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Mr. Fox

[Tutorial] Dual 330W AC Adapter Mod

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Hi mirekti,

 

I have a Alienware M18X-R2 with 2 GTX 980m cards and a 3940xm chip and if I was going to overclock these I was going to have power issues, so I was looking into the same thing and came across this post from Mr. Fox, not cheap but looks really nice.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/introducing-the-eurocom-780w-notebook-ac-adapter-clevo-msi-ready.801145/

 

 

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2 minutes ago, The Mad Jedi said:

Hi mirekti,

 

I have a Alienware M18X-R2 with 2 GTX 980m cards and a 3940xm chip and if I was going to overclock these I was going to have power issues, so I was looking into the same thing and came across this post from Mr. Fox, not cheap but looks really nice.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/introducing-the-eurocom-780w-notebook-ac-adapter-clevo-msi-ready.801145/

 

 

 

Thanks for this, but I am actually looking for something with no fans i.e. passive. 
In the meantime I was able to find this: https://www.originpc.com/gearshop/categories/Power Accessories/products/3010#features but the problem is my PC case has a regular Dell socket and this one has 4 pins. 
Ideally, it would be great if I found a converter which accepts Dell 330W so I only need to buy a converter and another brick. 
...or if there is an cable extender which would change this 4 pin cable to Dell one.

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Awesome mod Mr. Fox!

 

I know this thread is dated now, but for others who are curious, a very easy and straight forward mod. Most importantly, relatively CHEAP.

 

I have a M15x (owned new since 2010) and after having a 970m for a year, I upgraded to a 980m, the 10-15% gain was enough of an itch for me. The only problem was the 980m would trip my 240 psu constantly with any attempt to OC (svl7/johnksss vbios). So I purchased another 240 psu and made the mod - now no more tripping!

 

For those with a AW M15x, a dual 240w psu mod is plenty and even easier to construct than the 330w mod, as the 240 psu's have only 1 black, 1 white, 1 green/blue wire..I didn't even have to solder anything!

 

Now my laptop has more than enough power :devil:

Edited by discovision

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This post has been rather helpful. Thise who made the upgrade to dual 980m will need this.

 

I finalize my dual psu. My design has only two 30amp diodes and modular design to connect one or two PSUs. I can add simply a third PSU anytime! I did use initialy a rectifier bridge, but the forward voltage was high, so the output voltage was too low (18,2 volts) so the laptop under full load, it tripped.

 

My design also has a display and a shunt. It shows me output voltage, output amperage, total wattage and watts per hour.

 

I can tell you that my 3720qm and the dual 989m with the dell vbios can pull 560watts during firestrike.

 

I couldn't image what will happend when I have a 3920xm overclocked and premas vbios on the GPUs! My guess will be at 630+ watts.

 

Everything is soldered inside and insulated. No heat is produced, but I put it in an alouminum box anyway.

IMG_20171108_044830.jpg

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Good evening to everyone. First of all I would like to thank Mr.Fox, who as always is a great help in all the various communities, for the realization of the mod.
Then I would like to submit my situation.
I proceeded to upgrade my M18x R2, with 2x980m 8gb, following step by step what is described in this forum (bios mod legacy support, vbios mod by prema etc.).
Fortunately I did not have driver problems (I use those of nvidia) nor with W10 nor I had the need to use the trick of suspension.
Unfortunately, despite having made the mod of the Dual PSU, I continue to have problems with the frame rate (which I think are motivated by the power, since GPU-Shark tells me "power limit reached").
Can anyone tell me if this is really my problem?
Or can it be due to something else?
Is there a solution?
Thank you all.

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11 hours ago, ziobeppe said:

Good evening to everyone. First of all I would like to thank Mr.Fox, who as always is a great help in all the various communities, for the realization of the mod.
Then I would like to submit my situation.
I proceeded to upgrade my M18x R2, with 2x980m 8gb, following step by step what is described in this forum (bios mod legacy support, vbios mod by prema etc.).
Fortunately I did not have driver problems (I use those of nvidia) nor with W10 nor I had the need to use the trick of suspension.
Unfortunately, despite having made the mod of the Dual PSU, I continue to have problems with the frame rate (which I think are motivated by the power, since GPU-Shark tells me "power limit reached").
Can anyone tell me if this is really my problem?
Or can it be due to something else?
Is there a solution?
Thank you all.

Just a thought but have you looking into the articles on here about gpu throttling. I just made a gpu upgrade to my old m18x r1 and while I know the system can handle the game requirements, after anywhere from instantly to a few mins I can watch my framerate drop and in msi I can watch as the card throttles down and runs at half of what it should.  this article explains what I'm getting at http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/alienware-m18x-r2-with-980m-possible-throttling-fix.791358/ . I am by no means an authority on such but maybe i'm just seeing my problem in yours. =P

Also just wanted to say that this thread makes me want to throw another 780m in my old girl. Unfortunately a lack of funds is currently a problem.

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On 29/1/2018 at 7:02 AM, Tristan0123 said:

Just a thought but have you looking into the articles on here about gpu throttling. I just made a gpu upgrade to my old m18x r1 and while I know the system can handle the game requirements, after anywhere from instantly to a few mins I can watch my framerate drop and in msi I can watch as the card throttles down and runs at half of what it should.  this article explains what I'm getting at http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/alienware-m18x-r2-with-980m-possible-throttling-fix.791358/ . I am by no means an authority on such but maybe i'm just seeing my problem in yours. =P

Also just wanted to say that this thread makes me want to throw another 780m in my old girl. Unfortunately a lack of funds is currently a problem.

 

Thank you for your intervention and for the indications you gave me.
Unfortunately I tried what is described in the link but it did not work in my case.
I always get a low frame rate.
Honestly I do not know what to try.

 

 

bench 1.PNG

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If anyone is still reading this thread. I have made a dual PSU mod.

But I having trouble to get it to work.

I have 3x 330w PSU. The first one always had an issue with switching off under heavy load, the second one works like a champ and the third I bought from eBay for this mod.

 

When using the good PSU and the one from eBay together I could barely pull 330w. The wattmeter showed around 270w on the good PSU and around 60w from the one from eBay.

Also I tried connecting them together directly bypassing the rectifier, same problem.

When I ran benchmarks I would see my CPU jumping from 4.4 ghz to 798 MHz and back to 4.4 ghz

I have gtx 980m SLI and when using throttlestop the CPU locks at 4.4 ghz but then the 980m starts to power throttle.

 

Sometimes I managed to force both to stop throttling but then the system would pull 360w and shut down instantly.

 

I noticed the one from eBay had the model number: Y90RR

Also only having 1 white and 1 black cable inside.

 

The good PSU have model number: XM3C3

And having 2 white cables and 2 black cables.

 

So that might be the issue.

 

The sick PSU is also a XM3C3

 

I tried with "sick" PSU and the good PSU. I is making a difference. Now I can pull 380w max without it shutting down.

But still the good PSU pulls more power than the order PSU.

 

The issue is still power throttle!

I can't figure out if it is the PSU, the mod or the Alienware that is the issue. I suspect the Alienware for not letting it self pull more power.

It is water cooled so the temps are no issue. Can somebody please help I am getting desperate!

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First of all, what model do you have? If you have the R2 have you installed the A11 unlocked bios, to help you switch between iGPU and dedicated GPU to elimate throttling? Process is in a link posted above. 

Lastly, do you use a bridge rectifier or high amp diodes? I used bridge rectifiers initially and the voltage reaching my laptop was around 18,3volts so under heavy load, the system shut down. 

I used two high amp diodes (20A) for the positive voltage cables (white in my occasion). Negative cables were soldered together (black ones). Also the psu signal ones (blue ones). 

 

Don't use anything else than solder. High amps don't like twisting or any other loose connection. 

 

I also have the original one and one I got from ebay. I haven't overclocked my CPU since it is a simple 3720qm. 

 

I placed my display AFTER the connections, so I have readings for the voltage getting to the laptop, Amperage and wattage. 

 

With the diodes, voltage drops to 19volts under heavy load, Amperage is around 34amps and wattage never exceeds 600watts.

 

I am hoping to get a 3920xm someday and max out everything to see what the maximum power draw can be. 

I hope I helped you. 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, jerryzago said:

First of all, what model do you have? If you have the R2 have you installed the A11 unlocked bios, to help you switch between iGPU and dedicated GPU to elimate throttling? Process is in a link posted above. 

Lastly, do you use a bridge rectifier or high amp diodes? I used bridge rectifiers initially and the voltage reaching my laptop was around 18,3volts so under heavy load, the system shut down. 

I used two high amp diodes (20A) for the positive voltage cables (white in my occasion). Negative cables were soldered together (black ones). Also the psu signal ones (blue ones). 

 

Don't use anything else than solder. High amps don't like twisting or any other loose connection. 

 

I also have the original one and one I got from ebay. I haven't overclocked my CPU since it is a simple 3720qm. 

 

I placed my display AFTER the connections, so I have readings for the voltage getting to the laptop, Amperage and wattage. 

 

With the diodes, voltage drops to 19volts under heavy load, Amperage is around 34amps and wattage never exceeds 600watts.

 

I am hoping to get a 3920xm someday and max out everything to see what the maximum power draw can be. 

I hope I helped you. 

Thanks for answering, I found the solution!!!

 

First I will describe my setup and then what I did to make it work.

Alienware m18x R2

Windows 10 pro 64bit

Swicks A11 unlocked bios

Gtx 980m SLI

I7 2960xm 2.9 ghz

16gb 1600 MHz ram

 

It is water cooled, look at my thread here: 

 

 

In my dual power adapter I used this bridge rectifier with 40A  and 60volt https://www.mouser.dk/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/MBR4060PT?qs=3csLVnQQLU29uwhOO580Zw==

 

Everything is soldered and the output shows 19,5 volt.

IMG_20180616_043238.thumb.jpg.f5c5ca323fcb4fceedab8ed30b503f78.jpg

 

First I tried to reinstall windows 10 because I also had problems with my Oculus Rift CV1 loosing too many samples. They had worked flawlessly from the first day I got them until 3 months ago. Also I lost the usb 3.0 functionality in an attempt to fix it, and was stuck at usb 2.0.

 

I was hoping a reinstall would help, also now when I knew how to use throttlestop my CPU would stop throttling to 800 MHz. Oculus rift don't work in SLI but a heavy overclocked gtx 980m can handle it very well. 

 

But a reinstall of windows fixed nothing but my usb 3.0 worked again. The maximum power draw was still at 330w - 360w

 

I got frustrated, formatted the computer again and install a fresh windows 7 64 bit with absolutely no preinstalled drivers.

I installed all the original drivers from dell and the newest from Nvidia.

I ran valley benchmark and accidentally looked at the watt meter which was now showing 565 watt!!! And when activating throttle stop it raised to 630 watt. I also overclock both my gtx 980m

75+ voltage,

271+ core clock

500+ memory clock

 

I should mention my CPU runs at 4.4 ghz but I can get a stable overclock at 4.9 ghz.

 

But 4.4 ghz and 2 heavy overclocked gtx 980m can draw 760watt.

 

But what I suspect to be the whole issue is the chipset driver!

Why?

Because I had windows 10 on one partition and windows 7 on another partition for music making. Both would never draw more the 360w.

 

Also using the PEG IGFX PEG trick would work until I opened throttle stop and unchecked BD Prochot. When I did that the CPU locked at 4.4 ghz but the GPU started power throttling!.

 

So I did not suspected the Nvidia drivers, it was also not the vbios. Also I tried disabling BD Prochot in bios, it did nothing.

 

So I started suspecting 3 things, it could be a faulty motherboard reading wrong temperature, it could be a faulty CPU or it could be the chipset driver.

 

I am happy I got the power mod to work, now the time will show if my Oculus is working normal again too.

 

P.S. you can build it without a bridge rectifier. I have tested it. But what happens is when you turn on one power supply, the light on the other power supply will also turn on, meaning to are sending power into the other power supply as well. Also I think it felt like the hole on the back of the computer become very hot.

I only tested it for a day or two and it worked. But in the long run I don't know if it is a good idea.

IMG_20180616_051511.thumb.jpg.13e22e92b98cef36a8073dd1f938a952.jpgIMG_20180616_051355.thumb.jpg.4c362cf0167a2a249d7df46726c750ad.jpgIMG_20180616_051350.thumb.jpg.6077d1b43e8267a95606b05654d065a1.jpg

Edited by Henrik9979

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18 hours ago, Henrik9979 said:

Thanks for answering, I found the solution!!!

 

First I will describe my setup and then what I did to make it work.

Alienware m18x R2

Windows 10 pro 64bit

Swicks A11 unlocked bios

Gtx 980m SLI

I7 2960xm 2.9 ghz

16gb 1600 MHz ram

 

It is water cooled, look at my thread here: 

 

 

In my dual power adapter I used this bridge rectifier with 40A  and 60volt https://www.mouser.dk/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/MBR4060PT?qs=3csLVnQQLU29uwhOO580Zw==

 

Everything is soldered and the output shows 19,5 volt.

IMG_20180616_043238.thumb.jpg.f5c5ca323fcb4fceedab8ed30b503f78.jpg

 

First I tried to reinstall windows 10 because I also had problems with my Oculus Rift CV1 loosing too many samples. They had worked flawlessly from the first day I got them until 3 months ago. Also I lost the usb 3.0 functionality in an attempt to fix it, and was stuck at usb 2.0.

 

I was hoping a reinstall would help, also now when I knew how to use throttlestop my CPU would stop throttling to 800 MHz. Oculus rift don't work in SLI but a heavy overclocked gtx 980m can handle it very well. 

 

But a reinstall of windows fixed nothing but my usb 3.0 worked again. The maximum power draw was still at 330w - 360w

 

I got frustrated, formatted the computer again and install a fresh windows 7 64 bit with absolutely no preinstalled drivers.

I installed all the original drivers from dell and the newest from Nvidia.

I ran valley benchmark and accidentally looked at the watt meter which was now showing 565 watt!!! And when activating throttle stop it raised to 630 watt. I also overclock both my gtx 980m

75+ voltage,

271+ core clock

500+ memory clock

 

I should mention my CPU runs at 4.4 ghz but I can get a stable overclock at 4.9 ghz.

 

But 4.4 ghz and 2 heavy overclocked gtx 980m can draw 760watt.

 

But what I suspect to be the whole issue is the chipset driver!

Why?

Because I had windows 10 on one partition and windows 7 on another partition for music making. Both would never draw more the 360w.

 

Also using the PEG IGFX PEG trick would work until I opened throttle stop and unchecked BD Prochot. When I did that the CPU locked at 4.4 ghz but the GPU started power throttling!.

 

So I did not suspected the Nvidia drivers, it was also not the vbios. Also I tried disabling BD Prochot in bios, it did nothing.

 

So I started suspecting 3 things, it could be a faulty motherboard reading wrong temperature, it could be a faulty CPU or it could be the chipset driver.

 

I am happy I got the power mod to work, now the time will show if my Oculus is working normal again too.

 

P.S. you can build it without a bridge rectifier. I have tested it. But what happens is when you turn on one power supply, the light on the other power supply will also turn on, meaning to are sending power into the other power supply as well. Also I think it felt like the hole on the back of the computer become very hot.

I only tested it for a day or two and it worked. But in the long run I don't know if it is a good idea.

IMG_20180616_051511.thumb.jpg.13e22e92b98cef36a8073dd1f938a952.jpgIMG_20180616_051355.thumb.jpg.4c362cf0167a2a249d7df46726c750ad.jpgIMG_20180616_051350.thumb.jpg.6077d1b43e8267a95606b05654d065a1.jpg

Okay here's an update, it stopped working again. And I haven't been able to make it work again.

I know I installed service pack 1 and some other updates and after that it stopped working.

I already tried reinstalling windows 7 3 times in one day now, trying installing the drivers in different orders but nothing will make it go above 330w.

I am so close to just give up now and just sell it and buy a clevo.

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On 17/6/2018 at 12:12 AM, Henrik9979 said:

Okay here's an update, it stopped working again. And I haven't been able to make it work again.

I know I installed service pack 1 and some other updates and after that it stopped working.

I already tried reinstalling windows 7 3 times in one day now, trying installing the drivers in different orders but nothing will make it go above 330w.

I am so close to just give up now and just sell it and buy a clevo.

Okay now I am getting confused!

I booted up my pc again this morning. I installed Google Chrome and .net framework 4.5 and just for they fun I tested the system again expecting it only to pull 330w and power throttle. But to my surprise it worked again???

The order I have installed everything this time is:

1. Windows 7 ultimate 64bit

2. Windows 6.1-KB976932-X64 (service pack 1 offline install)

1. Intel HM77 chipset 2013

2. Intel management engine interface 2013

3. Intel USB 3.0 extensible host controller 2013

4. Killer wireless-N 1103 2013

5. Microsoft visual c++ 2010 x86

6. Microsoft visual c++ 2013 x86

7. Unigine Valley 1.0

8. MSI afterburner 430

9. Restart

10. Google Chrome

11. .net framework 4.5 full setup

 

Now I will not touch anything and create a restore point. Wondering if it was .net framework 4.5 that was missing???

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Nice setup there! My only concern is that blue and white are your positive current and brown is your negative current? I would suggest adding one more cable to each connector to your negative side, just in case. 

Two wires for positive current, two wires for negative current. After all, 20amps are quite a lot. 

 

I see you use a scotky diode. Measure output voltage (the one going to your laptop) when you stress your laptop. Measuring while only having the psu connected, isn't accurate. 

 

You mention seeing both lights from the PSUs come up? If both of them are connected to your mains, then it is OK. If you have connected one to your mains, and the other one is not, and it's light is on, the your rectifier is busted. 

 

Lastly, connect one PSU, put some load to your laptop (ex, YouTube video on FHD or 4K) and measure if the other side your rectifier has voltage. 

 

My thoughts for not working properly, are directed to your bridge. Perhaps a higher voltage/Amperage might help. I told you I used simple 20amp diodes used in photovoltaic systems. Positive cables have the diodes and then they are connected.

 

I will try to post some photos if I have the time. 

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On 18/6/2018 at 11:23 AM, jerryzago said:

Nice setup there! My only concern is that blue and white are your positive current and brown is your negative current? I would suggest adding one more cable to each connector to your negative side, just in case. 

Two wires for positive current, two wires for negative current. After all, 20amps are quite a lot. 

 

I see you use a scotky diode. Measure output voltage (the one going to your laptop) when you stress your laptop. Measuring while only having the psu connected, isn't accurate. 

 

You mention seeing both lights from the PSUs come up? If both of them are connected to your mains, then it is OK. If you have connected one to your mains, and the other one is not, and it's light is on, the your rectifier is busted. 

 

Lastly, connect one PSU, put some load to your laptop (ex, YouTube video on FHD or 4K) and measure if the other side your rectifier has voltage. 

 

My thoughts for not working properly, are directed to your bridge. Perhaps a higher voltage/Amperage might help. I told you I used simple 20amp diodes used in photovoltaic systems. Positive cables have the diodes and then they are connected.

 

I will try to post some photos if I have the time. 

Okay just for the curiosity, I soldered a third PSU directly to the output of the rectifier.

A ran some benchmark

On 18/6/2018 at 11:23 AM, jerryzago said:

Nice setup there! My only concern is that blue and white are your positive current and brown is your negative current? I would suggest adding one more cable to each connector to your negative side, just in case. 

Two wires for positive current, two wires for negative current. After all, 20amps are quite a lot. 

 

I see you use a scotky diode. Measure output voltage (the one going to your laptop) when you stress your laptop. Measuring while only having the psu connected, isn't accurate. 

 

You mention seeing both lights from the PSUs come up? If both of them are connected to your mains, then it is OK. If you have connected one to your mains, and the other one is not, and it's light is on, the your rectifier is busted. 

 

Lastly, connect one PSU, put some load to your laptop (ex, YouTube video on FHD or 4K) and measure if the other side your rectifier has voltage. 

 

My thoughts for not working properly, are directed to your bridge. Perhaps a higher voltage/Amperage might help. I told you I used simple 20amp diodes used in photovoltaic systems. Positive cables have the diodes and then they are connected.

 

I will try to post some photos if I have the time. 

That will be nice with some photos. English isn't my normal language, so when it starts getting very technical, I really need to put some effort understanding the meaning. :)

 

The first part about the cables.

You mean blue and black cable right?

For my understanding you mean it is ok to have 4 positive cables like I have, but I need 4 negative as well instead of 2?

 

About the PSU light. If I connect the positive cable from PSU A to the positive cable from PSU B directly without any diode, lights on both PSU will come on, even if I only plug one PSU to the wall. Is this dangerous to do in the long run?

 

I can assure you my diode is not busted, because the light only comes on for the PSU plugged to the wall.

 

At the moment my setup is still working, I start to suspect more and more it is system related. 

I will not touch anything for a while, and if it continues working I will try update drivers and running updates but keep testing for each change. Hopefully I can find the source to the problem. Maybe it is the same problem with the Alienware 18 R3?

IMG_20180622_135416.jpg

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10 minutes ago, Henrik9979 said:

Okay just for the curiosity, I soldered a third PSU directly to the output of the rectifier.

A ran some benchmark

That will be nice with some photos. English isn't my normal language, so when it starts getting very technical, I really need to put some effort understanding the meaning. :)

 

The first part about the cables.

You mean blue and black cable right?

For my understanding you mean it is ok to have 4 positive cables like I have, but I need 4 negative as well instead of 2?

 

About the PSU light. If I connect the positive cable from PSU A to the positive cable from PSU B directly without any diode, lights on both PSU will come on, even if I only plug one PSU to the wall. Is this dangerous to do in the long run?

 

I can assure you my diode is not busted, because the light only comes on for the PSU plugged to the wall.

 

At the moment my setup is still working, I start to suspect more and more it is system related. 

I will not touch anything for a while, and if it continues working I will try update drivers and running updates but keep testing for each change. Hopefully I can find the source to the problem. Maybe it is the same problem with the Alienware 18 R3?

IMG_20180622_135416.jpg

 

 

 

Okay I resoldered everything.

IMG_20180622_234510.thumb.jpg.1508213e683cbf038f25e8850024fc07.jpg

 

But the problem seems to be back. I tried measuring the voltage while the computer was running benchmarks.

The output voltage from the rectifier shows between 18,95 volts and 19 volts.

 

The input to the rectifier showed 19,44 volt on both PSU.

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1 hour ago, Henrik9979 said:

 

 

 

Okay I resoldered everything.

IMG_20180622_234510.thumb.jpg.1508213e683cbf038f25e8850024fc07.jpg

 

But the problem seems to be back. I tried measuring the voltage while the computer was running benchmarks.

The output voltage from the rectifier shows between 18,95 volts and 19 volts.

 

The input to the rectifier showed 19,44 volt on both PSU.

Okay I have now completely disconnected the rectifier and soldered all the positive cables together. The problem is still there!!! OMG I AM GETTING FURIOUS!!! WHY IS IT NOT WORKING?????

 

Also I am very confused because I unplugged one PSU the system will shut down under having heavy load, so it is kind of working.

IMG_20180623_011620.jpg

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50 minutes ago, Henrik9979 said:

Okay I have now completely disconnected the rectifier and soldered all the positive cables together. The problem is still there!!! OMG I AM GETTING FURIOUS!!! WHY IS IT NOT WORKING?????

 

Also I am very confused because I unplugged one PSU the system will shut down under having heavy load, so it is kind of working.

IMG_20180623_011620.jpg

 

 

This is just ridiculous, using 2 PSU each PSU deliver 140 watt, I have now connected a third PSU to the mix. Now 2 PSU deliver 115 watt and the last one deliver 60 watt!

 

The last one delivering 60 watt has the model number: Y90RR

If I disconnected one of the other PSU, it will go up to 115 watt. That means the other PSU starts deliver around 210 watt. If I plug the other PSU back in the PSU with model number: Y90RR drops down to 60 watt.

So something is telling how the power load should be splitted.

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I would suggest not to solder them together without the bridge. You are reading lower wattage because current flows among the psus. I am starting to suspect, your bridge is not suitable for this job. 

 

Try using another one. 

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Okay this is just getting wird...

Now every time I give up, I let it rest through the night, when I then turn everything back on, it is working?????

Now this morning it start working again... Now without a rectifier.

 

Okay you say I should try a different rectifier.

I order from this website https://el-supply.dk/v-5/standard-dioder

 

Can you find one on their list there should work?

Then I don't have to order one from another country.

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Posted (edited)
On 23/6/2018 at 1:39 PM, jerryzago said:

https://el-supply.dk/mbr6050pt-schottky-diode-50v-60a2x30/varenummer/5-25MBR6050PT

 

I suppose this one might do. I haven't taken any photos of mine. I can find my own diodes and sent a picture to you. I might have some to spare. 

That will be nice. Also I might have a theory for what could be the problem. I haven't tested it yet but I suspect the ID cable might cause some problems.

Some times the alienware says the PSU is not recognised, it doesn't might how the PSU's is connected. Sometimes it disappears when I disconnected the cable from the computer and put it back it, but not always. What makes it go away for sure is if I connect one of the PSU's directly to the computer.

 

Maybe you could test these combinations?

Disconnect the ID cable completely then try running a benchmark also using throttle stop and see if the GPU starts throttling when it is around 240 watt. Also it should not go above 240watt.

 

Then try the same but only connect one ID cable. I expect it to max out at 330watt.

 

The last thing is connect one ID cable to the ground cable. I see Mr.Fox talking about on another thread, connecting the ID cable to ground, let's the PSU give maximum output.

If this is true you should get 660 watt.

 

If all this is correct, then its my PSUs or adapter that is having problems sending and receiving the correct ID information.

Edited by Henrik9979

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Okay finally, I think I managed to get it to work.

To understand what did I need to make some things clear.

I have 3 PSUs

Two model XM3C3

One model Y90RR

 

The difference is the cables:

 

XM3C3 is having a thick cable with 2 white (+) wires, 2 black (-) wires and 1 green ID wire.

 

Y90RR is having a thin cable with 1 white (+), 1 black (-) and 1 green ID wire.

 

To connect the adaptor to the Alienware I used the cable from a XM3C3.

 

That means I used a XM3C3 PSU and a Y90RR to power everything.

 

Later I tried connecting 2 XM3C3 PSUs, but because I used the cable from the first XM3C3 to connect the adaptor to the alienware, I stole the cable from the Y90RR and connected it to the XM3C3.

 

I was still having problems.

 

What I did to make it work was using the Y90RR cable to connect the adaptor to the alienware instead of the XM3C3 cable. 

 

So now I am using 2 pure XM3C3 PSUs to power everything.

Also I made sure everything had big surfaces to solder together.

 

I keep my fingers crossed.

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Here are some photos of my setup.  I also have two psus. One is the official Dell with the other is a chineese clone. I also have the above part numbers and I am using only two.

 

Take a look at the diodes I have used.  I also never cut the original wires. I sourced some PSU extension cords and slice them for my needs. I am afraid to cut down PSU cables, because the amperage is too high. My diodes have a 20 amp tolerance and no forward voltage drop, so without powering up the laptop, I have a 19,44V and on extreme load (ex. benchmarking) I may drop to 18,64V. As you can see, the power delivered to the laptop is 544watss! 

 

My display is connected to the output area, so the numbers I am getting, are those reaching the laptop.

 

Lastly, Please don't connect directly the PSUs together, You may have caused some damage. 

I can use a single one PSU, but I get throttling on high demand, despite doing the trick. Having two of them, the system is flawless.

 

Keep in mind though, I don't have a 3920xm so my power draw is less.

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