blowntaha

Repaste, try also pasting the voltage regulators which come into contact with the heat sink Clean your dust Laptop cooler If not using the Optical bay, it might be wise, then to just remove the whole thing. OR, if you're not using an SSD and your hard drive has a spindle, you might want to move this to the optical bay. This way you have less heat bunched up near your GPU (which is right above HDD. I believe) [*]Remove your bottom cover This is the big one, my temps usually go up about 8 degrees when I forget to take this off [*]If you're not using a laptop cooler, get one. This is also another big point. If you're unable to get a cooler, then find a way to elevate your laptop about an inch or two [*]Make sure the screws for your heat sink are very tight (don't break it like I did!) More pressure = more heat dissipation = Cool temps [*]Another note on the laptop cooler, make sure to leave about an inch between the fan of the coolor and the surface it is on. This is all I can think of with keeping your temps down, I'll edit this if I come across anything else, or forgot to add/ Regarding the part you said about running the fan at full speed; I don't remember where I saw how to do it, but it involves shorting/reconnecting/cutting two wires and once you perform this hard mod, you can't un-do it (unless you buy another heat sink or fan). You have to google it yourself, I'm not going to for you.

Does anyone know how to change the max power limit for this card 660m in vbios?¿? I saw an option in Kepler bios tweaker but I wasn't sure If it would work. Im thinking that's the next "bottleneck" holding it back after having increased voltage and clocks

Repasted, currently not using HHD and DVD bay so both areas are empty so allows for slightly better airflow. I use two coolers (long story) and sits next to my window where its cold. Max temps are 74-76 under normal conditions. ill post a gpu z screenshot after an hr of skyrim or something later EDIT: After 2 hrs of dota 2: EDIT 2: After ~hr of skyrim

Here is one more, 1.2125 V I'm able to do 1400 core / 2880 mem which can almost gets me a 4000 for 3dmark11 Initial 3dmark11 score: 3983 Optimal BIOS settings (...for performance, not battery!): Power -> advanced cpu control -> Disable power MSR lock, change long turbo time lmit 28 => 56 (credit to schranzmaster) Disable C-States (Optional) Disable Power States (This gives me mixed results, and cpu-z gives me an error with this on) Advanced -> Video -> PCI Express -> Change ASPM from LoLs1 -> Disabled

The only known way to control the fan speed is via hard mod, but doing so just forces the fan to run full speed at all times. I'm not sure where specifically I read it, but shouldn't be too difficult to find on google. I know your question was already answered, but disabling optimus on this laptop is impossible. The closest you'd get to disabling integrated graphics would be muxing it to an external display, which according to svl7 is impossible. @ErYani, If what I'm thinking is what you're talking about, then to change the max and min dynamic voltages, you can compare the stock BIOS with schranzmaster's tweaked BIOS in hex edit. Then, the values where both the VBIOS's have E0C810 (1.1 V) would be the max voltage and where ever shranzmaster's bios has E0C810 where the stock BIOS does NOT have that value would be the min voltage. I think somewhere near there would also be the clocks and/or power state each voltage corresponds to. I'm not sure if this is even how this works but logically, it makes sense to me. Shranzmaster's BIOS prevents throttling, downclocking, downvolting, and changes the base clocks to 1200 core and 2700 mem. && Here is a BIOS I tweaked which is based on shranzmaster's, but voltage is increased to 1.200 V and is stable, and also has base clocks 1200/2700. Both of these tweaked BIOS are based on svl7's 2.07 unlocked BIOS (sorry 8.0x users DX). Link to Shranzmaster's modded BIOS (1.10 V): http://forum.techinferno.com/attachments/nvidia/11088d1393679418-y580_v2.07_660m1-20ghz_steady-voltage_2-8ghzmem_nothrottling.zip Link to my BIOS (1.20 V): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-YbO6MQ7Mz1eEpqaUFPY2tmbU0/edit?usp=sharing

nvm.

When you say that the rest of the stuff doesn't work with Kepler BIOS editor for mobile GPUs, did you mean that you'd be unable to make the actual changes in Kepler BIOS modder because they are unavailable to change (greyed out), OR did you mean that you can make the actual changes on there but they won't stick/potentially brick your laptop? The reason I ask this is because I'm using Kepler BIOS tweaker, and IIRC, I wasn't able to change much of anything when I used an older version of this tool. I became interested in this to try again, and when I opened "D2333ED3-4EA4-46CD-9DB2-41EEB6E8E158" in the kepler tool, the voltage section was not greyed out and tweakable. Am I mistaken or will changing this, re-attaching it to main bios, and then flashing it brick my laptop?

Ah, I understand now. I just flashed it and ran a quick Skyrim test run and it's not throttling! Also, it seems to be able to handle my 1350 core/2800 memory clocks well, but haven't stress tested it yet. Thanks a lot!!!

I'm definately flashing this ASAP, but when you say you adjusted the voltage to 1.1 V, was that a typo? Default is 1.1 Thanks!

Specs: Model: Lenovo Y580 CPU: 3610QM, TPL in Throttlestop changed from default @ 45W (Long) ==> 60W @ 56W ==> 65W GPU: 660m Clocks: 1350 Core / 2800 Memory Voltage: 1.10 V ==> 1.175 V (done via bios mod by ErYani which is based on Svl7's 2.07 unlocked bios) RAM: 8 GB AC Adapter: Changed stock @ 120W ==> 150W (using an ASUS brick, connector is the same size) Display: 32" TV via HDMI Absolute Maximum temps ALL TIME (from the time I flashed over-volted BIOS && OS/Win 7 re-install): My laptop is right next to the window with a laptop cooler, it's cold where I live and window is always open with direct cold air flow to my laptop, on hotter days, the upper limits of these temps occur CPU: 76 - 80 GPU: 74 - 78 NVIDIA Driver version: 334.89 (latest) Issue: When I'm playing "heavy" games such as Crysis 3 or skyrim, my frames drop from a constant 40-50ish to below 20. This is directly related to the CORE clock dropping to 405. As you can see, temps aren't that high. And I'm ASSUMING the driver hasn't crashed/recovered because usually when that happens, the clocks get set to defaults, which are 1000 Core and 2500 Memory (modified vbios, absolute stock defaults are 835 2250 i think). Another reason why I don't think it's a driver crash because in the past when this has happened to me in while playing Crysis 3, the game itself crashing giving me an error like DXGI device removed or something like that. My VRAM isn't overloaded and typically never goes above ~1600 of the 2048. NOTE: This will happen even when my clocks are at defaults. This downclocking occurs MOST NOTABLY when I play Skyrim. Using BOTH GPU-Z and Skyrim Performance Monitor, which displays VRAM, RAM, GPU usage, and CPU usage as an in-game overlay. I start it up, play for about 10 min, then it downclocks for about 15, then normal for 1 - 5 min, and so on. Maximum VRAM I have EVER seen on the skyrim perf mon and GPU-Z is never ever more than ~1500. In fact, this happens even when VRAM is below 1024. So, I've ruled that out. This specific laptop also has a bloat (but required, AFAIK) application, Lenovo Energy Management, which is needed so that the power plan can be set to "Dynamic Graphics mode" which is the only mode that allows for full clocks to be used. This problem happens with a fresh Win 7 OS install. I use DDU everytime I try a new driver to see if it fixes my issue. I've also tried using simple INF modifications which was adding the lines: [NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.1] %NVIDIA_DEV.0FD4% = Section102, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0FD4 [strings] NVIDIA_DEV.0FD4 = "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M" to the nv_dispi (cant remember the exact name, close enough) to "manually add support for my GPU" to the driver. I've also tried using LeeKM's modded driver but that always fails. So my conclusion is either something wrong with the nvidia drivers or the dx redists "drivers" I wasn't sure if this is where I should be posting this but seemed most relavant. Please and ty for any and all help.

I remember seeing it go for about 170-200 on aliexpress/ebay

If i were you, I'd just RMA it. My warranty sticker was torn and they still replaced the mobo.

...... okay,,, seems like you made a mistake somewhere. Did you make sure the cmos was reconnected and making contact with the mobo? This happened to me before, although I was doing a re-pasting and dusting, where the laptop would not turn on. When I took it apart to find what was wrong, it turns out I missed a tiny ribbon cable for the bluetooth card (I think that's what it is, it lies near the right corner near the audio jack). So, apparently the bluetooth card has something to do with the power? IDK. In your case, since IIRC to reset CMOS you only have to go to the part of removing the keyboard and the top frame, you might have missed the ribbon cable for your keyboard (there are two). Also, there is a ribbon when you remove the top plate. And finally you have the three connections (wires) on the bottom. I would think your issue is one of these, but since I don't know your ESD conditions and precautions, I can't say for sure.

Here are a couple things not included in the link to try, Make sure you're using the 100% default stock BIOS from lenovo's site (if your stock bios was 2.07) and that nothing interferes with your internet connection while you download it to avoid corruption. Use a NON-3.0 USB, e.g. do not use a USB port which is blue and/or USB 3.0. For most, if not all, these will be the ports on the right side. I think this part was obvious but just to cover all bases, the file you download from lenovo's site must be extracted using winrar 7zip etc, and then the file with a .rom/.bin file extension is the one you want. Place it in the ROOT directory (ex: <insert drive="" letter="">:\QIWY3.rom\) then copy paste with different names etc etc.</insert> Before doing all this, go ahead and disassemble your laptop up until the point where the CMOS battery is exposed (this can be done without unscrewing the warranty sticker). Gently lift the battery until there is no contact made between battery and mobo. Wait 1 minute (i've heard some say anywhere from 1 second to 5 seconds to hours, IME 1 min has worked). Put the battery back, and your laptop back together then proceed as normal. gl

IIRC, the bios backup you create before flashing is only for windows licensing for the bios fix. I posted a BIOS recovery guide a couple pages ago, use the search button.

I bricked my laptop trying to do something similar. I may or may not have done something wrong, but thought I'd share.

I've seen some threads with people saying the base clock is adjustable with all other settings locked for the 3610QM && 3630QM but I've been unable to unlock the base clock control in intel XTU with a various combination of BIOS settings. 3720QM + allow "proper" overclocking.

They wanted your laptop in its "original configuration" ? When I sent mine for an RMA, the DVD drive was removed, HDD was removed, battery was removed, pretty much the only thing that wasn't removed was the RAM and the bottom cover lol.

Installing the bluetooth driver from lenovo's site worked fine for me on windows 8 && 8.1

My clocks would read 1 ghz too, and overclocked like normal but when I'd put it under heavy load, like playing skyrim or crysis 1/2/3 then it would eventually downclock to 405, even at default clocks it would still happen. && I meant win 8.1, but the same problem happened when I tried win 8. I don't know why this happens but going back to win 7 seems to solve everything for me.

I figured out why my gpu core clock kept going down to 405 under high load. It had something to do with Windows 8 because I reinstalled win 8 several times, following the correct driver install order, and other times I tried preinstalling intel and nvidia drivers but nothing helped. Eventually I just said fuck it and went back to Windows 7. Problem is gone now. The downclocking may also be because of my changed ASPM modes (has been disabled and auto select) but IIRC problem was still there when those were on default. I'm just gonna keep it at default since I can easily score 3900s on 3dmark 11 and that's good enough for me (although higher is welcome!) =) (for those curious) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name

Good luck!

Would you mind telling me exactly what to edit using hex editor to change the voltage? And, do you know how to increase the power target because that's also greyed out in nvidia inspector, where as temp target is NOT greyed out but still cannot be changed (I also tried to use -setTempTarget with no success). Or is that something that has to be changed in hex edit too?

wanted to see if I could "unlock" the vbios so that I could change voltage in software like in nvidia inspector. If I can't do that then I was gonna make a bunch of different voltage BIOS's. Having to flash a different BIOS just to change the voltage is a real pain..

OK, I found the 'D2333ED3-4EA4-46CD-9DB2-41EEB6E8E158" but when I try to open it with NiBiTor I get errors, is this normal or am I using the wrong tool/doing something wrong? OR do I think it's much simpler than it actually is Thanks for the help you've given me thus far.