Imrule

On 1/2/2017 at 11:06 AM, Blokmeister said:

I think I bricked my laptop. I could update just fine, except I couldn't flash the EC. I saw a post which said that it wouldn't be a problem so I just rebooted and could get into bios. I changed the boot device priority to boot from my SSD instead of HDD. I looked at a lot of settings but other than an undervolt of 10mV, I didn't change anything. Now when I rebooted, I get a black screen and the keyboard backlight turns on. Otherwise it's just nothing. I don't think the laptop boots into windows, as just typing the password and pressing enter (the sequence which should get me into windows) does not make any sounds. Therefore I don't think it's just the screen.

 

So my summary is as follows:

1. Flashed modded 3.05, completed succesfully

2. Failed flashing of EC failed, and I just rebooted

3. Entered bios, changed boot device settings and an underclock of 10mV

4. Rebooted

5. Black screen, fan turns on and keyboard backlight turns on. Laptop responds to fn+space to change keyboard lighting and long-press of power button shuts down laptop. Laptop does not boot into windows.

 

I'm right now searching for a few guides on resetting the bios. I read a bit about the contacts behind the RAM which should do something, but I'm having trouble refinding those posts.

 

Any suggestions/quick fixes or things that I can check?

 

Thanks!

 

 

update: I tried to recover using the fn+r or fn+b recovery method, but to no avail. I ordered a new dual bios chip from amazon which I hope will arrive somewhere next week. I'll keep you posted.

 

update 2: I switched the two bios chips around as suggested before. After this, the fan speeds up to max when turning on the laptop, the keyboard still responds to changes in keyboard lighting and beeps when removing/inserting the power plug. However, using the fn+r recovery method still doesn't work. Before the bios swap, the LED on the USB drive turns off after a few seconds, whereas after the swap it stays on. However, it doesn't blink, and I think that the flashing doesn't start. After about one minute, the laptop turns itself off. I tried this with two different USB sticks, both FAT and FAT32 formatted. I'm kinda lost about what to do now. I think I'll wait for the new BIOS chips to arrive.

When you turn your laptop over and remove the bottom plate off you will see your RAM sticks. Near the bottom-left of the RAM sticks you will see two sets of contacts; one labeled JME1, and the other CMOS2. You need to short the CMOS2 jumper. You'll see a fine line between the contacts just use a paper clip or wire and short them together. DO NOT short the JME1 with the CMOS2 jumpers, you could cause the CMOS battery to short and that would need replacement. Here is a link to a photo that will show you what the jumpers looks like.

http://imgur.com/P7isA1O

On 1/19/2017 at 3:36 PM, Doge said:

Whats with the download? It just says

If you are unable to download this file, it may be due to one or a combination of the following reasons:

 

Oh nevermind. I figgured it out.

 

Another question though. If i am on 3.08 do i just need to downgrade?

Yes, First you must downgrade to 2.07 and then upgrade to the modded 3.05 BIOS and EC.

Be sure you to flash the BIOS and EC, or else you will have problems.

I have the same exact setup as moisesmcardona. But I instead of using version 372.70 I used the oldest version there was for the GTX1060. I'm running on Windows 8 64-bit with the EXP GDC 8.0 and is connected to my mPCIE slot. I'm using a Corsair 430W PSU with an additional sata to 8pin PCI power cable. I'm also using an external monitor since I couldn't figure out how to use my internal monitor. If I had known that I didn't need to mod my BIOS I would have saved myself a lot of time and headache.

http://imgur.com/rc7wlpT

I'll try to install 372.70 drivers to see if they work and I'll confirm it as well. This whole time I thought it was a BIOS setting which was causing the error 43 but it was the drivers.

I have a lenovo y510p with modded 3.05.

Does anyone know what this setting does and what it changes? The setting is currently on SG

Video Configuration>Primary Display

And here's another setting I'm confused about, which the setting is on 100ms

Video Configuration>PCI express graphic>PCIE reset Delay

A little background story...

In the past I have bricked my laptop when i changed both of those settings at the same time. I remember that after changing both of them I was able to output video from my egpu to an external monitor.

but after a reboot I got a bricked laptop. After spending weeks trying to fix it, I finally got my laptop running again by getting new bios and ec chips.

I have my bios and ec unlocked again and have my egpu connected using the mPCI port. I'm able to see the graphic card in device manager but im getting a error code 43

I have tried removing the drivers with DDU and reinstalling them in many different ways but nothing seems to work. I have a feeling that its one of those settings.

I'm just to scared to try it again and get a bricked laptop again and lose another 3 weeks of my time.

Can anyone shed some light on what these settings do, and if it will help my situation?

thanks

On 12/08/2014 at 8:28 PM, blowntaha said:

How to setup an eGPU with Y580:

 

1. Buy/get a PE4L-PM060A adaptor, GPU, and an appropirate PSU which is able to provide steady 12V/16A (or you can use two PSUs if your PSU can provide it but not at a steady rate.).
2. Although not necessary, go ahead and download svl7's unlocked BIOS here. When I was troubleshooting my setup to get it working, I reverted to stock BIOS thinking the problem lied there, but eventually upon random startups, it would be buggy, and sometimes take a while AFTER rebooting for the display to switch from the internal LCD to an external monitor. Unlocking it lets you change an option that the stock does not allow, it also lets you tweak some other settings which may improve CPU performance.
3. Go into the BIOS, and under configuration, change SWITCHABLE GRAPHICS to UMA GRAPHICS.
   1.  
   2. If you've unlocked it, go to Advanced settings, then to Video settings, select PCI Graphics (or PCI express, ... I'm writing this from memory), then change primary display to Auto-selected. For some better CPU performance, go to the power tab, CPU settings, then disable C-States, disable MSR Lock, and set the last two settings to the maximum. You can do this by hitting f6/f5 (can't remember which) after highlighting the option. Hit F10 to save and exit. If you don't have Throttlestop 6.0 already, download it, start it, and go to TPL settings (which are now unlocked thanks to disabled MSR Lock), and change 26 to 56 for the time setting, then set the long and short TDP to however you see fit. I personally use 56 for long and 60 for short. Apply, OK. Uninstall your NVIDIA drivers (I recommend DDU) and Lenovo Power Management.
       
   3. Power down everything (duh) and plug the PE4L in the WiFi slot or the empty modem slot (WiFi slot is easier since you can screw it). Flip your laptop over so it is upright, making sure it's on a flat surface. Plug in your GPU and any necessary 6-pin cables from your PSU along with your SWEX. And last but not least the floppy molex, peripheral cable to 4 pin cable onto the PE4L adaptor itself. If you don't have SWEX, you can just grab a paperclip, cut it into a U shape, put one end on the green wire hole space thing on the 20/24 ping PSU power cable and the other end in any black one (there is a black wire right next to the green). Place electric tape over the exposed part of the paperclip to secure it.
      1. If by chance your PSU *should* be capable, but you are having issues (like me), you can use two PSUs by having the second PSU power the PE4L adapter using the floppy molex. Use a second SWEX if you have one, or do the paper clip method.

 

[*]Power up both PSUs (the GPU fan/s should be spinning), wait a second then turn on your y580, install drivers and enjoy.

 

 

I'll post pics later.

3DMARK11.

6111 seems to be my max, since I can't push the clocks further than 1084/3225 core/mem, but it's probably that I don't have a "proper" PSU and/or know the right voltage.

Here's a vantage score, I only ran it once since I don't use it very often.

Has anyone attempted this on a Y510P?

I've already bricked my laptop once and wasted a lot of time fixing it. I don't want to take another chance. I am already on the modified BIOS fw and I do see the options he mentions above, but I don't know if this can also be applied to the Y510P.

When I first bricked my laptop I had changed the PCI graphics to auto (like how he mentioned) and changed the delay time to 3000ms. But I'm not sure which setting had caused the brick since I changed both settings at the same time after reboot. I'm thinking of trying just changing the PCI settings to auto this time but I don't want to brick again. Can someone shed some light on this and tell me if it's a good idea to follow the above instructions or if changing the PCI settings is risky.

Thanks in advance.

Fixed it, turns out it was the previous video card drivers I had installed. After doing a clean install of the driver for my internal graphics card, I was able to boot back into my os. All is back to normal. I guess I learned a valuable lesson not to play with BIOSs and what not. I guess I'll buy a desktop PC and slap my graphics card into that.

After patiently waiting for my BIOS and EC chips to come in, I finally received them today. I rushed to my laptop, unsoldered the old chips an soldered in the new ones. I was relieved when I saw the Lenovo screen and a single tear of joy ran down my cheek. I learned a valuable lesson not to play around with BIOS and ECs or else I wouldn't have been able to recover my laptop. 

For some weird reason when I tried to boot into my windows system it took forever and I received a blue screen with an error stating "POWER_DRIVER_STATE_ERROR". Not sure if it's because I don't have my battery plugged in or if it's because of something else. I did have my laptop hard drive plugged into my desktop PC (so that I could access my files) when my laptop was down. I had some file permissions changed so that I could access some directories but I highly doubt it could be because of that.

After it reboot itself a few times, it gave me a few recovery options. I decided to boot into safe mode which allowed me to boot my OS and log in. I looked through event viewer to see what could be causing it but I didn't really find anything. Could anyone shed some light on what could be the problem here?

On 10/31/2014 at 5:14 PM, elementalfx said:

Hi. Did anyone attempted to solder new bios chip after bricking?

I have seen that some company is selling bios chips for our laptop. I am probably going to buy it. I havent bricked my laptop(jet) but just in case it happens I will have those chips.

BIOS Chip:LENOVO Ideapad Y510P (Dual chips) | eBay

I have also seen other seller but its for Y510, they look same but I dont know if they are actually same, as they come preprogrammed already.

Lenovo IdeaPad Y510 (15303) Bios-Chip24.com

Also I am looking forward to buy this programmer if the chip will be compatible. I contacted the seller that I want to make sure what is the part number for bios chip of our laptop. I am too lazy to dissasemble my laptop again to look what part number it is

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPI-Flash-Programmer-WINBOND-ST-PMC-MXIC-ST-SST-ATMEL-/290587546215

Edit: It seems like chips in our laptop are Winbond 25Q32FV and Winbond 25Q16DV And they are pretty cheap to buy on aliexpress.com even if you buy them in bulk so in any case cost of chip plus programmer is cheaper rather than sending it to lenovo.

I ordered one of those chinese programmers. SP8-B SPI Programmer to be specific as it supports the chip we have in y510p and tommorow I am gonna order chips. I have to buy 10 of each but they are cheap. At least I have spare ones just in case.

I found this from another post which this user provided the dump of the EC chip but unfortunately it did not work for me.

I reprogrammed my 25Q32FV chip with my original bios backup and reprogrammed my 25Q16DV with his dump but it didnt work.

My laptop just turns on with the fans at full speed and then turns off. I know my bios backup is good but i dont know if the dump he provided was good.

I thought I might want to share this with others.

On 4/25/2015 at 8:24 AM, godlikebob said:

The EC Bios DUMP for write in a SPI Programmer in Winbond 25Q16DVIQ

y510p EC BIOS 25Q16DVSIQ.zip

I tried to use this dump by programming it to my EC chip which is the same model as you mentioned but it didnt work.

I reprogrammed my Winbond 25Q32FV chip with my backup bios (which I created before flashing the modded bios).

I reprogrammed my Winbond 25Q16DVIQ chip with the dump you provided and it didn't work.

When I try to boot, my laptop turns on, and seconds later it turns off and then turns on again with the fans at full speed and then turns off again and stays off.

Not sure what to do at this point, I know that my 25Q32FV chip has the right file programmed to it since I'm using my original backup, but I don't know if the EC dump you provided works.

Do you have another clean dump, or anything you could provide concerning the EC chip?

^^That goes for anyone else that is reading this.

Thanks in advance.

19 hours ago, dan71 said:

Imrule, if you have a bios programmer there is no need to buy new chips, just put a stock 3.05 or 3.08 on both.

Then downgrade to 2.07 and upgrade to 3.05 modded

Place order on Ebay and now way my bios to come got last pair

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIOS-Chip-LENOVO-Ideapad-Y510P-Dual-chips-/400641799916

Thanks Dan, I have been able to reprogram the 25Q32DV which I believe is the chip that holds the BIOS info, but I don't have a EC dump to flash the 25Q16DV.

I found a link on this site but it didn't seem to work.

I have place an order already and waiting for them to ship it, in the mean time I was thinking I'd try to reprogram these chips and see if I can salvage them.

Do you have a dump of the EC I could use? I found one on this site but it didn't seem to work. It just caused my laptop to turn on and off with fans going at full speed.

Hi, I recently desoldered my BIOS chip and was able to read and write to it using a universal programmer. I flashed it with the modded firmware (hoping everything would reset the bios settings but keeping the modded firmware) but it didn't work. The only solution would be is to buy the BIOS and EC chip and replace both of them for good measure. At this point, I have tried multiple things, such as trying to boot with only one of the chips on the board and swapping the chips with each other. Nothing worked. I have tried almost everything I can think of or what others have suggested but I the only thing that I have hope for is replacing the chips. I highly doubt Lenovo would be able to provide those chips so I'll have to order them from a 3rd party supplier. I have tried contacting chip24.com and waiting for a reply about a few questions I had concerning the compatibility of the chips they had in stock. I will be updating my progress on this form and a few others that are floating around on this site. Hopefully we'll get to the bottom of this.

3 hours ago, dan71 said:

Found there is no need to unsoldered coin lithium for bios, under lover sodimm you will find 2 contact for reset.

But this not solve my problem still bricked

I will buy my bios chip from ebay, change it and I will unlock again, but not use it for eGPU.

 

Let me know where you buy the BIOS chip from, and if you're gonna buy both the BIOS and EC chips.

Lucky for me, I have a universal programmer that is able to program the BUOS chip but I'm not sure how I'm going to connect the chip to the programmer.

Since the pins are so tiny on the BIOS chip I'm thinking of soldering each pin to a thin wire and connecting those wires to the programmer.

Let me know if the new chips work for you and where you bought them from. I hope they work.

UPDATE: I swapped the bios chips I didn't get past POST. The laptop turns on for a few seconds, turns off, turns back on with fans at full speed then turns off and stays off.

Not really sure what to do at this point. I tried this once without the CMOS battery in and the second time I soldered it back on. Made no difference.

I guess the only solution at this point would be is to order a new BIOS chip and solder it on and see what happens. Not sure if I need to order two of them and replace both chips or just one.

If there's anyone out there that can help or give any information on where I can get a new BIOS chip, Please, help me out.

I know there's still hope on fixing this but I'm out of solutions, anything will help at this point.

A user by the name of Lizzo said that he had desoldered both BIOS chips and swapped their placements. Does anyone know which BOIS chip is the primary one and which one is the secondary?

I'm thinking of desoldering one of them and trying to boot to see what happens but I wanna desolder the primary one (since that's the one holding the bad BIOS settings.

19 minutes ago, dan71 said:

Found there is no need to unsoldered coin lithium for bios, under lover sodimm you will find 2 contact for reset.

But this not solve my problem still bricked

I will buy my bios chip from ebay, change it and I will unlock again, but not use it for eGPU.

 

Desoldering the CMOS battery and soldering it back on worked for me but only twice was I able to boot into my OS.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to reproduce these results. I just need to boot into my OS one last time so that I can flash my bios back to stock.

Where are the reset contacts specifically, can you post a pic of it?

On ‎10‎/‎13‎/‎2015 at 9:59 PM, guyfromthe50s said:

Well I did that and tried the bios recovery but nothing has happened. All ports have been tried and so has each port with each of the different keys known to start the process. Im stumped. Any ideas before I try replacing the chips?

You can try taking desoldering the CMOS battery waiting a few mins and soldering it back. Used only the external power cable to power the laptop and turn on using the NOVO button (side button).

This only worked for me twice, but it never worked for me again. Still looking for alternative solutions.

On 12/10/2014 at 0:52 PM, snakebiteil said:

hey guys,

i have a problem with my Y510P,

i have flashed the modified bios and vbios for my sli version of the laptop,

everything worked fine until i changed a value called "reset time" on my second graphic adapter in bios, i set it to 300ms to see if it might help me fix my hanging problem with sli on,

i also changed the option to always use the second graphic adapted to "enabled"

after that the laptop booted to windows, i started up a game and after a few minutes it hanged and never booted again.

when i hit the power button the keyboard lights up and it responds to light change but the screen wont come up and it doesn't boot to windows.

also, when i connect or disconnect my charger it does a "beep" sound.

anyone have any ideas on how to fix the issue?

or am i dealing with a possibly dead laptop?

and any idea on whether i can try to claim warranty with a modified bios?

I made the same mistake as you and I'm in the same situation as you. However, I may have found a temporary solution.

After Calling Lenovo Tech Support, they confirmed that the Y510P does have a CMOS battery. You'll need to take apart your laptop to access it.

Follow the YouTube Video pacopaco posted above up to the 12min mark of the video. After removing the keyboard and top assembly you'll see a battery soldered onto the board (Silver with Blue circle).

I unsoldered it from the board and waited 1-2mins and soldered it back onto the board and reassembled my laptop (Follow vid in reverse order). Make sure you have all ribbon cables plugged in.

In my test, I had my hard drive, CD drive (ultrabay) and SSD connected to the mobo. Nothing else. I left the laptop battery unplugged and the WLAN card disconnected from the mPCIe port.

I plugged in my external power cable to my laptop and turned on my laptop using the NOVO button (Side Button). Lucky for me, I was able to boot up and get into my windows OS.

After doing this fix I decided to reboot my laptop to get into the BIOS to reset it to default but I got the black screen again, so this isnt a permenant fix to resetting the BIOS. I had to repeat this method multiple times to be able to boot into my OS. The next chance I get, I'll try to get into my OS and run the bios flash program and get my BIOS back to stock. I'm sure flashing it back to 3.05 stock will resolve these problems.