Jump to content

jlbrewster

Registered User
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jlbrewster

  • Birthday 04/13/1972

jlbrewster's Achievements

Curious Beginner

Curious Beginner (1/7)

10

Reputation

  1. OK, so after trying it again, I can see that the BIOS has been updated! (I think I forgot to type "new" after the bios name when I typed the flash code). I was able to install the new wifi (Intel 7280) card and more than double my speeds over the 140mb/s dog that Lenovo thought was adequate.. I would encourage anyone with errors to carefully read the directions again, there are at least two places where SVL7 has already provided the fix, you just need to run it at the right time. Here are the steps I used (credit: RedRagnarok - I just made them clearer): I have Lenovo Y580 with i7-3240M, 16GB RAM, SSD Samsung EVO840 (250GB), HDD 1Tb, Windows7, BIOS v.8.00 (5DCN89WW). 1. Backup your bios (BiosBackup.bin)-see the first page (I used the Windows method from CLI) 2. Fix your modded BIOS: Put these files in a single folder on your computer (Y580-Y480_BiosFix.exe, fparts* v800.bin. extract BIOS fix). 3. Run Y580-Y480_BiosFix.exe (or the fix for your version) while still in Windows (it's a Windows program only) 4. Copy all these files to your Flash Drive (you don't need BIOS fix, b/c it's a Windows Program): - v800Fix.bin (your modified, fixed BIOS) - fparts (*if you fixed Error 104 with the modified fparts file, make sure and use the same one) - fpt - prr2 (Boot into DOS) 5. Run PRR2.exe (it should say ready to flash) 6. Flash BIOS with v800Fix.bin (I got a truncation error the first time, hit enter to proceed, and it said success, but for some reason the BIOS didn't update. I tried it again with just a couple of "doesn't exist" warnings (that needed no input) and it was successful again (but this time the BIOS was updated). I also changed the setting in my old BIOS to BIOS rollback: enable (but I doubt that did anything as far as the update process is concerned). (I can't speak for licensing info, since I ditched the OEM WIndows 8 long ago...) Hope this helps!! (One last thing I have to do is buy SVL7 a beer...)
  2. Just tried the procedure. I was very careful. It gave a warning about trucating the BIOS size, and I said OK. Then it said Flash successful. I rebooted to confirm that I could, but when I put the new wifi card in and tried to boot, it said "unauthorized wifi card. power off and remove..." Checking the BIOS version confirms that I still have the old version(!) Before I go back, I'm going to re-verify the contents of my Flash drive, and try again..
  3. Hi, I also have a 5dcn89ww BIOS. - I am curious why you are trying "recover" it? Did the procedure not work? (I am trying it now..) - When you make a backup of your BIOS, it's just a file. You can rename whatever you want. just take the flash drive to another computer (the library?) and simply rename the gibberish file to biosbackup, or something simple (I think DOS will only allow 16 char's). If you try to rename it in DOS, you will have to type the name like this (first 6 digits~1) for example, if my file is called supercalifragilistic, I would call it "superc~1" in DOS (mightbe easier to mount in Windows, and rename, though..)
  4. Sounds frustrating. I assume you have determined for sure that it is your signal that's dropping, not your internet? I had an old cable modem that kept re-connecting and causing the router to keep reconnecting so often that it crashed the router, causing loss of connection to my router (I mistakenly thought it was the router). Speaking of routers, I am thinking you might have better luck with a higher powered AC-Class router? (not sure what you're running now?). I have an Asus AC1600, and love it. At least you should have dual band, if you want good range. That 7260 is a really good card (I just upgraded to that card myself). I'm not sure if you will find anything better (although the TP-Link looks like a nice try). Another thing you can try is to put your router as high up as you can (making a small shelf for it and mounting it with drywall anchors isn't that hard). Also, make sure and aim those router antennae in the direction of your problem room (even if through walls). You might also consider a repeater/signal booster, which would be less than the cost of a new router (and fairly easy to setup). Commonly, you would plug this into a hallway power socket, and give it your main router config's. If you have lathe and plaster walls, you will almost certainly need some kind of repeater to get the signal around corners.
  5. If your data is extremely valuable, spend the time and try as many tools as it takes. Sometimes the third tool you try will see your data. (You couldn't pay anyone to spend the number of hours it takes to do this though). I have had good luck on Windows with both ZAR (Zero Assumption Recovery) and Active@ products in the past. Acronis has some competent tools as well. I have also had good luck on Linux when all else fails (usually with mount issues, but there are some free Linux tools that are pretty powerful, if you have a friend who runs Ubuntu, or something). ((Maybe the files weren't actually deleted? If you went from Mac to PC, there is a known corruption issue (files are gone?) that is easily fixed by running scandisk on Windows, and letting it fix any errors. This will also make the files visible again on Mac.)) As long as a new partition table has not been written for the SD, then your chances are pretty good of recovering your files.
  6. Although I enjoyed the innovative world, excellent plot and graphics, I found this experience to be truncated, and really more like a movie than a game. I was reminded of those choose-your-own-adventure books that really only had one ending, but there were a few paths you could take to get there. I didn't play it again and again to see if this was even true. But then I'm not the type to watch movies over and over again. My vote is for the original Bioshock.
  7. If you liked Mass-Effect, I have found WarFrame to be pretty enthralling.. A bit less of a plot, but there are tons of missions to keep you interested (unlike the disappointment felt by the all-to-short Mass-Effect series. Although, you are right, the stories were starting to get good. Another one that comes to mind is Lost Planet. Definitely worth checking out. Last time I had a crisis of deciding what game to play, I went with Just Cause, which is a really cool if you blowing stuff up "Just 'Cause" although you'll lose interest after completing the core mission. Have you tried Borderlands? Not a huge favorite of mine, but I enjoyed it, and still play from time to time (I'd say it's a good one to have, along with Left4Dead). And if you've never tried Portal, for a very different, but mind-blowing game experience, the Portals are among my favorites.. (I'm sure you've enjoyed Fallout 2, 3 and New Vegas?)
  8. I believe that these lower settings will be need to be supported by your display, which your system OS will detect. Anything below 60Hz is rare and not often supported by most displays. Curious why would you want to lower this setting? (The higher refresh rates provide higher quality display - the reason why LCDs went to 120Hz and 240Hz in recent years).. Personally, my sensitive eyes would notice a 49Hz refresh rate blinking, just like some Fluorescent lights. This link has some interesting info: www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html
  9. My advice, especially if you are a on a budget would be to focus on the best processor you can afford, while leaving money for the other stuff. I like the advice of i5/8GB. That should give you ample performance, while hopefully providing room for upgrade later. With that software you will want some kind of GPU, but you'd be surprised what you can get for not much money (you can always upgrade or go dual/Sli/Crossfire later, if you need the 3D responsiveness). Speaking of upgrade, you will find the ability to upgrade in the motherboard, and specifically the chipset. Look for a motherboard that also supports faster CPU/FSB and you will save money in the long-run. Buying a quality motherboard is very important, but if budget does not allow, that can be targeted for upgrade later. What you need is the processing to get work done for now. (Sometimes you will find a great value in used or bundled systems that have a few quality pieces to start with).
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.