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    • By Ryae Anthony De Luna
      My Y400 ran into some trouble a while back and still isn't fixed but I won't tell what happened to it here as I will post it on a new thread. Simply put, I had to mod the laptop fan so that it would run at 100% speed no matter what. It made the fan run louder but made my temps considerably lower. This is a post to show you how I did the mod.
      1. Open up the bottom cover of your Y400 or Y500
      2. Locate the cables for the fan.
      3. There should be four cables there. One red, one black, one yellow and one brown.
      4. Cut the brown wire. The brown wire is for the motherboard to control the fan speed. Once you cut it your laptop fan will run as fast as the dust cleaning process lets it in lenovo's energy management tool. This is the fan's normal speed. It was made to run slower by lenovo to make less noise.

      I got the image above from this thread: http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/2773-y500-disassembled-pictures.html
      It shows roughly where the cables should be for the Y400 and Y500.
    • By E1Dor4do
      Hi there!
      I have overlooked a lot of laptop cooling mods.
      Normally the main problem is limitation of space. But all our Clevo laptops have one BIG advantage over other laptops: we have a lot of free space inside.
      For example: my W110ER has 2 size bigger space than it should be for harddrive and huge space between backcover and mainboard. It is not bad especially for airflow. But it is also great for my project.
      So my idea is simple as it can be:
      1) change hdd/ssd for msata hdd (as in http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/3147-%5Bhardware-mod%5D-w110er-12-1-screen-cooling.html);
      2) for all the remaning free space put an water reservoir (cut from plexiglas);
      3) change CPU, GPU and PCH radiators to somthing like this one:

      They are small and have input-output on their side, not on the top;
      4) somehow connect waterflow to original clevo radiator with fan system (I think of cutting original heattubes and connecting to them)
      Waterflow can be one of wollowing 3 tipes:
      1) successively: reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - PCH - radiator - reservoir.
      PCH must be last one after CPU and GPU becouse it heats more.
      2) reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - radiator - reservoir
      ....................................\ --- PCH --- /
      3) reservoir - pump - CPU - radiator - reservoir
      ..................................|- GPU-|
      ...................................\- PCH-/
      Remaning problems:
      1) I haven't found such little pump yet, but I think it is not such problem to find them;
      2) Battery life. all-time active pump will eat a lot of battary. I still haven't counted yet, but I think we will get -1 hour battery life.
      So, what do you think about this idea. Worth it? Anyone has experience in watercooling?
    • By ghoul
      edit: merged with Conscriptvirus's post so it's easier to follow:
      This modification is very dangerous, can lead to broken chips.
      Don't say i didn't warned you...
      edit: he's right, it is easy
      Lenovo did a sloppy job with cooler, too much thermal paste, weak springs, overheating and throttling machines...
      First of all, disassemble the machine.
      Then do a repaste, with bare minimum amount of thermal paste, and remove cooler again, check thermal paste spread.
      Remove screws from cooler, by removing little plastik washers, keeping the screws to fall out.
      My gpu heatsink was not paralllel to motherboard, so the corner without screw was slightly bended upwards.
      Twist the gpu heatsink, so that corner is pushing gap pad a little bit harder. Be very gentle, you dont want to broke your heatsink.
      You can check level by putting your heatsink on flat surface with gpu screws removed, cpu screws stays in place for now.
      Then place a 0,5mm spacer under the spring like seen on the following pictures

      These are screw number 4 and 5.
      Screw number 6 is using a weak spring, so use double spacer, or change it to a stronger spring:

      Put back plastik spacer, so screw stay in place.
      Do the same process with cpu heatsink.
      You can do this to ultrabay as well, but take extra caution, since there is no backplate, and it can lead to warped/broken board.
      Lastly change the gap pad over cpu vrm area, because it is too tick, I used 0,5mm piece:

      Aaand it's done!
      Put back heatsink, use as little amount of thermal paste as possible, and enjoy 10-15+ lower temperatures.
      Spacers was lying around, i had the spring from some old heatsink, so dont have exact types and diameters,
      but Conscriptvirus did the mod also, his mod is better to look at, spacer perfectly fit into heatsink holes
      I also did cpu mod, ended up adding a washer to screw 6, despite of changed spring, gained 1C-3C.
      I can run XTU stress test under 85C with -95mV and 3,4Ghz 4core.
      GPU and CPU idle is under 50, without notebook stand with fans.
      Thanks to Conscriptvirus for his effort and pictures.
      If it worth to be sticky, Mods, please make it one.

    • By Chicaner
      I've jus bought a 5750g second hand (i5 2430M 2.4 GHz & nvidia 540M 2GB) and it's running really hot, i'm getting 95+ temperatures on both the cpu and gpu while gaming, so big thermal throttling framerate drops apply. The thing is that the fan looks almost perfectly clean so i'm discarding that option but given the fact that this laptop only have one heatsink for the cpu the gpu and the chipset and that the fan is not providing enough air flow i want to ask you for some cooling tricks to lower the full load temp to 80 or 85.
      About the fan, it doesn't achieve the same rate under load that the one it gets while booting, just after powering the laptop the fan goes crazy and then drops to it's usual rate and that's not enough.
      At the moment i'm thinking on:
      -replacing the stock thermal compound
      -buying a cooling pad <-not a big fan of this one, i think the system should take care of itself
      -hacking the fan to bypass the pwm control and soldering it directly to a 5v line, jet engine rpm on demand.
    • By Brian
      This cooling mod was originally performed by Ashterfere and is being reproduced here:

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