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  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0

    309 downloads

    NVIDIA 'Maxwell' VBIOS mods Here you find modified VBIOS versions for the mobile parts of the Nvidia 'Maxwell' series. The VBIOS versions in this post are tweaked for performance and versatility. You'll get almost complete control over the performance parameters of your GPU. List of available VBIOS mods: Nvidia GTX 970m - 'OC edition' rev0 - >> 6 GB Version << - modified by @johnksss & svl7 -> see attachments Nvidia GTX 980m - 'OC edition' rev0 - >> 8 GB Version << - modified by @johnksss & svl7 -> see attachments Screenshot demonstrating the capabilities of the 970m versions: >> Read the instructions carefully before flashing! << If anything is unclear after reading or if you have additional remarks, please post in the thread. Flashing: - Go to the device manager -> 'Display Adapters' -> chooser your GPU, right click on it and choose disable - Flash the VBIOS with mnvflash, a modified version of nvflash (see attachments). Here are detailed instructions for nvflash in case you aren't familiar with it. - After the flashing is done: Enable the GPU once again in the device manager. - Reboot Do NOT use driver 347.09, it's broken and useless and won't allow you to overclock, even with the stock firmware. Don't distribute the files hosted here outside of Tech|Inferno. Don't modify the files you download here. Donation link in case you want to buy me a beer Thanks and cheers!

    Free

  3. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0

    804 downloads

    Files contained in this archive: [Y580][Y480]-'unlocked_BIOS'_660mGHzEdition_WhitelistMod.zip 'Error 104' - fix.zip Lenovo Y580 - Y480 BIOS v8.00 (5DCN90WW) - Mod.zip Lenovo Y580 - Y480 BIOS v8.01 (5DCN90WW) - Mod.zip Lenovo_Y480_Y580_-_BIOS_V.206_[unlocked].zip Lenovo_Y480_Y580_-_BIOS_V.206_[unlocked][no whitelist].zip Y580-Y480_BiosFix.zip fpt-dos.zip fptw64.zip prr2.zip For information on how to use the files in this archive, see here: My donation link in case you want to buy me a beer

    Free

  4. 1 point
    In this thread you can post your requests for Lenovo ThinkPad T440p / T440s. If someone wants upgrade Wi-Fi card and remove whitelist, or unlock hidden additional menus and settings in bios setup menu, then you can post your request in this thread. Important! For creating bios backup and to flash bios mod, you must use any SPI programmer (like CH341A programmer) and a SOIC8/SOP8 test clip! Just dump your Bios using any SPI programmer (like CH341A programmer) and a SOIC8/SOP8 test clip, then post it in this thread or upload it to any fileserver and send me the link.
  5. 1 point
    BAKED BIOS FOR TM, KM, DM, P6, P4 SERIES with most menus and options unlocked. THESE BIOS MODS ARE ONLY FOR PEOPLE WHO KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING! NEW: I'M CURRENTLY WORKING ON V3.0 WHICH WILL INCLUDE UPDATED UEFI DRIVERS, MICROCODE BIOS SCREEN SHOT SUPPORT AMISCE SUPPORT(For some models) PLUS MORE. I'M ALSO WORKING ON MODS FOR OTHER MODELS TOO. ALL TM, KM AND DM SERIES ARE V2.0 AND NOW HAVE WINDOWS FLASHER INSTEAD, JUST EXTRACT AND RUN FLASH.BAT WARNING! BIOS FLASHING IS RISKY SO MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE PROCEEDING. FLASHING THE WRONG BIOS OR INTERRUPTING THE FLASHING PROCESS WILL BRICK YOUR SYSTEM! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! TM, KM AND DM SERIES P6 AND P4 SERIES INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU LIKE MY WORK FEEL FRE TO BUY ME A COFFEE ENJOY!
  6. 1 point
    NVIDIA 'Maxwell' VBIOS mods Here you find modified VBIOS versions for the mobile parts of the Nvidia 'Maxwell' series. The VBIOS versions in this post are tweaked for performance and versatility. You'll get almost complete control over the performance parameters of your GPU. List of available VBIOS mods: Nvidia GTX 970m - 'OC edition' rev0 - >> 6 GB Version << - modified by @johnksss & svl7 -> see attachments Nvidia GTX 980m - 'OC edition' rev0 - >> 8 GB Version << - modified by @johnksss & svl7 -> see attachments Screenshot demonstrating the capabilities of the 970m versions: >> Read the instructions carefully before flashing! << If anything is unclear after reading or if you have additional remarks, please post in the thread. Flashing: - Go to the device manager -> 'Display Adapters' -> chooser your GPU, right click on it and choose disable - Flash the VBIOS with mnvflash, a modified version of nvflash (see attachments). Here are detailed instructions for nvflash in case you aren't familiar with it. - After the flashing is done: Enable the GPU once again in the device manager. - Reboot Do NOT use driver 347.09, it's broken and useless and won't allow you to overclock, even with the stock firmware. Don't distribute the files hosted here outside of Tech|Inferno. Don't modify the files you download here. mnvflash_windows_5.196.zip Nvidia GTX 980m - 'OC edition' rev0.zip Nvidia GTX 970m - 'OC edition' rev0.zip
  7. 1 point
    In this thread you can post your requests for Lenovo G780. If someone wants upgrade Wi-Fi card and remove whitelist, or unlock hidden additional menus and settings in bios setup menu, then you can post your request in this thread. For prepare unlocked bios you should post your request here and then send me your file backup of bios via PM. For creating backup of bios use attached program. Extract attached archive directly on the Desktop and run the program as administrator (right click mouse). Program will create archive "results" directly on the Desktop. Send me this archive "results" via PM. https://www.sendspace.com/file/mxoavw or http://www120.zippyshare.com/v/NC9WuxRI/file.html
  8. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0

    64 downloads

    Free

  9. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0

    9 downloads

    Free

  10. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0

    7 downloads

    Free

  11. 1 point

    Version 5.513.0

    341 downloads

    Flashing Overview: - Go to the device manager -> 'Display Adapters' -> chooser your GPU, right click on it and choose disable - Flash the VBIOS with mnvflash, a modified version of nvflash (see attachments). Below are detailed instructions for nvflash in case you aren't familiar with it. - After the flashing is done: Enable the GPU once again in the device manager. - Reboot Detailed Instructions: As soon as you see the command line you're ready to go, write dir and hit enter to display all the files on the USB drive. Display all Nvidia adapters in the system: nvflash -a or alternatively the longer version of the command: nvflash --list This command will return you a list with all Nvidia adapters present in your system. Here's an example output of this command run on my M15x with a 680m in it: NVIDIA Firmware Update Utility (Version 5.117) NVIDIA display adapters present in system: <0> N13E-GTX (10DE,11A0,1028,02A2) H:--:NRM B:02,PCI,D:00,F:00 The number in the <> brackets is the index of the corresponding device. SLI users will have more than one entry and flash each card separately. Backup your current VBIOS: Never forget to keep a backup of your original VBIOS before you flash anything non-stock. Use this command to save a copy of the firmware to your USB drive: nvflash -b filename.rom or with nvflash --save filename.rom Flash the VBIOS to your card(s): For a single card it's really straight forward, you don't need to worry about the adapter indices. Just use this command: nvflash -6 vbiosname.rom -6 will allow you to override mismatches of the PCI subsystem ID. In case of a mismatch you'll need to confirm the flash with 'y'. NOTE: Users with a non-US keyboard might need to press 'z' or similar, because the 'y' isn't at the same location for all keyboard layouts. SLI users will need to flash each card separately. The concept stays the same, but you will need to use the corresponding adapter index to flash a card. How to figure out the adapter nr. is described above. Flashing goes like this: nvflash -i[index] -6 vbios.rom [index] represents a number, namely the index you found with the 'nvflash -a' command. So a command example to flash a card which has index 0 is: 'nvflash -i0 -6 vbios.rom' Donation link In case you want to buy me a beer Thanks and cheers!

    Free

  12. 1 point
    Correct firmware GM204 Board but... not flashable due to nvidia restrictions
  13. 1 point
    CH341A programmer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Programmer-CH341A-Series-Burner-Chip-24-EEPROM-BIOS-Writer-25-SPI-Flash-AU/153117073868?epid=577511738&hash=item23a67d21cc:g:XKEAAOSw5UdbW-iL https://www.amazon.com/Parts-tower-CH341A-Programmer-Software/dp/B01FVVHCVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522179315&sr=8-4&keywords=ch341a&dpID=51BO7eGgO5L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch SOIC8/SOP8 test clip: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soic8-Sop8-Flash-Chip-Ic-Test-Clips-Socket-Adpter-Bios-24-25-93-Programmer/201414947737?hash=item2ee5443399:g:up8AAOSw1Fda8qkt https://www.amazon.ca/MAUSAN-Socket-Adapter-150MIL-205MIL/dp/B06ZYSNJF3/ref=pd_sbs_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XM79QJWGED6B4K2VEZDJ How to use it: Also, you can search on YouTube a lot of guide for CH341a.
  14. 1 point
    Hey i have this problem but i can't seem to be able to download the tool you are providing
  15. 1 point
    Two new modified BIOS for M14x R1 users. Both based on A08, but with the same SATA performance as in A05.This allows GF106 users which are still on A05 to benefit from the fixes included in A08 while keeping the SATA performance of A05 and it allows GF116 users to get the benefits of A05 SATA behavior.It's actually the result of trying to bring GF116 support to A05 in order to change the SATA behavior (as requested by he_yincheng), since this didn't work as planned I tried it the other way around - bringing the SATA performance of A05 to A08, which succeeded. Thanks @he_yincheng for testing! Check here to see some screenshots he posted to verify that it is working as intended.There are two versions of this mod available, one is the standard A08 with only the SATA tweak and the other is the unlocked version of it.In the M14x R1 voltage mod thread you can also find both versions with an increased GPU voltage, GF106 and GF116 supported.As always with such mods, use at your own risk, I don't take any responsibility for possible issues. You are responsible for the changes you make on your system.Feedback is welcome!Donate link - feel free to buy me a beer if you like this mod M14xR1_A08_[unlocked]_incl_SATA_fix.zip M14xR1_A08_SATA_fix.zip
  16. 1 point
    Over at NBR in the "Pidge from nVidia" thread I posted up a screenshot of my HWiNFO64 during a sidetrack discussion of GTX 880M temperatures. D2 Ultima pointed out that my PCH was quite toasty: "Woah, the PCH was hitting 98 and averaging 95 there. Those things have an upper limit of 100c-105c, you should probably keep an eye on it or maybe try a cooling mod for it?" For those that are wondering... the PCH (Primary Controller Hub) is basically what used to a be known as a Southbridge. This all lead to further derailment of that thread to a short discussion of on PCH temps. My PCH has actually seen 108.5C as of the day before yesterday. That prompted me to tear down my laptop that evening. I started late and worked until 2am. Then I went to bed and finished up the next morning. Ok, enough prep. This is what I did. I had read that the P17xx series were a bit different than the P15x and P37x in terms of what it looks like under the keyboard. The other two models have free access to the PCH. Here is a link to n=1's PCH cooling mod for the P370SM. 5 mniute mod to improving PCH cooling in P370SM Well, it isn't quite so simple with the P17x series. As you can see, there is a big ol' chunk of plastic in the way. I can cut it, but I am not going near the assembled laptop with my dremel. A disassembly is in order to get to this thing. I am OK with that because I see it as a challenge and a chance to learn something (even if it's what not to do). Here is what I thought was an interesting picture. I have the top case all but separated from the bottom case. Getting the keyboard off is pretty easy. Just be careful of the two ribbon connectors. One is for the keyboard and one is for the backlight. The backlight ribbon is a pain in the butt to put back. All of the other ribbon cable connectors slide away from connector to release the ribbon. The backlight connector flips up. I didn't know that and I slide it away and the lock popped off. After some fiddling with it I dug through the service manual and the light went on. It's a tiny little bugger, but I got it back into place and everything still works. In this picture, the laptop is open and standing on the right side. The screen is on the far right and the bottom casing is on the far left. The top case is in the middle. Here you can barely see the PCH nestled under that nice, insulating plastic. No real hope of getting a breath of fresh air. In the second picture I have disassembled the laptop enough to get a better peek at the little hottie. My goal is to remove the top case so I can cut a hole in it and stack up thermal pads so they touch the bottom of the keyboard, which is a huge aluminum plate. This will make a nice heatsink for the PCH. This is the same thing that n=1 has done, only with less hassle than us P17x owners. Here the top case has been removed and you can now clearly see the PCH. I just eyeballed the location and marked it with a sharpie so I would have a guide before I head out to the garage for cutting. In a few minutes it's all done. I used a cutoff wheel at low speed. I cut straight down into the material from the top and then flipped it over and did the same thing from the bottom. Then I just pushed out the square cutout with my thumb. I am not too concerned about appearances with this mod as it won't normally be seen. After I was done cutting I used a wire brush at low speed to clean up the rough edges. I put the top case back on and find that my eyeballing wasn't too bad. Looks like I hit the mark pretty close. w00t! Now the only problem I have is I don't know how much stackup I need for my thermal pads. I used a 1/4 sheet of 1mm, 11.0 W/mK thermal pad from FrozenCPU.com which i cut with ordinary scissors. But, how tall to stack it? The answer is: modeling clay to the rescue. I just formed some modeling clay and stuck it on top of the PCH. Then I test fitted my keyboard, smushing the modeling clay. After that I removed the keyboard and measured the height of the smooshed modeling clay with my dial calipers. I measured .164" which is a bit more than 4mm. I cut and stacked 5 layers of 1mm thermal pad to make sure I had good contact. Then just put everything back together and played some games. The result was pretty good. The most I have seen is 85C on the PCH. The down side is the keyboard gets quite a bit warmer. I think the trade off is worth it. I was able to drop the max PCH temperature by 20c with this mod. BONUS: For those that are wondering, all three antennas are routed up to the screen bezel even if your configuration only uses two antennas. This is nice to know. If you think about it, it's a lot easier for Clevo to do this by default. The parts aren't expensive and it's one less thing to track if they all get it.
  17. 1 point
    T|I and the author are no longer associated. For support kindly contact the author directly
  18. 1 point
    Hi all! Figured since there aren't many avenues out there as of yet that properly show how to dissect your phoenix, I'd try to take up the mantle with my own experience in upgrading the LCD panel from FHD 1080 to the 4K panel. Before we get started, I'd like to present a list a useful tools to have beforehand if you intend to pursue this endeavor. I'll be providing pictures of my own tools as well as links to various components you need for purchase if you intend to follow-suit: MOD EDIT: ATTENTION HUGE PICTURE LOAD AHEAD!
  19. 1 point
    After a week of research, problems, crashes and clockspeeds that won't apply, i finally found the way to overclock this baby! WARNING: NEVER, EVER ,FLASH THE VBIOSES IN THIS GUIDE BEFORE YOU'VE READEN THIS WHOLE GUIDE! I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE ON YOUR MACHINE , DYING BIRDS OR ALIEN ATTACKS! So, you want to crank up your 8970M? Just follow the following steps in this guide to unlock it's full potential! Step 1: Uninstall every overclock program for your gpu like msi afterburner or sapphire trixx. If you don't do this you may get some interference and get some strange problems. Step 2: Because we are going to overclock we are going to need a unlocked power limit control. I made 3 vbioses, which are in the attachements, that have an unlocked power power limit that goes up to +50% and can be controlled with software and 2 of them also have a higher stock voltage programmed. You can choose between: - 1.025V +50% power limit (stock voltage, only unlocked power limit) - 1.050V +50% power limit (slightly higher voltage, unlocked power limit) - 1.075V +50% power limit (higher voltage, unlocked power limit) None of these bioses have a dangerous voltage, you can run these voltages 24/7 without problem if your temperatures allow it. Now you have to flash one of these vbioses, you can choose which one you want. The voltage can also be changed with software so you don't have to be afraid that you've chosen a vbios with a too low voltage to start with. Step 3: Now you've chosen a vbios you have to flash it, the program we are going to use is atiflash. (Don't use atiwinflash) This program will only run in DOS which is pretty nice because in dos there aren't program's that can ruin your vbios flash by blocking the program or just block it half way the vbios flash. But now we need to get a dos environment to get this program running, well that's pretty easy with the following tool: -HP USB Format Tool This tool can format your usb and put a dos environment in it which is bootable. For this you need the following files from the attachements: -HP USB Format Tool -Win 98 Boot files When you've downloaded them you have to install the HP USB Format tool and unpack the win98 boot files zip. After you've done that you put in your usb in your laptop and open the HP USB Format Tool. Then you have got to configure the HP USB Format Tool to format your usb the right way so it has the dos environment. These are the settings: - Format as FAT32 - Tick the "Quick Format" box - Tick the "Create a DOS startup disk" - Browse to the folder where the win98 boot files are in so it can create the dos environment with those files - Click on "start" Now you've succesfully formatted your usb stick with the bootable dos environment. Now you have got to download atiflash from the attachement and unpack the .zip Rename the .exe to atiflash and copy it to the root of your usb stick with the dos environment. You've also got to copy your selected bios file to the root of your usb. After that you will have the following things on your usb: -Bootable DOS environment files -Atiflash.exe -Thames.rom (the vbios) Now you have to restart your laptop and boot from the usb, you will shortly see a win98 boot screen and then you are in a simple dos environment. First, we want to check if you are flashing the vbios to the right card, so we use the following command: atiflash -i <gpu number=""> So i have only one gpu, so i will use the following command to check if i'm flashing the right gpu: atiflash -i 0 0 is the number of the first gpu, but you always got to check it before you are going to flash. And if it's not gpu number 0, you can try gpu number 1 or 2 or even 3 So after we determined which gpu number is the right number we will use the following command to flash the gpu: atiflash -p <gpu number=""> <bios file=""> So i have only one gpu and the bios file is called Thames.rom so i will use the following command: atiflash -p 0 Thames.rom That's it, you just flashed a new vbios in your 8970M! Step 4: Unplug your usb and boot in windows. You need to disable ulps before you can overclock, otherwise the card will just keep his stock clock when you are overclocking which you don't want To disable ulps you have to open regedit, open the search menu in regedit with ctrl+f and put in the search box: ulps Now you've got to set every registery key with ulps in it to 0 Because 0=off and 1=on and we want to turn of ulps. Step 5: Now we can get to the software part. First you download msi afterburner from the attachement and install it. Now you have got to right click on the MSI Afterburner shortcut and go to properties. Now you've got to add the command -xcl to the target like this: Default: "C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\MSIAfterburner.exe" </bios></gpu></gpu> With -xcl "C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\MSIAfterburner.exe" -xcl After you have done this you can launch msi afterburner, if it launches you can close it again and if it doesn't want to lauch (you click on the shortcut and nothing happens) it's also okay. This command will let MSI Afterburner change some registery keys and things so software voltage control is unlocked. The only thing is that MSI Afterburner doesn't support the vrm's on the 8970M so we will delete it again, we only needed it for the changes to the registery. Step 6: Now we have unlocked software voltage control and unlocked tdp control. We only need a program that supports the vrm's and can change the core clock, power limit and voltage. And there is such a program, Sapphire Trixx! You've got to download it from the attachement and install it. When you open it you will get the following settings in the overclock menu: -Core clock control -Memory clock control -VDDC control (the voltage control) -power limit control You can change everything except for the memory clock, if you change it for only 1 mhz your card will crash. Every 8970M has that problem and i think that it's a overclock protection or something like that. So well, here you've got it. Now you can clock your 8970M to the overclockers hell Don't flash these bioses on any other laptop than Clevo laptops The max voltage i recommend for 24/7 is 1.075V, you can go higher but i wouldn't recommend it for 24/7 But you can only run on your overclocked settings with ulps disabled. And if you disable ulps your 8970M won't turn off anymore so your battery life is ruïned. To fix this you have to do: Find the core clock/power limit/voltage setting that you prefer and post them in this thread. I can make a bios with those settings in it so you don't have to run any software and you can enable ulps again because the setting are now in the vbios file so the gpu loads them from the vbios, and not from the software. 8970M VBIOS 1.025V 50% power limit.zip 8970M VBIOS 1.050V 50% power limit.zip 8970M VBIOS 1.075V 50% power limit.zip atiflash.zip HPUSBFormatTool.zip MSIAfterburner.zip Sapphire_Trixx.zip win98boot.zip
  20. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0

    239 downloads

    Alienware M17x R3 A12 unlocked BIOS with tweaks on SATA settings Files contained in this archive: AtpTimerInfo.dll Ding.wav FWUpdLcl.exe InsydeFlashx64.exe iscflashx64.dll iscflashx64.sys PAR00MEC.fd platform.ini READ ME.txt xerces-c_2_7.dll To learn more about how to use the files in this archive, please visit the thread below: Donation link In case you want to buy me a beer Thanks and cheers!

    Free

  21. 1 point
    p.s. my heatsink is flat, i lapped it very well, but, my gpu core plate is really far from from, i was pretty surprised by how much, but i've did a bit of a cowboy job to brace the copper heat plate as firmly as possible to get the best possible contact with ic diamond, and if not perfect it's still much better than before the lapping. I have been wondering if getting a heatsink from eurocom would be better? they seem mildly beefier, my stock one was not even sitting straight, it bent upwards giving poor contact with memory chips which i had to spend some time fixing. One last thing, do you think 1.5mm 11/mk fujipoly pads stacked on top of eachother for the MOSFETS would be an improvement over the stocks pads? they definitely were for the memory chips (but they were not stacked). I have to stack as i can't find thicker ones in uk
  22. 1 point
    because it was useless as it was, great for a laptop with a weak fan but my clevo's fans are more powerful, and it just made laptop hotter. What i realised is that these fans expel a hell of a lot of air but have really crappy suction. The innitial plan see when i made the additional vents was to suck air out so i could install heatsinks and not have the air stagnate in the case, but these fans just don't do much. So when i turned them around i noticed temps dropped fast and stayed dropped but i was losing a lot of air because it just doesn't line and it's too big and clumbsy. That's when i decided to take them apart, and now they are much smaller and fit between the gpu and gpu vents nicely. I think the key to this working is that i made extra vents where the underside of the laptop slants up, so the cold air blows over the gpu and heatsink and out the underside though the front. You can feel the air blowing through ever so slightly though the front (underneath). That's why i'm really hopeful that the mini heatsinks could work well with this, because the fan is forcing air into, and then out of the laptop. come payday i'll experiment and get back to you guys anyway. Right now i run stable at +75mv and temps are between 78-80
  23. 1 point
    The MOSFETs, inductors and phases can get super hot and there is not a great way to prevent this when overclocking. Short of building more effective heat sinks, there is a limited amount you can do. If you have room inside of the chassis, you can try attaching copper blocks like the square RAM heat sinks to provide an additional path to wick away heat. What can happen is that such a mod starts off cooler, but ends up saturated with more hot metal and no good way to expel the heat without added air flow. The most effective mod would be additional heat pipes and larger heat sink radiators. I have attached a photo showing the parts that seem to get the hottest besides the core. The MOSFETS are in the blue boxes. These can get much hotter than the sensor for the GPU suggests, and these parts have no temperature sensors to alert us to the fact they are getting too hot. If you are seeing 85°C core temps, chances are great these other parts that have no sensor are getting insanely hot and causing your thermal instability. I am attaching a photo showing the copper RAM heat sinks mentioned above. They come with thermal adhesive tape. Move them around and find out if there is a spot where they help the most. Once you figure that out, and confirm adding them doesn't make the temps worse due to heat saturation, you can remove the thermal tape and use Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to attach them permanently. If you can keep the temps in the 70's for gaming with stock clocks and voltage that will be adequate. What I, @johnksss and @usmc362 do to manage the temps when doing extreme overclocked benching is use a portable AC unit. Obviously, trying to use a portable AC unit for normal everyday stuff isn't reasonable and it could cause some problems with condensation. If your heat sinks have a snug fit between the copper heat plate and GPU die using Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra or Phobya Liquid Metal thermal paste can make a huge difference. If they are a sloppy fit, then you need to use something like IC Diamond to plug the gap because the liquid metal thermal interface material doesn't work well at all with a sloppy fitting heat sink. I have to ask out of curiosity, why was it necessary to disassemble the housing on the booster fan? I am sure you had a good reason for doing that, but you did not explain why it was necessary to do that. It might be helpful information for others. c
  24. 1 point
    haven't tried yet, my main problem is that my card gets unstable above +50v increase, so right now i just want to get temps down, even tho 85degress is safe i really want to be under 80 like i am at stock if i can. Mod was easy, cut some grooves into the bottom plate to either such air out or blow air into (blowing worked better) and then i took apart the cooler and for now attached it with blue tac. Obviously if you have right tools and are more patient you can do much better job than me :) here's some pics -
  25. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0

    843 downloads

    Files contained in this archive: 'Error 104' Fix - v01.zip Lenovo Y500 - Y400 - BIOS [v2.02] - stock .zip Lenovo_Y500-Y400_-_Mod_[v2.04] (including update for 2.02 & 2.03 users).zip Lenovo-y500-y400-bios-[v2.02]-stock-.zip Y500 -Y400 - SLI 650m - 80.07.27.00.33 - OC.rom.zip Y500 - Y400 - SLI 750m - 80.07.9D.00.11 - OC.zip For instructions on how to use these files, see this thread: Donation Link: Here's the 'buy me a beer' link in case you like this <<

    Free

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