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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/19 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Managed to find a relatively cheap MSI 1070 on ebay, and after reading a few success stories that 1070's are compatible I decided to pull the trigger. Modified the bottom case as per the photo on this FAQ page http://www.eurocom.com/ec/faqs(272)ClevoP150EM_SagerNP9150_XMG_P502_PRO. Things were going well until I went to screw the card down and felt some resistance. Oops. Looks like that capacitor(?) with the blue on it *just* clashes with the card. Now what's weird is not all P150em motherboards seem to have this component on it - looking at replacements this component is not there. Also looking at the photos from this 1080m P150em mod (https://premamod.wordpress.com/2017/10/10/clevo-pascal-mxm-standard/), this component isn't there either. Does anyone know what this is, and if it can be removed? Or, if this could be taken off and shifted out of the way somehow, or replaced with a smaller equivalent...? In my disbelief/annoyance/problem solving when trying to push it down, I did notice that the card has a surprising amount of flex in it and it *can* be screwed down almost completely to a level where I feel somewhat comfortable in doing... Though I'd rather not put this strain on the card if there is a way to avoid it.
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    "Bugger it. She'll be right." Decided to just go ahead with it and the bending isn't as bad as it seemed like it was going to be. Have changed the thermal pads since these photos - I only need 1mm pads on memory and chokes. The 'border' which was designed to contact the 980M mosfets doesn't quite line up with this card and is only half covered by it. I put in a 2mm thermal pad next to the border section to make up the height difference, and a 1.5mm thermal pad over the mosfets themselves so they would have their entire surface covered. I didn't need to do any modification to the heatsink outside of adding a 1mm copper shim to contact the die properly. No issues installing drivers, just followed J95's guide here https://premamod.wordpress.com/2017/08/15/j95-nvidia-inf/ and bam: The only thing I have to deal with now is the heat this bad boy puts out.
  4. 1 point
    Ok. Your bios mod with NVME support done. I sent it to you via PM. After you successfully install the BIOS mod, then you can install Windows 10 on your NVMe disk. Important: The "BOOT" section of the UEFI BIOS and the shortcut to the "Bootable Devices" will not show the NVMe SSD, although it may be bootable! After having installed the NVMe supporting OS in UEFI mode onto the PCIe/M.2 connected SSD, you will see the new bootable system drive listed as "Windows Boot Manager". Here are some advices about how to get Win10 properly installed onto an M.2 or PCIe connected NVMe SSD: Save the important data, which are currently on the NVMe SSD. Create a bootable, FAT32 formatted USB Flash drive containing the desired Win10 image by using the tool Rufus (important: choose the UEFI mode partition table = GPT). Here is a picture, which shows the most important Rufus settings: Enter the BIOS and navigate to the "BOOT" section and - if applicable - the "SECURITY" or "Keys" section. Make sure, that the "Secure Boot" and "Fast Boot" options are disabled. The "Compatibility Support Module" (CSM) can either be set to "Disabled" as well (better option, but requires full UEFI compatibility of the graphics adapter) or to "Enabled" with the ability/preference to load EFI BIOS modules for the Storage Disk Drives. If you see BIOS options for the "OS type", choose "other OS". This will disable the Secure Boot setting.Side note: Some users reported, they they had to disable the ASMedia SATA Controller within the "Storage Configuration" section to be able to boot off the NVMe SSD. Most important: Unplug all storage disk drives except the NVMe supporting SSD. Insert the prepared USB Flash drive and boot off it in UEFI mode (the related bootable USB drive should be shown by the Boot Manager with the prefix "[UEFI]"). When you come to the point, where you have to decide onto which Drive and which partition the OS shall be installed, delete all existing partitions from your NVME supporting SSD. After having done that, let the Win10 Setup create a new partition for your future drive C: on the related SSD. Then point to this just created partition as the desired future OS location. The rest should be done by the Setup automaticly. You will get a message, that some additional partitions have to be created. Accept that and follow the advice of the Setup where to install the OS. Once the OS is up and running, shut down the computer, remove the bootable USB Flash driver and reconnect all your previously used storage drives. Before you restart cour computer, make sure, that the NVMe SSD resp. its listed "Windows Boot Manager" is on top of the bootable storage drives.
  5. 1 point
    Apply liquid metal (grizzly conductonaut) but beware it's doesn't put like a normal thermoconductive paste.
  6. 1 point
    Over at NBR in the "Pidge from nVidia" thread I posted up a screenshot of my HWiNFO64 during a sidetrack discussion of GTX 880M temperatures. D2 Ultima pointed out that my PCH was quite toasty: "Woah, the PCH was hitting 98 and averaging 95 there. Those things have an upper limit of 100c-105c, you should probably keep an eye on it or maybe try a cooling mod for it?" For those that are wondering... the PCH (Primary Controller Hub) is basically what used to a be known as a Southbridge. This all lead to further derailment of that thread to a short discussion of on PCH temps. My PCH has actually seen 108.5C as of the day before yesterday. That prompted me to tear down my laptop that evening. I started late and worked until 2am. Then I went to bed and finished up the next morning. Ok, enough prep. This is what I did. I had read that the P17xx series were a bit different than the P15x and P37x in terms of what it looks like under the keyboard. The other two models have free access to the PCH. Here is a link to n=1's PCH cooling mod for the P370SM. 5 mniute mod to improving PCH cooling in P370SM Well, it isn't quite so simple with the P17x series. As you can see, there is a big ol' chunk of plastic in the way. I can cut it, but I am not going near the assembled laptop with my dremel. A disassembly is in order to get to this thing. I am OK with that because I see it as a challenge and a chance to learn something (even if it's what not to do). Here is what I thought was an interesting picture. I have the top case all but separated from the bottom case. Getting the keyboard off is pretty easy. Just be careful of the two ribbon connectors. One is for the keyboard and one is for the backlight. The backlight ribbon is a pain in the butt to put back. All of the other ribbon cable connectors slide away from connector to release the ribbon. The backlight connector flips up. I didn't know that and I slide it away and the lock popped off. After some fiddling with it I dug through the service manual and the light went on. It's a tiny little bugger, but I got it back into place and everything still works. In this picture, the laptop is open and standing on the right side. The screen is on the far right and the bottom casing is on the far left. The top case is in the middle. Here you can barely see the PCH nestled under that nice, insulating plastic. No real hope of getting a breath of fresh air. In the second picture I have disassembled the laptop enough to get a better peek at the little hottie. My goal is to remove the top case so I can cut a hole in it and stack up thermal pads so they touch the bottom of the keyboard, which is a huge aluminum plate. This will make a nice heatsink for the PCH. This is the same thing that n=1 has done, only with less hassle than us P17x owners. Here the top case has been removed and you can now clearly see the PCH. I just eyeballed the location and marked it with a sharpie so I would have a guide before I head out to the garage for cutting. In a few minutes it's all done. I used a cutoff wheel at low speed. I cut straight down into the material from the top and then flipped it over and did the same thing from the bottom. Then I just pushed out the square cutout with my thumb. I am not too concerned about appearances with this mod as it won't normally be seen. After I was done cutting I used a wire brush at low speed to clean up the rough edges. I put the top case back on and find that my eyeballing wasn't too bad. Looks like I hit the mark pretty close. w00t! Now the only problem I have is I don't know how much stackup I need for my thermal pads. I used a 1/4 sheet of 1mm, 11.0 W/mK thermal pad from FrozenCPU.com which i cut with ordinary scissors. But, how tall to stack it? The answer is: modeling clay to the rescue. I just formed some modeling clay and stuck it on top of the PCH. Then I test fitted my keyboard, smushing the modeling clay. After that I removed the keyboard and measured the height of the smooshed modeling clay with my dial calipers. I measured .164" which is a bit more than 4mm. I cut and stacked 5 layers of 1mm thermal pad to make sure I had good contact. Then just put everything back together and played some games. The result was pretty good. The most I have seen is 85C on the PCH. The down side is the keyboard gets quite a bit warmer. I think the trade off is worth it. I was able to drop the max PCH temperature by 20c with this mod. BONUS: For those that are wondering, all three antennas are routed up to the screen bezel even if your configuration only uses two antennas. This is nice to know. If you think about it, it's a lot easier for Clevo to do this by default. The parts aren't expensive and it's one less thing to track if they all get it.
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