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[HARDWARE MOD]**Clevo P650SG / Sager NP8652 4K display UPGRADE**

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Dear fellow Clevo P650SG/NP8652 owner and future owner, I wanted to share my experience with upgrading the very disappointing 1080p LVDS display to the beautiful eDP Sharp 4k display, and yes it is possible! However it is not given to everyone to do, it is not an easy process, but if you are careful, skilled with fine soldering and care for gently taking apart and rebuild your brand new laptop, don’t mind losing warranty and get a bit of stressful time then it might be interesting for you.

Before this, I’d like first to give you some background :

After months of searching for the perfect laptop that offer raw performance (latest 4Ghz CPU, 32GB RAM, light weight (ideally <2.2kg) with great GPU with VRAM, M.2 PCie 4x ,etc.. ) I finally made decision to go for P650SG that is somewhat one of the closest to my dream spec , even if weight is still a too high, and CPU not so out there (since resellers don't carry the 4980hq, too expensive and overheat problem).

I ordered the laptop from Sager, it was very smooth. Got help from a friend in US, who carried it back to me during its last international travel. My total budget was ~ $3000 USD including the other parts that I bought separately.

I am based in China, the Clevo reseller here is named Terran Force, and their price are ridiculously high. Sager was a good choice although I knew that any return to US in case of problem with the laptop would be impossible, shipment is not a valid option, Chinese customs can hold your laptop in hostage asking to pay extra unrealistic fees.

HEAR ME OUT : already hit by California tax for ordering with Sager, I did not have any extra $350+tax to pay for 4k Sharp display upgrade. And for a $3000 laptop I was really really REALLY UNHAPPY with the default 1080p screen.

Why $3000 ? If you buy Clevo like me is that you look for raw performance and top of the line hardware, with similar build:

  • RAM = 32GB G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR3L 2133 F3-2133C11Q-32GRSL
  • SSD main (1.2GB/s)= SM951 256G SSD NGFF M.2PCI-E3.0x4
  • SSD work (530MB/s)= 850PRO 512GB
  • HDD(storage) = HGST HTS721010A9E630 1TB 7200tr
  • WIFI Killer AC 1525

After adding those items which seem to be very important to me, I am hoping to get a better price/performance compare to Apple Macbook PRO or Razer blade , both 3k range laptop, otherwise why bothering going for a custom build ?

But I had no budget left for 4K display upgrade ! and here in China, one can buy the QFHD SHARP IGZO (LQ156D1JX01B) for just 800 RMB ($130) if not less...

Being an engineer in the field of displays I thought I could do the change myself specially that it is a possible upgrade when buying the laptop on all reseller’s website.

How difficult could it be ?

This laptop is my new everyday work best friend for the next 10 years, it has to have a 4k display.

I work with CAD tools that requires strong CPU for intensive simulations. Some of them can benefit from the GPU cores, which is also the reason for getting a good GPU. I am not a gamer. I am a designer, this is my workstation.

I told Sager by email before passing order that I was going to buy the laptop and that I was going to upgrade the display myself because I could not afford the $410 (350+tax) extra.

Thanks to the community support, the Service Manual ( P65XSG_ESM.pdf ) helped me to find out that I needed a different cable to be used with the Sharp display.

Sager was really kind to sell that cable separately (6-43-P6501-051-1C), which I received in the same package with the new laptop.

I received the laptop, OMG ! really great ! not perfect but really great. (PS : supply power is almost heavier than the laptop itself ! LOL , so much for my dreamed 2.3kG max laptop…)

Now the frustration begins … should I change /no change the display ? hummm, that would probably break the warranty …

but as soon as you see the 1080p display , I wanted to CRY !!!!!

I am replacing a 10year old MSI barebone MS-163K core duo P8600, 4GB ram, bought on ebay for $450.

I can’t describe my sadness when comparing both laptop screen ! … my 10year old $450 laptop has a much better display than this crazy ugly 1080p screen… :(

For anyone skeptical about this : just starts The elder scroll Skyrim and see how the grey smoke over black from the main menu is … pixelated and UGLY !!!

WHY ???? …… WHAT ???? a 6-bit color display ?????? a $3,000 laptop ???? :angry:

IPS whatever I don’t care, I am so disappointed to find out it is only 6-bit color. SHAME

Today we are all using smartphone with high DPI, 720p for 4.7inch with better color rendering!

========================================================================

If - CLEVO - is reading those lines :

Why do you even miss out so badly on the display quality when the rest is so good ?

We customers buy this laptop for high-end alternative to Apple MBP and Razer Blade Pro,

why using a such 10 year old technology of 262k colors when everywhere else it is 16M color or even 1 billion color ?

which I am used to see on my 50inch TV using 10-bit color panel bought for $850 (Skyworth 50U790E) ?

========================================================================

I am sorry, I can’t understand and feel really bad about this. And this is not because LVDS. LVDS can support 8-bit or 10-bit, I know , I am an LVDS IC designer.

I am upset , but ok since I already planned to swap displays ….my new best friend is asking for it, I mean screaming for it !

I swapped the cable and put in the new 4k SHARP display…. And then NOTHING ! dead screen … black !

I put back the 1080p one, …. Nothing, black !

At this moment you wonder why you have so much bad luck ! to realize that the default 1080p display is LVDS and SHARP display uses eDP !!!

to realize that the motherboard is indeed NOT COMPATIBLE ! and easy to burn something with the wrong connector.

A quick call to Sager support, confirmed my fear, that they actually don’t do any “upgrade” per say, it is fake, it is just a different model.

Why call it an upgrade ? very confusing for customers, It leads to make us believe we can swap parts… well this is not Apple product, right ? we are all tech guys who know better and like upgrade freedom and Clevo is our good partner right ?

At this point I feel so cheated… my $3000 laptop , with ugly display.Cheated by Sager who never said that motherboards are not compatible and who could have shipped an eDP version instead with another default 1080p eDP display, and feel cheated by Clevo for not using eDP always which is used by CPUs since 2004 to try to save few bucks.

I feel disappointed by Clevo/Sager that 4k display comes with $400 overpriced price tag, when they indeed don’t even do any extra manual swap of the screen because it is done at assembly in factory, for that price I could change my old cellphone to a latest Xiaomi flagship phone or what not.

I naively thought... well , I need to pay for wages for an US tech support person to do the swap plus display cost… maybe could make sens why not…, but it is not the case! a $300 scam ?

I got the 4k SHARP display for $130 , meaning factory cost & high volume could just be $10-70, (Alibaba can be found for $10-$25) minus the existing 1080p LVDS display maybe $10-20 and the eDP/LVDS converter Realtek RTD2136N-CG IC and extras, few $ ,

we are looking at a $10-30 saving factory cost…putting a so bad display into a “to be” $3000 USD high end laptop. ???:22_002:

<><> SORRY MY BRAIN DOESN”T COMPUTES RIGHT! Numbers are probably off, but you get my point !

I am IN RAGE, but what can I say?

Sager did their job as reseller, they sell so many different laptop, how could they really pay attention to details, my experience with them was ok and very helpful they provided me the extra cable, and Clevo, well , I am glad they exist, giving us a good alternative for solid laptop solution, how can I not forgive this mistake compare to all the good things they do for me?

Then it is only you and me , my friend, I will take care of you… yeah I know the warranty loss … but I can’t bear seeing you like this anymore… let’s go to the operating room !

====================================================================================

DISCLAMER : I PERSONALY DO NOT RECOMMEND TO DO THOSE MODIFICATIONS IF YOU PLAN TO BUY A NEW P650SG/NP8652 LAPTOP. THE RISK TO BURN SOMETHING, MENTAL STRESS, WORK TIME & EFFORT, IT IS JUST NOT WORTH IT, BETTER FIND A WAY TO PAY THE $400 EXTRA COST TO GET FULL WARRANTIED PRODUCT WITH 4K SCREEN, AND SAVE YOURSELF POSSIBLE HEART ATTACK. I OFFER NO WARRANTY FOR THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS, DOING SO IS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

I HAD NO CHOICE BECAUSE I COULD NOT SEND BACK THE LAPTOP TO SWITCH DUE TO MY LOCATION, AND COULD NOT BARE TO SEE THIS UGLY 6-BIT COLOR DISPLAY FOR THE NEXT 10 YEARS.

====================================================================================

What you need :

  • Screw drivers
  • Flat table with clean space
  • Cups to put the screen into ( so they don’t fall on the floor or disappear)
  • Electrostatic discharge equipment, (or at least, wear only cotton on you, operate in a room with stone tiles flooring, no carpet, etc… )
  • Wash your hands often, to avoid leaving finger grease and sweat marks
  • Download and study P65XSG_ESM.pdf

What to buy :

===============================================================================

A] GENERAL

We will first add eDP support to motherboard, then swap the 1080p LG display.

00_IMG_20150228_155534b_zpsiz9tjytn.jpg

Here is referenced the cables and respective compatible displays

00_P650SG_displays_SHARP_zps34qqofyj.png

Schematic shows that motherboard PCB is the same for eDP and LVDS version, and changing it is just question of removing VRx/VCx and adding ERx/ECx.

00_Panel_CON_sch_zpshqe4aykf.png

00_SHARP_reference_zpskyiuwkj3.jpg

B] PUT APPART - MOTHERBOARD

Remove the 14x screw in the back, remove the carter.

Pay attention 2 screw are extra long, they fit in the corners near on the display side.

ADVICE: Take pictures along the way so you remember your steps.

10_cover_removed_zpshkhmvk9x.jpg

Unplug the battery, wait 1 min for PCB to discharge.

11_remove_battery_zpsxh6honjy.jpg

Remove HDD case, Pcie SSD, Battery, WIFI,

Remove CPU FAN. ( it is not attached to CPU heatsink)

(KEEP CPU HEATSINK, NO NEED TO REMOVE IT UNLESS YOU WANT TO RE-PASTE CPU)

Unplug the display cable and wrap the cable plug with paper, so it doesn’t touch anything on PCB.(to be short safe)

Remove the GPU heatsink + FANS (1 block)

12_Unplug_fan_cables_zpse2sxnyzk.jpg

Disconnect all the Flat cables from back side mother board.

Remove keyboard : Now look at the back cover there is a hole that is for removing keyboard. Use something with a flat tip to go in this hole and push gently the keyboard out. It will bent a bit , try to grab it with fingers on display side and un-clips it . The touch pad side is different, I have difficulty to explain, see the service manual. Be gentle, there are 2 flat cables connected under the keyboard. Need to be skilled to remove/put back the FPC (flat cable). First time, is surprising, so go slowly, take your time.

13_FPC_under_keyboard_zpsicgzyadn.jpg

Under the Keyboard, we need to remove

- the 4 screws & cap that hide the RAM,

- disconnect gently the 5 connectors

- and remove the 2 screws that keep the MB fixed to a smaller side board.

14_removed%20keyboard_zpscgl51wwl.jpg

Remove the 8x screws (see red arrows) that keep the Motherboard without removing the Ethernet sub-board.

Once all the screws are removed you can gently unclips both boards, the MB and the ethernet one, and rotate the MB so it free up itself and can slide out (DP & USB3 connectors can get out of the cover)

15_remove_MB_back_zpsgqepck7u.jpg

What remains ....

18_MB%20removed_zpszihg8gaz.jpg

And NOW we are READY !!!!!

20_ready_zpszv67npgc.jpg

C] remove LVDS & Add eDP support

Those composents are really TINY ! it is not easy to solder.

21_components_zpsoa65n4ai.jpg

In RED are the components that we need to remove :

VR4, VR5, VR6, VR7, VR8, VR9, VR10, VR11, VR12, VR13

VC8, VC9, VC10, VC11, VC12 & VC13.

On below pictures you will see I removed VR16, VR17, VR18, VR22 but those are not necessary looking at the schematic.

Also as explained later, we need to NOT SOLDER ER3, and remove VR14, VR27, R80.

In GREEN are the components that need to be populated / soldered.

  • QTY=1 DIODE LBAV99LT1G SOT-23 {ED1}
  • QTY=11 CAPACITOR 0.1uF X7R 16V 0402 {EC1 to EC11}
  • QTY=8 RESISTOR 0 Ohm 1% 0402 {ER1, ER4, ER7 to ER12}
  • QTY=1 RESISTOR 1K Ohm 1% 0402 {ER2}
  • QTY=2 RESISTOR 100K Ohm 1% 0402 {ER5,ER6}

In YELLOW are components that could need to be totally removed to be clean, but we will keep them in case they do play a role. I have no time to check them and since they are not part of the modular components in the schematic of the service manual , we will keep them.

FRONT SIDE

30_LVDS2EDP_1_zpsjcsqrt3y.jpg

BACK SIDE

31_LVDS2EDP_2_zps5ce9fzd2.jpg

IT IS RECOMMENDED TO TAKE PICTURES IN MACRO MODE AND ZOOM ON A COMPUTER OR USING A SMARTPHONE TO SEE IF ALL THE SOLDERS ARE MADE CORRECTLY.

35_DSC07083_zpso0xshwqr.jpg

============================================================================

At this point, I did put back the laptop together, and ... IT WORKED !!!!!

wonderfull ! but after couple days I started to get some brightness loss, something was wrong with the PWM brightness control.

Using a scope I noticed that this signal was clamped to ground (could not reach 3.3V, was about half way there), something was pulling the signal to ground and the bad guy was the eDP to LVDS converter IC, RTD2136 that I did not removed. I am affrait I create more problem by removing it, I tried to find a powerdown pin but no success and and already too much time involved in this project.

After isolating the problem, I found a solution by removing ER3 & R80, along with VR14 and shorting ER3 directly to R80 with a wire.

============================================================================

36_IMG_20150713_141335_zpsa4l1fyqe.jpg

34_schematic_zpskdxef3y1.png

35_DSC07102_zpsmo1ex7wa.jpg

35_DSC07105_zps38rfbkaj.jpg

VERIFY and VERIFY AGAIN THAT YOUR SOLDERING IS CLEAN.... visual checks very important.

36_DSC07117_zpsfc9ovnyk.jpg

D] PUT BACK TOGETHER

Hopefully you took good notes of putting appart the laptop and you are ready to put it back together.

When putting back the motherboard, first slide with and angle the Display ports /USB3 connectors into the holes then bring the motherboard totaly in and snap in the connectors between Motherboard and ethernet PCB. You can then add the 2 screws to make sure they don't get pressure on the connector. Be GENTLE !

Last when putting all the screw back in the back side, make sure you don't use any hole use by one of the final 14 screw that hold the back cover.

Also remember 2 of the 14 screw are longer, goes in the corners display side.

E] SWAP DISPLAY and CABLE

To remove the black plastic frame around the display, use a credit card to go between the screen and the frame, gently remove the frame which is clipped at several places.

The rest you know how to do...

41_remove_LCD_frame_zpswxnyla1x.jpg

When display is removed.

45_display_removed_zpsdnbesqex.jpg

42_LCD_frame_removed_zpsvjthnuwl.jpg

On right bottom , we are missing a small extension to screw the display, but it's ok, we can manage without it.

43_bottom-right_no_screw_zpsj35uucpj.jpg

Make sure to place the cable in a clean way , that it doesn't get pinched.

46_cable_swap_zpslfbgmml0.jpg

@@@ VICTORY IS SWEET @@@

ENJOY YOUR NEW QFHD 4K 3840x2160 SHARP IGZO DISPLAY !!!!!

:20_003:

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Nice work! I spent hours and hours trying to get the eDP port on the P150EM to work. It powers on, but both the iGPU and dGPU (Yes, the eDP port is the only port on the P150EM connected to the dGPU) refuse to send a signal to the port. The best I could do was just turn the backlight on.

I don't get why it didn't work. I was running a P570WM vBIOS on my 7970m which should support eDP output. Prema modded the system BIOS to flag the eDP port as active. dGPU set as primary in system BIOS. No image on display.

Prema if you have any more ideas on what to try I'd love to hear them. I feel like there's probably just one little thing that was missed that made the dGPU think there wasn't a display connected.

One oddity is I once tried my card in a P150HM and it displayed nothing. I thought this was because my card was damaged at the time and could only run pci-e at x8, and that the P150HM didn't know how to downscale PCI-E links. I since fixed it, but maybe there's something else wrong with my card preventing display output. I tried another 7970m v1.2 in the same P150HM and it worked. In about a month I can try my card in that P150HM again.

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Hi Khenglish, thanks ! I am not familiar with P150EM, and it does take a long time to figure it out... it took me 3 months just to prepare and be sure. execution part is quite fast indeed.

Regarding eDP panel, are you trying to use a eDP panel or use an external DP ? For the embedded-DP (eDP), you need to make sure all the signals are routed. You may have an issue with some hand-check , eDP Transmitter and Receiver might need to agree that all is fine, unlike LVDS where TX will send data no matter what RX.

In the case of P650SG, the 40pins display connector on motherboard side has the following :

Display need the 3.3V and 16V

1,2,3,4 = PLVDD 3.3V 2A

5,6 = 3.3V 1A

38,39,40 = VLED 16V 2A

9,12,15,18,21,24,27,30,37 = GND

eDP data pairs & aux pair (for logic communication between TX& RX)

19,20= D0-/+

22,23= D1-/+

25,26= D2-/+

28,29= D3-/+

31,32= AUXILIARY CHANNEL -/+

Other signals to check :

33= Panel ENABLE (should be 3.3V)

34= Brightness PWM signal (that one comes directly from PCH chipset)

35= INV_BLON ( back light enable ? I see 3.3V logic high and it is the result of AND gates with other power up enable from ram, lid switch, etc..)

36= HPD_L (I have 0V , seems to be active low logic, comes from Hashwell)

So you have it, 4 data pairs, 1 aux pair , 3 power supply {3.3V,3.3V & 16V} and 4 logic nets including the PWM brightness.

Need to check that all of them are ok.

The eDP pairs are highspeed you can't see it unless using a 3Ghz scope with low cap (<3pF) differential probe, which are not easy to get at home because of its high cost.

In P650SG case, the 980m GPU is only used to send 3D graphic to CPU using separate bus, the CPU HUB is the one that provide all the eDP signals for display, DP for DP ports, and even HDMI. They do not come from 980m . Also in my case, even with a black screen, if I connect an external monitor to either DP or HDMI and get image, means that the eDP is ok.

I believe eDP is always on. I had some trouble with black screen , but only to find out that some of the signals shown earlier where not properly routed or clamped to ground.

If your laptop came with LVDS screen , you may be able to convert it to eDP by bypassing the eDP to LVDS conversion and getting all the defined signals to the eDP display.

As long as you can isolate those nets and have access to them on the motherboard.

I am not sure if this helps you, hope it give you more idea to isolate your black screen problem.

BTW, I had black screen also that I though to be not working, but in fact all was ok, only was brightness signal being not correct. So black screen doesn't mean dead.

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The P150EM is different in that there are 2 physical ports. One for eDP and one for LVDS. There is no conversion between the two. They both have their dedicated circuits.

I only got the backlight to work by modding my cable and motherboard for it to always be on.

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How did you get  4K Cable(6-43-P6501-051)?
And I see you have a RMB coin.Are you Chinese?

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Hello

i just read your amazing topic

I have a clevo P651se   with a SAMSUNG LTN156FL02-L01 (uhd)  panel   who has the most ugly yellow and orange in the world :( even the smiley here is ocher ^^

i want to buy a SHARP  LQ156D1JW04 (uhd)  who like the Samsung is edp  ,  do you believe that the replacement will work  ??

Edited by kogoro
because

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I bought a lq156d1jx01 screen    and i needed also a new cable the 6-43-P6501-051-1C   , and  now all work fine , it's so good to be able to see yellow !!:frantics: the smiley is finally yellow!

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Hi All, this is a really nice mod. Very well done and documented. I have a rather stupid question. 

 

I have a Clevo P651RG with a FHD display LP156WF6-SPB1, which is eDP with 2 lane and 30pin. Looking at the P651RG schematics, I can see that it has eDP 40pin. 

Does this mean, Clevo is using a 40pin to 30 pin cable? Can I replace the display with a 4 Lane eDP 40 display?

 

I would like to replace it with an UHD or QFHD display, as I need more screen estate. What screen could I use. The part list is showing some models.

 

 

 

 

 

panel.png

Screens1.png

Screens2.png

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Hi All, this is a really nice mod. Very well done and documented. I have a rather stupid question. 

 

I have a Clevo P651RG with a FHD display LP156WF6-SPB1, which is eDP with 2 lane and 30pin. Looking at the P651RG schematics, I can see that it has eDP 40pin. 

Does this mean, Clevo is using a 40pin to 30 pin cable? Can I replace the display with a 4 Lane eDP 40 display?

 

I would like to replace it with an UHD or QFHD display, as I need more screen estate. What screen could I use. The part list is showing some models.

 

 

 

 

 

panel.thumb.png.7851f3cfa9bb7731bda5a5b79ed415f0.png

Screens1.thumb.png.b1305033edb004471eb6a717cc839b10.png

Screens2.thumb.png.466f0db30de2d2ada30ef554916cc7d4.png


You will just need the eDP cable from the 4K screen as well as the panel.

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Sorry for the noob question, but where did you get the schematics from? I'm looking to put a 1440p or 4K panel in an NP8177 but I can't find the schematics for it to find out if it's eDP-only or eDP/LVDS like in the original post.

 

The model name is Sager NP8177/Clevo P670HS-G, or NP8176/Clevo P670HP6-G should also work cause it's the same laptop but with a GTX 1060 instead of GTX 1070, Sager NP8156/Clevo P650HP6-G is the 15.6" GTX 1060 model and Sager NP8157/Clevo P650HS-G is the 15.6" GTX 1070 model.

 

Clevo P670RS-G seems to be the Intel 6th-gen version of the board, but it still has a GTX 1070. The Sager rebrand of the P670RS-G is the NP8173, and the 15.6" version is P650RS-G or Sager NP8153. GTX 1060 versions are the Sager NP8172/Clevo P670RP6 (17.3") and Sager NP8152/Clevo P650RP6.

 

Hopefully one of those helps. My speciality is phone and computer repair, not laptop schematic hunting :P

Edited by Corom - Computer is killerino

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This thread was definitely informative. I personally own the Sager NP8153 and attempted upgrading the 4K Pentile Display with a 4K Sharp Panel (LQ156D1JW02) that I bought off eBay. I also replaced the display cable with the 6-43-P6501-052-1C purchased from Aliexpress as the stock cable did not fit the Sharp panel (The 051-1C isn't available anywhere). It did work successfully with a couple resolvable caveats. The display itself doesn't seem that great quality (very "grainy", perhaps due to haze) and also suffers from serious backlight bleed at the top which is visible during use and not just on a solid background. I'm considering just buying the LQ156D1JX01/LQ156D1JX01B instead since I generally see it recommended here and elsewhere.

 

The other issue is that the stock display cable is wired through the left hinge of the laptop. It's no issue to connect the new cable to the Motherboard and connect the cable to the display. But the new cable needs to go through the hinge to avoid the laptop looking like Frankenstein. I'm not really sure how to get the cable looped through the hinge (nor how to remove the original cable since it is still looped through the hinge). Any tips?

 

The display, aside from the quality issue with the particular panel, looks great with the frame re-inserted. Brightness control works as expected.

PSX_20191006_142530.jpg

PSX_20191006_142024.jpg

PSX_20191006_141941__01.jpg

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Genuinely interesting and some good work. I must be an exception though, as I bought my Clevo with a 4K display and wish I hadn't.

 

Don't get me wrong - the display itself is superb. Very good quality in contrast, colours, etc. My problem is Windows (even 10) still seems to be terrible at handling high DPI screens.

 

I've even had MS native applications misbehave, such as the RDP client - the mouse would be tiny, the task bar one or two pixels high etc. Log off and back on a couple of times and it would tend to fix itself but not always.

 

VNC player - normal video window, but again one or two pixels high for the controls (play, FF, RW etc).

 

It was so awful, I ended up running at 1080 in the end.

 

I'd be curious to know if anyone else suffered the same issues?

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      I bought the newest version of CPU cooling module for P651SG on taobao, changed it on with the 5583 thermal paste(this thing is so much better than my Arctic Silver 5 or MX4), and the problem is gone. The new fan even sounds less aggressive at 100% fan speed.
      Temp has been very good, stay below 85.
       
      I also bought the custom cooling pipe that connect CPU heatsink to GPU heatsink, it is said to lower CPU temps more since the GPU fan will help a little. I didn't bother putting it on since temp is very much improved already. I bought the CPU cooling module for about 40 USD, and the heatpipe 10 bucks, way lower than the quoted price of around 50 CAD for only the fan + 30 bucks shipping I did a couple weeks ago with eurocom.
       
      BTW some pic after I changed the CPu cooling module, broken case corner, and applied vinyl skin.

    • By demondor
      I want to open up the laptop and clean out the fans and/or change the thermal paste. The cpu (i7 4720hq) temps hit the high 90s when running any kind of games and I am a little concerned. I haven't been able to find any videos or guides to take out the heat sink/fan.
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