I'm debating whether or not to replace the thermal paste in my Lenovo y510p. I've started overclocking a bit, and I have an external fan, but I would like to not have to run the fan as fast because it is a little loud. I have been reading a bit about different thermal pastes, and I'm wondering if there is even a big difference between stock thermal paste, and something like the liquid metal from thermal grizzly. It sounds like it'd work better, but I don't want to fall for a good marketing scheme. If anyone has experience with this and has or hasn't seen big differences, your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Thermal Paste Complete: Mandatory. Not an Option.
* Don't mind the MX4 LOL that was just left over from something... How about that toothpaste that is rated at 401w/mk...which happens to be the thermal conductivity of copper.
I will be repasting the P775DM3 very soon and will be posting up the results w/ a lot of pictures for your entertainment. My liquid metal paste of choice will be Grizzly Conductonaut, however, I'll be experimenting with other pastes as well to satisfy any curiosity as to if one can get by with just traditional paste. (Highly doubtful, but I am curious about GC.)
Traditional paste wise, I have a feeling that GELid will hold up pretty well.
While I'm at it, I'll also be replacing the thermal pads. Depending on how warped the heat sink is, I have pressure paper handy to be able to test the contacts of the die and IHS against the Heat Sink. If needed, I have copper shims standing by of varies sizes from 0.1mm to 0.3mm+ ...
Below are the conductivity numbers for the top Liquid Metals and Traditional Paste:
(As we know the numbers don't mean everything, however, from all my tests done so far, Grizzly Conductonaut has always topped CLLU by an average of ~3C. Results may vary and it can be the case where it's the other way around. However, the thing here is that with these beasts, every drop in C's count. It could make all the difference.)
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Pro - 32.6 W/mk
Gelid GC Extreme: 8.5 W/mk
Grizzly Kyronaut: 12.5 W/mk
ICD: 4.5 W/mk
Project 775 Journal:
Straight out of the Box:
The temps when running OCCT on the CPU reached 99C on all four cores. Even on F1, the CPU temps all maxed out. Yikes right? As for the GPU, when running Unigine Heaven and Fire Strike the Temps were also in the high 80's and 90's. Repasting is a must IMO. 90C's is not okay and there's no justifying that. I know it's such a shame on Clevo's part for poor QC and lack of engineering (as demonstrated by the crap ADDA fans that are used), but it is what it is. If you want something to just work out of the box without any modding, then a DTR is not for you. Simple as that. Yes, it should work within normal operating temps right out of the box, of course, we would all agree. A DTR is for enthusiasts and those who have the willingness to get under the hood. Some of us thrive on this fact, while others don't, but at the same time this doesn't give Clevo an excuse to go cheap on us.
Project Delid + Liquid Metal Magic: (9/22/16)
The Repaste and Delid are now complete. I've been gathering temp data non stop, along with fine tuning the machine to find where it is the happiest. The temps have been amazing and I'll be posting up a full review shortly. - Stay tuned...
Fine Tuning: (9/25/16)
It's been a blast fine tuning the beast and I think I've got it to near optimal range. The CPU is a winner in the silicon lottery, thank goodness. I'm holding 4.6GHz @ -200mv Core / -200mv Cache and it's very stable with gaming, running benches, video encoding etc...As for the GPU, it's a working progress. After about 100+ runs...yes really of fine tuning and recording data on a spreadsheet, I think I've found the GPU's sweet spot. It's not a massive overclocker chip, but it's good enough to get a great boost out of it. Then again, my expectations are very high so anything sub par is not good enough. I'll be running more benches tonight and hopefully the tuning will pay off to take the #1 spot int he P775DM3 Class for Fire Strike, Unigine Heaven, Cinebench R15, Time Spy, wPrime (already recorded and sitting at #1 in this class) etc... I'll keep you all posted!
Please post your results using the format below in order to keep things uniform and organized:
>>> Before repasting, please run the benches and record your temps for a base. <<<
>>> Please BOLD the answers as show below. <<<
(Click below to Download.)
3. wPrime 2.10
FROM: Hansung Computer Notebooks [한성컴퓨터 노트북] EX76S BOSSMONSTER [775DM3]
GPU: GTX 1080
Display: 4K w/ GSYNC
Thermal Paste: Grizzly Conductonaut
Delidded: Yes. TGC on IHS->die and IHS->HS
Run OCCT for 30 Minutes on Stock Clocks. (Before Repaste)
CPU Max Temp (Stock Fan Profile): 99C
CPU Max Temp (F1 Fan Profile): 99C
CPU Under Volt: -225mv Core / -225mv Cache
Run OCCT for 30 Minutes on Stock Clocks. (After Repaste)
CPU Max Temp (Stock Fan Profile): 67C
CPU Max Temp (F1 Fan Profile): 57C
CPU Under Volt: -225mv Core / -225mv Cache
Run Unigine Heaven -> Fully Maxed @ 1920x1080, Back to Back to Back. (Before Repaste)
First Run GPU Temp: 91C
Second Run GPU Temp: DNF
Third Run GPU Temp: DNF
Run Unigine Heaven -> Fully Maxed @ 1920x1080, Back to Back to Back. (After Repaste)
First Run GPU Temp: 69C
Second Run GPU Temp: 72C
Third Run GPU Temp: 75C
OCCT for 30 Minutes:
Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172)
Temperature Record to Date:
I've seen a few people asking about heat and I thought I would chime in and say a few ways to keep down the heat! There are a few ways you go about this without opening the computer, for those who aren't to sure about taking a screwdriver to their laptop it may help you. In saying that, if your fans are dirty then this will not help you at all.
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY TO ANY DAMAGE HARDWARE! ANY CHANGES YOU MAKE ARE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
INCREASING THE FAN SPEED
to control your fans use this
this is a free program that alot of people use on various computers. it work on alienwares well but im yet to test ROG and MSI with it.
its pretty simple to use
install it and get to this page and click on the sensors button
then on the next screen click the small fan icon at the bottom
unless you want to manually adjust your fan between each time you play click customer auto and you can edit it from there
download and install NV tools it can manage fan speeds too but its not always 100% in laptops
on the left hand side, under the performance tab, select device settings
now just slide it back in small steps until you are comfortable with the temps. remember that if your computer blue screens it DOES NOT mean your computer has been damaged. it is simply a way for the computer to avoid damage.
adjust the slider in intervals of about 15mhz to be safe and click apply each time.
start on the core clock and finish on the memory. Every now and again it is good to check on your progress to see how far you need to go. (more on this later)
MSI after burner is a good one too
again the fan control is a bit hit and miss with it but it can control your clock speed. ass per the program above keep going untill you hit a STABLE setting you want.
here we will look at the new GPU temps after the tune.
MSI Kombustor is a great way to test your heat.
click on stability and watch the temps. if you see any artefacts stop the test and increase the mhz by 15mhz each
fur mark is the one that i use to test the heat of my alienware
aim for about 70-75*C.
hope this helps you a bit.
PS avoid EVGA's tuning tool on alienware i have heard it can brick your LCD!
CLEANING THE FANS
Just for the sake of it ill give you a few tips on cleaning your laptops fans out.
assuming you already know the basics of using a screwdriver to open a laptop ill cover a few things to help you.
REMEMBER, IF YOU REMOVE THE HEATSINK YOU WILL NEED NEW THERMAL PASTE!
compressed air is a great way to remove dust and id recommend having a can of it over a compressor. The reason being is that some compressors can fill with a bit of water and can spray it directly into the computer.
you can spray the air into the vents and while it wont really "clean" it it may open enough room for air to pass out. i DO NOT recomend this however.
after opening up the computer and removing the fan take a paint brush and clean the entire fan, get as much of the dust out as you physically can.
you can use toothbrushes too if you dont have anything else.
make sure you clean the grill behind the fan too as that is where the dust usually builds up.
removing this dust and hair is the most important part of this clean up.
now on to thermal paste.
remove all the old thermal paste from the heat sink and the CPU with a dry cloth then, use isopropyl alcohol to clean the rest.
some people seem to think that more is better but this is completely not true! if you put a large amount of thermal paste on the heatsink you will actuall have hotter temps.
this is due to either:
A ) the heatsink is not geting enough connectivity to the GPU as the layer of thermal paste is too thick
B ) too much of it creates small pockets of air, these air pockets become super hot and that causes more heat on the GPU
the correct amount is roughly the size of a pea
even that is boarderline too much.
Dont spread it around instead place your heat sink over it as even as possible and screw it down in a X pattern for an even spread.
really hope this helps you and good luck!
Continue discussion in original thread here.
hi all thats my first post here and iam very happy cause this site has hold out so much good information about my dell laptop that i didnt know... i have a dell inspiron 7720 with a gt 650m and i try to do the best i can to keep my gpu cool cause some times it reaches 93 c ... so i was wondering if it worth the time and the work to put thermal paste at the gpu ? has any1 from you do this work befor ? it has considerable effect at the temperatures or there is no need to try it ? also i must say that i have an arctic cooling mx-4 paste but i had buy it 10 years ago is there any problem with this ?
• Why should I repaste my Notebook?
I think that picture says more than any words can say.
There is to much thermal paste on the thermal surfaces.
To get the best temperatures as possible, you need a good-pasted system.
• What do I need?
- a bit ''sleight of hand''
- something to remove the thermal paste (I used ''ArctiClean 1 & 2'', for thermal material removing and thermal surface purifing, alcohol should also work)
- a lint-free cloth
- a good thermal paste (IC Diamond or Arctic MX-4, i used the one from Arctic)
- good thermal pads (with at least 6 W/mK thermal conductivity is nice)
• How to do
You have to remove the following hardware of the Y580 for repasting:
• Battery pack
• Hard disk drive(HDD)
• Optical drive
• Keyboard bezel
• System board
... You have to remove these screws:
Be really careful with removing the keyboard. Do it very slowly and smooth and nothing will broke
This is how the Y580 looks like without the keyboard:
The same applies to the keyboard bezel. Remove it slowly and smooth, be careful
The Y580 after removing the keyboard bezel:
Remove the two screws and you can take out the motherboard
This is the motherboard with the fan and the two heatsinks for the CPU and the GPU
• The repasting
- remove all thermal pads
- remove the thermal paste
- clean all components until they ''shine'' like that:
- after the cleaning replace at first the thermal pads at the back of the GPU (backside of the motherboard) like me:
- take the new thermal paste and reapply the paste to the core of the 660m and to the CPU
- place the thermal pads to the parts that I marked, there were the pads placed from factory:
• The result
For the testing i modified the vBIOS of the 660m. I rised the core-clock to 1,2 GHz and the memory-clock to 2800 MHz. I also modified the voltage. No overvolt, but i modified it that the voltage stays always at 1,1 V.
The GTX 660m stays steady at the 1,1 V and it's maximum clocks of about 1200/2800 MHz.
And for the CPU (i7-3630QM) i always use ''ThrottleStop 5.00'' to get the maximum performance and steady 3,2 GHz on all cores.
-> My system is throttle-free thats why it can become really hot
• The temperature of the 660m goes now to a maximum of 70 degrees celcius.
Before the repasting the absolute maximum temperature for the gpu was 87°C high. (with my overclock)
• The temperature of the processor, the i7-3630QM, maxes out at 78°C.
Before the repasting the 3630QM maxed out at 98°C with throttlestop set at 32 multiplier, 100% clock modulation, 100% chipset clock mod and BD PROCHOT turned off.
All in all, the time you have to spend on reapplying the thermal paste is definitely worth it.
Lower temperatures means more stable overclocks for technique-enthusiast's or higher life-time of the laptop for the ''normal'' PC-user.