[email protected]

I wrote down all the possible settings of my asus from the device manager, maybe something needs to be set differently or something - do you have an idea? because the network card can only be set there, right?

20/40 coexistence – auto/enab/disab

2g bandwidth capability – 2.4G: 20/40Mhz Or 2.4G: 20Mhz

40Mhz intolerant – enab/disab

802.11d support (auto-country) – disab/enab

Antenna diversity – auto/aux/main

Arp offload – enab/disab

Assoc listen interval – number like 1,2,3 etc

Beamforming – disabled/enabled

Bluetooth collaboration – auto/enab/disab

Bss plcp header – auto(short/long) or long

D2 listen interval – 1,2,3 etc i has setup 5

Enable/disable LTR – enab/disab

Fragmentation threshold – number , i has “2346”

Locally aministered mac address – number or dosent exsist (i has this one)

Ltr active value in microseconds – numbers , i have 60

Minimum power consumption – enab/disab

Ns offload –enab/disab

Power output – percents , i has 100%

Priority & vlan – P&V disabled or P&V enabled or priority enabled or vlan enabled

Rts threshold – numbers, i have 2347

Vht features – numbers, i have 7

Wake on magic pocket – enab or disab

Wake on pattern match – enab od disab

Wfd channel number – numbers, i have 11

Wifi rekeying offload – disabled/ enabled

Wmm – auto/disab/enab

Xpress (tm) technology – enabled/disabled

Hi, I am looking for a WIFI network card (it would be nice if it was with BT) for my PC.

I can't let the cable go, I know it will be worse on WIFI, but it's hard.

Currently I have a router with UPC (polish company) with a 500 mega net (weak router, I know) but soon there will be a router with WIFI 6 from another 1 giga operator - no router crazy, but let's say that it must be enough for the time being.
the current router is
Compal Broadband Networks CH7465LG-LC (the one from UPC) but I think it's less important because I can always buy my router in the future



I did two tests on the current router

on the desk there was an antenna from my current network card (such a crap that I disconnected it at all), i.e. Asus PCE-AC88 (in my computer)

interestingly, on the same desk I put my Thinkpad laptop with an Intel AX210NGW network card, i.e. ax210NGW
I didn't set anything up neither the computer nor the laptop, i.e. I didn't set anything up in the network cards.

Much better internet parameters were on the laptop.

The topic was so tiring that in the end (from six months ago) I gave it up, but now I want to quickly buy a PC card.

Back then, from what I remember, the final conclusion was that the Intel based network cards work best and my asus has something other than intel.



So: what network card to buy? one on the pcie (Or USB) so that the antenna was on the cable, so that it could stand on the desk.



Under WIFI 6, I would like it to serve for a long time with the latest possible chipset.



I assume that if the 2-year-old card in my thinkpad works cool, then some newer PC intel will be even better - at least a little.



What to buy and why?

Hi, I'm helping a neighbor with the "new" montor

it has a radeon r7 260x graphics card

monitor asus vw222s

and windwos 10

the monitor has only a vga connector and the card has a hdmi and dvi connector

I gave a dvi to vga adapter and connected it to the monitor with a vga cable

everything works but there is a problem

the monitor has a resolution of 1680x 1050 and it does not show me in Windows (the latest card drivers)

I have 1600x1200 and the screen is weird and the "x" button to close the browser is not visible in chrome



How can I get it?

any other adapter?

some parameter in windows? it would be nice to be able to add a custom resolution manually simply



Do you have an idea how to fix it?





Yes, I know it's old equipment but it is and I can't help it.

Hi, I have an update.

I know that the paste has probably dried under the cap, but I have to do something with this processor in the budget.

In the factory settings, the computer had just passed 15 minutes of OCCT on extreme and the max was at 91 degrees for a while.

I am more happy than what yesterday was on 4Ghz and kind of undervolting because there after 4 minutes it was 95 degrees (all the time occt extreme)

For me, there are two conclusions

you can do undervolting on the factory 3.9 GHz and the temperatures will be quite cool because (if now 91 degrees in OCCT, then after UV from 5 degrees it can go down and in games it will be a little less degrees than it is in OCCT, so it will be ok)

BUT

In my opinion, I still do not know the OC / UV capabilities of this processor - I am sure of it because in the factory settings in the bios I have lower temperatures than after my UV, which means I am doing something wrong.

one of two scenarios seems to be the case

a) for each parameter, such as voltage of the cpu itself, there are options Auto - normal - and then different numerical values. I don't know if it is possible that auto / normal has a lower value than the lowest value where we see the digits.

b) somewhere in these options (many) where there is C1 or turbo options, there are some parameters that the above settings from point "a" raise some tension because they are in auto mode.

And so.

I will take screenshots from the movie and I will post it for you

(a) numbers and parameters that can be set under all voltages

b) photo of all turbo options etc. and tell me what I can turn off so that it is better and at the same time that the speedstep processor should have low clocks in the idle. I remember that, for example, in Asrock motherboards, the "spectrum" parameter turned off or something like that, because he was doing a lot of wrong and speed step worked anyway

and so:

Cpu vtt

From left to right 1.075 (something like this is in the table next to it, so it's probably an auto value)

Auto - normal - 0.77 - 0.82 - 0.87 - 0.92 - 0.97 - 1.020 - 1.075 - 1.085 - 1.095 - 1.105- 1.115 - 1.125 - 1.35

Cpu pll a strange thing because the table shows that the auto mode is probably 1.845

Auto settings - normal - 1.545 - 1.645 - 1.745 - 1.845



Imc 0.940 (in the table, unless auto mode has this value) auto -normal - 0.69 -0.74 -0.79 -0.84 -0.89 - 0.94 -0.95 -0.96 -0.97 -0.98- 0.99 -1.0 -1.01 and above

https://imgur.com/a/ozQGRIR

Hi, I got a "on the table" computer with a motherboard and processor as in the title

There are 4 RAM bones (16GB in total)

airy casing but not some high-end (average, you can say)

CPU cooling is better than box cooling, but it's not good Dark rock or silentium (fresh paste on the CPU is)



The goal is like last time - to safely overclock your CPU (with HT on) and keep temperatures down to keep them cool.

I tried, I got tired and achieved nothing.

The target is some 4.2Ghz

plate replacement or cooling is not possible

I tested different settings on 4.2 and 4.0Ghz clocks - each time after 5 minutes in OCCT on extreme I have even 95 degrees Celsius.

This board has few functions and I have already freaked out what and how



I could not take pictures because it is impossible to display all possible options on this disc, but you can change it with the + and - buttons on the keyboard, so I recorded a movie.



What and how would you arrange it so that it would be good?

if 4.2 is not stable then 4.0 may be ok



HT has to stay



Speed step is welcome, so that the idle processor lowers the clocks.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a_NxfiYnUh0jUhw06_crAPMsSHxZA77W/view

Hi, I am looking for a nvme 1TB disk ...

I'm looking for something high-end.

My experiences are poor and therefore I am not objective in the subject.

I have Samsung 850 pro (3x) tired of life because they break for 5-6 years sharply and nothing is happening to them ... performance like new (probably thanks to mlc)

in mlc I would excel and just buy a Samsung 970 Pro 1TB but its price ... is about 2x higher than the rest (for 1TB about PLN 1100 you have to pay, it's hard to buy something second-hand, no promotion)

1. there is nothing else on the mlc, right?

2.I read about phision disks a year ago that they are so great - some late corsair mp510 (I didn't have that at the time) and silicon a80 (always these 3 disks were given as one and the same, but from different manufacturers)

I had 5 of these disks (except the Corsair) with a capacity of 1 TB and some 500 GB.

Some of the above shots with electricity (I used a quiet thinkpad, the laptop was not audible at night, only the surge from the disk was audible.
for the sake of safety, I got rid of them

Then I bought another (probably silicons) 1TB
new thinkpad l390 bsoded and worked unstable on these disks
t490 thinkpad the same - bsods and strange micro jams
t480 tinkpad the same

(of course, the system was reinstalled, etc. the disks were brand new)
I threw a 970 pro 512GB into each of the above laptops - as he took his hand off, no shots of electricity, not a single blue screen from then on and fully stable operation.

now I have probably 1tb in my pc (z370 gaming k6) and the computer has had this disk in it (the system is not on it) the bsoda computer started to catch, 5 years it worked quietly and it was enough to add the nvme disk and it freaked out.

I am fed up with the exotics too, I am heartily fed up

I use computers for work, so this cannot happen.

And in the dark, I would load 970 pro 1TB everywhere and had 10 years of peace and stability, but it is seriously problematic to embrace them.

it has never let me down (I'm talking about ssd itself, including some nvme - all on MLC)
 

But is there an alternative?

You can get such a WD SN750 (because there are outlets, used almost new ones, etc.) literally for half the price of this 970 pro.

Why is it that this disk is recommended as the highest tier along with the 970 pro as one is on the mlc and the other on the TLC?

for now the disk will work with asrock gaming k6 z370 but this disk will stay with me in the future when I buy 12gen
 

Hi, I have a question about the i7 9700k I can choose a processor for myself (I can give the other one) both have the S-spec SRG15 one of them has Batch # V032D769 the other has Batch # V032D796 Do these Batch numbers have any effect on CPU quality / overclockability or whatever?

Hello, iam rebuilding my PC for gaming in 1440p only(165Hz monitor) with AAA games like a Far Cry 6, RDR2, Forza Horizon 5 etc. in max graphics settings

I will OC my 9700k in 4.8 probably (I don't know if a higher clock will make sense)

rtx 3070 depending on what model and art to buy, I will try to do OC

i have z370 asrock gaming k6

and now i have  2x8GB DDR4 BLE8G4D34AEEAK.K8FB Ballistix Elite Crucial 3466Mhz - 3466 CL16 (when i setup it on 3600 manually with other settings unchanged it doesent work)

Is changing my ram to something  4000Mhz with CL18 increase my FPS? Does it make sense?

If it would give rise to what size?

maybe it's better somewhere to find some settings for my memory so that they do at least the 3800?
The efficient card, the CPU after OC will also be nice, only these RAMs do not match the whole thing, but if I have to get 1FPS by changing RAM, I will give it a rest

hey, I have a computer on the "table" with ryzen 5 2600x + amd wraith cooling on it (factory, with LED) + large case (3x air intake fan + 2x exhausting fan, 12cm each) on b450 msi tomahawk

for this msi gtx 1070 (probably the one with one fan)



the issues are 3



1. I have leds

a) some stripes on the mobo

b) on a cpu cooler (but if it is RGB / ARGB, I do not know)

c) 3x factory 12cm fan on the front

d) 2x 12cm zalman fan. (1x rear, 1x top)



the above fans are connected to the controller from the case and this one to the argb connector on the motherboard

led from the cpu cooler also to the board to the argb connector



I want to do something so that from the level of some application (msi mystic light because msi board? This is how it works?) I can control and synchronize all LEDs in the computer - and y fan and cpu cooler and plate lighting.

How should I do it and set it up? in the mystic application, I only have access to the LEDs on the motherboard.



Or maybe I have to connect something else?

I have to do it at the cheapest cost because it's not for me ... and I don't like LEDs and don't know about them, that's why I'm asking here.



2. Are there any ready-made configurations to tweak this prock a bit? I don't mean some strong overclocking but maybe you can easily achieve e.g. 4.5Ghz or something like that? '



3. I turned on the cart - cpu killer to maxa + for full furmark test.

It got hot.

According to I would have to set the fans to work as they work, but + 20-30% faster all the time, or change the fan curve somewhere.

Where are these things done?

because I will present the curve in the afterburner right?