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Hello, Does anyone know of a fix for error code 43. I am using an akitio thunder2 with a GTX 1060 and a 2015 15 MBP Intel Iris. Everything was working perfectly until today there was an update from Nvidia when suddenly it stopped and is now giving error 43. I have reinstalled windows and still am getting the issue. I am going to revert back to the previous driver to see if that will fix it but we will see.

Hi all, I posted a topic to share my successful installation one year ago, here is the topic link : And after a perfect use for almost one year (11monthes and few days), from yesterday the egpu is not detected by Setup1.30 anymore. I didn't change anything on the computer side, nor on the egpu adapter. Same cpu, memory etc. Now when I boot, one of the 4 LED on the egpu adapter turn RED and setup1.30 is no more detecting the egpu card. Also the fan of the gtx750ti is staying at a high speed run. I join the picture of the egpu adapter with the LED turned RED. If anyone have an idea of what happen... One more thing, one time of ten time booting, egpu is working fine. But freeze after around 30mn of use. SPEC : ACER iconia-6210 (dual screen laptop, no physical keyboard) CUP core i5 480M RAM 8gb SSD 256 Windows 10 pro 64bit pe4c v3.0 mPCIE connecter Dell D220P AC adapter Asus GTX750ti

So back when I got my P150EM, one of the deciding factors on getting it was that due to optimus/enduro, the battery life was respectable. I wanted the top hardware while still having some mobility. Over time though, the battery became more and more worn out, to the point where I hardly got over an hour of life out of it. New batteries are stupidly expensive, and Clevo used cheap cells for it in the first place. I wasn't paying $100 for a mediocre replacement battery. I decided to pay $50 for top end cells to boost capacity by 30% and get over 6h of battery life. I figured that this could get messy, and luckily a friend let me have his nearly dead P150HM battery for me to have some spare parts. So I swapped the cells, while destroying the plastic battery shell in the process, and got a battery that worked just like it still had the old cells. Figuring I needed to reprogram the EEPROM on the battery pack, I started removing the glue all over the EEPROM chip to get it in my programmer. I stupidly forgot that I was working on a BATTERY, which meant that it was ALWAYS ON, and poured MEK over it, blowing a fuse. After getting pissed off and giving up for a few months, today I gave it another go. I got the EEPROM chip out and started taking guesses at how to reprogram it. If I guessed wrong, good thing the fuse was blown so I don't melt anything. I figured out that battery EEPROM contains the capacity info in terms of mAh for a pair of battery cells. I searched for the default 5200 mAh (1450 in hex) and found it. I then raised this to 6800 mAh (1A90 in hex). It was a success! Nominal battery capacity was now 100640 mAh total. So now I knew I could probably program things right after enough tries. It was now time to get the battery operational again. I bridged the fuse, and the battery came back to life. Sort of. It would charge when off, but not on. It would run, but windows reported no battery drain (infinite energy!?!?!?!?). In short, the battery EEPROM was not being updated at all as the battery state changed. I was under the impression that if Ilet it charge, it would not stop until overvoltage protection kicked in, and if I let it discharge, it would not turn off until the system BIOS detected an undervoltage scenario, which is far below the safe discharge voltage of the battery. I figured for the time I'd just let it be and try to get the EEPROM right. Next was looking for the wear capacity. This is the capacity left in the battery as it ages. Using hwinfo64, I got the wear level, converted it to hex, and found it in the EEPROM. I then changed it to only 5% wear instead of 74%. I left some wear because I did let the cells sit for a few months, and I was directly soldering to the cells, which isn't really good for them due to the heat from the iron. This was a success. Current charge % correctly dropped as well. So now I needed to get the battery charging right. My only option was to rip apart my old, but fully functional P150EM battery. I found that the fuse was actually really weird with 3 prongs, and only 2 prongs were supposed to have 0 resistance. I had soldered all 3 together on the P150HM battery. I switched the EEPROM chips and boards, then hoped it would work and not require me to run and get the fire extinguisher. It worked! The battery is now charging properly as I type this. It also discharges right too. It looks like the laptop will try to overcharge it a bit since the current charge % was a little low vs reality, but that should just give it a little extra wear, with the charge % being calibrated properly at 100%. I'm not sure how I'm going to get that back in the shell...

How about no, TI?

It did not!. OS X see s the Akitio box and that is it. I replaced the 1070 with an old PCI video card (nvidia too), like REALLY old, and OS X sees there is something there (A VGA Card) and Windows sees it too (Basic VGA Adaptor) So bad card... ALL THOSE HOURS thinking windows was the problem.

I've got the same issue, reinstalled 372.70 and it works fine again. Really hope the next update fixes this!

https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/announcement/4-user-account-promotion-rules-read-before-posting/ TL;DR stick around, post some more and you'll be promoted with download privileges before you know it!

Thanks for your prompt answer. I will contact BPlus or the agency where I bought the adapter. I will share result.

You'd have a hardware fault. The PE4C V3 red LED pointing to it or the cable to your mPCIe/EC slot is the culprit. Good time to contact BPlus and ask whether they can replace it.

Can confirm, same thing happened to me .. reverted to 372.70 and card was active again. 2014 MBP 15 Retina Iris Pro ... Akitio Thunder2 w/ 1060 6GB.

WARNING TO EVERYONE WHO IS GETTING THE NVIDIA DRIVER 372.90!!! I did a reinstall of 372.70 and everything is up and running again. We will see if it will stay that way. I would still like to know if there is a fix for the error so that if i need to i can update the driver in the future.