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m14x R2 BIOS chip swap


Surpher805

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Well, then you may as well desolder both bios and ec eeprom and flash them with A11 using a programmer. Might also send them to me. Easy enough and they'll fit in an envelope, so shipping would cost little.

What was the reason for A11, btw? Presumably Dell killed something or another with the newer versions?

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I think I'll just buy a programmer myself and do the re-flash. Any you'd recommend?

 

A11 because I noticed that the GPU clocks were slower after flashing to A13--Dell throttled the GPU post-A11. Wasn't able to re-flash the normal way because my battery wasn't being detected properly after going to A13, so insydeflash refused to flash.

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A cheap usb thingy usually works fine, but something like this will practically guarantee it's compatible with the specific chip you want to program. Each has its own parameters and the hardware+software needs to be aware of that. Same thing applies to the bios flash programs, such as afudos, insydeflash and the like; they have a tiny database listing various eeproms' properties.


 

Insydeflash's battery check might be overridden by changing the corresponding section of its platform.ini file (or whichever name was used for the .ini):



[AC_Adapter]
Flag=1
BatteryCheck=1
BatteryBound=10
;This flag is the switch of checking AC.
;Flag              default : 1.
;                        0 : Don't check AC.
;                        1 : Check AC.
;BatteryCheck      default : 0.
;                        0 : Don't check battery.
;                        1 : Check battery.
;BatteryBound      default : 20.
;          Integer (1~100) : Low battery boundary (percentage).
;                            When BatteryCheck=1 this value will be referenced.
;                            And only when the battery life percentage is bigger then
;                              inputed value, it can do flash.

 

edit:

Ah, and you want a SOIC8 to DIP8 adapter to go with the programmer. That will save soldering and de-soldering to the SOIC8 pcb that came with the programmer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-SOIC8-SOP8-to-DIP8-EZ-Programmer-Adapter-Socket-Converter-module-150mil-NEW-/262136734274?hash=item3d08912242:g:HS8AAOSwoydWqIvR

 

Edited by H658tu
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  • 2 months later...

H658tu

hi. So after long time, i have been to a repair center and i took both EC and BIOS chip ive showed you in the pics up and i flashed with both files you gave me and the guy resoldered back and press the power button and nothing. still dead :(  what it can be, why is not switching on ? 

 

Please help me, any suggestions ? 

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Check the following:

  1. Verify the eeproms by reading them with programmer, they should match 1:1 with the binaries.
  2. Orientation of the chips?
  3. Measure each pin with a multimeter.
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  • 3 weeks later...

 

On 5/20/2016 at 0:12 PM, H658tu said:

Check the following:

  1. Verify the eeproms by reading them with programmer, they should match 1:1 with the binaries.
  2. Orientation of the chips?
  3. Measure each pin with a multimeter.

 

thank you for beaing here, i think u are my only help. 

what is the eeproms ?  are the bios and ex chips ?  how can i verify the binaries ? 

2. orientation is the same as it was before

3. measure each pin as you told me in the first comments ? 

 

thank you sorry for being a noob..

this is my email: [email protected] 

in case if u have some info please back up a copy here too thank you

i apreciate it

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1. The eeproms are the bios and chip you've de- and re-soldered. The binaries are the files I've uploaded before, these should match the files you get when using the 'read' option of the programmer tool after you've written the binaries to them. A hex editor such as HxD has a 'file compare' option for this.

2. Ok.

3. Yes, by measuring resistance (ohms) between the pad on the mb and the top part of the eeprom's pin that should connect with that pad. All eight have to measure zero ohms (~0.001). Well ... technically not all are in use, but it is better to have them all connected properly.
 

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  • 5 months later...

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