion as I was unsure if the ferrite choke housing would work. The rubber around the ferrite choke and the connector that I purchased was soft and very flexible which made it easy to work with. I used a knife and pressed against the rubber of the ferrite choke housing for a clean cut so that I could glue it back together. I cut off one end and then length ways along either seam of the housing making sure to leave a bit of extra cable. Here is a picture of what we’re trying to achieve with the cutting. You will then see the ferrite choke which you can crack with a hammer. Remove the pieces (be careful as they will be very sharp). Then the cut off the cable strain relief that's covering the cable with small wire snips. You will then see the cable which you can strip to positive, negative and the ID line. You will then need to connect those wires to the power jack. The two pins at the top are negative. The two pins at the back forming the shape of a U are positive and the pin at the back in the centre is the ID line. Solder the positive wire to positive pin and negative wire to negative pins as shown in the image below. The negative wire can be soldered to the negative pins and simultaneously joining the ID pin on the jack. The reason behind joining the ID pin to the negative pins on the jack is because we need to ground the ID line coming from the 330W in order for it to operate beyond its artificial 240W limit. Now all that’s left to do is connect the ID chip. If you have the Flextronics PSU the ID chip will be in a SOT-23 package and the Delta ID chip will be in a TO-92 package. The Flextronics SOT-23 package is difficult to work with and should be first soldered to a bit of PCB that had a SOT-23 package so that you do not break the legs off. I initially soldered the wires directly to the legs and moving it about in my "enclosure" to find the best spot to place it was too much stress on the chips tiny legs and they broke off... yes, all of them. Luckily I could still see a tiny bit of metal from each of the legs. I managed to salvage it by soldering it to a piece of PCB that I jacked from a broken mouse which had SOT-23 connections. The blue ID wire coming from the cable needs to be soldered to the data leg of the ID chip. Connect the remaining two pins from the ID Chip together and then to the negative connection on the PSU jack. Dont judge my pathetic soldering skills! Place your ID chip into the enclosure and test the adapter to make sure all your connections have proper contact. If it’s working properly you can close it up. I considered flooding the enclosure with silicone to secure the ID chip and its connections but I did not, as I thought it would be more work if one of the connections broke and I had to open it up again. You can do it if you like. I used a drill to make the hole at the centre of the disc large enough for the 330W connector tip fit through. I then stuck the enclosure back together using superglue along the sides and then attaching the disc. Add a bit of glue to the disc/jack so that the disc and jack are stuck together as well. This is so that the jack does not move when plugging the PSU connector tip in. THE COMPLETED MOD Pros/Cons over the ID Chip swap Mod Pros - Allows you to use any PSU irrespective of wattage as long as the connector tip is compatible with the power jack. - If the 330W PSU dies all you have to do is plug a new one in. No need to perform the mod on a new 330W. - No need to open up the 330W at all. - Your ID chip donor 240W PSU can still be used with your M17X by attaching this adapter. Cons - Allows you to use any PSU irrespective of wattage as long as the connector tip is compatible with the power jack (Could be dangerous with low wattage PSU's). - A lot more work compared to swapping the chips. Notes: I also had to trim a bit of rubber at the right angle connector for the cable I used as it’s a bit of a tight fit if you don't. The rubber around the connector did get a warm at the right angle after testing but it's being blasted by the heat of the CPU fan continuously so I don't think it’s the connector itself that's causing it. These cables are very short and should be able to handle the power easily. Since there are two positive terminals you will have to either split the positive wire coming from the PSU connector to each pin or join both pins (bend one pin over to the other and solder them together making sure to place an insulator to cover the ID pin) and solder the positive wire to a single point. Also worth noting is that this adapter mimics the original 240W adapter perfectly. So if you experienced the "plugged in, not charging" issue when connected this adapter will not resolve it (I still have to pop the battery and clip it back in to resolve). Credits: @imsolidstate, without his in-depth investigation this would have not been possible. His website detailing his investigation and the ID chip transplant can be found here and the subsequent update here. DISCLAIMER: Perform this modification at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused by technical error, user inexperience or stupidity.
  2. I've recreated the OSD Icons for the R1/R2/R3/R4 and R5 aka 17 as the standard ones are a bit dated. It should also work with the M15x though as my old M15x had the same setup for the OSD app. Regarding the R3 OSD, it seems its the same install for the M18x as well so it should work for you M18x owners too. I've also added the AW 17 OSD to the list. This exe is also compatible with the 14 and 18 as Dell uses the same OSD for all the new machines. There's also a set for you Area-51 m17 R1 owners. I've tried to give it a simular feel to the Invader Icon pack by Alienware. Hope you guys like it Install Instructions for R1 1. You need to end the OSD process in Task Manager since it may be using some of these icon files. Ctrl+Shift+Esc then find the OSD process and end it. 2. Backup your current icons if you want to revert to the originals (You can also uninstall and re-install the OSD application if you want to go back to the original icons) 3. Extract the attached "M17X R1-R2 & M15X.zip" contents to C:\Program Files (x86)\OSD\picture\. Overwrite if prompted. 4. Restart the OSD application. It is located in C:\Program Files (x86)\OSD\Launch.exe 5. Done! Install Instructions for R2 /M15x 1. You need to end the OSD.exe process in Task Manager since it may be using some of these icon files. Ctrl+Shift+Esc then find "OSD.exe" and end the process. 2. Backup your current icons if you want to revert to the originals (You can also uninstall and re-install the OSD application if you want to go back to the original icons) 3. Extract the attached "M17X R1-R2 & M15X.zip" contents to C:\Program Files (x86)\OSD\ICONs\. Overwrite if prompted. 4. Restart the OSD application. It is located in C:\Program Files (x86)\OSD\Launch_OSD.exe 5. Done! Install instructions for R3 / R4 / M18x 1. You need to end the OSD process in Task Manager since it may be using some of these icon files. Ctrl+Shift+Esc then find the AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe process and end it. 2. Backup the existing AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe by renaming it to "AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe.BAK" for example. Its in C:\Program Files (x86)\Alienware On-Screen Display\ 3. Extract the AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe from the appropriately named file depending on your OS and model to the C:\Program Files (x86)\Alienware On-Screen Display\ folder. 4. Restart the OSD application by double-clicking the file. 5. Done! Install instructions for 14 / 17 / 18 ** 1. You need to end the OSD process in Task Manager since it may be using some of these icon files. Ctrl+Shift+Esc then find the AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe process and end it. 2. Backup the existing AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe by renaming it to "AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe.BAK" for example. Its in C:\Program Files (x86)\Alienware On-Screen Display\ 3. Extract the AlienwareOn-ScreenDisplay.exe from the "AW 14-17-18 (Windows 8).zip" file to the C:\Program Files (x86)\Alienware On-Screen Display\ folder. 4. Restart the OSD application by double-clicking the file. 5. Done! The Area-51 m17-R1 install should be similar to the steps for the other laptop revisions above. They all basically follow the same process anyway, apart from filenames/paths. @robby_hd was kind enough to make a red version of these icons for the M17x R3 / M18x R1 which can be downloaded from his post here. **There seems to be a security issue with Windows 8/8.1 at this point in time since it doesn't allow modified exe's. I will update this post with a solution once it has been found. Also a few Alienware owners are having an issue with the unmodified OSD and Windows 8. Only the default Windows 8 OSD displays and not the Alienware version. Try the solution posted by Dell here and then attempt installing the mod. The below screenprint is a workaround by editing the security policies to allow the unsigned exe to run in Windows 8. If you are not aware of what these settings do and the repercussions of changing them, please do not attempt it. - Open the Group Policy Editor by typing "gpedit.msc" in the search or run text box. - Duplicate the settings below. Area-51 m17-R1.zip M17X R1-R2 & M15X.zip M17X R3-R4 & M18X R1-R2 (Windows 7).zip M17x R4 & M18X R2 (Windows 8).zip AW 14-17-18 (Windows 8).zip M17X R4 & M18X R2 (Windows 8.1).zip
  3. Nospheratu

    M17x (All revisions) OSD Icons by Nospheratu

    Please read the forum rules.
  4. Spending a large amount of money on a high end system is a big decision. Choosing the right retailer to partner with to make the purchase is crucial especially if you're shopping internationally. There's a lot of trust involved. I can honestly say I trust HIDevolution wholeheartedly. This review is for my second purchase from them and it's been 6 years apart yet their customer service is still second to none. When everything goes smoothly it's easy to view a retailer in good light. It's only when things go wrong that the real calibre of a company is revealed and HIDevolution is a shining beacon in this sea of incompetent, unfeeling imposters that promote "good customer service". They treat your order as if it were their own personal purchase. Ted and his team fought Dell's robotic representatives for 3 months after receiving a DOA refurbished Alienware 17 R4. They kept me updated almost on a daily basis throughout this ordeal and managed to push for a brand new system replacement as well as a warranty extension. Would I make a purchase from Dell again after experiencing Dell's nonsensical and incompetent customer service? Yes I would, but only if it is through HIDevolution. It's comforting to know that as an HIDevolution customer you could be anywhere in the world and have someone in the US that cares about excellent customer service in your corner. Ted, I know I've said this numerous times before but THANK YOU. Thank you for providing international PC enthusiasts with HIDevolution's exceptional services. Your work ethic and communication is a benchmark that every company out there should aspire to.
  5. These modded vBIOS's are based on the Non-Enduro CLEVO 7970M vBIOS that was created for the CLEVO P270WM laptop. It's commonly referred to as the "RJTECH" vBIOS. The reason I created these were primarily for myself but also other M17x R2 users that were using CLEVO cards in their machines. This is the only proven safe vBIOS that doesn't damage our RGB screens. I also experienced a weird black screen with what looked like brightness on full after a few boots when using the Dell vBIOS from svl7's mod pack so I've been using the stock vBIOS ever since. This vBIOS should also work for the P170HM users as well (no HDMi though). There are two different sets in this pack. The first is for users who's cards voltage behaves normally, reporting the correct 1050v stock voltage. These are located in the "Normal" folder. The other set is for users like myself who's cards refuse to work at stock voltage and experience 3D voltage "stuck at 0.950v, 0.975v or 1.000v". These are located in the "Forced" folder. I have not adjusted any clocks as Overdrive is now enabled on all the modded vBIOS files included in the pack apart from the stock vBIOS in the root of folder. You may need to re-install your Catalysts in order for Overdrive to reflect correctly in CCC. You can then use it to set the clocks you prefer**. There are a few variations on 3D voltage ranging from 0.975v to 1.100v in 0.025v steps. Instructions: For flashing refer to svl7's guide: [GUIDE] AMD VBIOS flashing All the files have the same checksum which is 0xC200. You will have to rename them to an 8 character file name before flashing. Please make sure that the checksum of the file is correct using ATIflash before flashing. Flash at your own risk, you are responsible for your system and the changes you make on it. That said, I have tested these modded files on my machine and they work as intended. I would like to thank @svl7 for all his work. Without him, this vBIOS pack would not exist as I used his edited vBIOS files as a reference for creating these modded files. Thank you for creating the READ ME file as well that's included in this pack which I used as a template from your Dell vBIOS pack. I would also like to thank test2013, a Russian member on people.overclockers.ru who's guide helped me understand where the clocks are. Also kahboom, a member on overclock .net who's guide helped me understand where to find the voltage table and how to fix the checksums. And lastly @Aikei, thank you for your guide. It helped me understand more clearly how to fix the checksums. ** If you experience a delay from Overdrive setting your clocks at boot open Regedit and go to... HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE -> SOFTWARE -> Wow6432Node -> ATI -> ACE -> Backup -> Settings -> CLI There should be a "Delay" Key with a value of 300. Change the value to 0. This is applicable to Windows 7 x64. Clevo 7970M vBIOS - P270WM - Mod pack.zip
  6. Yes! sorry about that. Edited accordingly. You can purchase them from their online shop here. I purchased mine through a group buy organised by a few members on NBR but I'm sure someone can organize a group buy on T|I.
  7. Indium Heatspring. It's not a paste but it's the best TIM for laptops imho, as you never have to replace it and performance never degrades. Negatives are that it's not easy to purchase since its sold in bulk and is expensive. I'm using it on my CPU and GPU's and performance is still the same as the day I installed it (more than a year on my CPU).
  8. Nospheratu

    [vBIOS MOD] CLEVO 7970M vBIOS Pack (Non-Enduro)

    Your HDMi should work, it worked for me. I'm saying that when you do use it, it might be detected as you using your DisplayPort. But before you do that I would suggest you update your motherboard BIOS to the latest if you have not done so already. From what I understand the P370EM supports the 7970M Crossfire configuration officially so you shouldnt be having these issues. It would be interesting to note what your graphic cards are doing when you're running in Crossfire mode. You can open two instances of GPU-Z, one for each card and enable logging. Then play the game and exit and see what your cards are doing. It could be that for some reason your cards aren't really running in full 3D mode settings when in Crossfire.
  9. Nospheratu

    [vBIOS MOD] CLEVO 7970M vBIOS Pack (Non-Enduro)

    Sorry for the delay in response @ozi87. Welcome to T|I Yes you can, I have also tried P370EM vBIOS's on my machine that's why I think it will work fine (CLEVO 7970M v1.2 in CrossFire). However I think your Display Port and HDMi might be swapped around since this is based on the P270WM vBIOS. The P370EM is also Non-Enduro so you should not have any problems. Btw, 15.10 beta is out. You probably had a Dell vBIOS loaded on the card hence the force flash. It's normal to force flash between different vendors vBIOS versions. The "Subvendor: Dell" will always appear as GPU-Z read's your motherboard data to populate this field. I can understand it's misleading but flashing a vBIOS won't change this value since you have an Alienware M17x (Dell).
  10. Sorry for the delay in response @Gibbynator. This is a driver mod so it's highly unlikely it will help alleviate what seems to be vBIOS incompatibilities which I assume you are experiencing before getting into Windows. Some CLEVO 7970M users experienced white screen issues but it was resolved by using a specific vBIOS. I'm uncertain about the RAM, I haven't researched the upgrade as I dont really have use for more than 8GB at the moment. I do know most users that use 16GB on our machines are using Corsair Vengeance or Kingston HyperX. Bear in mind it will only run at 1333Mhz. If you are considering upgrading to gain gaming performance have a look at this article. Asking me for my opinion is going to get you a very biased answer since I still think this is an incredible laptop especially considering its age and feature set and I honestly dont know what I would replace it with if it ever had to die on me. That said, a lot of blood, sweat, tears, time and money is involved trying to keep it current. If you're not planning to install a 920/940XM and run Crossfire in the M17xR2 I would say upgrade to the most powerful single GPU laptop you can afford. Last I checked the 9X0XM's are going for around half your budget, so it might make more sense to purchase a proper single GPU laptop. Avoid the AMD CPU's though, they can hinder GPU performance.
  11. Yes the v1.1 I was referring to is the hardware revision. I would rather you purchase a Dell card than the v1.1 CLEVO. If you want more detailed information send a PM to TR2N on the notebookreview forums who is running a CLEVO 7970M v1.1 card in his M17x R2. The reason why these cards are still expensive is because the newer 8970M and R9 M290X are rebrands of the same chip used in the 7970M. I think you should get away with the 150W PSU if you running your CPU/GPU stock as they normally exceed their specs. What CPU are you using at the moment? the v1.1 is not plug and play like the v.1.2. There is a specific vBIOS you have to use and even then you get white screen with our RGB screens occasionally which can only be resolved by plugging in an external monitor. Again, contact TR2N from notebookreview forums for more detail. I would avoid the 8970M as theres not much M17x R2 users with it so troubleshooting will be an issue.
  12. Welcome to T|I steven The card that you mentioned seems to be a CLEVO card. With CLEVO cards and the M17X R2 only HDMi video works. HDMi audio does not work as the AMD HDMi Audio device is not detected. CLEVO cards have automatic fan control on our machines. The guide that you looked refers to Dell cards which are much more common and need HWinfo to control fans on the M17X R2. That said, I would avoid purchasing the v1.1 CLEVO card as that has other issues related to bluescreens when using the vBIOS that is compatible with the M17x R2 RGB screen. Try and find the v1.2 2G hardware version. Ask the seller if they have stock of the v1.2 version or are able to source it for you. There is no motherboard hack to get the fans working as far as I know and I doubt there is. Our machines are ancient now and as a result theres hardly any interest in new mods. As an example the unlocked A10 BIOS has been abandoned ages ago even though not all of the features work.
  13. Nospheratu

    [vBIOS MOD] CLEVO 7970M vBIOS Pack (Non-Enduro)

    Sorry for replying so late marc87us. It's been quite a while since I did these mods so I'm a bit rusty but I'll help where I can. Yes, to my knowledge Dell cards do not cause any issues to the RGB screen on our machines. Please bear in mind though, that a substantial amount of time has passed since the initial mod so newer revisions of the cards may have come out which could change things. Clevo cards do not have this limit. Actually theres very few Dell users reporting this as well apart from the initial reports, so its either the cards are running really cool or Dell has fixed it in a newer vBIOS or card revision. Again, I'm just thumb sucking. My cards only go above 80c on a very few games. Granted I havent played a new game in a while. Crysis 3 at 1200p, high settings and very high textures still stresses these cards to the point where my average temps are in the 80's. The last game I played was Metro LL and the cards never went over 80c. I hope this helps.
  14. As mentioned in the my PM, I do not know of anyone who sells modified 330W power supplies. I would suggest buying a normal Dell 330W and speaking to a local electrician to modify the PSU for you. You can show him the PSU modification guide so he knows exactly what to do. Any good electrician will be able to do it. It is possible as the ID chip is tiny but the ferrite choke is there for a reason to reduce interference. Do we really need it on a power cable? That I'm afraid I cannot say for certain as this is not my area of expertise. I left mine in place and used another cable as I mentioned in the guide.
  15. Nospheratu

    [vBIOS MOD] CLEVO 7970M vBIOS Pack (Non-Enduro)

    The vBIOS in the OP was built specifically for the CLEVO 7970M v1.2 card and to be used in a non-enduro laptop. Some users have reported success with Dell cards but that was with an M17xR2. I'm sorry i coudlnt be of more help.
  16. Dolby Home Theater v4 - M17x R2 and IDT High Definition Audio So I decided I needed a headset with a mic and I'm a sucker for matching peripherals so I set my sights on the TactX headset (Rebranded SteelSeries 5HV2). There's some pretty appalling reviews of it online but I have to try them out for myself. One of the "problem" areas is an apparent lack of bass since its tuned for FPS gaming. In preparation I figured I should get some sound enhancement software. I've been using the Dolby Home Theater v4 application on my HTPC with a Xonar DX soundcard and its very effective particularly with movies and it's volume leveler feature. All processing effects can be switched off for music by just switching profiles using a handy system tray utility so its very convenient to use. You can read more about it on Dolby's official page. System Tray Utility I'm not sure if many users are still soldiering on with the M17x R2 but heres a fix if you wanted the use the Dolby Home Theater v4 application. Support for the IDT High Definition controller used in this machine is non-existant. The only driver I could use was the one's directly from Dell (apart from this Dolby Driver) so I hope this is of some help to fellow M17x R2 users who are looking for more customisable sound. I've replicated my steps a few times and I'm fairly certain should work without isue on an Alienware M17x R2 with Windows 8.1 as that's what I'm using. You could give it a try if you have an onboard IDT HD Audio card as well. Fixing the INF for use with an IDT High Definition Audio sound card 1. Uninstall all audio applications/drivers and reboot. Windows should install the default "High Definition Audio" driver. 2. Download the installation files from here. Extract the rar. 3. Extract the "Dolby PCEE Drivers.msi" installation file using msiexec and the command line. eg... msiexec /a "C:Dolby PCEE Drivers.msi" /qb TARGETDIR="C:Extracted Dolby PCEE Drivers" 4. Using the above extraction path as reference, go to C:Extracted Dolby PCEE DriversDolby PCEE DriversDrivers64Release. You should see a file called PCEE4-DHT.INF 5. Open the file and find and replace all occurances of HDAUDIOFUNC_01&VEN_11D1 with HDAUDIOFUNC_01&VEN_111D. Save and close. 5.1 Optional depending on whether you're running Windows 8.1. Reboot with Driver signing off. ie. Hold down Shift when clicking Restart. Select Troubleshoot->Advanced Options->Startup Settings. Click Restart. Once the machine reboots press F7 at the Startup Settings screen to Disable driver signature enforcement. 6. Go back to the extracted Dolby PCEE Drivers folder and run "Dolby PCEE Drivers.msi". Select the "DHT(release)" driver. You should be prompted on whether to install the driver or not, select Install. Your drivers should now be installed. If you're using another machine with IDT HD Audio and can hear a marked difference in sound when you go to your Playback Device's properties and switch between the Dolby profiles on the Dolby tab you can go ahead and install the "Dolby Home Theater v4.msi" application. If you do not have the Dolby Tab under your speaker playback device and have the Enhancements Tab instead read on. At this point if I plugged in a pair of Headphones into the 2nd or 3rd audio jacks, the Headphones properties under Playback Devices contained the Dolby Tab and the Dolby effects were working with the headphone playback devices. Enabling the Dolby Tab and effects on the Speaker Playback Device 1. Open regedit and go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionMMDevicesAudioRender. There should be multiple entries here. Expand the entries and look for the ones with both "FxProperties" and "Properties" keys. To identify the Speakers playback device one of the "Properties" key values will have a string value called "{a45c254e-df1c-4efd-8020-67d146a850e0},2" with a data value of "Speakers". We're interested in the "FxProperties" key above this "Properties" key. 2. Under this "FxProperties" key, delete all values apart from (Default). 3. Copy and paste the below to Notepad making sure to change ****** to the name of the parent key of that particular "FxProperties" key. eg. Mines was called {36018a56-954a-437d-8bdb-0b6bbf830dbc}. The name will vary as it changes with every driver install. Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 [H]******[/B]FxProperties] "{b725f130-47ef-101a-a5f1-02608c9eebac},10"="Dolby PCEE4" "{d04e05a6-594b-4fb6-a80d-01af5eed7d1d},3"="{C53E5AAF-5F6F-41c2-9F63-ADEBBC9B6B64}" "{d04e05a6-594b-4fb6-a80d-01af5eed7d1d},0"="{00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000}" "{d04e05a6-594b-4fb6-a80d-01af5eed7d1d},1"="{BC8E3B67-3306-4eef-B230-6798E9A67F0B}" "{1da5d803-d492-4edd-8c23-e0c0ffee7f0e},5"=dword:00000000 3. Run this reg file and select yes when prompted on whether you want to add this information to the registry. If you have a look at the same "FxProperties" key again you will notice the above values have been added. 4. Reboot the machine. 5. You should now have Dolby effects working on your speaker device. Install the "Dolby Home Theater v4.msi" and you're done! Notes: The effects are only really worth while if you're using headphones, the M17x R2's speakers aren't that good. So this exercise is a bit pointless really. I'm not a fan of processed sound but what really annoyed me was that the effects only worked when the Headphones were plugged in. Hopefully some of you guys enjoy it. Credits: I'd like to thank @fr33jack from guru3d forums for providing the install files on his post here and @epguy19 also from guru3D for pointing out the flaw in the drivers INF for the IDT device ID on his post here. I'd also like to thank @erp-ster7n from the laptopvideo2go forums for the insight into the enhancement tab mods with his post here. DISCLAIMER: Perform this modification at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused by technical error, user inexperience or stupidity.
  17. Lol, I'm also running out of things to tinker with. At this point I dont think I will change this machine, I still haven't seen a worthy successor. The new nVIDIA mobile cards are really impressive though. I've actually stopped using the Dolby effects as it sounds too processed at times. It doesnt help that the TactX headset has its own customised soundscape. Although the bass isnt as bad on the TactX as I thought it would be, its definitely not well suited for music.
  18. I've managed to get the Dolby Home Theater v4 application working on our machines. If you need a change from the boring IDT control panel you can find the thread here.
  19. You're most welcome @orankid1972, hope you have lots of fun with your new mod Edit: Just remember that the PSU works up to a limit of 240w without the mod. If you exceed that limit you know for certain that the mod was successful.
  20. The blue ID wire should be thin and at the centre of the cable exactly like in the picture in the guide. If you connect the blue ID wire coming from the PSU's PCB to the negative wire you have nothing to worry about. The Dell 330W actually switches and grounds the ID wire on its own when it receives the correct signal back from an M18X/X51. This is how the 240W limit is lifted. In this case by connecting the ID wire to the negative wire we're manually grounding it. edit: to set your mind at ease, I've taken an excerpt out of imsolidstate's blog...
  21. Yes that would be a cleaner method. Good luck!
  22. if i remember correctly CLEVO owners only need to ground the ID line (the thin blue wire in the guide). This simply means the blue wire needs to be connected to the negative wire (you can see a picture of the stripped cable in the guide showing the positive, negative and ID wires). You may also need to get the specific connector for your laptop (If its not the same as Dells) or just cut your your existing CLEVO PSU connector and use that. You dont need to connect the ID line to the connector as CLEVO's dont use the ID line.
  23. Welcome to T|I @Blueneon, I'm terribly sorry for not seeing this sooner. I purchased mines though Amazon US. They seller shipped to South Africa and at the time these 330W units were going really cheap. I paid around $42 if I remember correctly. The total cost after converting to Rands was under R500 including customs/VAT. Dell South Africa's new Alienware division is a pain in the ass honestly, I ordered Alienware parts absolutely fine with no problems from Dell before Alienware arrived here. Last I spoke with Alienware SA, they wanted me to order via the UK and there was a lot of politics and nonsensical rules they had to follow... so I no longer buy anything through them. Sorry for replying so late, @dw1992817. Yes, you can use anything really. As I mentioned in the first post, I used a piece of PCB that I broke of a spare mouse that had a SOT-23 chip. I removed the chip from the PCB, made sure that the connection points were independant from each other cleaned it up a bit and it worked perfectly. The entire point of using the PCB is so that theres no strain on the chips legs. If you find another way to do that without using the PCB, go for it!
  24. Nospheratu

    Alienware m17x R2 and HD6970m issues

    If I remember correctly the Dell 6970M's did not have auto fan control in the R2. You would have to use HWinfo's fan control to automate the GPU's fan's spinup according to GPU temps. Read more about it here.
  25. Nospheratu

    [M17x R2] with AMD 7970M CrossfireX

    The reason I asked for your OS is, I dual booted Windows 7 and 8 and I didnt get the BSODs on Windows 8. It could have been due to the fresh OS install since I used the same driver that gave me BSODs in Windows 7. This was also only on 3Dmark whereas 3Dmark11 ran fine.
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