Calibre41

sorry I missed this post! YES it is fixed, very very very rarely it goes 100% and gets stuck but in all honesty I don't remember the last time it did it probably a month ago at least! (compared to 3-4 or 5 times in one night!) as usual, Prema is producing high quality mods - Clevo should really be paying him as he is absolutely saving their arses!

do we have a sales section here, as the title suggest's I'm getting geared up to sell this. I'm not overly sure what it's worth - I've never seen one 2nd hand before! I really love the machine and I had big idea's for pushing forward some exotic copper cooler designs but I'm really not comfortable with the heat and noise level's when I'm trying to get some gaming done on the sofa (it's disturbing others in the room - mainly my other half!) and the temperature is making using it actually on my lap quite uncomfortable - it's much more a desktop replacement machine! we'll see what happens. I'd like to hold on to it, but it's dam hard justifying the cost just so I can design a few parts - I might be better just picking up a P150HM or EM maybe even a non working, dead or damaged machine on the cheap just for the designs planning to have a W230ST for my general everyday use

any sight of the W230ST ESM

I've considered this, and one day I might do it, but it will require the manufacture of completely new parts/fan housing - and it will be bigger (desktop centrifugal GFX fan - same as found on a GTX 670/770/680/780 - so big, high volume - and without fitting a higher capacity cooler/exchanger you're never going to get the noise levels down. The amount of time this will take me to build means anyone wanting one replicating will have to offer me substantial amounts of money lol There does seem to be a fan speed issue at the moment, mine often stick one 100% and I have to turn the machine off completely or hit sleep mid game, give the fans a few seconds to stop, then restart - and usually within 5 minutes, the fans just jump from 30-40% upto 100% screaming loud again - I just turn the volume up on my headphones now.... It's a serious issue, and it seems to be related to crossing a certain temperature (but I'm not sure) once the line is crossed, the CPU fan just hit's 100% and stays there forever - I have left the machine idle for over an hour and it never stopped blasting 100% despite getting temps down to 26°C on the core which is not much above ambient. serious, serious issue - I feel neglected - this is such a prominent issue for me - it's early days so maybe it will get fixed, or maybe I have a faulty unit - I don't know It's early days, hopefully they'll fix it,

Yeah, I'm going to try and remove the whole area around the CPU and GPU and replace it with a Black Delrin bezel, removing the standard feet in the process and raising them up a reasonable amount, possibly adding flip out adjusters like a regular keyboard has, and a very open mesh possibly stamped to a profile will cover the gaping huge holes. (I have a CNC vertical mill BTW.... I'm not hacksawing it apart, everything will be machined from billet or blocks)

I'm getting a spare bottom cover (or 2) for my P150SM for this exact reason, my plan is to open up the bottom of the case as much as possible (think, the new M17X R5) and fit a mesh/grill and fit extended feet to give it an extra 5-10 mm of height. I'm also getting a couple of spare (1 piece SM style) GPU coolers and a pair of CPU coolers to look in to modifying them for better performance - I have some ideas for improving both the evaporation and condensation ends of the process - whether it's achievable in a DIY scenario is another thing completely. I will also be testing each cooler before killing them to assess stock performance differences to try and find out how consistent the heat-pipes are that they are using.

Well typically the fans will spin down below 80°C typically 80-90 is about right, although I'm sure with the newer type cooler your looking at running towards 80, and not towards 90, which is a big difference in temperature, and probably noise level

You'd have to call them for a spares order mate! don't forget to mention that your looking for the 1 piece cooler specifically from the SM series, and also if you have the P150 you'll noice the cooling fins are aluminium, the P170's have an all COPPER design might as well throw in an all copper P17**M CPU cooler too

I know PCSpecialist will have stock in the next month

Usually the keys are attached in each corner on a laptop, the are attached to a scissor type piece of plastic, that then attaches to the base at 4 points. 2 of the 4 points, usually the bottom of the key closest to you although Prema highlights it might be the TOP so take care) clip DOWN, the top right/left (or bottom as Prema wisely suggests) have a little mini rail inside and the plastic scissor slides in and out when you push the key down. If I try to explain how to install one, hopefully it will give you an idea of how to remove one? to INSTALL an NEW key, you would fit the plastic scissor (if it isn't already attached) hold the scissor in the up position with a bit of bent paper clip and slide the rail on the key, in to the lugs on the scissor (that are held up in the air by the paper clip! then remove the paperclip (or other item) gently, and ensuring the key is straight and the remaing clips and lugs feel aligned, gently press down, it should clip in to position! here is an image I nicked off google - it highlights the importance that some scissors are the front to back configuration, and the slimmer keys are actually left to right (and some might be right to left or back to front!) - I usually just gently lift up the sides of the key with a spudger - starting at the back (as this is usually the clip side) - if you pull to hard on the slide side, it will just unclip the scissor from the base, so no drama really, just doubles the amount of work to reinstall! take care not to damage the rubber contact, although I suspect this little bit is what's damaged anyway - it is glued down, if you knock it off, it requires some incredible precison gluing to get it back in position, I recommend using a tiny brush to paint on the glue - do not use to much, and once stuck back down centrally, do NOT press the rubber down or install that key for 24hrs or the whole dam lot will stick down and this is not so easily fixed without damaging the contacts

you mean 6-31-P15SN-201 and the GTX 780m backplate part number is 6-33-P15SL-101 (maybe the 680m uses the same? Maybe this is improved ?)

Well I might be getting one of the old style 680m coolers from a good friend if he has a good price for me I believe some of the review samples shipped with the old style cooler, so I expect it should fit. I haven't seen any 770m or 8970m versions in any pictures yet but I know the parts list calls up the same part number for all the Nvida boards (ie N14E GS/GE & GTX). The 780m GTX does have a backplate assembly which the others dont have and the 8970m isn't on the parts list yet so no idea! I would guess it will be one size fits all, it makes no sense making 2 different versions as it would cost more than the saving. The only reason I can foresee the 770m and below having the old style cooler would be to clear old stock,

Sounds good! Did you manage to get the temperature effect working? (I can't see the photo's due to my newbie account)