deadsmiley

This is gray cant touch it. Is there any way to unlock it with keppler bios twealer for example? And what i need to change? Keep in mind that im currently in SVL7 modded vbios

You can use Keplar Bios Tweaker to raise the power limits.

This is gray cant touch it. Is there any way to unlock it with keppler bios twealer for example? And what i need to change? Keep in mind that im currently in SVL7 modded vbios

Are you sure you are using the latest version of nvidia inspector?

Is it removable?

No, but it can be raised until there is effectively no limit. I am not sure at what point it would harm your hardware.

For the 880M I raised it until it no longer limited my overclock. It was about 30 - 40% more than what was offered over the modded vbios.

Is there any power limitation even with unlocked vbios? I have alienware 18 with dual GTX770M i have used svl7 unlocked vbios and i can overclock up to +220/+500mem with +100mv voltage (temps never go higher than 74degrees thats on auto fan profile with liquid ultra paste) with custom fan profile temps never go beyond 55 degrees. If i use more voltage i can go up to +260 but 3dmark score drops (on gpu score) Currently on +220 i get 11750 gpu marks but if i clock to +260 with 1,15v i get max 10500.

Yes, there is a limit. I know there was with 880M vbios.

So, based on the fact that I haven't seen any recent reply's by SVL7, I'm going to assume that either this isn't the thread for it anymore, or perhaps he doesn't do them anymore.

Can someone confirm this?

He is still active. But he does this in his free time and may be taking a break or just busy.

GTX860M Maxwell is just 50W (and cheap).

And it's a pretty potent little rascal.

Do you sand the gpu die or the heatsink copper contact?

The copper heatsink. Never sand the gpu die.

So, hi guys after a while. I have sent my kaptop to service and they replaced the GPU. I got it today and after a quick full test (with demos) in 3dmark11 it maxed out at 84 degrees. Maybe not the coolest of all, but at least acceptable. Will change the paste to gelid one more time and see what the results are.

Any update on this?

That should not happen. I would think this should be covered under warranty. Contact your reseller and inquire about an RMA.

Prema, I am hoping that you have been keeping the fact that you are a woman a secret from us. Because right now I want to kiss you squarely on the mouth. And if you are a man, that would be awkward. (But I would still do it.)

Because P170SM-A is just a new "marketing" version of the P170SM, i tried to flash my P170SM with a P170SM-A bios

It works and the laptop post, but the 780m is not properly recognised anymore (need to mod the .inf to install driver).

The keyboard is not illuminated anymore and i think that it is related to hotkey software.

Do you know if illuminated keyboard need a new version of hotkey to work with those new bios? got hotkey 2.34.50

You really need to flash the P170SM bios. I flashed the P170SM bios on my P170SM-A and things didn't work correctly. My laptop posted, but did not recognize the 880M.

"KHENGLISH"!

Ummm.... wut???

Added some basic GTX980M info. So how do you guys like a stock Turbo Boost of 1127Mhz...guess we will see some 14xxMhz+ from this bad boy, once we are done with the chip.

Looks like this time we may need to pencil mod (overvolt) the vRAM to play catch up.

Do you have a link to this pencil mod? I have searched for this before and found nothing specific for my 880M.

I have a dumb question: In a laptop, Hdmi connector and Gpu are separate unlike the desktop gpu card. Putting a 980m on a P370SM-A, does it will allow to have an HDMI 2.0 output (because the card support it), or does it will be limited to HDMI1.4 output (connector wired to the motherboard) ?

That is a good question. We will know after somebody does a transplant.

Have you run any benchmarks on this? 3DMark 11 and Firestrike are of interest to me.

Over at NBR in the "Pidge from nVidia" thread I posted up a screenshot of my HWiNFO64 during a sidetrack discussion of GTX 880M temperatures.

D2 Ultima pointed out that my PCH was quite toasty:

"Woah, the PCH was hitting 98 and averaging 95 there. Those things have an upper limit of 100c-105c, you should probably keep an eye on it or maybe try a cooling mod for it?"

For those that are wondering... the PCH (Primary Controller Hub) is basically what used to a be known as a Southbridge.

This all lead to further derailment of that thread to a short discussion of on PCH temps. My PCH has actually seen 108.5C as of the day before yesterday. That prompted me to tear down my laptop that evening. I started late and worked until 2am. Then I went to bed and finished up the next morning. Ok, enough prep. This is what I did.

I had read that the P17xx series were a bit different than the P15x and P37x in terms of what it looks like under the keyboard. The other two models have free access to the PCH.

Here is a link to n=1's PCH cooling mod for the P370SM.

5 mniute mod to improving PCH cooling in P370SM

Well, it isn't quite so simple with the P17x series. As you can see, there is a big ol' chunk of plastic in the way. I can cut it, but I am not going near the assembled laptop with my dremel. A disassembly is in order to get to this thing. I am OK with that because I see it as a challenge and a chance to learn something (even if it's what not to do).

Here is what I thought was an interesting picture. I have the top case all but separated from the bottom case. Getting the keyboard off is pretty easy. Just be careful of the two ribbon connectors. One is for the keyboard and one is for the backlight. The backlight ribbon is a pain in the butt to put back. All of the other ribbon cable connectors slide away from connector to release the ribbon. The backlight connector flips up. I didn't know that and I slide it away and the lock popped off. After some fiddling with it I dug through the service manual and the light went on. It's a tiny little bugger, but I got it back into place and everything still works.

In this picture, the laptop is open and standing on the right side. The screen is on the far right and the bottom casing is on the far left. The top case is in the middle.

Here you can barely see the PCH nestled under that nice, insulating plastic. No real hope of getting a breath of fresh air. In the second picture I have disassembled the laptop enough to get a better peek at the little hottie.

My goal is to remove the top case so I can cut a hole in it and stack up thermal pads so they touch the bottom of the keyboard, which is a huge aluminum plate. This will make a nice heatsink for the PCH. This is the same thing that n=1 has done, only with less hassle than us P17x owners.

Here the top case has been removed and you can now clearly see the PCH.

I just eyeballed the location and marked it with a sharpie so I would have a guide before I head out to the garage for cutting.

In a few minutes it's all done. I used a cutoff wheel at low speed. I cut straight down into the material from the top and then flipped it over and did the same thing from the bottom. Then I just pushed out the square cutout with my thumb. I am not too concerned about appearances with this mod as it won't normally be seen. After I was done cutting I used a wire brush at low speed to clean up the rough edges.

I put the top case back on and find that my eyeballing wasn't too bad. Looks like I hit the mark pretty close. w00t!

Now the only problem I have is I don't know how much stackup I need for my thermal pads. I used a 1/4 sheet of 1mm, 11.0 W/mK thermal pad from FrozenCPU.com which i cut with ordinary scissors. But, how tall to stack it? The answer is: modeling clay to the rescue. I just formed some modeling clay and stuck it on top of the PCH.

Then I test fitted my keyboard, smushing the modeling clay.

After that I removed the keyboard and measured the height of the smooshed modeling clay with my dial calipers. I measured .164" which is a bit more than 4mm.

I cut and stacked 5 layers of 1mm thermal pad to make sure I had good contact.

Then just put everything back together and played some games. The result was pretty good. The most I have seen is 85C on the PCH. The down side is the keyboard gets quite a bit warmer. I think the trade off is worth it. I was able to drop the max PCH temperature by 20c with this mod.

BONUS: For those that are wondering, all three antennas are routed up to the screen bezel even if your configuration only uses two antennas. This is nice to know. If you think about it, it's a lot easier for Clevo to do this by default. The parts aren't expensive and it's one less thing to track if they all get it.

Considering how close we are to 980M at this point it would be wise to wait unless you have a dire need for a new laptop. If you do have a dire need get the 860M or 870M and upgrade to 900M series when it arrives.

I use Aida 64 and I have problem with hight temperature of Diode PCH

It is normal for clevo laptops that temperature is 98 °C ?

I have Clevo P170SM

It seems to be pretty common. Mine has seen 108c before. I didn't like it that hot so I modded my laptop. Basically, I took it apart, cut a hole in the plastic top case and stacked up thermal pads between the PCH and the keyboard so the bottom of the keyboard is now a heatsink.

Here is a link with more details:

http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/7747-%5Bhardware-mod%5D-more-than-5-minute-mod-improve-pch-cooling-p17xsm.html#post106083

Should just work, otherwise we will make them work.

Of course. And if you do, I will buy you a beer even if I don't upgrade from my 880M. [emoji2]

So... are you suggesting that the 900M series will drop right in to the current model Clevos with MXM connectors?

Sure looks like it.

Did your set on boot setting get disabled?

I don't know why everyone loves that program, nothing but problems for me and less fine tune voltage adjustment than Precision X has.

I always got annoyed when I would set one card, go to set the other, and come back to the main card just to see the settings didn't take and have to do them again.

Personally I've not had a great experience with MSI or Inspector but I have zero issues with the old Precision X (I don't install RTSS though because I have that installed for use with Hwinfo).

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

I don't love it. It simply works better for me than the other two programs.

I would use nvidia inspector. It usually has more options enabled for overclocking.

I've been looking at gigabyte's P35Wv2, P25Wv2 and P25Xv2, is there any 880M SLI with an i7 and 8gb ram for 1600 euro? (and it should be max 4 cm high when lid is closed, I don't like fat laptops)

New Maxwell cards are coming soon. I would wait 2-3 weeks for the new stuff if at all possible.

Just found out that the I7 4810mq has been bottlenecking my SLI GTX 870M

[ATTACH=CONFIG]12332[/ATTACH]

this is with +40 mhz overclock lol

btw, I still don't understand why my physx is very low

I set max V, Max I for all option for 150Watt and 150Amperes respectively

it went 4.0ghz on 4 cores but fluctuating over time

using prema bios mod p377SM-A v1

any advice from seniors?thanks in advance

That sounds about right for a 4810MQ.

For the video cards you need svl7's modded vbios.

can somebody please help me with SLI GTX 870M?

I tried prema P377SM-A bios mod

the cpu could overclock although fluctuating

but the gpu is still the same as before bios mod

thanks in advance

Premamod is for the system. On your system the video bios is separate from the system. Plus you have two cards so you will need to flash each of them.