T3hFirefly

I burned the Offical MSI BIOS to a disk. and put it on all my USBs. Pluged them into all the usb posts and put the CD with the BIOS files in the Disk drive and left it on over night. (I press Ctrl+Home etc. And came back to the same black screen. I called MSI and they said I could send it in and get the MoBo replaced probably at a price but hopefully I can get them to upgrade the processor to a 5750m from the 4600m. It will be the next best thing. And the sky rocket of Ram prices will leave me wit a Profit on the 2133ram that I could use to pay off MSI.

I got the unlocked bios from here. MSI G-Series Unlocked BIOS I tried to hard flash it with the Win8 BIOS from here http://www.msi.com/product/nb/GX60-Hitman-Edition.html#/?div=BIOS&nbos=win8 However no matter what I press I can't get it to do a blind-flash. Ctrl+FN+PgUp, Ctrl+Alt+num7, Ctrl+Alt+Delete. No beeps to indicate its doing a hard flash.

Well I was able to flash it. But unfortunately I have seemed to have created a $1200 Paper Weight in the process. IDK what I did wrong actually. I switched it to legacy. Flashed the BIOS (It did it in like 15 seconds). The laptop shut its self off before I could do anything. Turned it back on the come to a wonderful Orange light and Black Screen. I unplugged the CMOS for about 20 seconds. (At least I assume I unplugged it.) (I think this is the CMOS battery) I was unable to do a Hard-Flash I never heard the beeps that should take place. What if I start up the laptop with out the Cmos plugged in at start up?

Hello. I bought a MSI GX60 several months back. I really hate Windows 8. Not as user friendly when you start messing around with network settings and other things. And some of my games like GTAIV I had to download a cracked launcher just to get it run because SecuROM kept crashing (If you don't believe I own it check my steam library). I tried to ignore it til I read that Higher clocked Ram can boost the Graphics Performance of A10 processors and that the processor can get up to 3.2GHz. I bought some sweet 2133MHz Ram but I also read that the laptop wouldn't support anything over 1866 with out getting Xonar's custom BIOS and setting it to XMP. I made my self a bootalbe DOS USB and pluged it into my GX60. Pressed F11 to get to the boot Menu selected the USB then it Brought me back to the Boot menu after a quick screen flicker selected the USB again and it proceeded to boot me into windows 8 for some reason. I did the process again in a different USB slot. Same result. Assuming it was the USB its self I tried it with 3 other USB drives and ended in the same result. I used rufus 1.3.4 and made 4 different bootable dos USB. I tried both MS-DOS and FreeDOS on all 4 of the drives. I put Linux Mint XFCE on one of them (using YUMI) and it game me the same result. Is what I tried to use. They all ended in the same result. Bootmenu select USB. Screen flash. Select USB. Boot to Windows 8 for reasons XY&Z. Am I missing something? Does it need to be a 4GB USB(smallest I got is 8GB)? Does it just not like the brand? I used 3 different Sandisk USBs and a PNY USB drive. Does it just not like Fat32? Could I possibly do it from Windows 8? I haven't changed anything Hardware wise. Its all stock. My 2133 ram is still in the box. MSI GX60 AMD 4600m (2nd gen APU I believe) 8GB of ram 1600 (Stock ram) Stock 750GB HDD I really don't want to be stuck using terribad Windows 8 (even with start8 I still find it annoying to use) and if that's the case what if my HDD fails how do I reinstall the OS it won't let me boot to the Disk Drive And Thanks.

With all the Styrofoam around it I wouldn't really be that concerned. I would really only worry about the HDD. I've gotten laptops with Dead HDDs in them and had to go out and buy a new one. Probably due to the same packing method that guy was using.

I think I saw the GTX 770 going for around $400. You could get two of them and run them in SLI. and get more bang for you buck. I remeber when the 670 and 680 were out people would get the 670 and overclock it to the same speeds as the 680. Unlike the 600 series though 770 and 780 aren't based off of the same GPU Model. But I don't see why that would make much of a difference.

I would say look for the average temperature of the Processor. From what I've seen around the net 60C is the highest idle temp. With it having a safe operating of 100C. I would say Get "Core Temp" and "CPUZ" and do some benchmarking with a few resource intensive games and browsing internet pages with a bunch of flash objects (flash objects always seem to mess with the temp and clock speeds of my AMD APUs I don't see why intel would be any different). See if the Clock Speed jumps around and the Temp climbs real fast. If the CPU gets to about 95C and stays there I might check the thermal and replace it with some high grade thermal overclockers use. If you want to play it safe I would get a cooling pad for the laptop. (I assume its a laptop seeing how it has a 3610QM)