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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/26/13 in all areas

  1. Running the GTX 780M in an Alienware M17x R3 Every test is run to its MAX/Ultimate settings. All sliders moved to as far right as possible. Stock CPU and GPU clocks. Stock CPU clocks and Overclocked GPU clocks @ 950Mhz Core + 1500Mhz MEM. Cheers.
    3 points
  2. This is continuation of this thread (http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/2690-lenovo-y500-unlocked-bios.html) with all the necessary information in the first post in order to make it easier to find all the stuff. Lenovo Y400 / Y500 - 'unlocked' BIOS / wwan-wlan whitelist removal + modified VBIOS for higher overclocking The Lenovo Y500 comes with a pretty locked down BIOS, and in addition to this with a whitelist which prevents the user from getting 3rd-party wwan/wlan cards to work properly. The modified BIOS versions here will take care of this. Keep in mind that not necessarily all options available in the modified bios will work. Some might not do anything at all, others could possibly leave your system in a state which will prevent it from booting. Use care when changing stuff in the modified bios, don't touch things you're not familiar with. Use all the mods and software posted here on your own risk. Read the instructions carefully. NOTE: This will only flash the bios region. It won't reset the nvars set in the bios. *************** ONLY FLASH A MOD OF THE SAME VERSION AS YOUR CURRENT BIOS VERSION!!! If you're on 2.02 or 2.03 you can safely use the 2.04 update, *************** Attached you'll find modified versions of the Y400 / Y500 BIOS v1.03 and v1.05. Removed as they're outdated. Better updated to v2.02. The bios contains your Windows 8 license, therefore you can't just flash any file, else you'll have issue with your Windows activation. Furthermore the serial numbers, service tags etc. are stored there as well. You don't want to loose them. I wrote a little program that will take care of this issue and personalize the modified bios for you, so that you won't end up with an invalid Windows or no service tags. *************** Preparation to get to BIOS v2.02 (coming from any earlier version): Generally it's a good idea to keep the BIOS up to date. We're luck to have an official BIOS update to v2.02 apparently thanks to a leak on the net. (Lenovo is really bad when it comes to providing firmware updates and fixing issues). The leaked version must be genuine, else it wouldn't flash by using the regular method. If you want to update your system to v2.02 then grab the update here, extract it and flash the bios by executing the included InsydeFlash utility. Once the update is completed you can continue with the instructions below to get a modified version on your system. *************** Instructions for flashing a modified version: As a reminder - the modified BIOS needs to be the same version as you have on your system (2.02 to 2.04 is ok). Prepare an USB stick which can boot DOS. If you don't know how to do this, follow this short guide: Download the flash tool, for flashing you'll need the DOS version, but for creating the backup of your current BIOS the Win64 version will do as well, and it is faster. Get the prr tool as well. Grab the modified BIOS you want to flash, it comes as a tool which will patch the bios for you. Make sure you grab the version that corresponds with your BIOS version. Create a backup of your current BIOS using the flash tool you downloaded (first step) by runing the included backup.bat, or by using the Win or Dos version flash tool with this command: If the .bat doesn't work then open an administrator command prompt in your working directory and run the .bat per command line or type the command written above. In case you get an 'error 104' replace the parts file with the one that can be found in the 'error 104 fix' attachment at the end of the post. And if you still have issues after doing all of the steps above then please leave a reply in the thread and describe your problem. Open the downloaded tool and execute it. Drag and drop your BIOS backup file on it, it will create the mod for you. It will look like this: Put the modified BIOS, the prr.exe tool and the fpt.exe (along with the fparts.txt file) on the root of your prepared DOS bootable USB drive, restart your system and boot from that drive. Execute the prr.exe, if you don't get an error message continue by pressing enter. Then flash the bios by using this command (filename.bin obviously needs to be replaced with the name of the file you want to flash). If you can't remember the name of your file, use the command dir to display all the files on your drive. Flash with this: fpt.exe -f filename.bin -bios NOTE: The name of the BIOS file mustn't exceed eight characters (not counting the extension)! That's a DOS limit, so make sure the name of your file isn't too long. Wait until the process is done. After flashing it will verify the data, in case there's something wrong with the flashed data it will tell you. In that case don't reboot, just flash again. *************** Flashing the ultra bay 650m - only for SLI users with BIOS v2.02: The modified BIOS v2.02 also contains a vbios which will allow you to overclock your 650m past the 135MHz limit. As the ultra bay GPU has it's own vbios module you need to flash it separately. You'll need an USB drive which can boot DOS (just as the one you used for flashing the BIOS). *************** It might look a bit complicated at first, but that's the easiest way I could think of. Let me know if anything is unclear. >> Here's the 'buy me a beer' link in case you like this << Use at your own risk, you are responsible for your system and the changes you make on it. My programs come with absolutely no warranty to the extent permitted by applicable law. Grab file archive here:
    2 points
  3. It all depends on how good you're at OC'ing. I started since AMD Duron in year 2000 so I know my limits well. I have had blown cards before. But if this Lenovo breaks, I will just get a proper gaming laptop, and transfer the internals over. CPU, RAM, SSD, and Wifi card.
    2 points
  4. Instructions for flashing the VBIOS of a NVIDIA video card: You'll need: A VBIOS file you want to flash The latest version of NVflash, a DOS utility to flash the VBIOS of Nvidia cards. A USB drive, formatted to boot DOS, in order to use NVflash How to create a bootable USB flash drive: The flashing procedure: Put the NVflash files to the root of your prepared (DOS bootable) USB drive. Do the same with the Vbios you want to flash. NOTE: DOS has a limit of 8 characters per file name (not counting the extension). So make sure to rename your files appropriately before putting them on the USB drive. Make sure the USB drive is plugged into a port which is active at boot, reboot the system and go to the boot manager. Choose to boot from your prepared USB drive. As soon as you see the command line you're ready to go, write dir and hit enter to display all the files on the USB drive. Display all Nvidia adapters in the system: nvflash -a or alternatively the longer version of the command: nvflash --list This command will return you a list with all Nvidia adapters present in your system. Here's an example output of this command run on my M15x with a 680m in it: NVIDIA Firmware Update Utility (Version 5.117) NVIDIA display adapters present in system: <0> N13E-GTX (10DE,11A0,1028,02A2) H:--:NRM B:02,PCI,D:00,F:00 The number in the <> brackets is the index of the corresponding device. SLI users will have more than one entry and flash each card separately. Backup your current VBIOS: Never forget to keep a backup of your original VBIOS before you flash anything non-stock. Use this command to save a copy of the firmware to your USB drive: nvflash -b filename.rom or with nvflash --save filename.rom Flash the VBIOS to your card(s): For a single card it's really straight forward, you don't need to worry about the adapter indices. Just use this command: nvflash -6 vbiosname.rom -6 will allow you to override mismatches of the PCI subsystem ID. In case of a mismatch you'll need to confirm the flash with 'y'. NOTE: Users with a non-US keyboard might need to press 'z' or similar, because the 'y' isn't at the same location for all keyboard layouts. SLI users will need to flash each card separately. The concept stays the same, but you will need to use the corresponding adapter index to flash a card. How to figure out the adapter nr. is described above. Flashing goes like this: nvflash -i[index] -6 vbios.rom [index] represents a number, namely the index you found with the 'nvflash -a' command. So a command example to flash a card which has index 0 is: 'nvflash -i0 -6 vbios.rom' When the flashing starts, just wait until it says that it's done. Then reboot with Ctrl+Alt+Del and remove your USB drive. Pro tip: Let me know if I missed anything important or if you have questions.
    1 point
  5. OK, people have been asking for this for a while so I thought since I can tear this down in about 10min, I should do a quick write-up. Like the title said, I did this quick so pictures wont be the best but you will get a better understanding on how to teardown the system enough to at least repaste etc.. Here we go 1 - Shot of the underside 2 - Remove battery and the 4 screws in red to remove bottom cover 3 - Bottom Cover Off: Remove Screws Labeled I (5 of them in Red), P ( 5 in Blue), and HD Bay screws (4 in Green) 4 - Remove Hard Drives 5 - Remove Screws In Empty Hard Drive Bay (4 in blue) 6 - Remove the LCD Hinge Screws ( 4 in Red) and disconnect the wireless antennae (circled and traced in Red) 7 - Flip System over and open screen 8 - Pop off the media control panel by lifting the back right and left corners until it "pops" off. I find using my guitar pick helps with this 9 - Once the back corners have popped loose, run the guitar pick around the edges to loosen the rest (around the keyboard) 10 - Picture of the media panel loose but still connected with the ribbon cable (disconnect this now) 11 - Remove the Keyboard and macro keyboard screws ( 6 in Red) 12 - Disconnect all cables from the motherboard and graphic cards ( 11 in total) and 2 more lcd screws ( 2 in blue) This includes: 2 ribbon cables for the macro keyboard 2 ribbon cables for the keyboard 3 for the handrest/trackpad (2 on bottom, 1 near the right crossfire cable connector) 2 for the screen (one toward the bottom left, one at the top left) 2 for the crossfire cable (labeled L and R on the cable) 13 - Remove 3 more screws securing the cover ( 3 in Red). You will need to pop off this cover starting at the back... just lift until it pops off. If it is being difficult, make sure all screws labeled "P" on both the top and bottom are removed. 14 - Once the cover is off, remove the screws (going from #1-4) on your heatsinks.... clean and repaste. If anyone wants pics of the heatsinks removed just let me know (I took a couple but not really necessary for this guide). Once again, I did this all very fast so I know it is not as polished as it could have been.... but I wanted this out sooner than later for everyone to use. Let me know if anything is unclear etc... D.
    1 point
  6. I returned my Titan's for 780s. Been using the bios on my EVGA GTX 780 SC since last night and so far so good. Haven't ran into any bugs as of yet.
    1 point
  7. Damn... I just bought a y500 with sli 650m from microcenter today and figured out about the 750m version. Im really tempted to do the bios flash, that'll let me overclock this thing to 750's level right?
    1 point
  8. Anyone here using MSI Afterburner to up their memory clock and cpu clock? I noticed that when I up the memory clock past 1850mhz I get bad pixleation and my laptop reboots but I know I can run 1000/1400 and its stable and running about 72c for over 15min in FUR max settings. I running the newest drivers 320.18WHQL. I'm not sure if I should install the 310.70WHQL which most are using.
    1 point
  9. I have finally managed to break the 700 points record in Uningine Heaven 4.0 Benchmark. 701 points @ 1257 (+199MHz from 1058MHz) MHz core clock; 2795MHz (+295MHz from 2500MHz) VRAM clock. Max temp reached 88C on both GPU. Average about 82C. Settings are maxed out except AA. 1920 x 1063 2x AA windowed mode. For some reason the latest Nvid driver screws up exclusive fullscreen. I am running 320.18, and I also have a 240W ac adapter. This is 1256MHz core, 2780MHz VRAM. 700 points. 1257MHz core, 2795MHz VRAM. 701 points. I welcome anyone to try to break my record
    1 point
  10. Hi pierrePoutine, have you tried disabling BD Prochot, Short PWR duration limit, and C-states on your y500 within the bios? Do you have throttlestop @ 3.2ghz? I find that with all of these things my pc NEVER goes below 3.2ghz, unless I want it to (hotkeyed Throttlestop profiles for battery savings and stuff). The stock cooling design should be able to handle any increased heat without a problem (mine does at least). I have an on-screen display that tell me my GPU clock/utilization, as well as for the CPU, and it reports CONSTANT 3.2ghz, no matter the temperature.
    1 point
  11. I believe there are Clevos (not sure what's the name of the company building them) with high res matte screens. I game on an IPS (Dell U2412M) and it works equally well as any TN screen I used before. Even though in image quality and color saturation it actually falls behind RGB LED on M17x-R2 quite a bit. The reason is, I'm guessing, is that most people buying gaming laptops are fucking clueless (just browse around NBR and you'll get the idea) and fall for crap like i7 CPU while gaming on laptops with one of the worst screens ever (seriously, I used higher resolutions on my old Sony CRT screen ~15 years ago). Unless the consumers are educated (and I haven't seen either Dell HP or Lenovo doing anything on that matter; remember when they advertised their 6870M or whatever and claimed it gives "better" picture -- someone needs to educate them first ), I just don't see it happening.
    1 point
  12. I personally like the Windows 8 start menu, but would be nice to have a touch screen. I find myself using multi-touch a lot as it makes my life a lot easier to navigate around.
    1 point
  13. I will give you some proper numbers this weekend, regarding power consumption @ stock and possibly overclocked (if someone is kind enough to send me some tweaked vbios - I'm not naming anyone!) So far it runs cool enough: but still requires some better driver support I believe!
    1 point
  14. By any chance what thermal paste is the laptop using? Silicon or Diamond?
    1 point
  15. There is a pinned thread by svl7 which will give you all the information you need to accomplish this! Just successfully overclocked my new y500 GT 650m SLI by using modded BIOS and vBIOS for both cards.
    1 point


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