I'm debating whether or not to replace the thermal paste in my Lenovo y510p. I've started overclocking a bit, and I have an external fan, but I would like to not have to run the fan as fast because it is a little loud. I have been reading a bit about different thermal pastes, and I'm wondering if there is even a big difference between stock thermal paste, and something like the liquid metal from thermal grizzly. It sounds like it'd work better, but I don't want to fall for a good marketing scheme. If anyone has experience with this and has or hasn't seen big differences, your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Thermal Paste Complete: Mandatory. Not an Option.
* Don't mind the MX4 LOL that was just left over from something... How about that toothpaste that is rated at 401w/mk...which happens to be the thermal conductivity of copper.
I will be repasting the P775DM3 very soon and will be posting up the results w/ a lot of pictures for your entertainment. My liquid metal paste of choice will be Grizzly Conductonaut, however, I'll be experimenting with other pastes as well to satisfy any curiosity as to if one can get by with just traditional paste. (Highly doubtful, but I am curious about GC.)
Traditional paste wise, I have a feeling that GELid will hold up pretty well.
While I'm at it, I'll also be replacing the thermal pads. Depending on how warped the heat sink is, I have pressure paper handy to be able to test the contacts of the die and IHS against the Heat Sink. If needed, I have copper shims standing by of varies sizes from 0.1mm to 0.3mm+ ...
Below are the conductivity numbers for the top Liquid Metals and Traditional Paste:
(As we know the numbers don't mean everything, however, from all my tests done so far, Grizzly Conductonaut has always topped CLLU by an average of ~3C. Results may vary and it can be the case where it's the other way around. However, the thing here is that with these beasts, every drop in C's count. It could make all the difference.)
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Pro - 32.6 W/mk
Gelid GC Extreme: 8.5 W/mk
Grizzly Kyronaut: 12.5 W/mk
ICD: 4.5 W/mk
Project 775 Journal:
Straight out of the Box:
The temps when running OCCT on the CPU reached 99C on all four cores. Even on F1, the CPU temps all maxed out. Yikes right? As for the GPU, when running Unigine Heaven and Fire Strike the Temps were also in the high 80's and 90's. Repasting is a must IMO. 90C's is not okay and there's no justifying that. I know it's such a shame on Clevo's part for poor QC and lack of engineering (as demonstrated by the crap ADDA fans that are used), but it is what it is. If you want something to just work out of the box without any modding, then a DTR is not for you. Simple as that. Yes, it should work within normal operating temps right out of the box, of course, we would all agree. A DTR is for enthusiasts and those who have the willingness to get under the hood. Some of us thrive on this fact, while others don't, but at the same time this doesn't give Clevo an excuse to go cheap on us.
Project Delid + Liquid Metal Magic: (9/22/16)
The Repaste and Delid are now complete. I've been gathering temp data non stop, along with fine tuning the machine to find where it is the happiest. The temps have been amazing and I'll be posting up a full review shortly. - Stay tuned...
Fine Tuning: (9/25/16)
It's been a blast fine tuning the beast and I think I've got it to near optimal range. The CPU is a winner in the silicon lottery, thank goodness. I'm holding 4.6GHz @ -200mv Core / -200mv Cache and it's very stable with gaming, running benches, video encoding etc...As for the GPU, it's a working progress. After about 100+ runs...yes really of fine tuning and recording data on a spreadsheet, I think I've found the GPU's sweet spot. It's not a massive overclocker chip, but it's good enough to get a great boost out of it. Then again, my expectations are very high so anything sub par is not good enough. I'll be running more benches tonight and hopefully the tuning will pay off to take the #1 spot int he P775DM3 Class for Fire Strike, Unigine Heaven, Cinebench R15, Time Spy, wPrime (already recorded and sitting at #1 in this class) etc... I'll keep you all posted!
Please post your results using the format below in order to keep things uniform and organized:
>>> Before repasting, please run the benches and record your temps for a base. <<<
>>> Please BOLD the answers as show below. <<<
(Click below to Download.)
3. wPrime 2.10
FROM: Hansung Computer Notebooks [한성컴퓨터 노트북] EX76S BOSSMONSTER [775DM3]
GPU: GTX 1080
Display: 4K w/ GSYNC
Thermal Paste: Grizzly Conductonaut
Delidded: Yes. TGC on IHS->die and IHS->HS
Run OCCT for 30 Minutes on Stock Clocks. (Before Repaste)
CPU Max Temp (Stock Fan Profile): 99C
CPU Max Temp (F1 Fan Profile): 99C
CPU Under Volt: -225mv Core / -225mv Cache
Run OCCT for 30 Minutes on Stock Clocks. (After Repaste)
CPU Max Temp (Stock Fan Profile): 67C
CPU Max Temp (F1 Fan Profile): 57C
CPU Under Volt: -225mv Core / -225mv Cache
Run Unigine Heaven -> Fully Maxed @ 1920x1080, Back to Back to Back. (Before Repaste)
First Run GPU Temp: 91C
Second Run GPU Temp: DNF
Third Run GPU Temp: DNF
Run Unigine Heaven -> Fully Maxed @ 1920x1080, Back to Back to Back. (After Repaste)
First Run GPU Temp: 69C
Second Run GPU Temp: 72C
Third Run GPU Temp: 75C
OCCT for 30 Minutes:
Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172)
Temperature Record to Date:
When I discovered about eGPUs I wanted to find the easiest and simplest way to set up one, because I saw that there were many ways to make it and some of them were very complex, and I am not a techie nor a software guy at all. I am very grateful to the people that selfessly shared their findings so I hope to help a bit with this guide. One thousand thanks to Dschjin for his help and patience, to Izzard for solving doubts about opening the Akitio case and to everyone else helping through the forum.
By the way, feel free to contact me or to comment here if you have any doubts. I will try to help, from noob to noob.
rMBP 15” early 2013 with nVIDIA GT 650m
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
DIY cable to power up enclosure and GPU from DA-2 (6&8 pin and DC). Thanks Dschjin again.
Full HD TV with HDMI connection
Thunderbolt cable (Apple original, 2m).
Windows 10 Home Edition, 64-bit
eGPU setup 1.2 from Nando4
OK, my first thought was to buy the Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming because I read that it was the most powerful and with best OC card for the price. Now there’s the Extreme Gaming too that is about a 10% better I think (and more expensive as well). But as a compact solution I wanted to use the DA-2 instead of a regular PSU in order to power the eGPU, and I was told that the DA-2 wouldn’t be able to supply enough power for the Gigabyte graphics card. But it turned out that the MSI Gaming was equally great, silent, cool and, the best of all: compatible with the DA-2. It looks like its max power consumption is 200W at 100% and 220W at 110%, so you can even overclock the card to its maximum (I have read that the DA-2 can supply up to 240W, but in any case 220W is fine).
So I bought the Akitio to the Spanish vendor indicated in their website, called iDATA (although they only serve professionals) for around 200€, and the Dell in Amazon for around 27€ with shipping. I don’t know to solder at all so I tried to buy the DIY cable in Amazon US to the vendor named in the forum, but they only ship to the US. So I asked a friend in the forum and he agreed to make one for me for a very reasonable price.
OK, as you may know you have to open and bend the Akitio case in order to fit this graphics card. But I wanted to try the system before doing it and losing the warranty. I knew that others like w4vz made it work, but that was quite a lot of money to be wasted. BTW I looked for 2nd hand Akitios on the net and didn’t find a single one!
So what I did was to disassemble the circuitry from the Akitio case. It is actually very easy to do, just take out some screws. The only problem I had was with a cable that covered one of them. Then I tried the eGPU with the GTX 970 connected to the Akitio circuitry, without its case.
At this point I have to admit that I had a bad time. I did it late at night and was nervous and tired, and was afraid to break something. If you have to do that, better with time, daylight and being relaxed.
In this sense, it is worth considering buying an ITX card. They are also powerful (maybe some 5-7% less that the best performers but still a bit more than the reference one, and with some margin to OC) so the difference shouldn’t be big, and with the advantage that you can use the Akitio case without having to bend or break anything. Now I wouldn’t change, but maybe at that moment I might have done so. Some cards –you can find the info in the forum- even allow to close the case but then you’ll have to open big holes so the fans can do their job so it’s not the best option for lazy busy guys like me.
In any case, I tried the system. I have done the steps seen at the forum, without doing anything to windows:
- Download nVidia drivers for your GPU
- Start computer, wait some seconds at boot screen
- Plug eGPU, wait some seconds
- Install latest drivers for GPU
This didn’t work for me, getting error code 35. I tried different things like plugging eGPU at different moments of the process, but error 35 was there. Later on, I tried to boot Windows 10 with the eGPU attached, then connected the eGPU, followed the wizard to install drivers and got error 12. Nando4 eGPU setup software was supposed to solve 100% of them so as I didn’t know how to overcome the error and didn’t want to reinstall Windows or to look for complicated procedures, I purchased the software and (luckily) took the risk.
Then I opened the case using Izzard’s tutorial. As I feared that hitting the case might damage the circuitry, I previously disassembled the case taking out the circuit board again. Then opening the case wasn’t difficult, just be careful when you’re bending the case to make it evenly. I skipped the last part –flattening the whole thing-, as this is only for aesthethic purposes and I’m the only one that sees my precioussssss.
Connecting everything does not have any mistery:
- connect the card to the Akitio case (you’ll have to screw it afterwards with one or two of the top screws).
- Plug the DIY cable to the 6 or/and 8 pins of your card and to the DC connection of the Akitio.
- Connect DIY cable to DA-2/PSU.
- Plug DA-2/PSU.
- Connect with Thunderbolt cable the Akitio case and your laptop.
- Connect HDMI cable or other to external monitor and the graphics card.
My only problem was that the DIY cable was a bit tight to arrive to the 6 and 8 pin connectors and the barrel connection at the same time. Besides, because of the design of the card the cables were touching the GTX 970 pipes, which could be a problem in the long term. So I bought some good extension cables in Amazon. Connecting the DA-2 to the DIY cable seems difficult in the beginning because they don’t seem to fit, but I’ve been told to cut 2-3 mm from the DIY cable connector and then force it. After a bit of effort they connect perfectly.
I disconnect and connect everything every time that I use the eGPU, but so far after maybe 20 times it keeps working smoothly.
What worked for me was letting the system detect the new hardware and look for drivers and installing them. Then after rebooting windows I could install eGPU Setup software and play.
OK, then I installed Nando4 eGPU Setup and followed steps in w4vz tutorial. Don’t be scared by them, it’s easy. Just do as follows:
1. Set up the eGPU and switch it on.
2. Boot computer.
3. In booting menu, select Windows.
4. Then you will have to choose between windows and eGPU Setup. Select the latter.
5. Press 2 to select option 2 (remember that in Macs using up and down arrow will hang the system).
6. You will see in the upper right square that two parameters (sorry now I don’t remember) will be as “no”. Select “PCI” -> PCI Compaction -> All Except SATA. After the process they should change to “yes”.
7. Select Pci.bat -> Test pci.bat .
8. Reboot computer
9. Select eGPU Setup
10. Select option 1
11. In the next menu, select Windows
12. Cross your fingers (and toes!) and, hopefully, enjoy! If your eGPU is detected by the system without errors, you will be able to use the external monitor in NVIDIA control software.
I tested the eGPU with 3Dmark and obtained a 8800 score, which is not bad at all. Tried to overclock the card a bit and had around 9700, that is quite great and similar to the about 10.000 gotten by the reviews on the net made with desktop gaming computers. You can see the OC parameters in 3Dmark. Compared with the 1800 that I got with the GT 650m, it is a huge leap in power! I used to play Dragon Age: Inquisition at medium settings and 720p getting around 25 fps, and now I can play at Ultra settings getting an average of 40 fps or more at the game benchmark.
The only software problem I had was that every time that I used the eGPU again I had to follow all the steps from 1 on (doing a PCI compaction and test startup). Besides, when doing step 10 many times eGPU setup got stuck and I had to reboot and start from step 1 several times until it worked. Now I tried to change the process by switching the eGPU on when the booting menu appears on step 3. Then I can select windows and follow from step 10 on. This config seems to work a bit differently (some minor things like MSI gaming app don’t work) but is enough to play games and generally works.
I think that I didn’t forget anything. In any case, if you have any doubt feel free to ask and I will try to answer. Just remember that I am a noob!
Wish you luck with your eGPU projects and much fun playing games at Ultra Settings!
I've seen a few people asking about heat and I thought I would chime in and say a few ways to keep down the heat! There are a few ways you go about this without opening the computer, for those who aren't to sure about taking a screwdriver to their laptop it may help you. In saying that, if your fans are dirty then this will not help you at all.
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY TO ANY DAMAGE HARDWARE! ANY CHANGES YOU MAKE ARE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
INCREASING THE FAN SPEED
to control your fans use this
this is a free program that alot of people use on various computers. it work on alienwares well but im yet to test ROG and MSI with it.
its pretty simple to use
install it and get to this page and click on the sensors button
then on the next screen click the small fan icon at the bottom
unless you want to manually adjust your fan between each time you play click customer auto and you can edit it from there
download and install NV tools it can manage fan speeds too but its not always 100% in laptops
on the left hand side, under the performance tab, select device settings
now just slide it back in small steps until you are comfortable with the temps. remember that if your computer blue screens it DOES NOT mean your computer has been damaged. it is simply a way for the computer to avoid damage.
adjust the slider in intervals of about 15mhz to be safe and click apply each time.
start on the core clock and finish on the memory. Every now and again it is good to check on your progress to see how far you need to go. (more on this later)
MSI after burner is a good one too
again the fan control is a bit hit and miss with it but it can control your clock speed. ass per the program above keep going untill you hit a STABLE setting you want.
here we will look at the new GPU temps after the tune.
MSI Kombustor is a great way to test your heat.
click on stability and watch the temps. if you see any artefacts stop the test and increase the mhz by 15mhz each
fur mark is the one that i use to test the heat of my alienware
aim for about 70-75*C.
hope this helps you a bit.
PS avoid EVGA's tuning tool on alienware i have heard it can brick your LCD!
CLEANING THE FANS
Just for the sake of it ill give you a few tips on cleaning your laptops fans out.
assuming you already know the basics of using a screwdriver to open a laptop ill cover a few things to help you.
REMEMBER, IF YOU REMOVE THE HEATSINK YOU WILL NEED NEW THERMAL PASTE!
compressed air is a great way to remove dust and id recommend having a can of it over a compressor. The reason being is that some compressors can fill with a bit of water and can spray it directly into the computer.
you can spray the air into the vents and while it wont really "clean" it it may open enough room for air to pass out. i DO NOT recomend this however.
after opening up the computer and removing the fan take a paint brush and clean the entire fan, get as much of the dust out as you physically can.
you can use toothbrushes too if you dont have anything else.
make sure you clean the grill behind the fan too as that is where the dust usually builds up.
removing this dust and hair is the most important part of this clean up.
now on to thermal paste.
remove all the old thermal paste from the heat sink and the CPU with a dry cloth then, use isopropyl alcohol to clean the rest.
some people seem to think that more is better but this is completely not true! if you put a large amount of thermal paste on the heatsink you will actuall have hotter temps.
this is due to either:
A ) the heatsink is not geting enough connectivity to the GPU as the layer of thermal paste is too thick
B ) too much of it creates small pockets of air, these air pockets become super hot and that causes more heat on the GPU
the correct amount is roughly the size of a pea
even that is boarderline too much.
Dont spread it around instead place your heat sink over it as even as possible and screw it down in a X pattern for an even spread.
really hope this helps you and good luck!
Continue discussion in original thread here.
I have discovered some users being able to get into non- displayed bios settings on 7720 with 3610 processors, but haven't seen any success with 3630qm.
I am looking for solution to somehow disable optimums functionality in my laptop. Is it big nonsense i am talking about?
To have basically my system functioning fully on nvidia 650m and to be able to use nvidia interloop function for sharing video texture in between applications. I can do it correctly now, but only if using intel4000 chip which totally sux with its "32mb" vram. I feel like it may solve the problem.
Or at least please explain me why it is not possible, or why is it nonsense question if it is