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Posts posted by deadsmiley
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The system I have bought was straight from the producer. Such high temps suprised me. I think that it is either really a warped heatsink or a matter of bracket not allowing heatsink to lie close enough a chip, but when I take the cooling off , you can see the place where the chip was. I have done repasting 3 times and it did not improve anything.
Being able to see where the chip was just means there was enough paste applied. It does not mean there is good contact between the heat sink and die.
Heat sink paste is designed to fill microscopic spaces between the heat sink and GPU. It is not designed to fill large gaps between them. To give you a rough idea of the scale i am speaking of, a "large gap" would be the thickness of a human hair. Actually that would be a very large gap, in my opinion.
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are you using 2.4 ghz band or 5ghz?
There are infinite posts about this card on internet. Trust me, I had to do magic with my computer for making this card barely work. Recently, a friend bought an msi g60 ghost pro and he had exactly the same problem.
He was very mad about it and wanted to return the laptop just because he went home, started a lol game, and ping was going up and down like crazy making himself unable to even play a single game.
Not everyone is able to research and fix problems as maybe you and me do. He was not even willing to update the drivers. He was very upset for investing 1.7k in a laptop and not being able to even whatch a youtube video as he was doing with a 300$ shitty laptop next to him.
It has been proved, and Intel just released a beta driver for it,(after a year of many other driver updates not fixing the problem) and still problems persist.
Has to deal with 2.4 ghz band and HT mode. This card has been made for brand new wifi conections, but not for old ones!
Willfully refusing to fix a known problem with a driver update?
Intel just released a beta driver update. (Your words.)
So did he update his drivers or not? Your post contains conflicting information.
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My p177sm also goes up to 93°C. Which is weird because the seller repasted before shipping it.
I ordered some mx-4 and will try to see if it was from the pasting job, the warped sink sounds hard to fix...
It doesn't mean the seller did a good job.
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It sounds like it is a used system? If so, clean the fan and heat sink fins. Repasting the GPU is a good idea. If that doesn't work you probably have a warped heat sink where it contacts the GPU die. In that case you need to sand it to get it flat. I did this for my 880M and got a 10c drop in temps.
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I m using 340.52. Should I rollback to 337.88 before I flash mod vbios for my 880M?Or I can flash it right away? Thank in advance.
No, it doesn't matter.
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I've sent you pm.. thanks a lot for kind offer..
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PM replied.
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340 drivers are not worth upgrading to anyway. Rule of thumb with nVidia drivers lately - don't update if everything works. Those drivers aren't even faster than the 337.88Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
337.88??? Luxury! I am still using 327.23 and it drink it from a rolled up newspaper!
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94c is waaay to hot for your GPU.
I have a single 880M and don't get above 77c while gaming. But, I have done some cooling mods to get there.
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Hey guys, where can I find stock vbios for my GTX880M? appreciate your help. Currently I am using mainboard P15SM-A/SM1-A
I have the stock vbios from my P170SM-A. It should be the same. Shoot me a pm and I will send it.
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My brothers system I helped him build has a Super clocked 780TI and it shutdown the whole system on him gaming till we changed the default fan profile for the gpu through the Evga utility. Once I had it full fans way before 90c it never hit 90's for him again. The shutdowns have stopped and have not returned been months trouble free. What could be happening is it is going even higher than that temp for even only a second and then hitting a thermal shutdown safety like my brother's rig. He has a great 1000watt PSU so power wasn't the issue. I hope this helps. Try to raise the fans to higher speeds at lower temps ie preemptive of the heat building up. I don't remember but around 60c I got a decent fan speed going then 70 higher and somewhere in the 80s I have it hit full speed so 90c isn't being hit anymore. The power of the PSU will do the same thing as stated above so be sure you have enough power on your PSU for such a card.
You have a mobile vs the desktop gpu but temps and power are still the first things to check.
Yeah it could be temps to. Clevo seems to have an issue with warped heatsinks in the die contact area. I sanded mine and saw a 10c drop. There is a good thread on cooling mods for the P377 over on NBR. It would be worth looking into.
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If you are pushing your system by overclocking, a single 330w power brick will not be enough. This can cause a crash. Are you running a single power brick?
93c is high for the GPU but shouldn't cause a crash. The GPU will simply throttle to lower the temps.
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Any solution update about case no. 2? I have similar problem with P177SM and GTX 880M.
Bump
P177SM or P177SM-A? They are different!
I accidentally flashed my P170SM-A with the P170SM bios and got the same result as you two did.
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I just bought the 330w brick for the NP9570/NP9377. It has the same 4 pin connector as my NP8278.
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9650 was my best with the 230w power brick. The 230w brick would not allow me to overclock my CPU along with my GPU. I needed another 50 - 60 watts or so.
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Finally got a 330w power brick for my Sager NP8278 (Clevo P170SM-A). I cracked 10k in 3DMark 11 today.
P10013
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 880M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7 4900MQ,Notebook P17SM-A
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2) If you RMA your video card due to a bad flash I wouldn't expect that to be a warranty RMA. That one would be on you.
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Does hitting FN&1 reduce the fan speed? It is possible that yours is "switched on" so to speak.
My P170SM sets the fan speed at 100% (or near as makes no difference) once the 780M goes over 88 degrees.
FN+1 toggles between auto fan speed and maximum fan speed.
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Those are some impressive temps. Not sure if I have a bad heat sink or something but my GPU goes up to 93 on furmark. No throttling though, but definitely not good in the long term for the gpu.
Furmark is really a harsh test for your hardware. I would use that sparingly.
My 880M used to hit over 90c during gaming. I had to limit the core clock to 954 to keep it reasonable.
This was just to show that it can definitely be improved.
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I have seen 278w at my wall measured with a Kill-a-watt. The rating on my power brick is Efficiency Level V which is 87%. This means my laptop was pulling 241w out of my 230w power brick. Fortunately, my P170SM-A has a 4-pin connector and the larger 330w power bricks work. I have a 330w ordered that will be here on Monday.
My point is if you push it a 230w supply is not enough.
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Disable the Intel GPU in the bios and try again?
Not sure how to disable the iGPU in my Clevo. Poked around a bit. Still no McLovin.
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Just go 780M, you can even flash a 880M VBIOS on your 780M if you want to.
Why would you want to do that when there exists an unlocked VBIOS for the 780M? Many are having issues with the 880M just getting it to run at stock speeds.
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After I wrote this I double checked... if you are using the eDrawings viewer like I am the it is a definite maybe. Running the sensors screen in nVidia Inspector I see a spike up to max clock and memory when I have the nvidia graphics selected in the nvidia control panel. I see the power mode P0 as well. It doesn't do that when I have Intel graphics selected. I need to do more testing...
Even with the GTX 880M card selected in nvidia control panel the GPU usage remains at 0%. So you really to need a professional level card to see any advantage in Solidworks (or the viewer).
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The 860M is completely useless for Solidworks. My P170SM-A loads them quickly too and utilizes the Intel graphics even though I have an 880M. You need a Quadro or similar professional card that is certified for Solidworks for it to take advantage of the card. I even tried an inf mod on the Quadro drives and still no love.
After I wrote this I double checked... if you are using the eDrawings viewer like I am the it is a definite maybe. Running the sensors screen in nVidia Inspector I see a spike up to max clock and memory when I have the nvidia graphics selected in the nvidia control panel. I see the power mode P0 as well. It doesn't do that when I have Intel graphics selected. I need to do more testing...
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A co-worker of mine just got a new work laptop and it came with the 860m. It's quite powerful! Loads solidworks drawing very quickly and it hasn't had any issue with heating yet. Unfortunately it's a work laptop so he can't easily attempt overclocking it without our IT department getting upset :/
The 860M is completely useless for Solidworks. My P170SM-A loads them quickly too and utilizes the Intel graphics even though I have an 880M. You need a Quadro or similar professional card that is certified for Solidworks for it to take advantage of the card. I even tried an inf mod on the Quadro drives and still no love.
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So you also sanded the gpu heatsink, or only the cpu?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did my GPU first and it was a huge improvement. The CPU I did just because I wanted too. I don't overclock my CPU. The 880M was running very hot even at stock clocks, which is why I started looking into cooling mods. Now I can run it at 1032 core at .9875v and 1450 memory. It hits 71c during 3DMark 11 and 77c max during gaming (Mechwarrior Online).
It should be noted that Mechwarrior Online pegs the GPU while sitting at the start of a match with no real 3D stuff going on. During gaming it usually runs below 70c.
NVIDIA Kepler VBIOS mods - Overclocking Editions, modified clocks, voltage tweaks
in General Notebook Discussions
Posted
Did you use a DOS USB boot disk?