zeuxlarsson

Thank you, it works! I was using 347.90-modded one earlier (which I think you also provided? It has been working great so far but Diablo3 tends to freeze so I hope this one will solve that. Anyways, when I installed that one I disabled driver-signing and I was under the impression that the setting lasts thru restart but perhaps it doesnt? Either way after doing that (again) and using that dispi file instead it worked like a charm.

Hello everyone! I have been trying to install 353.49 on my alienware m18xR2 with a 980M card. I cant get the installation to go thru. I looked in this thread as well as the .inf-mod thread but the instructions either doesnt work, or I'm doing something wrong (I'm guessing the latter). Could someone please tell me how to do this? My hardware ID is: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_13D7&SUBSYS_05501028&REV_A1

I've been reading this thread backwards and forwards but cant figure out to get to this 352.86-driver working on my M18X-R2 with Win8.1 and a 980M-card. Been trying to modify .inf files but I'm not even sure I'm modifying the correct file. Would anyone inform me which file is the correct one as I've been getting mixed messeges here. My HW-ID is: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_13D7&SUBSYS_05501028

Joined 2013 but havnt been active at all. Upgrades my m18xR2 recently to a Geforce 980M when my last 7970m card died after years of hard OC. Now I'm here looking for tips n tricks on my new card aswell as modified drivers.

Black/Blue screens may often be caused by bad drivers aswell but your error messenge isnt encouraging. You probably got a fault card yes. The question is, did you overlock it in any way? The 7970-cards are quite resilient but you could always get unlucky. My dual 7970-card setup had one of the cards die a year after purchase (heavy overclock, vBIOS/Voltage-mod etc) and the 2nd card died another year after that.

Your best bet would indeed be to either find out if a 3x pipe-cooler from a larger AW would work and if it doesnt fit you can always pick it appart and solder an extra pipe onto your current cooler. This requires a bit or worksmanship though and that you know what you are doing. The easiest and risk-free solution would be a cooling pad to place your laptop on.

I cant speak for current version AW's but my m18xR2 has been upgraded with more/better RAM, i7-3940XM, and a geforce 980m all without too much of a hiccup (appart for the fact that the 980m require modified drivers to even work as well as win8.1 which forced me to upgrade from my beloved Win7. In the end, most manufacturers dont want us to tinker inside our machines.

Most of the higher-end cards that sit in these m18x's are indeed sought after and definitely sellable. It would depend on whether you've ran them overclocked or not. I wouldnt buy a laptop-GPU if I knew it's been overlocked. I myself ran dual 7970m with a pretty hefty overclock and vBIOS mod for higher voltages and they slowly degraded to finally die in the end.

I had a 7970m-CF setup previously and I think I found the version number either in GPU-Z or when looking inside the vBIOS of it.

Just bricked by 7970m(s) though my slave-card isnt confirmed bricked yet as I havent opened my m18x up yet to switch the cards between slots. Having read the whole thread (though not every single post in detail) I decided to flash my two 7970M-cards in my m18x to a high voltage VBIOS for high OC, having run my cards for about a year on 900/1250mhz I wanted more, however I couldnt even get 950/1200mhz stable, that having tried 1075v, 1125v and even 1150v I just wouldnt budge so I figured I'd give up and flash back to my default VBIOS, being unlucky my last flash back to default seems to have failed (even though my 5-10 prior flashes worked like a charm), perhaps my default bios was corrupt? Anyways now my m18x wont post at all, the pc turns on and cpu fan starts moving but not the LCD nor the graphics fans thus my suspicion they are indeed bricked. If I start up holding 'D' it wont do the colour-test either (need to be able to POST for this?). I figure I have about 3 options. 1. Scrap my cards and buy a couple of new ones (by far most expensive option) 2. Buy a new VBIOS module of off eBay and solder it onto my card (anyone tried this?) Cheaper but will still cost me some time and money. 3. Try to blind-flash it, though having basically no experience in doing this, and google doesnt help me that much I would like to know if anyone else have done this? Anyone willing to post a guide regarding making a bootable USB that can handle a Vbios-rom and how to use it? I'm guessing I'll have to disconnect my hdds and dvd for it to choose USB-boot automatically? Or do I have to do this blind somehow? However, if it doesnt even POST (which I cant be sure of if it does,) can it boot from a USB? EDIT: I fixed it. As it so happens it was my master-card that was bricked while my slave-card was okay. All I had to do was to switch the cards between slots and then boot it up again, got screen and managed to flash my old master-card(now in slave-slot) with my default vBIOS. I guess running a crossfire-rig does have its advantages in terms of redundancy, I wont however experiment further on flashing vBIOS:es, it is simply too expensive if you do brick your card.