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CYGNUX

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About CYGNUX

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  • Birthday 11/04/1992

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  1. Thanks, I'll try that then, but I'll not desolder the CMOS battery if it doesn't work as I don't have the tools or the skills to do that, and people already did that with no luck, as posted here: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-P-Y-and-Z-series/Y510P-Y410P-Undervolted-bricked-FIX/td-p/3272854 EDIT: IT LIVES! @Klem I followed your instructions (without the CMOS step) and it worked!, I don't have words to thank you, please send me a bitcoin wallet or paypal email through MP so I can send you a small donation, you deserve it. I really think it should be a warning on the main post and your steps to unbrick the laptop because I didn't find any way to unbrick the laptop on the whole Internet.
  2. @Klem I'll try this in a while, but where is the CMOS battery connector?, isn't the battery just soldered on the motherboard?
  3. Hello guys, I really needs some help, today I was going to try to undervolt my CPU though Intel XTU but before that I went to the BIOS to disable hyper threading, then I saw the same options to undervolt the CPU on the BIOS then I said, why not, should be better than use XTU to do it, then I brick my Y510P ;(. I have read there is no way to unbrick from this issue, not even removing the CMOS battery, only one guy found a solution by installing another CPU (same socket, different model) and that worked, but right now I'm not sure if my CPU is completly dead or changing the CPU's is only to reset the BIOS settings, also the cheapest CPU I found on Amazon with the same socket is at $69 (without shipping, I'm not even on the US). So my questions are: Isn't there any way to unbrick / reset BIOS on this laptop from undervolting? Is my CPU completly dead? Do you know where can I find a cheaper CPU (Socket G3 / FCPGA946) Thanks
  4. Has been a while since I open this thread but I've decided to wait and get better components, I made the purchase some days ago but it may take up to one month to arrive (international shipment). CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor [$360.58] CPU Cooler: Corsair H110 94.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler [$119.08] Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard [$219.34] SSD: OCZ Vertex 460 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive [$85.28] GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card [$374.49] Case: Corsair C70 Military Green (Green) ATX Mid Tower Case [$139.09] Case Fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition (2-Pack) 63.5 CFM 120mm Fans [$34.97] Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5 Grams [$8.33] [Excluding Mouse, Keyboard and Headsets] Also these parts that I already have: PSU: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply HDD: 1TB Hitachi Hard Drive RAM1: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory RAm2: Unknown 4GB Memmory As far as I know with this config I can play games like Battlefield 4 at 1080p in Ultra quality at 60-80fps, which is enough, and for now I just want to play mostly Final Fantasy XIV: ARR at Maximum on 1680x1050p but I may upgrade my screen to a 1080p later. I've decided to spend a lot (maybe too much) in cooling because is VERY hot where I live and right now my air conditioner is broken so... more heat :[. Thanks again for you help Conker, you where really helpfull, I'll update this thread again when I get the parts and build the PC .
  5. The case is just a generic case, I don't want to spend too much more than 470$, I just want to play FFXIV at constant 60fps, I'm not planing to overclock the CPU or the GPU either. It's a hard decicion because seems that I have to buy a new motherboard compatible with the latest socket, so I can upgrade it later. About the power supply, I'm not sure if you mean that I can't use it with GTX 760 SLI if I don't choose the correct motherboard?, because as you say I can use 8+6pin for one and Molex to PCIe connector for the other, I've never used a motherboard that uses any extra connectors for power. Which motherboard should I choose if I want to keep my current power supply and use GTX 760 SLI? (the cheapest one).
  6. Case: -Cheap one- PS: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALYOPSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. Nice, thank you, you help me a lot , at the end I'll spend more than I though but I think it's worth
  8. Awwwww, any suggestion for the motherboard? any cheap mobo it's OK for me, I mean, I don't see too much difference in a 30$ motherboard and another one for 200$.
  9. Oh I paste the same link twice, these two are the correct ones: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CO8TBQ0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2M1IJJOHVJPDC&coliid=I1OX2JLQEO9LZP Amazon.com: Intel Core i7-4790K Processor (8M Cache, up to 4.40 GHz) (BX80646I74790K): Computers & Accessories I've never used AMD CPU's or GPU's, also I want to use the Shadow Play feature from NVIDIA.
  10. Hey there!, I'm planning to upgrade the hardware to my desktop PC, I want to upgrade just the GPU but my CPU is too old and it will be a bottleneck so I'll have to buy a new one, these are my current specs: CPU Intel Core i3 2100 @ 3.10GHz 56 °C Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology RAM 12,0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 532MHz (7-7-7-18) Motherboard ASRock H61M-HVS (Socket 1155) Graphics 1024MB NVIDIA GeForce 9400 GT (XFX Pine Group) For the CPU I'm between these two: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CO8TBQ0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2M1IJJOHVJPDC&coliid=I1OX2JLQEO9LZP Amazon.com: Intel Core i7-4790K Processor (8M Cache, up to 4.40 GHz) (BX80646I74790K): Computers & Accessories But the i7-4790K needs a new motherboard and I'm not sure if it's worth 27$ more and a new motherboard for that extra performance, I don't want to spend that much on the CPU. As for the GPU I wanted to buy this one: Amazon.com: EVGA GeForce GTX 750Ti Superclock w/G-SYNC Support 2GB GDDR5 128bit, Dual-Link DVI-I, HDMI, DP 1.2 Graphics Card (02G-P4-3753-KR): Computers & Accessories But it seems "cheap" and with not enough power, also doesn't support SLI to upgrade in the future. So I think I'll go for this one: Amazon.com: EVGA GeForce GTX760 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 2GB GDDR5 256bit, Dual-Link DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI,DP, SLI Ready Graphics Card (02G-P4-2765-KR) Graphics Cards 02G-P4-2765-KR: Computers & Accessories It supports up to 3-way SLI. What do you guys think?
  11. How do you see this one? Amazon.com: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5 Grams: Computers & Accessories Also I can't decide between those two cooling pads, which one do to recommend? Amazon.com: Targus Lap Chill Mat for Laptop, Black/Gray (AWE55US): Electronics Amazon.com: Cooler Master NotePal X-Slim Ultra-Slim Laptop Cooling Pad with 160mm Fan (R9-NBC-XSLI-GP): Computers & Accessories
  12. I didn't remove it because I saw that it has a hole in the center, so isn't touching the GPU.
  13. Thanks for the links, I'll try to get a cooling pad, for the compound I use a cheap one but was my only option and that one you recommend it's just toooooo expensive . Interesting... I'm not so sure, cut the plastic is forever but 10*C less sounds good, in my case I don't think it will make so much difference as I don't have a cooling pad yet.
  14. OK so I end up with this: I test a game for about 30 minutes (up to the red line) and this is the best I can get but only with the ultrabay GPU downvolted. Can this make any damage to the GPU?, also the only way I find to apply those settings on boot is by creating a shortcut and execute it at boot.
  15. I found this kind of "plastic" over the ultrabay GPU, I've never seen something like this on CPUs or GPUs, should I remove it?
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