rambomhtri

There you go: HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download I have the x64 version, and I uncheck the "update to BETA versions". Then you must go to Motherboard: I don't know, I've read a lot of different opinions about that. Some say that if you didn't buy a SSD model, then you don't have the interface M.2 welded to the Motherboard. And that's true. But I've seen a lot of users having that M.2 interface welded, with no SSD, cause they didn't buy a SSD version. So I think it's kind of random. All you have to do is take out the back cover and see it. Or you can use X-Rays, xD.

Hi, I have the Y510P, with the MoBo Intel HM86 and it has: Port 1 sATA III (6Gb/s), with the DVD reader/writer Port 2 sATA III (6Gb/s), with a sATA II (3Gb/s) HDD 1TB M.2 NGFF (sATA III too?), with a sATA III (6Gb/s) SSD 24GB for cache So it's more than probably that your Y410P has also 2 sATA III ports. I'd install the SSD in the main bay, and put in the DVD bay (HDD caddy) the HDD. You can download HWiNFO64, install it, and click in "motherboard" to see what interface your ports have. Also you can check the storage devices's interface.

Check my new thread, I'm not having good times with my Intel Wireless-N 7260. I don't know if it's the card, the Y510P's antennas, all the drivers... I'd like to compare the WiFi range of a 7260 in my laptop and in other laptop's. http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/6895-my-bad-experience-y510p.html

Hi, I bought this laptop because it was in October 2013 the best choice for me. It had a new i7-4700MQ Haswell, a powerfull GT 755M GPU that can handle any game, a FULL HD screen, 8GB of RAM, plenty of space, backlit keyboard, even a M.2 cache SSD to boost up the performance of the OS and some programs, and a new Intel Wireless-N 7260 card (300Mbps) PLUS Bluetooth 4.0. I like Lenovo/IBM, pretty solid devices. I trust on Intel (trusted...), I needed a powerful machine, so I purchased it. The first impressions were good, stunning screen, beautiful design, fasty fasty... I started to see some weak points: it's noticeable wider than any 15" laptop, Num Lock was not always activated at startup, really BAD touchpad, Dolby Home Theater v4 was not that great (stock drivers), the screen should be more stable (hinges should be tougher holding the screen unmovable)... Then I changed the touchpad driver by UltraNav one, HUGE difference, much better experience, much better features. Nice. Then I discovered the REAL DEAL of the Dolby Home Theater v4, when I installed the drivers from a Thinkpad driver's page. Much better sound, when watching films it makes a huge difference. Really a MUST-HAVE. Then I noticed that the wireless card wasn't that good. Intel Wireless-N 7260 has a shitty range, it is worse than any of my different laptops or smartphones. I don't really know if it's this WiFi card or if it's a Lenovo's fault. I've contacted to Intel and they say that if I have WiFi range problems, I have to ask Lenovo for a solution, and it's probably an antenna issue. Nevertheless, it was "good" enough, so I didn't care too much. In 5 months of use I've not had a WiFi problem at all, just lower signal than the rest of my devices. Well, sometimes there have been issues, yes, but I've solved them. I don't know if they were because of the antenna, or Windows 8.1 or the drivers. BTW, I've always been using generic drivers, and the latest ones, except audio drivers (Dolby) and Touchpad (ultranav). All was up to date, 7260, bluetooth, GPU... Then I noticed that Windows 8.1 was great, but it has some huge fails: WiFi interface (notification bar, lower-right corner) is pure pure pure SH*T, it's like I had a tablet, the menu, the lack of options (well, it has just like 2 options), the lack of information, the network scan... My Android smartphone shows more detailed information about networks than that. To see more detailed information, you gotta go to Control Panel, Networks, search WiFi card and right-click. Windows Store is just unbelievably bad, you can't clear installed apps, it's laggy, sloppy, and slow. Here again, Android's Google Play is WAAAY better than it. Then I've found 2 programs that are not too friendly with Windows 8.1, and it annoys me, and the admin notifications sometimes drive me crazy, but meh, more or less I love Windows 8.1 once you "delete" Metro screen and install Classic Shell and use this OS as W7. Then I discovered the Energy Management stunning option to improve the battery life SO much. It charges the battery to 60% and then it doesn't use it or charge it, so I have almost a brand new battery after 5 months. Then I find out that when I remove the battery, that options is reset. Then I find out that when you use the laptop without AC, it's bugged, cause it says that the battery is going to last 4h when you have 60% of the battery (surfing, YT, forums...), and then it lasts 1h, because the battery drains from 42% to 10% in less than 20 seconds. It's fixed with a battery gauge reset, which is done through Energy Management, and it lasts almost 6h after doing that (with 100% battery). But I think that the issue of the battery drain comes again after a full discharge of the battery, or at least the battery doesn't last as long as it should be. Really impressive battery life (for a normal use), but bad software management. Another issue I had was that when I turned off the laptop, backlit keyboard didn't turn off, and the laptop never shut down. So I had to press the ON/OFF button for a few second to force shut down. After a few weeks, it has never happened. It was a driver problem, I think. But the first real issues came: First, I had to restore my laptop because of a Windows Update KB2919355. I SWEAR that 890MB update is so messed up, it's a joke how corrupted it is. After 2 days contacting to Microsoft, even TIER 2 (the most expert agents of Windows support), controlling remotely my laptop, tried to fix the issue, and nothing. They said that I had to freaking RESTORE my laptop. Just because an update wasn't working. Great MS. As it was impossible to solve, I had to do it. BTW, their reply was "this error says that the update is corrupt, and we don't know how to fix it. It happens RANDOMLY, it's not your laptop, we've been facing this issue in other laptops". Randomly. Wow, Windows Update is now Kinder Surprise, you can update correctly or you can open the Kinder and corrupt your OS, hell yeah. Second, my WiFi range mysteriously is reduced (more than usual) to the router/modem's room. If I wasn't in the same room (where the signal was good-best and it worked nice), signal was poor and VERY unstable. I gotta say that my ISP replaced my modem 1 day ago before this occurred, but since every single device (3 laptop's with different OS, smartphones...) worked perfectly with it, it was a problem of my laptop. After trying out a lot of drivers, rolling back, original ones, the newest ones... I gave up and restored. I also tried Intel's PROSet utilities, and the same. Third, after restoring, I didn't install any software, first I checked my WiFi range, and it had changed to it's previous range (kind of what the hell, without touching anything but my laptop). I started to updating Windows 8.1 x64 through Windows Update, everything automatically and restarting when it asked me to, and BOOOM, after 49 updates, there it came that mother ***** corrupt update again and the same error again. Restore again, Windows update, fail again, that same update. Just about call Microsoft again, try one more time, restore, Windows Update, and worked, installed correctly. Now I'm facing a new problem. I've updated everything (drivers too) but Intel 7260 drivers and Bluetooth drivers of the same card (so I don't touch any thing related to the WiFi range, though latest drivers of both devices were working great days before my ISP replaced the modem). When I add a new device to my Bluetooth devices, a BSOD appears, restarts my laptop and DELETES my official, stock, original and untouched Bluetooth drivers. I go to device manager and there's no Bluetooth there. I install the latest BT drivers from Intel.com, and after restarting, device manager is still not showing any BT device. And those drivers are the ones I've been using for 5 months. May be they don't work If I don't update my 7260 card. But I'm not doing that. I've installed the drivers from lenovo.com, that are newer than the ones that come when I restore to factory status. Apparently, the issue is solved, cause I've added a device now. After sending some files and check that it's working, I delete the device and try to add it again. BSOD appears, I go nuts. After it has restarted, I check device manager and I see a Bluetooth error, that wasn't there the last time I checked. Windows error code 43. I restart, reinstall the web official drivers again, disassemble the back of the laptop, unplug the WiFi card (7260 where's the Bluetooth too), reconnect the 2 black and white wires, and FOR NOW it's solved. BTW, after 5 months, I've never had a problem with Bluetooth, though I've been using the latest BT drivers all the time: 17.X.X. Man, I don't know if it's Windows 8.1, hardware, Lenovo's software design... but I wish I don't have any other problem related to this laptop, ever. Some questions here: 1. The Wireless card antenna is in the same card or it's in the laptop? I've read that it's in the screen of the laptop. My point is, if the range problem is a antenna's issue, changing the card won't do anything. 2. With my BIOS v3.07, I can't change the Wireless card, right? I have to install a new version, isn't it?

I don't know where you play, but I have the exactly same model, Turbo Boost activated, everything stock, even I have also a wooden table, lol, and no extra stuff, no lift up, this is what I get: BF4: 78-86ºC. It is smooth 99% of the time, with high settings more or less, some ultra. CS Source: 70-79ºC, I think almost all the time in the low 70's. Everything ultra, AA, textures... I use Real Temp and GPU-Z to monitor temps. So something is definitely wrong with your laptop. Try those programs and tell us. Make sure you have the latest drivers. I had to uninstall both Intel and nVIDIA stock drivers to use the generic ones. Uninstall both through Device Manager , then install Intel's, and then Geforce Experience and let it download and install the GPU drivers for you. Make sure that you don't have any virus, or any background program that is consuming your laptop's resources. I remember that I had problems using CoreTemp, which monitors temps, and the laptop got hotter than usual. It was a Core Temp incompatibility, and I've never used it in this laptop again. Though I've used it in my previous laptop.

Yeah, playing games, even the 2014 heaviest ones, shouldn't put your Y510P over 86ºC. It also depends where you use the laptop, but in a "normal" situation, with no extra stuff, just the laptop itself and a table, that's what it should be. It's not necessary to buy a cooling pad, I've played BF4 in that "normal" situation and it's nice, sometimes a little excess of heat, but nothing your hands can't handle xD. Nevertheless, with a cooling pad the experience should be more comfortable. I have the mono GPU version, not SLI, but it really doesn't matter, temps are pretty much the same in both versions, because the ultrabay is far away the CPU and GPU. Both single and SLI have the same stress test temps and gaming temps, more or less. iamdark24, those temps are good, I'd like to know what do you get playing BF4 or NFS MW 2012, at the highest settings possible. With the stock thermal paste, you get more or less 85ºC and 81ºC respectively, in both CPU and GPU (welded one). The ultrabay GPU should be WAY cooler than the welded GPU. I get mid 90ºC's when I do a stress test, but playing games I never reach 90ºC's, playing games like Batman Origins, BF4, NFSMW 2012... it's always between 79-87ºC, both CPU and GPU. If you get more than 90's playing video games, something's wrong for sure, unless you play within your oven or in the desert.

Due to an Intel® Wireless-N 7260 problem (ultra low WiFi range, didn't find a solution in 3 days of intense searching), I've restored the laptop to factory setup. After 3 days using it, it seems that it's now fixed. But you know, as I'm used to its random activation, it's probably a matter of time that this bug strikes back. BTW, I'm not disabling Fast Startup because of this problem, it's like cure you leg cutting it off. I know you can hibernate, but it's not the same.

Yeah, that's because I've changed like 5 or 6 registry paths (KeyboardIndicator value's). Some of them had one of those numbers, the others the other one. I'll give it a try. Thanks, hope it works

Thanks, but in my case the numbers are: 2147483648 2147483650 Those were the numbers I found in the registry. I changed all of them to 2. And THAT change has done something, cause in the beginning it never turned on with lock num activated. According to you, I should change them by: 2147483650 2147483652 Is that right?

Wow, what? I've read thousand of times that "You must CHANGE the value, from, let's say, 20134124, to 2". So you say I have to plus 2 to the default number? In this case, 20134126? Thanks!

Throttling is when Intel Turbo Boost gets deactivated because of the high temperatures, 90ºC more or less. It goes from 3.4GHz to 2.4GHz. And it's really hard to notice in a game any difference, but if you're rendering videos, estimated time at the beginning is like 10 min, and after 1 minute of an i7 4700MQ with 4 cores at 3.4GHz, it throttles and estimated time is 14 or more. May be you notice the throttling in games that are beasts consuming CPU. One of them is BF4, and I never notice any slow downs, so if it throttles, I don't notice it. But I don't think so, because temps playing BF4 are like 80-85ºC. Those games you're playing are definitely no CPU consumers, so temps will be below 80ºC. You don't need a temp tracker, you need a frequency tracker. Well, if you monitor temps, you can say that CPU has throttled if suddenly temps go down 8-10ºC.

I don't think that 102ºC is the limit of the Intel Turbo Boost. When I'm rendering videos, if the i7 gets hotter than more or less 90ºC, it goes from 3.4GHz to 2.4GHz, and when you are using the i7 to the limit (rendering videos is one of the things that do that), it easily reaches 90ºC, so it deactivates the Turbo Boost always. They really should have worked more in the design and ventilation in this laptop, damn. This machine should have 2 fans and the air exit should be in the back of the laptop.

That's right, having SLI doesn't impact really in the temps of the Y510P, both models SLI and non-SLI reach like 95-98ºC in a stress test. That ASUS is really impressive. BTW, it's not 40-50% better, it's 20% better. You go from almost 100ºC in lenovo to 80ºC in ASUS. I think this is due to the 2 fans that have the ASUS model. Yeah, I'd loved it if Y510P would have 2 fans, and pointing to the back of the laptop, no to one side, or may be one to one side, the other to the back. But yeah, I said it wrong, there are 3 facts that really impact in the temps: -Number of fans, 1 per CPU/GPU is ideal. -Thickness of the laptop. -Design, how close CPU and GPU are.

No one said there is a problem playing BF4 and that kinda stuff. I just said laptop reaches 80-86ºC, which is logical since that game recommends to use a quadcore i7, so it pretty much suck almost all the power of it. And I don't think temperatures depends more or less in the price of a laptop. Lenovo could have done an Y510P thicker, not that thin, and it'd handle better temps and it'd be cheaper. You know, temps depends almost 100% in the thickness of the machine, you need thick laptops to dissipate all the heat correctly. tozarian, you can use RealTemp to moniter CPU and GPU temps and tell us how hot they get. Gaming it shouldn't go more than 86ºC. In certain applications that put the CPU to the limit, like video editing, it can reach middle 90's ºC.

Yeah, you can get low bench because of your graphic card, and that doesn't mean your laptop is put to the limit. Anyway, I think I found the explanation: Recommended CPU for BF4: an i7 quadcore at 3GHz or more. That means my laptop's i7 is almost all the time under Turbo Boost, from 2.4GHz to 3-3.4GHz. Recommended CPU for Metro 2033: Core 2 Duo at 3GHz or more, which requires way less CPU power. That CPU requirement is probably the reason BF4 goes 85ºC while Metro goes 75ºC.

Are you serious? So you say that with your GPU OC from 967 to 1150MHz you get 70-75ºC, and me with standard settings 980MHz I get 80-85ºC? That's really odd. Well, actually I don't know how heavy Metro 2033 is. You should play BF4 and see if you still get 70-75. May be I also get that temps playing Metro 2033, considering it's a 2010 game, and BF4 is one of the heaviest games of 2013, it could make sense.

Oh, I see. Then MAY BE that's the problem, cause GT 755M is clocked slightly higher than GT 750M: 980MHz vs 967MHz (I don't know if those 13MHz make that difference). I don't know if thermal paste is important on temps, but I'm thinking about re-paste the CPU with a High Quality thermal paste. If anyone can guarantee me that my temps with a new high quality thermal paste are going down like 8-10ºC, then it's worth it. Thanks for the reply!

No way, do you have the i7 4700MQ + single GPU 755M + 1080 version? If I play Need For Speed MW 2012, BF4 or Batman Arkham Origins, at max. settings possible in 1080 (which are pretty damn high), the CPU is always more or less 83-84ºC, and GPU like 81-82ºC. I got 70-75ºC when I'm playing games like Counter Strike Source at max. settings, Age Of Empires III at max. settings and games like that. Do you really got 70-75ºC playing extreme games like BF4? Of course, I'm supposing that you're not using any cooling pad, as me. Just standard situation, only the laptop in a table, no extra stuff.

What? Not, in the Stress Test I did (Prime 95+Furmark) the CPU was at 3.4GHz, 4 cores all the time, and the temperatures reached and passed 95ºC (I stopped the test after 15min cause there was no change since minute 10, but I think the hottest core would've reached 97ºC or so after an hour). The same with my single GPU GT 755M. No throttling at all. Since the CPU WORKS FINE under 105ºC, there's no way to be concerned about this temperatures in a STRESS test, that puts the laptop to the limit. I didn't use a cooling pad because it has no sense to monitor temps using extra ventilation. I did the test so ANYONE could do the same test and compare if the temperatures are the same as mine's. That's one of the MAIN points of a test, compare temps and see if yours is OK or if it has a problem. Playing games, which is the most stressful thing you can do, it handles from 78 to 86, which is decent. Of course I'd like it to be from 70 to 75, but anyways, they're temps that this laptop can handle. CPU and GPU are OK at those temps, users are the ones that are not OK with them, cause it's not too comfortable to use the laptop with high surface temps. Nevertheless, it's not this case, I mean, when playing heavy games it gets hot, but it's 100% usable and more or less comfortable, and that's it. By the way, people who have the i7 4700MQ and single GT 755M version: What temps yours Y510P's reach after 15min using Furmark and Prime95? Mine like 95ºC more or less in CPU and GPU.

Nope, there's a setting for the yellow USB2.0 ALWAYS-ON and some other things, but no Num Lock setting. Yeah, huge fail of the BIOS. Right now I've turned on the laptop and the Num Lock was activated. It's freaking random, I hate it.

Well, in a stress test it gets pretty damn hot. I have an i7 4700MQ and a single GT 755M, and they both reach 95ºC or even more. When gaming Need for Speed Most Wanted 2012, BF4 or Batman Arkham Origins, they both are from 78 to 86ºC. Of course, I've not used any cooling pad to test it, and Intel's Turboboost is activated. The vent area gets REALLY hot when gaming, you can't put your hand next to the air exit cause it burns. The keyboard sometimes can get a little hot in the WASD area, but it's not really uncomfortable. You can play games without any trouble, but I'd like it to be a little cooler. But you know, I've been playing for 4-5 h to BF4 and Batman AO and I've had no problem with the heat. It's a great laptop. Nevertheless, if a cooling pad can cool this laptop from 86º to 78º, it's highly recommended. I've not bought one cause they're big and they make noise, and it's not really really necessary. Cheers!

Hi, I have a lenovo IdeaPad Y510P, Windows 8.1 x64, BIOS v3.05 rev 3.7. I've used regedit to change every InitialKeyboardIndicatorslayout value to "2", cause there are like 4 or 5 of them. Now, when I restart the machine it automatically activates the Num lock, but not always, it's like random, it works 80% if the times. But when I shut it down, it activates the Num Lock much less often, like 10% of the times. So, how in the hell can I just make it work always? It seems a pretty pretty easy thing to configure, but this randomness is driving me crazy. Thanks!

Solved, I've installed the UtraNav driver and it works great. It was a driver problem, related with the default stock driver version.

Hi there, I have this exactly problem in my Lenovo Y510P. When I close the lid, everytime after exactly 2 minutes, the mouse starts to click. For example, if I hover the mouse over a .mp3 file, and then close the lid, after 2 minutes, the laptop starts to play it, as if I would had performed a double-click. It also zooms in-out in Chrome. I have the factory drivers of touchpad ELAN (the rest of the drivers are updated) and BIOS v3.05 rev 3.7. And talking about ELAN touchpad, I've found that Synaptics driver have a option to select a dead-zone. I'd like have that too, cause I don't want the click buttons to be a touch zone, but ELAN drivers don't have this feature. Can I install Synaptics or UltraNav, even though I have ELAN hardware? This last question is important because my laptop says " this driver is not recommended and your computer may stop working completely". So the "completely" thing doesn't attract me too much..." Thanks!