Jump to content
Apologies for the spam Read more... ×
EwinRacing Flash Series Gaming Chairs
E1Dor4do

[HARDWARE MOD] W110ER water cooling

Recommended Posts

Hi there!

I have overlooked a lot of laptop cooling mods.

Normally the main problem is limitation of space. But all our Clevo laptops have one BIG advantage over other laptops: we have a lot of free space inside.

For example: my W110ER has 2 size bigger space than it should be for harddrive and huge space between backcover and mainboard. It is not bad especially for airflow. But it is also great for my project.

So my idea is simple as it can be:

1) change hdd/ssd for msata hdd (as in http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/3147-%5Bhardware-mod%5D-w110er-12-1-screen-cooling.html);

2) for all the remaning free space put an water reservoir (cut from plexiglas);

3) change CPU, GPU and PCH radiators to somthing like this one:

post-33977-14494999684495_thumb.jpg

They are small and have input-output on their side, not on the top;

4) somehow connect waterflow to original clevo radiator with fan system (I think of cutting original heattubes and connecting to them)

Waterflow can be one of wollowing 3 tipes:

1) successively: reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - PCH - radiator - reservoir.

PCH must be last one after CPU and GPU becouse it heats more.

2) reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - radiator - reservoir

....................................\ --- PCH --- /

3) reservoir - pump - CPU - radiator - reservoir

..................................|- GPU-|

...................................\- PCH-/

Remaning problems:

1) I haven't found such little pump yet, but I think it is not such problem to find them;

2) Battery life. all-time active pump will eat a lot of battary. I still haven't counted yet, but I think we will get -1 hour battery life.

So, what do you think about this idea. Worth it? Anyone has experience in watercooling?

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ambitious project indeed! looking forward to any progress :)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OMG

I've just found this article ( How Much Water Cooling Systems Can Be Downsized for Notebook PCs? Hitachi Answers - Nikkei Technology Online ) dated back to 2007.

This. Is. Beautiful.

post-33977-14494999684932_thumb.jpg

this is headplate and pump. In one piece. And powerful enough.

Do somebody know where to buy one of this?

If not. I've also found this one ( HP200S Mini Submersible Inline Centrifugal Micro Water Pump 3 to 4 5 VDC 11 GPH | eBay ):

post-33977-14494999685065_thumb.jpg

But this pump costs 150$ one... to expencieve for me.

If somebody is ready to be my sponsor - I will be one of the happiest man on the planet :)

If no... Well, I'm still searching for small good pump for my project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the online hobby stores.

Tower hobbies just to name one. Rc model airplanes and cars use these kind of things all the time. As a matter a fact I'm willing to bet that's a fuel pump for an rc plane in the above picture. If it's not who ever is selling them probably got them from hobbystore to begin with . You should be able to get above pump a lot cheaper than 150 .

Google rc plane onboard electric fuel pump.

just an idea . Can't gurranty anything.[emoji12]

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys, some news from physics to you...

Heat dissipation is done only by radiator by blowing it away with fan. No matter how it is brought to it.

I mean that before and after modding CPU, GPU and PCH will produce the same amount of heat. And the same radiator will dissipate it into air.

The will be no profit at all without modifying radiator to make it dissipate more heat at the same time.

So I am very sad to conclude that this project is useless. No matter how you will bring the heat to radiator: with water or heat tubes. The performance of cooling system won't change.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

by ur argument any water cooling solution would be utterly useless and wouldnt bring any temp advantages to the table, that is just plain wrong though ;)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
by ur argument any water cooking solution would be utterly useless and wouldnt bring any temp advantages to the table, that is just plain wrong though ;)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Nope. Water cooling gives possibility to attach huge radiator and to dissipate heat on it. It is like you attach 240mm radiator directly to CPU.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the heat transfer is mediated by water though, which in itself has a much larger capacity to take on and transfer heat than air. thus, u can transfer and store way more heat in the fluid itself and draw it away from the components until it reaches the radiator. id still expect quite a significant temp improvement even if the radiator in the water cooling has the same heat capacity / transfer capability as in the previous air cooling solution.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the sound of it! Definitely adds some serious capability in a small package.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think if you just use the existing heatpipes that are already present on the gpu and cpu and loop them through a small water pump it would cool better than it does in its current state. Just theory though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think if you just use the existing heatpipes that are already present on the gpu and cpu and loop them through a small water pump it would cool better than it does in its current state. Just theory though.

I am not sure if that time would be enough to cool down water in tubes. I think I must modify somehow waterflow inside radiator to make it stay there a little bit longer.

P.S. does someone know where to buy (better used) radiator + heat pipe from W110ER?

P.S.S. still looking for pump. Fuel pumps from RC models does not provide sufficient waterflow (6 lph vs 600 lph needed) and pressure. Need at least about 100 lph.

P.S.S.S Are there parts for W110ER in this world and on this planet? Except screens, coolers and keyboards I haven't found nothing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think, this project can work fine. I tried some simpler cooling improofments and post the resultes on my homepage: mitjastachowiak.de/?/sonstiges/laptopbau/verbesserungderkuehlung.html (ok, it's in German...). I think, the heatpipes need a lot of space and a real fluid cooling can bring a lot of improofments. For example, one can use the laptop's case for cooling...

I will try to add some passive cooling to my P150EM by building a connection of massive copper and thermal pads between the heatsinks and the lower case. Hope, this will be enough, to cool the laptop with absolutely no fan noise on idle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys, got some really mad idea.

Let's go madness!

post-33977-1449499975596_thumb.jpg

I've told ya, that my notebook has enough space for 2 x 2.5"harddrives. So why not to use some old 2.5" harddrive as reservoir and use it motor as pump? Only need to find some blades for it. Something like this, but with more inner-space (to place motor in there) and thinner

post-33977-14494999756088_thumb.jpg

So I give up searching for small pump and now searching for dead 2.5" harddrive with working motor.

Problems:

1) separate motor from water (don't think it is waterproof)

2) make everything hermetic in case of leaks. For that I am going to use vacuum-machines that they use to save cheese in (Hey, I live in Italy, there are plenty of cheese and this machines here :) )

UPDATE:

I've found this forum thread: http://forums.overclockers.ru/viewtopic.php?t=331512. There are also 3d models for 3d printers to stamp. But they are only for 3.5" harddrives. Don't think it would be very hard to transform them in 2.5".

P.S. original idea, but with 3.5" hardrive:

http://www.casemods.ru/section17/item588/ (yep, russian)

P.S.S. still searching for radiator for W110ER. halp plz!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why not use transformator oil instead of water?

With oil, there will be no problem with electical conductivity and the thermal capacity of some oils is near of the water one's.

But I think, to use a hard drive's motor is a bad idea. This motors are optimized for high rotations and low resistance. With water or oil in the hard drive, the motor will spin very slow and may shortcut the powersuply and the mainboard. You need a real pump or a compressor. And of course a current controller.

There sould be suitable devices in the PC's water cooling assortment.

I'd try to replace the laptop's fans and heatpipes completely with the fluid cooling. You can use the fan's curcuit points to measure the device's temperatures indirectly. Then you need a circuit, that takes it's power directly from the mainboard's power input/battery and transforms the measured (virtual) fan currents into the new pump and fan currents.

I can help you with the current controller circuits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Why not use transformator oil instead of water?

With oil, there will be no problem with electical conductivity and the thermal capacity of some oils is near of the water one's.

But I think, to use a hard drive's motor is a bad idea. This motors are optimized for high rotations and low resistance. With water or oil in the hard drive, the motor will spin very slow and may shortcut the powersuply and the mainboard. You need a real pump or a compressor. And of course a current controller.

There sould be suitable devices in the PC's water cooling assortment.

I'd try to replace the laptop's fans and heatpipes completely with the fluid cooling. You can use the fan's curcuit points to measure the device's temperatures indirectly. Then you need a circuit, that takes it's power directly from the mainboard's power input/battery and transforms the measured (virtual) fan currents into the new pump and fan currents.

I can help you with the current controller circuits.

I've seen the results of HDD pump. They approach 7.5 meters of water level at about 800 litres per hour (donno how to transform it in PSY, but usual aquarium water pump gives about 1 meter at 600 litres). So I don't think pressure will be a problem.

Also they say that HDD motors working for their pump more than 3 years already! Of Course I will secure power supply to motor with some kind of diodes and fuses. Also I will need a driver to make it rotate, because they are step motors.

I don't like the idea of replacing fans. Also you can't simply remove them - you need something to cool down water in system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here I am.

I have received HDD and disassembled it.

I was nearly crying when I was doing this - I hate destroy technics, especially high-precision technics.

So. Good things:

It is seems to be hermetic. There is a rubber isolation on back side of cover. Also it has deep space on the one of the sides. I am going to make inlet and outlet fittings there. Also rotor with engine seems to be hermetic. If not so, at least there are no space between rotor and bottom cover. So water surface tension won't let water to get to engine. I hope so :)

Bad things: I was hoping there will be more space between rotor and top-cover. But there is only approximately 1 mm - 1.5 mm.

Problem is: in centrifugal pump low pressure area is right above rotor and inlet must be in there.

I have spent a little time for drawings. Here's my plan of work:

post-33977-14494999827708_thumb.jpg

post-33977-14494999826534_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys, I am stil here, do not forget about me!

I have ordered CPU/GPU waterblock form aliexpress. It is the only one which is going to fit. It has 8mm thikness.

Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is

As soon as it arrives I am going back to work (aprox in 4-5 days).

Also I am close to finish HDD water pump. I think it will be ready in 4-5 days.

  • Thumbs Up 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As someone who has a full loop in there main PC. Im really curious how this is going to all turn out. Ive never seen someone try something like this in a laptop. Cant wait to see some pics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys!

I have just received waterblocks! WOO-HOO!!!

I will update this post tomorrow with some photos and my working plains.

But I must inform all, who are waiting for result: I am having some overloading in my university and I will not be able to work with project for next 1-2 weeks :(

Be patient!

Stay in touch!

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep up on the Uni work.

Patience we all have for such a brilliant idea

Sent from an AT-AT on Hoth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm unfortunately going to have to go with the previous pessimistic people, and say that you probably won't see too great of an improvement of cooling.

The way heat pipes work inside of your laptop are EXTREMELY efficient.

To quote some numbers from wikipedia...

The effective thermal conductivity varies with heat pipe length, and can approach 100 kW/(m⋅K) for long heat pipes, in comparison with approximately 0.4 kW/(m⋅K) for copper.

While water has a thermal conductivity of 0.58 W/m·K.

Now.... that being said, that doesn't mean you should have to scrap your entire idea.

Water has an extremely high thermal CAPACITY, it just doesn't transfer heat very well in comparison to heat pipes. There's a reason why heat pipes aren't filled with water after all!

What you might want to try to do is to figure out some method to make it so you still use heat pipes, but then have the heat pipe dump it's heat into a water reservoir to hold it.

I don't know how well it would work for long gaming sessions, though and that's what would primarily worry me.

Just my thoughts.

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm unfortunately going to have to go with the previous pessimistic people, and say that you probably won't see too great of an improvement of cooling.

The way heat pipes work inside of your laptop are EXTREMELY efficient.

To quote some numbers from wikipedia...

The effective thermal conductivity varies with heat pipe length, and can approach 100 kW/(m⋅K) for long heat pipes, in comparison with approximately 0.4 kW/(m⋅K) for copper.

While water has a thermal conductivity of 0.58 W/m·K.

Now.... that being said, that doesn't mean you should have to scrap your entire idea.

Water has an extremely high thermal CAPACITY, it just doesn't transfer heat very well in comparison to heat pipes. There's a reason why heat pipes aren't filled with water after all!

What you might want to try to do is to figure out some method to make it so you still use heat pipes, but then have the heat pipe dump it's heat into a water reservoir to hold it.

I don't know how well it would work for long gaming sessions, though and that's what would primarily worry me.

Just my thoughts.

Man, you are just thinking what I am thinking.

Seriously, I was planning to place water blocks between CPU (GPU) and original heatpipes. But I haven't yet done with measurements and I don't know if there will be enough free space. That's why I haven't wrote about this idea at all.

As I've wrote at the very beginning: I want to make as few undone changes as possible. That's why I was just thinking about using original heat tubes with water cooling at the same time.

But I need more time for measurements and testing. And as I've sad before: I am having free time problems for next 2 weeks. I hope I will get back to project ASAP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good news: I have found 5mm PVC tubes suitable for water block fittings (took them from my brother - surgeon)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Henrik9979
      First I want to thank the community, who have inspired me to do this project.
      I will give you guys the chance to follow me on this journey.
       
      I hope you will all help me come up with ideas, techniques and parts that could become handy.
       
      This modding may be possible to convert to allot of laptops.
       
      Let's begin!
      Here is the measurement of the went hole.
      77mm X 16mm

       
      I have 2 ideas for what can be done.
       
    • By Brian
      Titan X's on EVGA hybrid water cooling. They clock to 1500+ MHz and max at 60 C in games. 
    • By E1Dor4do
      Hi!
      I was really impressed by Prema's cooling mod and I've decided to make something with PCH in my XMG A102 (Clevo W110ER with i7 3632QM) because it was getting so much that I couldn't hold a finger on it more than 2-3 sec. (there is no thermal sensor in there, so I couldn't measure it)
      If you are interested only in result please look the second spoiler only. If you are interested in creation process - take a look at the first one also.
      Creating process:



      Result:



      I would like to say many thanks to Prema for his example of using heatpipes.
      Stay in touch! I am going to do some more mods with my new toy in couple of months.
      P.S. If you will be really interested in doing something like this yourself, feel free to ask me for help and assistance.
    • By Jahnsinn
      First of all, let me say I haven't finished yet. I'm still working on it and will update this thread from time to time due to much work at the moment.
      When I fitted my 940xm and the 7970m I got really mad of the heat and the fan noises even in idle mode. So I decided to get it all cooled with a silent, most important quiet, external water cooling system. I checked the internet and found evth I need to get it done. The most difficult thing was to find slim water blocks to cover the dies. I will list all the parts I used with article number and website if you're interested at the end of this post.
      First the overview. These parts are going to be used:

      Actually not much, so let's start.
      I start tubing at the inner hose socket of the reserator. This is the place where the pump is placed behind. You have to use a 10/8mm hose. By this, 10mm means the outside diameter of the hose, 8mm means the inside diameter. This is very important to know by everything you do on water cooling systems due to different fittings, barbs or reducers.
      Fit the hose and tighten it well with a spanner.

      Now you need a reducer to get on a 8/6mm hose. This is necessary to get in fitted to the chiller.

      At the other end you need to fit the 8/6mm hose.
      After this is done the 8/6mm hose leads into the chiller. A chiller pushs down your temps to a predefined value set by you, the minimum you can get theoretically is +3°C. Basically you can say it works like a refrigerator. This is very helpfully when you start gaming or other intense work on the laptop to keep the temps low.
      Here are some pics of it.

      To get the hose fitted the first custom made had to be done. Maybe I didn't know how it actually works, but I had no clue how else to do it without a modification...
      As you can see on the picture, the 1/4" adapter didn't fit to the chiller's nozzle. I really don't know what's the original idea by the developers.

      So the first adjustment had to be made. Cut the end of the nozzle as you can see on the pic.

      When this was done I noticed really pour casting quality inside the nozzle. This would massively reduce your flow speed.

      So I used a drill to get it out.

      Finally I got an outside diameter of 13mm at the nozzle.

      The adapter has 12mm inside diameter

      So just perfect to cut a M14 thread to both parts.

      Unfortunately I couldn't get closer due to the layout of the die.

      two washers solve this problem to get it proper tightened.

      To get it proper sealed I used teflon tape. Just the best way to get something sealed. Don't do it without any sealing!

      Use some Vaseline before you stick in the nozzles.

      Do the same with second side of course. At the end it'll look like that.

      Let's get to the CPU water block. I purchased the Thermaltake CL-W0052 Tide Water, originally made for desktop PCs to cool down the graphics card, on ebay to get all the stuff I'll need to do it. I chose that one because the water block has just a height of 8mm. Also all the hoses and clamps will be helpful.

      First drain the coolant.

      Then I opened the chassis and robbed all hoses and clamps. You'll need them in a couple of minutes. They're all bonded quite well, so just cut them at the ends.

      I also cut and removed the hoses of the water block itself, just to make sure everything is okay. I didn't want to get upset when I filled the system with water. So I cut them and removed the old adhesive.

      I then removed the original cpu heatsink

      and compared the die with the water block

      The water block as it was out from the box was just a touch too small to fit correctly onto the die. So I just removed the tape around the block. Now it was ready to get fitted.
      All I needed to do was loosing the existing bolts on the water block and tightened it with M2.5x20 hex nut bolts into the existing holes. At the end it looks like that.

      By the way, the mosfet heatsinks came with the tide water vga cooler. I also fitted the black hoses as they were, just without the glew and it still seals perfectly.
      To get the hoses guided out of the laptop you need to remove your fan control at the back of your laptop. When you're doing this, be careful not to touch the chassis as I did with whatever you use. I used the dremel and didn't see it for a while. What a shame!

      Nevermind, so let's get over to the gpu side. I bought a very tiny water block with just 15x15x7mm dimensions to not to exceed the height. So may be later I will be able to fit the backplate cover again.

      The water blocks would actually fit on the die, perfectly. But due to the layout of the gpu die the block just fits in diagonal postion. So useless for me.

      To get the water block in the right direction I unsoldered the copper plate of the original heatsink. That one has got the right dimensions to get this solved.

      Clean the copper plate from the old tin on top by using the Dremel or sandpaper.

      At the end that's the way it should work. Just to mention, also the holder came with Thermaltake tide water cooler. The bolts I bought seperatly on ebay. They are M1.6x20 but too long, so I cut them down to 15mm. Now they fit into the existing holes and push down the block properly

      Use now the -->small<-- black hoses robbed from Thermaltake chassis. These are the inside hoses, they're smaller. You need to use some adhesive because the clamps coming with the hoses are just a way too big and don't keep it tight to nozzle.

      Now just add some thermal paste between copper plate and die, and copper plate and water block. Tighten it all down.

      Finally it looks like that.
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]5105[/ATTACH]
      hoses leaded through the fan grill, gpu side. I mention again, just temporarily cause I'm still waiting for parts. in progress...
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]5107[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]5106[/ATTACH]
      cpu side
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]5108[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5109[/ATTACH]
      The hose laying is actually just in common sense. Nothing particular I should mention.
      Reserator -> 10/8mm hose -> 10/8mm to 8/6mm reducer -> 1/4" compression fitting -> 1/4" adapter for chiller -> chiller nozzle -> chiller -> nozzle, adapter, fitting -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter

      first end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> quick coupling -> black hose (termaltake tide water) -> cpu block inlet-> cpu outlet -> black hose -> quick coupling -> 8/6mm -> Y-splitter
      second end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> 6mm barb -> small black hose (thermaltake tide water) -> gpu block inlet -> gpu outlet -> small black hose -> 6mm barb -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter
      |
      Y-splitter -> 8/6mm hose -> 10/8 to 8/6mm reducer -> reserator
      update in progress...















×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.