Harjan

i was also only getting around 25-30 fps on allmost all settings. And that was on a asystem with a Phenom II x6 and 2 r9 290's in crossfire..... And it seems like it is no going to be fixed either, Thanks Ubi$oft......

running a 4930k @ 4,5Ghz stable with 1.4v on the Vcore. It doesn't seem to go any higher, while the temps on (100%) load are around 60c-65c on my watecooled system with all the fans set to the lowest possible setting (500rpm) But that could be because i'm running 64GB Quad-channel 2133Mhz corsair dominator Ram. Or am i doing something wrong/forgetting something ?

will this bios also work for this mod ? : OccamRazor's advanced GK110 OC guide (Click to hide)This guide applies only for 780/Titan, if and when we have support for the 780Ti, this guide will be updated to reflect the changes! DISCLAIMER: This is my view and my approach of the complicated and wonderful art of Overclocking, if you find any way to improve my guide i will be open to change it and give you credit for it! I take no responsibility for the usage of this information or hardware damage! Use this at YOUR OWN RISK! First of all dont forget you´re on ***! You should have OC in your blood! I WILL BE USING (AB) AfterBurner AS ITS THE ONLY SOFTWARE THAT ALLOWS SOFTWARE VOLTAGE CONTROL AND MONITORING Download and install the latest AB here: MSI Afterburner 4.0.0 Final Download Now, youll have to setup AB properly: Go to settings » general and tick the "enable hardware control and monitoring", "unlock voltage control" and "unlock voltage monitoring" and click "OK" at the bottom fo the window! Now download my: NEW ED´s VOLTMOD / LLC GUIDE and follow the guide to the letter including the LLC HACK as described in my guide also with a link to download! Now a word of warning: ON AIR DO NOT GO ABOVE 1,24V WITH LLC DISABLED: "Please do NOT GO ABOVE 1,212v WITH SOFT VOLT MOD AND LLC DISABLE! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)No air cooler has the capacity to dissipate the heat load out of the VRM area when OC with overvoltage! And you cannot know the VRM´s temps, only do an estimate calculation based on your power draw! HEAT KILLS! Exactly what happens depends on how excess the power is. It may be a sustained cooking. In this case, the MOSFET gets hot enough to literally unsolder itself. Much of the MOSFET heating at high currents is in the leads - which can quite easily unsolder themselves without the MOSFET failing! If the heat is generated in the chip, then it will get hot - but its maximum temperature is usually not silicon-restricted, but restricted by the fabrication. The silicon chip is bonded to the substrate by soft solder and it is quite easy to melt this and have it ooze between the epoxy and the metal of the body, forming solder droplets! Excess heat leads to short circuit! Usually, a MOSFET will fail short first. This is because excessive heat will, by diffusion, mix the dopants enough to create a good conductor instead of the p-n or n-p barriers that were there originally. Often, the gate oxide will be taken into the diffusion, too, causing a short between all three terminals. Only if the short circuit current after this first mode of failure is high enough to blow the bond wires or the entire transistor, there is an open circuit. Another forgotten thing is the voltage controller NCP4206 itself! its rated for a maximum operating temperature of 85C and again no way to measure the temperature! Please guys PLAY SAFE! ON AIR MAX VOLTAGE: 1.212v + 0.025 (+-) 0.006v = 1.24v(+-) Keep the fan high and dont let temps go over 70/75C and even this is with a pinch of salt! " Now that you have your friendly warning, lets go on and OC your "Beast" GK110! You have in AB five(5) sliders: Core Voltage (mV), Power Limit (%)(click to prioritize power limit or temperature limit), Core Clock (Mhz) , Memory Clock (Mhz) and Fan Speed (%) As you all know OC involves clocks and voltages and one important thing: Silicone lottery! Your card will go up in clocks up to a point where voltage cannot give you more speed unless you move to other cooling setup! As i always say: " There is no crap card, there is different cards requiring different voltages to reach different clocks depending on the chips capabilities" My 2 Watercooled Titans ASIC 69%,@1,212v@1150mhz reach @1,40v@1400mhz! First things first: Flash your card with the appropriate bios supplied by your in-the-house-modder my Brother Skyn3t! It will unlock your voltage up to 1,212v, disable boost and increase your power target up to 200% to enable your card along with voltage to up those clocks to where you want them! Titan Owners Club ( AKA T.O.C. Dinosaurs Club, thank Skupples for that Dino accronim ) : http://www.**************/t/1363440/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club/0_100#post_19353582 780 Owners Club: http://www.**************/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club/0_100#post_20027616 Now download EZ3flash: EZ3FLASH VBIOS TOOL W/SAVE FUNCTION and my guide on how to use it: ED´S EZ3FLASH GUIDE Now, you have your bios flashed, unlocked voltage, no boost and have a juicy power target of 200% to play with! ON AIR - Set your voltage in AB to 1,212v (Remember that with LLC disabled you have an increase of 0.025v ending with 1,24v), prioritize temperature on the Power Limit tab , increase your fan to minimum 70% and increase it as you see temps go up, dont let it go above 80C! PT SLIDER TO 100 only increase it if you are having throttling clocks and hitting 100% PT (More on this later ) Start by increasing +100mhz in the Core Clock tab, leave the memory at +0 for now, go play your favorite game or bench (I advise to use FarCry3 for clock testing along with Metro LL and 3Dmark11 you can use also Tombraider benchmark as many people have said its very stressing (not me! ) ) If you find your new increased clocks are stable through your tests, go ahead and increase another +50mhz to the Core Clock and so on until you crash, freeze or start to have artifacts, then back down 10mhz and test again! REMEMBER IT IS STABLE FOR YOU WHEN IT DOESNT CRASH IN YOUR GAME/BENCH, you´ll find that the word stable is dynamic and not static as it will vary from game to game and bench to bench, unless you´re benching and of course you´ll need high memory clocks, but as there is no way to increase memory voltage and depends on memory and your chip´s memory controller your millage will vary! Before you start to whine about "Hey what about the 13mhz increments, youre not doing in in the guide!" The values i suggest are figurative and you can try the accurate values you want of course, more on the 13mhz here with my Brother´s explanation: http://www.**************/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club/13800_100#post_21206343 You can create profiles for your favorite games and benches in AB: Now that you found your sweet spot between core clock and voltage, start increasing your memory OC with +50mhz at a time (I advise to test with Crysis 3, Metro LL) when it starts to give you artifacts back down 50mhz and you got your MAX core with your MAX memory OC, Now i MUST emphasize that if you're on a single monitor you wont see much improvement in FPS and it might impair your core clock speeds as it will crash your card and you might blame your core when its the memory crashing your card! IF you have a 4K monitor or multi monitor then yes you will see an improvement in smoothness rather increase in FPS, so, OC your core first and after your memory! What?!?!? Its not enough?!?!? You want more? Ok! But you have to get wet... ON WATER- Now that you have your brand new EK waterblock (I dont have to tell you its the best to cool your card´s VRM´s right? ) installed and ready to rumble, Crank that voltage to 1,300v, (remember its +0.025v landing you on the 1,330v area) set your core clock to 1200mhz, leave your memory at +0 and test it (Again FAR CRY 3 and METRO LL or 3DMARK11) increase core clocks until you start having crashes! AGAIN REMEMBER IT IS STABLE FOR YOU WHEN IT DOESNT CRASH IN YOUR GAME/BENCH, keep the temperature prioritized as your card´s under water and you have no temperature worries so with that free the power draw! NOW lets talk a little about PT as it will become a challenge to understand it as it varies from card to card due each chip´s design; You might have shutdowns because you set your PT too high! when you set your PT to the MAX and give enough voltage and clocks to the card you will have spikes in the current (Amperage) and your PSU if its not Single Rail it will EXCEED the 25/30A most Multi rail PSU´s have on the 12v PCIe and trip your PSU OCP (Over Current Protection) IMO you only should increase your PT if you are seeing throttling clocks and hitting 100% PT! Now go for the memory OC, same applies as above IMO you should not care much about memory unless you bench or have 4K or multi monitors! Wait.. What? still not enough?!?!!?!? Woah! You´re tough as nails and have steel balls! alright then: OVER THE BOARD: Get the Zawarudos tool: ZAWARUDOV3 AfterBurner15/16 REMEMBER NOT TO HAVE THE VOLTAGE IN AB SET TO "AUTO" AS IT WILL RESULT IN A BSOD! Enter your voltage as a 4 digit number Remember that actual voltages are always 0.025v higher due to the LLC mod being enabled: 1400 = 1425 which is 1.425v due to LLC After you've clicked the apply button and you're sure your volts are correct head over to your Afterburner program: Then all you need to do is move your power target down one then back up one to make the apply button click-able. Then just click the apply button and monitor the change using Afterburners graphs to verify it's worked. Now you have your own personal nuclear plant in your own house! running my titan's on water and wanting to see how they will perform at 1.3V