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Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

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12 hours ago, rusTORK said:

 

I played a bit in S.T.A.L.K.E.R. with runned HWiNFO64 sensors monitoring at background. Here is results:

53.thumb.jpg.651ea365e301c4c0009180c870a0d529.jpg

Right after GPU cool down to 53°C - CPU frequency go up. At the same time CPU temp was lower then 60 before that, but only after GPU cool down - frequency is recovered.

I have got shimming mod on my Y500. It's good, easy, cheap. But i didn't tested it YET with proper TIM (Graphite isn't proper, just interesting)....

 

I'll try to check the same in my system and report if there's anything different. 

You should disable the dGPU though since it's not being used when using eGPU and check if there's still throttling.

 

12 hours ago, rusTORK said:

...I thought about useing Kapton Tape to eliminate contact of GPU heatpipe of CPU heatpipe and stop transfer heat in that direction. But it's only an idea. Another option is useing Panasonic NASBIS, but it's expensive (same as their GraphiteTIM).....

 

The two heatpipes should be joined for more heat transfer. Single heat pipe for such a power hungry CPU is a bad joke from Lenovo.

 

3 hours ago, High_Voltage said:

 

This is a good point as well. Originally, the CPU and GPU heatpipes run isolated and only meet at the radiator of the heatsink. If you are running an eGPU setup, your dGPU is idling, therefore you can harness heat transfer capacity of the second heatpipe to reduce CPU temperatures.

 

I've definitely seen it done somewhere (maybe even on this forum). The guy has smudged thermal paste between the two heatpipes, allowing the second one to participate in heat extraction from the CPU, and reported a very significant decrease in CPU temps. I would imagine that this idea can be improved on by using better thermal compounds, such as thermally-conductive epoxy (very reliable but brittle and not very high thermal conductivity) or thermally-conductive silicone glue (the white rubbery stuff you find inside electronics). The ultimate solution would be to try soldering them together with some low melting point solder, like indium (157°C) or Rose's alloy (94°C).

 

I also used a thermally conductive epoxy but it didn't adhere properly as you can see below. I actually forgot about this lol. Have to clean up that mess and look for another solution.

 

glIc6Bb.jpg

 

Some folks have even used LM between Heatpipes but yeah soldering is the best option but it's very risky.

 

10 hours ago, Veter said:

This is called accuracy. I did everything neatly. Metal only concerned copper and processor. The radiator was attached to the processor over the entire area. And over the whole area there were crystals.
I thought you could tell me about the method of isolating metal from air. Your way in NO way isolates metal from air. Sooner or later it crystallizes. To be honest, you are the first living person who has not encountered the problem of crystallization. 

 

It can't dry out )) this is metal. it reacts with copper (the gray mark is the reaction). that is, one of the LM components is absorbed into copper (LM is a mixture of several metals) and the rest of the substance begins to change its properties. including crystallization. heating in this case speeds up the process.
On my working laptop (not Y500) LM worked for more than 18 months, because I do not play on it and do not do overclocking. Thus, the laptop worked most of the time with medium or low temperatures. 
What is your processor model

 

I am not interested in copper. The radiator works well with grinding and without grinding. I speak only about the fact that LM is an unfinished product. 

 

You shared your experience. I shared mine. You may consider yourself smart. It does not affect anything

 

Post some pics. Hard to believe you at this point when you say "i did everything neatly" because obviously you didn't.

 

What you are referring to as crystallization is actually a galvanic corrosion which happens because Gallium (from LM) migrates into Copper and yes heating will speed up this process. But it doesn't hamper with thermal conductivity. It's merely a stain which will stay forever but the resulting alloy can be easily sanded off (take a look at one of my pics i posted above). 

I've already explained that this happens at the surface level. You're not going to find that the whole copper has been converted into some kind of alloy due to the corrosion.

 

That is why when you apply LM for the first time, you use it for 2-3 weeks so that most of the gallium from LM will be absorbed in the Copper, open laptop again, sand off the copper layer with some high grit sandpaper (i used 1200) and apply or reuse LM again. If you do this there won't be much further corrosion since the first layer is already an alloy (the grey color) and there's not much copper left there.

 

LM is not a mixture of several metals. There are only a few main ingredients: Gallium, Indium and Tin. 

 

11 hours ago, Veter said:

....To be honest, you are the first living person who has not encountered the problem of crystallization....

 

Even Google doesn't know what you're talking about. 

 

You either used a lot of LM or you have a poorly fitting heatsink. Maybe both. 

 

I still have LM on my CPU and i don't have any issues with temperatures even after a year of application. I'm speaking of my own experience and not trying to make something up to make you look bad. 

 

11 hours ago, Veter said:

...I speak only about the fact that LM is an unfinished product...

 

If i don't know how to drive and somebody forced me to drive a Tesla Roadster and I wreck it doesn't mean that car was unfinished lol.

 

11 hours ago, Veter said:

...You may consider yourself smart. It does not affect anything

 

That's your opinion and i am smart. Opinions can't be wrong.

 

Anyway I tried to help you but looks like you don't want it. i'm out of this convo. Next time you want to use something like that make sure you do your homework.

 

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7 minutes ago, intruder said:

I'll try to check the same in my system and report if there's anything different. 

I forgot to mention, that i played S.T.A.L.K.E.R. on dGPU. eGPU was connected, but i wanted to test CPU and dGPU only, how they act when heated. Y510p have an advantage here, since have got both iGPU and dGPU...

 

I tested eGPU only, but it was tricky. I have to disable BOTH iGPU and dGPU in BIOS and it give me funny thing = system boot, i hear windows loading sound, but screen is black. Then i instert HDMI emulator in eGPU and boom - i see loging screen on internal monitor.

 

P.S. At the same time, i REALLY like when eGPU idle it's not spinning fans and have no load on GPU.  When i disable dGPU and run only on eGPU - i see in EVGA XOC, that it's always have got high frequency even when i just browsing and temp go up (at idle temp about 40°C).

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3 hours ago, rusTORK said:

I tested eGPU only, but it was tricky. I have to disable BOTH iGPU and dGPU in BIOS and it give me funny thing = system boot, i hear windows loading sound, but screen is black. Then i instert HDMI emulator in eGPU and boom - i see loging screen on internal monitor.

That’s true? Wow.

 As far as I know, the internal display relies on the iGPU to work.

If only an emulator can do as you said, maybe there’s a way to use eGPU @ internal display on y400/500.

Can you share your related bios/system settings? Huge thanks!

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Swung Huang said:

If only an emulator can do as you said, maybe there’s a way to use eGPU @ internal display on y400/500.

Can you share your related bios/system settings? Huge thanks!

In Y500 iGPU disabled and display connected to dGPU. But it's possible to disable everything, and use eGPU since there really no information about second GPU in BIOS. Some info you may find in my topic about Lenovo Y500 and iGPU. Right here at Tech | Inferno. No luck with iGPU revive yet. Probably need hardware method.

 

 

Edited by rusTORK

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Posted (edited)

My beast finally returned. I thought i did something wrong during GPU maintanance service.

 

I installed old drivers (399.24) just to compare with my old screenshots and also used old error 43 fixer (v1.0) from ********* (LOL, i can't use his name here?)

 

Here what was at 416.16:

TE1.jpg.657ee9fe19e407da4dc9bd818b0f82fd.jpg

dGPU enabled,

picture on eDisplay (HDMI emulator)

 

Same driver (mistery 60 FPS cap with VSync disabled)

TE3.jpg.22199c0126c995f202e44af53ca89430.jpg

dGPU disabled

picture on Main (internal) display

 

Here is what now with 399.24 and proper installation and fix:

TE2.jpg.5d4f951372b5b2cfe13962e3d3e310b4.jpg

dGPU enabled,

eDisplay (HDMI emulator)

 

I uninstalled NVIDIA drivers (with DDU), reset BIOS and corrected only memory speed and always ON USB. After that installed NVIDIA driver 399.24 and fixed error 43 in device manager. That's all!

Edited by rusTORK

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11 hours ago, intruder said:

Post some pics.

I installed LM 2 years ago. No photo. What for? To argue with everyone in the Internet?

12 hours ago, intruder said:

is actually a galvanic corrosion

Most people call it crystallization. It is easier to understand each other. Especially if you have to write in a foreign language (English). Do you think you should throw each other in scientific terms?

12 hours ago, intruder said:

It's merely a stain

I wrote earlier "I am not interested in copper. The radiator works well with grinding and without grinding." The problem was between the stain and the CPU. The remains of the metal turned to sand (small crystals), so crystallization is often said.

12 hours ago, intruder said:

sand off the copper layer with some high grit sandpaper (i used 1200) and apply or reuse LM again. If you do this there won't be much further corrosion since the first layer is already an alloy (the grey color) and there's not much copper left there.

That's what I said (but you started talking about the air). Here is your secret! Before that, you didn’t talk about metal re-installation. 
So you DO NOT remove the resulting gray layer completely? Do you put LM on this layer again? 
Did I translate and understand your words correctly?

 

12 hours ago, intruder said:

Gallium, Indium and Tin

This is the mixture of several metals. Then I do not understand what you are arguing.

12 hours ago, intruder said:

Even Google doesn't know what you're talking about.

I exchanged experiences with real people. And 2 years ago, the problem was not solved.
And on the Internet you can find anything. But the Internet is not a guarantee of truth.

12 hours ago, intruder said:

not trying to make something up to make you look bad.

And then you write this:

12 hours ago, intruder said:

make sure you do your homework

Do you really think that I am a schoolboy? Do you think so just because I disagree with you? Or is it some kind of expression in the English language?
In any case, I was not upset, because I perfectly understand what the language barrier is.

12 hours ago, intruder said:

it doesn't mean that car was unfinished

If >50% of consumers could not benefit from the product, then yes it is unfinished (2 years ago it was)

12 hours ago, intruder said:

I tried to help you

This is the biggest mistake of any person. He begins to help, but no one asked for help. I originally wrote to rusTORK. After that, you started giving advice.
In any case, I understood you. Thank you for sharing your experience.

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@Veter and @intruder Well, since i didn't used LM on my leptop yet, information from both of you was interesting for me. It may be positive information, negative information, but more important is information itself.

 

Let's stay focus on adapter  and how it perform. We still have got a problem that not everyone who need adapter - may actually get it.

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Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, Veter said:

I installed LM 2 years ago. No photo. What for? To argue with everyone in the Internet?

Most people call it crystallization. It is easier to understand each other. Especially if you have to write in a foreign language (English). Do you think you should throw each other in scientific terms?

I wrote earlier "I am not interested in copper. The radiator works well with grinding and without grinding." The problem was between the stain and the CPU. The remains of the metal turned to sand (small crystals), so crystallization is often said.

That's what I said (but you started talking about the air). Here is your secret! Before that, you didn’t talk about metal re-installation
So you DO NOT remove the resulting gray layer completely? Do you put LM on this layer again? 
Did I translate and understand your words correctly?

 

"Re-installation" isn't even needed. It's a mere precaution to increase effectiveness (again, you missed your homework).

The issue is, with proper application of LM, your "crystals" as you call them can't even be seen with naked eye. You'd need a microscope. 

 

The reason i was talking about copper is because of what you wrote. "Two small holes" after using LM on copper? Hilarious. Are you sure it was copper? Could be aluminium which will create more than 2 holes lol.

You're right about language barrier i guess.

 

On 4/2/2019 at 1:13 AM, Veter said:


....I disassembled the laptop: the metal crystallized on the CPU, the heel of the copper radiator received two small holes and LM penetrated into the entire top layer of copper.....

 

47 minutes ago, Veter said:

...If >50% of consumers could not benefit from the product, then yes it is unfinished (2 years ago it was)...

 

Most people also don't benefit from education. :P

 

 

40 minutes ago, rusTORK said:

@Veter and @intruder Well, since i didn't used LM on my leptop yet, information from both of you was interesting for me. It may be positive information, negative information, but more important is information itself.

 

Let's stay focus on adapter  and how it perform. We still have got a problem that not everyone who need adapter - may actually get it.

 

Agreed. No more OT from my side.

 

Congrats on figuring out the issue.

Edited by intruder

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On 4/2/2019 at 5:40 PM, Tesla said:

Version 00, and yeah I did edit stock bios image v2.07 and did a zero fill on the microcode section, I then applied slv7 on the top of modded bios just coz I wanted to replace the dreadful wifi adapter.

and last but not least you have to delete the .dll microcode file from your system32 and do couple of restarts. it took me like 7 restarts or so before I was able to edit the clocks in throttlestop on win 10 v1809.

 

Please note that when you edit the hex values, the microcode length for 2.07 is i believe was 40 (unlike what is mentioned in the original guide). Also you need to replace the removed part with 0s.

 

I would upload the final modded bios image but that would be against the forum rules. So lets move it to PMs *wink wink*

 

I was able to mod 3.08 bios and successfully flashed it by comparing and understanding your 2.07 version.

 

I can exploit that mcode bug but now there's a new issue. After i delete the dll from system32, instant crashing with stock ucode within 5 mins. I'll head over to pm.

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Adapter still works, my design is on 2 layer PCB. So maybe it enaugh and high impedance 4 layer PCB is not needed. I can make some last mods (I want to make PCIE power traces wider) and order like first 10 PCB at JLCPCB.Right now I have only 5 Ultrabay connectors but if there will be enaugh interest I can order more of them and produce more adapters. 

There is only one think in my conserns, that is: If I turn laptop off PSU is still up until I unplugg laptop power supply. Do you know about some bios setting which could cause it? 

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4 hours ago, Zakyn said:

There is only one think in my conserns, that is: If I turn laptop off PSU is still up until I unplugg laptop power supply. Do you know about some bios setting which could cause it? 

 

Try disabling wake-on-LAN if it is enabled.

 

Also, if you share your final schematic, I could have a look.

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Posted (edited)

@Zakyn I still want two adapters and am prepared to wait, so please put a coupple aside for me!

Edited by Jump

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On 3/23/2019 at 11:46 PM, ChuchoAV said:

Hi new member here, been following this forum for a bit, hopping not to sound rude, is there any news on this adapter?

They are still alive, and I could still make them in the future.

After I finished my NCEE......

  • Thumbs Up 2

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2 hours ago, Swung Huang said:

in the future

This is probably good news. How much time do you need?) Аpproximate.

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Veter said:

This is probably good news. How much time do you need?) Аpproximate.

I have said somewhere in this thread before. I will take part in my NCEE on 6/8 2019 and it finishes at late 6/9 UTC+8. Then maybe I will go on and work on the adapter. I can’t give a exact time but you can estimate using the time I said before.

Edited by Swung Huang

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On 4/4/2019 at 4:23 PM, High_Voltage said:

 

Try disabling wake-on-LAN if it is enabled.

 

Also, if you share your final schematic, I could have a look.

Zakyn_eGPU_v3.pdf not much changes since last version :)

 

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Posted (edited)

As soon as I solve the power issue (PSu stays up after laptot is off- if laptop is on charger), I will make 10 adapters. I hope I order PCB within the one week. Price will be 100 USD plus shipping.

Edited by Zakyn

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1 hour ago, Zakyn said:

not much changes since last version

 

Hm, I don't see any difference to my own schematic I made following Gerald's designs.

 

Can you measure PSU_ON voltage with the laptop on and off? Does it always stay 3.3V, or could it be that it drops, but not completely to zero?

 

In order to set aside any suspicion on BIOS settings, you could try with original BIOS and an AMD card, for example. Or with Nvidia, and just wait until the laptop powers itself off-

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Guys, which option do you all prefer?

1. i7-4700MQ (4c8t@2.4Ghz) + GTX 1080TI via eGPU adaptor or

2. Ryzen 3 2200G (4c4t@3.9Ghz) + GTX 1080TI

 

My laptop y510p at idle is already 50+ degree celcius, if the majority of you guys managed to run things cool after CPU OC while using an eGPU adaptor, then it will be a strong encouragement for me to go with the eGPU adaptor (Hopefully shipping fees is not heavy for my country).

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I personally don't like when cores = threads, but you should get more performance from Ryzen simply because there is x16, not x8 PCI-E.

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7 hours ago, jxfong2 said:

Guys, which option do you all prefer?

1. i7-4700MQ (4c8t@2.4Ghz) + GTX 1080TI via eGPU adaptor or

2. Ryzen 3 2200G (4c4t@3.9Ghz) + GTX 1080TI

 

My laptop y510p at idle is already 50+ degree celcius, if the majority of you guys managed to run things cool after CPU OC while using an eGPU adaptor, then it will be a strong encouragement for me to go with the eGPU adaptor (Hopefully shipping fees is not heavy for my country).

 

I'd prefer a desktop for more performance everytime but since i travel around a lot, eGPU makes sense for me. 

 

If you can manage thermals then you can do all sorts of OC and convert it into a beast of a CPU but of course it will decrease the lifetime of the cpu/motherboard. 

 

My current setup is very high OC to 4.3GHz only for benchmarks and 3.4-3.5GHz all cores for daily tasks/games 24/7.

 

I'm staying away from high CPU OC (more than default 3.6Ghz) for longer durations since it makes the cpu go power hungry (if you unlock power limits), I am pretty sure the motherboard won't be able to withstand that much power (already had two cases of power connector burn signs). 

 

TL;DR even controlling thermals won't be of much help if you're looking to OC and want long life of your laptop.

 

8 hours ago, rusTORK said:

I personally don't like when cores = threads, but you should get more performance from Ryzen simply because there is x16, not x8 PCI-E.

 

AFAIK, x8 PCI-E vs x16 PCI-E won't make much (any?) of a difference when it comes to single GPU.

 

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2488-pci-e-3-x8-vs-x16-performance-impact-on-gpus

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On 4/7/2019 at 8:56 PM, High_Voltage said:

 

Hm, I don't see any difference to my own schematic I made following Gerald's designs.

 

Can you measure PSU_ON voltage with the laptop on and off? Does it always stay 3.3V, or could it be that it drops, but not completely to zero?

 

In order to set aside any suspicion on BIOS settings, you could try with original BIOS and an AMD card, for example. Or with Nvidia, and just wait until the laptop powers itself off-

So I did some tests. 
1) power off with charger and measure the transistor gate voltage (before the resistor) -> still 3,3V
2) no effect if gpu is inserted or not

3) tryied various bios settings, nothing seems to help
4) if the charger is plugged back in psu wont switch back on

I cant find any bios setting which could influence it. Any advice welcome.

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Posted (edited)
On 2/19/2019 at 6:15 AM, Blk6Jeff said:

Good afternoon,

 

I recall that someone was working on casing for gerald's eGPU. I was wondering if any progress has been made on that, or if it's still a thing being worked on?

It’s a finished product:) 

Anyone who wants it may reply to this posting and I will consider shipping them?

Won’t before June :)

Edited by Swung Huang

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