Oper0n

I believe he is referring to the capacitive nature of the battery. Power engineering in laptops may rely on it to a lesser or greater extent. On some HP laptops I've used, the laptop won't turn on even if the AC is plugged in if there is no battery installed. You can power them on, then remove the battery and they will continue running. I've never tried using it for a long period of time this way so I can't comment on the stability, but it seems to me if they designed it so it can't be powered on without the battery in place, you may be taking a risk. Especially with dirty power.

Years ago I bought a syringe of IC-7 diamond and have used it faithfully during my numerous 6990M oven bakes until I finally gave up and got a 680M. I've always used the pea method with no spreading. Others have claimed poor removal, but I found it is just like removing gasket material when working on small engine. A nice flat quality razor blade used in a gasket remover tool keeps it from scratching or damaging the heatsink, 91% Isopropyl alcohol easily cleans off any remaining residue. The only empirical data I have is temps went down about 5 degrees from the stock compound when I re-pasted the 6990m with the Diamond for the first time. After that is was stable, but I never had it pasted more than 6 months because it kept needing solder reflow.

FYI, those of you who fly Alaska (and other airlines): I happen to know someone at Astronics who developed the seat power systems being installed on Alaska's fleet now. Each seat has a 110V outlet that puts out a max of about 230W in addition to USB power. Pro tip is this: Power is distributed on a first come first serve basis per seat row. If you want to run your overhacked desktop replacement gaming laptop and suck up all the juice, make sure you are the first to plug into your outlet in your seat row. Don't buckle your belt, don't text, immediately plug in your laptop before you sit down. The first person to plug in per seat row gets as much of the power as you can draw. Any leftovers get sent to the 2nd person to plug in, then the 3rd person to plug in. If the system registers a draw on your outlet first in the seat row, you win. A dedicated 230W probably still isn't enough for some of the biggest power hog systems out there, but you can work with it!

Another thing to consider is if you want it to be portable or not. When I first got my P150HM, I shopped around for lappy coolers a bit and realized most of them would not fit in my laptop bag if I wanted to travel with it (Alaska has 230W power outlets on most planes now, game at max performance with all but the beefiest rig). Fortunately, being a 15" laptop, the P150HM had dimensions that allow it to just fit inside the Coolermaster U2 and both then will slide into a 17" laptop bag very nicely. Measure the dimensions of your laptop and shop with those a little. I liked the U2 because it is the right size for my laptop, but also had the capability to support additional fans that are very useful after I modded the case.

I have a P150HM and use the coolermaster U2 with an extra set of fans (4 total). After modding my case and adding some extra copper heatsinks like this guy: http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/1924-p150hm-gtx680m-yes-we-can-4.html#post31527, 10 C drops in temp... Alas, that was with my old 6990M that I had to keep baking to keep alive, I finally had enough and just upgraded to the 680m!