First I want to thank the community, who have inspired me to do this project.
I will give you guys the chance to follow me on this journey.
I hope you will all help me come up with ideas, techniques and parts that could become handy.
This modding may be possible to convert to allot of laptops.
Here is the measurement of the went hole.
77mm X 16mm
I have 2 ideas for what can be done.
I own a Clevo P151SM1 that I bought in a hurry last year after my Alienware died on me. It's done a good job of playing everything I've thrown at it but lately, it's been shutting itself off when I play certain games or graphics-heavy programs. When idle it sits around 38C which is great. But when I get into a game it skyrockets up to 97C as the last recorded temp before it shuts itself off. I've cleaned the fans and keep it on an elevated cooling pad (no fans on the pad cause I broke them) but it gets plenty of air. I know that 97C is probably damaging the card and I don't want that. Does it look like I'm going to have to repaste it? I've attached my latest readings if that would help.
Since I switched over to a single card I have all this extra space and a heat sink and fan no longer in use.
I was wondering if there would be a cheap alternative to buying the duel/6 pipe heat-sink - It is pretty expensive.
Is there a way to mod/bridge the one two I have now . I attached a photo of what it looked like before I switched to a single card. Basically the right (slave) is empty.
Of course I am not expecting a mod that would work as good as the 6-pipe heat sink built for my system. But it would be cool if I could use what I have and get my temps a little lower.
After messing with my Toshiba Qosmio this is where the fun starts for me.
Hopefully someone else can also use some of this info for their own cooling mods.
So i got this M17x R4 with a broken screen.
I7 3610, 8 gigs ram, 7970M etc.
Colors were all 70s psycho (LCD panel was cracked)
Replaced almost the whole laptop with new parts, brand new 120hz screen, brand new 3920xm, almost new Gtx 880M Oem dell from an M18.
New SSD drive among other things.
The question presents itself, how to cool the thing down some more.
I took out the Cpu heatsink, added another Pipe. Turns out the ones i had was too short and fluid filled.
Had to use my biggest iron and solder it shut before using epoxy on it to be sure.
Grinded off some rough edges and smoothed out the transition where the fins are.
This Metal epoxy is doing an alright job transferring heat from the core pad to the fins aswell.
I thought about buying the M17x R5 4 pipe cpu heatsink on ebay and modify it to fit.
I wont dremel off the aluminum bracket (upper left in this image) to make the 4th pipe fit, because then the lower cover will be losing out on a clip.
I hate loose panels so will look into cutting the 4th pipe on the 4 pipe cooler just before it reaches the chassis.
As you can see in the picture i need to grind off a piece of the aluminum just over the inner bend to make the most out of the 4th pipe if i go that route later
And so to the GPU, there is hardly enough room to fit a pipe over these three. I ordered 10 or so packets of heatsinks and coolers from some small gaming notebooks, i will get this next month.
Im thinking a wide pipe that i bring to a friend of mine for flat machine pressing, or a cnc machined flat piece of aluminum over here. I dont think The ebay R5 - 5 pipe will work with the stock bottom as is.
The GPU fan, i will buy a packet of small "P" gaskets and show you what i mean with forced cold air induction tomorrow.
Im not an engineer, but why add the hole under the keyboard. Hot air goes up not down.
On the Qosmio adding the gasket around the Fan and blocking the upper nonsense vent lowered the temps by quite a few degrees C
And finally the gaps around the fins, there will be some of the same gasket here.
No need to waste precious airflow from this (in my mechanical world) puny fan.
In this image you can see the bracket covering the inner Pipe, so a straight flat pipe will do it or the machined piece im thinking about.
Also around the edges of the fins around 5 pct of the airflow is returning back into the case. And what the heck were they thinking when they made the heatsink fins naked at the bottom leaking hot air everywhere.
Even Toshiba knew they hat to cover it to keep air flowing the right way.. outside of the case.
To be continued
Hi guys , like you can see Im begginer, student and noob from east Eu that accidentaly bought clevo p170hmx few months ago. Specs are
2x 500gb SSD
FSP standard 220W PSU (I think its 220w 19v-11.57A)
Everything was fine till this weekend I was playing doom4 for 3 hours and Pc just crashed with black screen with sound still runing , than fan went loud with 6 loud beeps . Who crashed said it was TLDR bug. Wrom that point laptop works fine but when I start any game or furmark after few seconds to few minutes it crash with same symptoms. What I did try is , tldr change from 2 to 8 and its same, 10 different drivers with DDU, system reinstall, flashed original vBios on card (i noticed that after first crash memory would stuck to 130-300mhz in games and furmark , after flash it was normal all again but still crash after 1min or less )
Now what I did that gave me result is lowering GPU and memory clocks from 620/1500 to 480/1333 now it looks stable. I couldn find vBios with higher voltages to flash cos Im noob and I did try bios mod with Nbitor but allways ended up with corrupted bios that didnt want to load from cmd with nvflash. I didnt try to flash bios for mobo (p170hm) cos I cant find one and that lead me to registration on this forum. My gustion is whats wrong with my notebook and how to fix it...btw I found nvidia Quadro 3000m but dont know will it work on p170hm, If I cant get p170hm to optimal state Ill go with exp Gdc beast and one hd7970 from my desktop cf system just for fun. Sry for bad English.