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ctoth

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About ctoth

  • Birthday 10/15/1977

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    Engineer at Csaba Technology Services LLC

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  1. Finally I went with a normal SATA 1TB m550, was used, but came from Mythlogic (spotted it on Amazon). - - - Updated - - - Sorry, I cannot find the builder any more.
  2. Since my last report I had temporary dead sub pixels on the lower part of the matte ChiMei panel, but I could easily massage them out! If one appears (usually the green or blue sub pixel gets stuck on, visible on black background), I just gently massage the close area in round circles. 2-3 circles heals the pixel. No kidding! - - - Updated - - - I talk about mSATA in another thread: https://forum.techinferno.com/clevo-reviews-owners-lounges/9600-p570wm-msata.html
  3. But some of those system builders offered mSATA in their configurator. So either they did the soldering in their shop or there's a rare mobo version exist where it's fitted? (or 3rd option: the configurator on the website is faulty)
  4. I'd like to see a 18.4" or 20" desktop replacement. Something like a successor of P570WM with a larger screen. I would like to have easy repairability, easy servicability, easy DIY upgrade with plenty of options. Open BIOS source and detailed service manuals. I also would like to have some backpack which can fit the laptop. And also: 2-3 mSATA sockets preferably with SATA III speed. - - - Updated - - - Well, I hear you, but with a thick bezel it's easier to upgrade to another panel: less chance that you gonna damage something, plenty of room for antennas on both sides and cables for the microphone and the camera. These all lead on the sides. It could be done in a smaller space, but it can be against serviceability.
  5. I want to upgrade my P570WM with mSATA, but I didn't see the mSATA socket soldered onto the motherboard. Is that possible, or am I looking at the wrong place? According to the photos it should be under the keyboard in the top left area: http://forum.notebookreview.com/attachments/wp_20150127_15_55_25_pro-jpg.120329/ I don't see anything there, not even a socket: http://www.sfvogt.de/CLEVO_P570WMx/mSATA_MB_R1.jpg Does anyone have some advice? Even if there was a socket there, someone would have to solder capacitors? **Official Clevo P570WM | P570WM3 / Sager NP9570 Owners Lounge** | Page 99 | NotebookReview How configurator companies (not all of them though!) offered mSATA? Did they solder capacitors in their shop? Mine's origin is from Pro-Star. How many versions does P570WM has? (Besides 3D and non 3D). How does Sager NP9570 differ from Clevo P570WM? So many questions! mSATA drivers are almost half price compared to regular ones, and I wouldn't really care about the fact that they'd run on SATA II channel (lower theoretical speed than SATA III). THX!
  6. Finally I bough Samsung 4GB modules, which were compatible with the ones I sold. I'm back to 12GB but at least it's stable.
  7. I'd like to thank again for any advices. Some updates on my journey. I successfully upgraded to 32GB and installed another 880M in SLI. 1. For the memory, I was fortunate, and the memory slot which is covered by the CPU was already filled, so I didn't have to remove it. 2. The GPU upgrade was harder, because I didn't have any instructions, most particularly the SLI cable looked way to short. I tried to figure out searching for photos. Finally I ruled out everything and left with the only possible way, which still causes the cable to drastically bend on one end: you need to lead the cable *below* the primary GPU, between the black protective foil and the mobo PCB. I had to lift up the primary GPU for that (obviously). I made a video of it, but it's so huge I don't have space to edit it. Since then I've found another photo where the SLI cable is more visible, if we can say that. You don't see the cable much because it goes under everything. Other than that the kit I bought from eBay contained everything. One other gotcha: they supplied IC Diamond paste, which is absolutely unusable. It's too rigid and viscose, and it doesn't stick at all. It's impossible to nicely distribute it. I had to use a noname paste I had in hand. 3. Since then I also replaced the glossy LCD to a Matte type. I was shy for a long time, but I sometimes work in a library or environment where the reflection was somewhat disturbing. The fun part: all the sellers on eBay or Amazon warn you, to make sure that the panel you buy is compatible. Ok, so what panel will you get *exactly*? They don't tell you in advance, whatever they'll have in stock. (clap) Nice! So they cannot tell you what it will be, but make sure it's compatible. They are not responsible for anything. And they often don't even tell you if it'll be glossy or matte, which is really WTF category. I gambled (this is how I live dangerously) and ordered one where they could at least guarantee it'll be matte, and it wasn't in the $90-$130 price range but rather $60-$70. Cheaper price can be risky though. Who knows if it's used, or refurbished. Will there be any dead pixels? I pried open the LCD frame after removing the rubber studs and screws. Discovered that I had an AUO B173HW01 V4 installed, which is the high gamut screen. It's TN, and only 6bit color channels (but that's common). AUO B173HW01 V4 Overview - Panelook.com The new panel is a ChiMei Innolux N173HGE-L11 CHIMEI INNOLUX N173HGE-L11 Overview - Panelook.com When I saw that both are fortunately WLED backlit, and 3.3V, I was more confident it'll be compatible. The panel didn't came with any cable (literally nothing besides the panel), but fortunately it was 100% compatible, exactly the same place. I didn't have to disconnect any antennas, microphone or camera cables, just the panel cable on the LCD side. Cool. The ChiMei actually has 1:650 contrast ratio as opposed to the high gamut AUO's 600. According to the data sheets. And faster response time, but it's not a gaming machine anyway, so I don't care. I didn't see any dead pixels. Looking at the pricing of the exact ChiMei model, it's in the $60 range, so don't pay $90-$130 for it. 4. I went through hell finding an exact match Delta 330W PSU to my existing one. Almost all f*cker sellers just sell sh*tty OEM, noname compatible cr*p. Some of them almost look like the same, but you put them on a scale and they are lighter then the Delta. That means probable smaller capacitors, less heat sinks and protection circuits according to my magical sphere. I sent back 3 of those cr*ps right away to various sellers. I made the bad decision to go for a webshop, which turned out to be based in China. I'm still running for my money, there's a PayPal issue going on in the resolution center. $200. It's a lot, but noone will pay me for my extra time, and shipping costs. The Chinese webshop titled the item as original genuine Delta too. What I got from there wasn't even an OEM, it was completely unmarked, and looked like the 300W Chicony, probably a crappy copy of that. (They asked me: but does it work? I told them I don't care if it works, it is not a genuine Delta what I ordered, not to speak that it's probably 300W). Finally I ordered a Delta from Germany through Amazon. Guess what: I exactly got what was on the photo, a genuine Delta. Looks like Germany doesn't screw you around. Sad that I had to order overseas, it arrived surprisingly quickly. 5. Last thing: I want to upgrade with an SSD. Two bays are filled with Crucial M550 256GB. But I spotted on the market that the 512GB mSATA Crucial M550 is in a very good price. I was very excited, until I found forums where people reported that they successfully soldered extra capacitors for stability of their mSATA. That doesn't sound good. Soldering capacitors? o_O I was hoping that I'll have an mSATA socket, because Pro-Star's (1st owner bought the laptop from there) configurator offered mSATA too back in the day, and Pro-tar is supportive of mSATA. The socket would be under the keyboard on the top left area according to the photos. In my case it's not even about capacitors, but the socket itself is not soldered on to the mobo ((, so I'll have to fill the 3rd SSD bay. Or is there any magic equipping mSATA? I've soldered GPS and thermostat in the past successfully, but those were rather $200 value and less. Less complex connections. Not a $3000+ laptop. I probably don't want to screw up my machine mocking around. It's almost perfect now. More noisy than my Clevo P180HM unfortunately. I know that the CPU is desktop, but I hoped that 22nm Ivy Bridge will keep the fans low. I don't torture it.
  8. I wonder if anyone runs P180HM with 24GB here. What are good modules for that for PC12800? Some websites and manuals suggests that actually 12GB is the maximum P180HM can take. In some forums I saw hints that some people have 24GB. Brief history: I originally ordered mine with 12GB and not so long ago I needed more. I bought the best 8GB modules I could find in BestBuy (+most expensive, PNY). I needed to go to two separate BestBuys in town to collect three modules, but my laptop didn't even boot with them finally. When I was in the Bay Area for a visit I stopped by at Fry's Electronics and I bought the best (+ most expensive) available there (Patriots). BTW, I needed to go to 2 separate Fry's again to collect 3 modules. I was better this time and I popped them in right in the store and let the memtest run a little (the first Fry's had 3 modules actually but I sorted out one which my P180HM saw as a 2GB module - 2 modules were 1R, and the outlier module was 2R). Then in the hotel I ran a little more memtest, but I was so tired I didn't let it run all the way, I wanted to run memtest extensively while on a cooler. Some weeks after that I experienced mysterious crashes. Then I did run an extensive memtest finally and I saw that the modules failed in the 7th and 8th test (mistake no.1)!!! Couldn't return them to Fry's and I already sold the old 4GB modules (mistake no.2)! I desperately tried to order at least 4GB modules which work again in a trio. I went through more sellers with no luck, until I came across some modules which passed the test. Seems like P180HM is very picky. It not even needs 12800 CL11 1.35V modules, but it has to be PC3L (not just PC3). I'd still need more than 12GB sometimes in the future, so I wonder what modules would surely work. I wasted so much time (and almost tear and blood) for this, the laptop was down for two weeks after I found out the intolerance.
  9. 1. OK, that sounds standard. If I remove the rubber bungs, at least 1 out of 4 will fall out shortly and get lost 2. I really don't want to disturb the CPU if I don't have to. I'll see how it goes. 3. I saw it on photos, I was just wondering if the caddy will be there for the 3rd. (BTW, some sites allowed to configure 4 HDDS (besides the two mSATA and the optical bay), how did they do that? Did they have a caddy for 3 drives in the center?) 4. Well, for me SLI is important. Strangely I won't even overclock. I'm planning to buy extra PSU and converter box, and I try to play the safest way possible. If I'd configure on my own, I'd configure SLI GTX 780Ms, because it's the same as 880M just a little lower freq. It's about a software project I want to finish (besides full time work plus extra projects). I promised myself 3 years ago when I bought the P180HM that I wouldn't buy a new machine until I finish that project. After the P570WM appeared on the scene I regularly configured it for fun before falling asleep. Now as it is disappearing I need to move, since I feel that there won't be such machine any more. Probably a lesser model (like Clevo P377SM-A) would do it for me, but I just got obsessed with the P570WM. For the CPU I'll have i7-4820K. I'm happy about that: I don't want to set the house on fire. If I configured it, I'd get maybe a Xeon. I'll do some experiments running 4 or more VMs for example. It's not for gaming.
  10. Yes, I tried to upgrade my P180HM (I'll open another topic about that), 2 slots towards the bottom and one slot under the keyboard. I hope it'll be smooth. I don't like the part when I have to pry open the plastic cover of the indicator LEDs above the keyboard. Every time I fear I gonna break something. Thanks for the advice on the secondary GPU slot, I'll contact the seller. The photo shows an SLI bridge, but the title of the item is not a secondary kit, just an upgrade kit. Every laptop (even form the same model type) can be a surprise.
  11. My future (although I fear to say that since it's not shipped yet) P570WM was assembled by ProStar originally. The first owner configured the "Glare Type 90% NTSC Color Gamut Display" into it, is that the Super Glossy? In my current P180HM (Mythlogic) I have a glossy display, and I wouldn't be able to use it in a coffee shop. So if I was to configure one by myself, I'd select a Matte 120Hz type display. I looked at an Amazon listing and an ebay listing. None of them can even specify if it'll be a glossy or matte what you gonna get! o_O "You are purchasing a BRAND NEW 17.3" WUXGA (1920X1080) FULL HD Matte/Glossy LED-backlit screen. This glossy/anti-glare screen displayed sharp images and solid viewing angles. Even at more than 45 degrees to the left and right colors were still bright and colorful." The listings refer to 2 specific AUO panels: B173HW01 V.4, B173HW01 V.7 of which the V.7 doesn't even exist as far as my search turned out. One of the Amazon reviewers reported that he got a Chimei panel instead of an AUO. So my plan changed to the following regarding the display at this moment: if the screen is glossy but looks fine, I leave it alone.
  12. ctoth

    p570wm sli 980

    You GTX 780M solo has 100W TDP, I cannot find exact data for GTX 980M.
  13. ctoth

    p570wm sli 980

    I wonder how much the heatsinks cooling system can take two 980s in SLI. Sometimes configurator sites don't offer certain SLI configurations on purpose to avoid damage. So be careful.
  14. I'm in the process of buying a P570WM. Since it cannot be found any more in popular configurator sites, I'd need to perform some upgrades by myself. The second-hand machine I'm buying has glossy display, 16 GB mem, single GTX 880M. So upgrades would include: 1. Replace the super glossy LCD to a matte type 2. Upgrade 2x8 GB mem to 4x8 GB 3. Adding a 3rd Crucial m550 256 GB 4. Equipping an extra GTX 880M in SLI 5. Extra 330W AC + converter box I wonder if any of performed any of these upgrades. Questions about those: 1. LCD: how to open up the LCD assembly cover in a nice way 2. Mem: where are the 4 slots located. On photos I could peek only one of them. I'll do that upgrade once I see what memories it currently has, and try to buy two exact matches. 3. If the laptop only has 2 SSD configured, does the chassis contain the empty HDD bracket under the battery for this? I hope configurator companies don't take it out, because I cannot find it anywhere 4. That's the most serious upgrade besides the LCD. Will this work at all (can the BIOS handle it if it can handle a single 880?), can there be any pitfalls? If the laptop I'm buying had extra copper heatsinks configured, can I get extra heatsinks somewhere for the upgrade card? Does upgrademonkey kit contain the SLI bridge too? (the photo shows it, but the kit is not a secondary GPU kit just a regular kit). 5. PSU: can it be a problem if the upgrade PSU is not an exact match of the current? Any advice is welcome. BTW, although I'm not a technician, but I have fixed GPS units, watches, thermostat controllers and laptops in the past. My biggest laptop fix was a motherboard replacement, which basically mean gutting out everything and putting it all back together. I'm still nervous about the P570WM since it's quite expensive (and impressive) piece of monster. So I don't want to screw up anything. I'm not technician Thanks
  15. I'd wish for a Clevo model with the capabilities of P570WM but with 18.4" display like the P180HM I have now. It's lame that Clevo doesn't have now a 18.4" display model
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