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this thread makes me laugh, flurry of activity and then dead for days on end............

 

chuggin along here on  w 10 19037.1, running preview builds without problems.

 

another day, another update,,,,, 19041.1

Edited by mikmaze

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On 3/29/2019 at 11:09 AM, Squid00 said:

Alright, Hi guys, been lurking on the forum for a couple of weeks as I bought a couple of 2570p motherboards to frankenbuild some headless computers to run a budget homelab.. 

 

They both worked more of less straight off the bat with newly fitted i7 3630qm's and ssd's preinstalled with win10. Off topic, the audio chipset on this board sounds a grade higher than most laptops I've had or have had, which is a bonus.

 

Anyway, the one problem I am having is that I cannot get the bios to show on an external monitor. Someone a few posts up suggested plugging in VGA cable, but that hasn't worked either. Nothing will display until after I've booted into windows.

 

I also tried to blindly set boot options with the hopes of landing in a ubuntu live USB, but with no luck.

 

 ̶I̶f̶ ̶s̶o̶m̶e̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶h̶a̶s̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶m̶e̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶g̶e̶n̶e̶r̶o̶s̶i̶t̶y̶,̶ ̶c̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶ ̶t̶r̶y̶ ̶u̶n̶c̶o̶n̶n̶e̶c̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶l̶v̶d̶s̶ ̶c̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶f̶r̶o̶m̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶a̶n̶e̶l̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶l̶e̶a̶v̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶p̶l̶u̶g̶g̶e̶d̶ ̶i̶n̶t̶o̶ t̶h̶e̶ ̶m̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶b̶o̶a̶r̶d̶,̶ ̶(̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶l̶i̶k̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶d̶u̶m̶m̶y̶ ̶p̶l̶u̶g̶)̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ s̶e̶e̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶'̶r̶e̶ ̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶g̶e̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶o̶s̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶s̶h̶o̶w̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶a̶n̶ ̶e̶x̶t̶e̶r̶n̶a̶l̶ ̶m̶o̶n̶i̶t̶o̶r̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶a̶n̶y̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶i̶n̶p̶u̶t̶s̶?̶ ̶I̶'̶v̶e̶ ̶h̶a̶d̶ ̶s̶u̶c̶c̶e̶s̶s̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶t̶h̶i̶s̶ ̶m̶e̶t̶h̶o̶d̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶l̶a̶p̶t̶o̶p̶s̶.̶

 

Update: @Valera Master also has a headless 2570p and can see the bios with just a vga cable attached.

 

would be great to get passed this hurdle, so I can start I can start setting up a nas, and even mess around with an egpu.

 

thanks for any help in advance.

 

 

 

Sadly I was never able to get the bios to show via VGA. I tried hovering a magnet around the prescribed area of the motherboard (top right side) but with no success.  or if anyone knows if Does anyone know if lid sensor actually resides on the motherboard or if it was built into the plastic casing which I no longer have. 

 

I just have the bare motherboard of the laptop (no case, no plastic, no screen), hooked up to an external mouse, keyboard and a hdmi monitor. This all works fine, but I desperately want to get into the BIOS so I can enable virtualization. I tried watching a few videos of people tooling around inside various Elitebook bios setups to see if I could get lucky pressing keys blind in the hopes of enabling it. However, there are too many differences in the BIOS layout between models etc and I didn't manage to get anywhere.

 

My ultimate goal is to install macos, but I think there are a few settings I'd need to change in the bios. Would anyone be willing to help me out with some pictures of the bios (and instructions on how to save and exit without a mouse),

 

Any help would be massively appreciated.

 

 

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8 hours ago, Squid00 said:

Does anyone know if lid sensor actually resides on the motherboard

That magnet sensor (Hall Switch) isn't on the motherboard. It is on the function board with Mute botton, Wireless botton, Quickx botton, leds. 

 

Spoiler

45260214_InventecStyx_MV-52.thumb.jpg.0dc466cadb74127ce6af894d55ad16e3.jpg

 

There is 3.3v on LID_SW#_3_FNB if the lid is open.

Edited by invait53
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6 hours ago, invait53 said:

That magnet sensor (Hall Switch) isn't on the motherboard. It is on the function board with Mute botton, Wireless botton, Quickx botton, leds. 

 

  Reveal hidden contents

45260214_InventecStyx_MV-52.thumb.jpg.0dc466cadb74127ce6af894d55ad16e3.jpg

 

There is 3.3v on LID_SW#_3_FNB if the lid is open.

 

Ah! That makes sense - thanks!

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I ordered a function board and I'm now able to see the BIOS over DVI by placing a magnet over the sensor. Success! Thanks @invait53

Edited by Squid00
me english pretty

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Hello. 

Kheh. I buy used EB 2570p and I am crazy happy.

Display not so bad, like I feared.  Socketed CPU is awesome.

But previous owner plugged i5-3380M - is hot stuff!

And I, of course, decided to upgrade the cooling system. (for future cpu upgrade)

I find, in used goods shop, acceptable heatsink and cooler. Heatsink Toshiba satellite A100-192 (if believe to sticker name), cooler acer aspire 3610 F581-CW

 

The next steps:

1. expel hdd from his home, internal place. Now he will live in dvdrom bay)

2. remove some millimeters of steel (as more - as better) from native heatsink for better thermal contact. And cut off a layer from second heatsink. Second big reason - is very small space between lid and heatsink.

3. glued the second heatsink on thermal glue (for best fixation) and thermal grease in center of origin radiator.

4. Resistor 2W, 33 Ohm(in my case) connected to sata modified power connector and ---> cooler. It danger place, because strongly "upgraded" sata adapter may contact metal (non isolated)  to heatsink and kill them all, if you don’t trim it carefully.

 

Results: before: from  up to 90 degrees celsius under stresstest, After: temperature lower to 80 maximum value. Not sure about i7 :-)

 

Two large minuses:

1.  No warm air output from notebook, for this second coolant system. Only air circulation inside case.

2. No much space between lid and heatsink in some contact points. Tight touch. It plus for cooling(of course, lid will be like heatsink) but, if you drop notebook, it may damage cpu and socket/MB.

 

P.S. sorry for my english.

 

Spoiler

 

wd9ymyj6z5.jpg

oaej3ibiwc.jpg

ukbg7a2mjf.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by darkshvein
update images

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19 minutes ago, mikmaze said:

sounds pretty interesting dark, how about a few pictures to see how you did it?

I not make photos in process. I can show you more full picture, for good understanding, how to fixed it all. Photos from spoiler  incomplete.

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Recently i've found a russian review for the graphene thermal film (https://aliexpress.ru/item/32839728084.html review https://mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/72798.html), it's effectively spreads heat all over the horisontal surface, possibly it can be used as additional layer for the cooling system by gluing to the heat pipe in several layers. Maybe someone already tried this?

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Guys, did your elitebooks going to sleep correctly at 0% charge (when battery is discharged)? My EB awakes instantly after being put in sleep. Bios 73 nonwhitelisted.
 

Quote

The system has resumed from sleep.

Sleep Time: ‎2019‎-‎12‎-‎24T17:31:23.091663000Z
Wake Time: ‎2019‎-‎12‎-‎24T17:31:29.322047000Z

Wake Source: Power Button

 

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The three big limiting factors of the 2570p according to me :

1/ Noisy with quad core CPU

2/ Screen colors are bad

3/ WebCam quality

 

So, yes, I agree with you.

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I don't find it that loud, screen color not an issue  plugged in to a good monitor, webcam? seriously? creeeeepy.

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hello ,i'm newbie

i read 2570p can raid 0 on 256gb ssd + 256gb ssd

it is work for 8770w ?

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I don't see any reason it wont work on that, ditch the dvd drive, add second ssd in there, and raid 0 away,  but as with all raid 0, you loose one drive, you loose it all.    SSD on its own is super fast,  I don't see the benefit being worth the risk, 1 TB ssd  are going for about 80 bux now, so capacity is killer with a single drive, keep the dvd in case you need it.

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Hello 2570p owners!

 

I just got one after owning the 2560p.

 

I was reading up on the cooling ideas everyone has come up with, and I was thinking about taking an SSD casing off to where its just the PCB. It gives enough room to fit a whole second fan! I was thinking about getting a copper plate (sandwiched between CPU and stock heatsink), cutting and bending to shape to where there would be some surface area of the copper plate facing the new fan. I took a picture of my idea (So far just an idea, tell me what you think) and it might also require drilling into the new fan case (fan output is pointing directly to SSD)  OR modifying the fan to where its more of a square shape and have the fan output pointing towards the CPU, idk.  maybe also will require cutting into the "hump" between cpu and HD tray.

 

YKbvnGu.jpg

Edited by bckflpgyg
Added picture might need to host one

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The problem is not only cooling efficiency. And also the fact that the processor power system on the motherboard can not give out much.
Fucking forum engine. I’ll paste the text from the translator, and he’s doing such crap.
Edited by Valera Master

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18 hours ago, bckflpgyg said:

Hello 2570p owners!

 

I just got one after owning the 2560p.

 

I was reading up on the cooling ideas everyone has come up with, and I was thinking about taking an SSD casing off to where its just the PCB.

...

 

Yep it's a nice idea, that room can be utilized.

That copper plate can interface with the original heat pipe, is that what you intended?

You can use thermal glue for OK results or solder it for maximum performance. Soldering however takes skill and consideration (a lot of things that can mess up).

Another thing, how about using heat pipes instead of that copper plate? Pipes are more effective than plain copper, and may even be easier to get. However I am not knowledgeable if the cheap pipes on Aliexpress are good enough.

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I instead considering to make some holes with CNC or similar, in order to increase air intake just above the fan (with a slight dust filter eventually). I noticed that without the bottom cover, even with full 100% CPU usage on quads, temps never go over 82 degrees (vs 100ish Celsius with cover). Someone has already tried to improve in this way our notebook?

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22 hours ago, bckflpgyg said:

I was reading up on the cooling ideas everyone has come up with, and I was thinking about taking an SSD casing off to where its just the PCB. It gives enough room to fit a whole second fan!

Main problem is insufficient for the full 35W load heatpipe, not the fan.

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14 minutes ago, MioIV said:

Main problem is insufficient for the full 35W load heatpipe, not the fan.

 

I'm not fully agree with you; as I said above, without bottom cover it doesn't exceed 85°C with a 3740qm (which in my case, draw 41W), but that's sure its small heatpipe doesn't help. The best choose would probably be to put a faster/better fan (maybe with a better blade profile?) that fits in its place, and make a hole on the bottom cover just above it.

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3 hours ago, Filippo B said:

I instead considering to make some holes with CNC or similar, in order to increase air intake just above the fan (with a slight dust filter eventually). I noticed that without the bottom cover, even with full 100% CPU usage on quads, temps never go over 82 degrees (vs 100ish Celsius with cover). Someone has already tried to improve in this way our notebook?

Yes, drilling holes above the fan will drop a few degrees. I consider this sufficient for mostly throttle-less experience. Okay, if you want it to last decades you may want to keep it yet cooler, but otherwise I find these temps safe enough.

Btw. I got bottomless and never found a (reasonably priced) bottom cover, thanks to all you guys buying spare ones to drill on xD

 

23 minutes ago, MioIV said:

Main problem is insufficient for the full 35W load heatpipe, not the fan.

The pipe is surely not quite up to par, but if you decrease the temps at one end of the heat transfer system (i.e. at fan radiator), that will still lead to similar decrease of temps on the other end (i.e. at the chip). The bigger the temperature difference, the more powerful the heat transfer.

Air at fan will be colder with drilled holes, because it comes directly from outside, rather than from other parts of the laptop as per standard design.

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31 minutes ago, Filippo B said:

 

I'm not fully agree with you; as I said above, without bottom cover it doesn't exceed 85°C with a 3740qm (which in my case, draw 41W), but that's sure its small heatpipe doesn't help. The best choose would probably be to put a faster/better fan (maybe with a better blade profile?) that fits in its place, and make a hole on the bottom cover just above it.

Giving it fresh air would help, but blowing more air into the fan doesn't seem much use. I think it takes quite tight engineering to achieve a turbine-like system of fans, so that the air flow speed at the fins increases noticeably.

In this case MioIV's considerations of the heatpipe being a bottleneck already makes sense. If you want to improve from here, you rather need to widen the heat transfer bandwidth, that is, connect more pipes or a bigger pipe to the cpu.

Edited by batyanko

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Hey guys,

 

Recent Yoga 14 was scrapped due to parts availability. Currently shifting between my X220 and 2570p. I have a screen on order for the X220 with the nitrocaster mod, but think I may want to complete the mod with the 2570p instead as this will now be my main laptop. I've got a relatively NOS SX09 battery and the ability to get a quad core seems wonderful. Currently running stock i5, 16gb of ram, 256gb ssd.

2570p.jpg

Edited by jpsulisz
grammar

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