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Out of curiosity, is there any way to check how much PCI memory allocation space a GPU uses beforehand, like on its spec sheet somewhere? Or do we basically have to rely on what other people have tried before. I'm mostly considering the GTX 670 and 770 at this point, want to make sure they will be plug and play on my system.

It's not info NVidia publishes. We know because numerous people have collected it from their systems since it's an important limitation of eGPU implementations.

GTX670/680/760/770 are all good.. they use 128MB+32MB of space.

To be plug and play you'll need to install Win8.1 in UEFI mode on the 2570P. Ensure you get a Gen2 capable eGPU adapter as well: PE4C 3.0 (preferrable) or PE4L 2.1b. Avoid other BPlus/EXP GDC products.

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Hey nando, just want to say thanks for compiling all this information, you really helped me plan out my eGPU setup. You have any experience with Windows 10 on 2570p?

On an unrelated note, has anyone ever seen this: I plugged an external lcd into the VGA port on the back of the 2570p, and I notice the screen gets wavy lines (like heat over pavement) whenever the fan runs hard, or maybe when temps get high, not sure which. Good thing I'll be running hdmi off an eGPU! It's definitely not the panel since my X200 has been crystal clear on the same VGA cable for a year now.

On another note, I couldn't be more pleased with the 2570! Coming from the X200, it's amazing that I can play Fallout 3 smoothly on the iGPU. I kind of regret not getting a thunderbolt capable machine but this should do me for awhile.

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Hey nando, just want to say thanks for compiling all this information, you really helped me plan out my eGPU setup. You have any experience with Windows 10 on 2570p?

Suggest doing a UEFI installation with Win10 to have some extra capabilities over MBR: hotplug support, sleep-resume and error 12 fixed. Discussed at http://forum.techinferno.com/implementation-guides-pc/7636-14-hp-8470p-gtx770%404gbps-c-ec2-pe4l-2-1b-win8-1-%5B-jakethesnake438%5D.html#post102643

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Hey nando, just want to say thanks for compiling all this information, you really helped me plan out my eGPU setup. You have any experience with Windows 10 on 2570p?

On an unrelated note, has anyone ever seen this: I plugged an external lcd into the VGA port on the back of the 2570p, and I notice the screen gets wavy lines (like heat over pavement) whenever the fan runs hard, or maybe when temps get high, not sure which. Good thing I'll be running hdmi off an eGPU! It's definitely not the panel since my X200 has been crystal clear on the same VGA cable for a year now.

On another note, I couldn't be more pleased with the 2570! Coming from the X200, it's amazing that I can play Fallout 3 smoothly on the iGPU. I kind of regret not getting a thunderbolt capable machine but this should do me for awhile.

I get a lot of screen flickering when trying to run an external monitor off VGA. The VGA port on the 2570p is pretty poorly designed, it doesn't have screw pins on the side to tighten the connector so I can never get a good connection with VGA. I switched to using DisplayPort when not using the eGPU and haven't had problems since.

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So my GTX 770 got here and I realized I don't have an 8-pin PCIe connector on my PSU to use for it. My current PSU is the Cooler Master GX - 450W Power Supply. Would it be safe to buy a 2x molex to 8-pin PCIe converter or would I be better off upgrading my PSU? NVIDIA recommends 600W PSU for the GTX 770 but I'm not sure how relevant that is since I'm only running the GPU off the power supply.

Edit: never mind, saw that other people said using molex to 8-pin can be risky so I just decided to buy EVGA 500 B off amazon.

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Your intuition was right: 600W is recommended total system power. A stock Nvidia 770 uses 214W max according to this review: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_770/25.html

I like techpowerup 'cause they do card-only consumption and seem to cover the vendor variants- for instance, an MSI Twin Frozr 670 uses more power than an Nvidia 670.

ps thanks for the heads-up about the display port

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Hi people! I'm new here :) First off, thanks for all the great info I've got from this thread so far! You guys are awesome! So, I'm kinda new to this whole laptop upgrading thing but I have a couple of questions! Could I put 32gb ram in the 2570p? Also, could I use the expresscard for a desktop sound card instead of eGPU? Thanks!! Also, if anyone knows where to get any of the compatible quad core GPUs for cheap, I'd love to hear!! Thank you!

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hey ppl! ..does someone have any advice or experience with 2570p and Skylake? .. i'm looking for a cpu upgrade but dunno which one to buy.

currenty i've Intel® Core i5-3360M CPU @ 2.80GHz...

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INFO: Wiring the WLAN USB pins to the docking connector to enable WLAN Bluetooth (BCM94352AC+BT4.0)

I modified my WLAN slot to get unwhitelisted USB from the docking connector. Then installed my BCM94352HMB into the WLAN slot. I now use it's Bluetooth 4.0 (USB) with my mouse and now it works better than before. This is how I did it:

A docking station is the same as for HP 2570p and as for 2560p and I used a scheme for HP 2560p to find the docking USB. The docking connector:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16686[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16687[/ATTACH]

The WLAN connector:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16688[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16689[/ATTACH]

On the motherboard:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16690[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16691[/ATTACH]

Device manager now picks up the Bluetooth 4.0 (USB) on the WLAN card. Note that DW1550 BT is BCM94352.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16692[/ATTACH]

My original post where I used a USB hub as a proof-of-concept is in the spoiler below:

I use the BCM94352HMB and today I did some work and now Bluetooth works well. First I have find the docking USB and soldered with wires:

post-13505-14495001226959_thumb.jpg

I bought this USB hub and dismantled it. Then soldered it with docking connector. I confirmed the hub was detected and works OK:

post-13505-14495001228638_thumb.jpg

I then disconnected those USB hub wires and soldered it to the WLAN slot pins 36, 38 providing unwhitelisted USB on that slot:

post-13505-14495001229521_thumb.jpg

post-13505-14495001227825_thumb.jpg

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@invait53, nice work. Something I too wanted to do when I had the 2570P.

I've editted the post with more clarity on what I believe you've done there. Pls check and edit again if needed. I've also linked you from the opening post.

It would help to understand the process if perhaps the last photo was your BCM94352HMB installed in the wifi slot with some of the underlying added wiring visible.

I'll do photos later. It was an experiment. I want to take mSata pins from docking connector to try to enable mSata SSD.

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I'll do photos later. It was an experiment. I want to take mSata pins from docking connector to try to enable mSata SSD.

Just a heads up, I bridged the mSata pins and hooked up my Mushkin mSata card and got the unauthorized device screen. Maybe there's a whitelist in the bios.

One question on your mod, why did you use a USB hub? There should be 3.3v aux power on the WLAN slot for the BT. Did you wire the hub in between the board and the docking pins so you can still use the usb 2.0 on the dock?

I'm very interested in your hack, the stock BT device is crap.

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Just a heads up, I bridged the mSata pins and hooked up my Mushkin mSata card and got the unauthorized device screen. Maybe there's a whitelist in the bios.

One question on your mod, why did you use a USB hub? There should be 3.3v aux power on the WLAN slot for the BT. Did you wire the hub in between the board and the docking pins so you can still use the usb 2.0 on the dock?

I'm very interested in your hack, the stock BT device is crap.

USB pins in WLAN slot don't go anywhere. I tried to to check it by multimeter but didn't find any connections. The USB hub isn't necessary if you don't planning to install something else. You can directly connect USB docking pins and USB WLAN pins. I don't have the docking and I'm sure I will never bay it. That's why I used dock USB pins and sorry I don't know will it work together or not.

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I'll do photos later. It was an experiment. I want to take mSata pins from docking connector to try to enable mSata SSD.

SATA routed from the docking connector to the WWAN slot would be superb.

Just a heads up, I bridged the mSata pins and hooked up my Mushkin mSata card and got the unauthorized device screen. Maybe there's a whitelist in the bios.

One question on your mod, why did you use a USB hub? There should be 3.3v aux power on the WLAN slot for the BT. Did you wire the hub in between the board and the docking pins so you can still use the usb 2.0 on the dock?

I'm very interested in your hack, the stock BT device is crap.

Did you isolate pin 36+38 (USB) on the mSATA card? I believe some have an onboard USB controller to allow them to be used as USB. If detected as USB in the WWAN slot then it will give the bios unauthorized device screen.

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Tech Inferno Fan

"Did you isolate pin 36+38 (USB) on the mSATA card? I believe some have an onboard USB controller to allow them to be used as USB. If detected as USB in the WWAN slot then it will give the bios unauthorized device screen."

That's why I use the USB hub. I want to try to connect USB WWAN pins from USB hub. Just an other experiment. In two day I'll take mSata SSD from my friend and try to install it.

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Hey guys!

I've been reading recently everything I can find, regarding Elitebook 2570p and DELL E6330, and I am having trouble, deciding which one will do the job. I like the smaller form factor of the 2570p, but as I read, i found out that, the Dell is more prone to overclocking. I want to try the eGPU project, get some 2133mhz Ripjaws, raid-0 striping for ssds, and eventually change the cpu (it's pretty hard to find a 3rd gen mobile i7 quad).

I'm concerned about the space allocation for the HP, since I read that, without DSDT override, it can't be done. Or is it doable? I hope for more plug-n-play hardware. I like the Beast adapter, it's price and design too. And it is easier to obtain one, where I live.

I surely like the design of the HP more. But Tech Inferno Fan has moved to a 6440, which is giving me a headache deciding, which is better :) I don't think I'll try the x2 2.0 pci-e, I want an Expresscard adapter.

Sorry for the bad english, it's not my primary language.

Thanks in advance.

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Hey guys!

I've been reading recently everything I can find, regarding Elitebook 2570p and DELL E6330, and I am having trouble, deciding which one will do the job. I like the smaller form factor of the 2570p, but as I read, i found out that, the Dell is more prone to overclocking. I want to try the eGPU project, get some 2133mhz Ripjaws, raid-0 striping for ssds, and eventually change the cpu (it's pretty hard to find a 3rd gen mobile i7 quad).

I'm concerned about the space allocation for the HP, since I read that, without DSDT override, it can't be done. Or is it doable? I hope for more plug-n-play hardware. I like the Beast adapter, it's price and design too. And it is easier to obtain one, where I live.

I surely like the design of the HP more. But Tech Inferno Fan has moved to a 6440, which is giving me a headache deciding, which is better :) I don't think I'll try the x2 2.0 pci-e, I want an Expresscard adapter.

Sorry for the bad english, it's not my primary language.

Thanks in advance.

E6230, E6330 and E6430s all have a soldered dual-core CPUs and are only single-LVDS LCD capable (768P). You need a noticably larger E6430/E6530 to get a socketted CPU that can be upgraded to a quad-core as well as dual-LVDS capable (900P@14" or 900P/1080P@15").

Dell/Lenovo do not have any competitor at 12.5" that can offer the CPU performance of a 2570P.

FYI: a i7-3740QM already thermally throttles at it's max turbo multiplier when used in a 2570P. Really do need the beefier heatsink and larger chassis of say a E6430 to handle the higher temps when these CPUs get the extra unlocked turbo bins (+400Mhz) and raised TDP via UEFI variables.

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Oh well, I've ordered today one 2570p with i5-3360M, 4gigs ram and 128 gigs SSD. If everything is alright, I want to try some faster ram and one more ssd for raid-0.

Can you tell if, the 2133mhz G.Skill Ripjaws, run on the i5 ? If not, which faster rams run on this cpu ? I will search for faster cpus later on.

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Tech Inferno Fan>> merged details in spoiler in original WLAN-USB post by invait53.

Hello everybody. My friend has the HP 2570p too and I connected the docking USB directly to the WLAN USB without a USB hub. I used my the BCM94352HMB to check. It works well. A docking station is the same as for HP 2570p and as for 2560p and I used a scheme for HP 2560p to find the docking USB.

The docking connector:

post-13505-14495001294514_thumb.jpg

The WLAN connector:

post-13505-14495001296109_thumb.jpg

On the motherboard:

post-13505-14495001297435_thumb.jpg

Device manager:

post-13505-14495001298037_thumb.jpg

post-13505-14495001294187_thumb.jpg

post-13505-14495001295453_thumb.jpg

post-13505-14495001296774_thumb.jpg

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hey ppl! ..does someone have any advice or experience with 2570p and Skylake? .. i'm looking for a cpu upgrade but dunno which one to buy.

currenty i've Intel® Core™ i5-3360M CPU @ 2.80GHz...

Skylake is not compatible with a 2570P.. nor is Haswell.

There are plenty of examples of 2570P users upgrading to i7-quads on the opening post. Suggestion is to go for a i7-3630QM, i7-3720QM or i7-3740QM. It's a silicon lottery as to how efficient CPU you get which will determine it's maximum multipler when running in a 2570P.

The i7-37xxQMs will hold better resale value since they can have unlocked turbo bins (+400Mhz) if installed and activated in a Dell Latitude E6430/E6530 or other Ivy Bridge gaming notebook. The i7-36xxQMs have no unlockable turbo bins. However, those extra turbo bins cannot be unlocked in a 2570P nor are they useful since the 2570P starts thermally throttling with the standard multipliers anyway.

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well, my 2570p came today, very fresh condition, no visual damage. I like it very much ! This is my first HP. I've had multimedia Lenovos, Thinkpads, I currently have an ASUS RoG G750, and now this little baby. I like the sturdiness, the materials.

The thing I don't like - the noisy cooling fan (I've read some posts for undervolting the fan, using resistors, but what happens with the cooling efficiency of the fan ?).

And the SSD - it's obviously an OEM Samsung 470 series 128 gigs, with terrible 250 *official read speeds (my OCZ Vertex on my ASUS provides tested 510 MB/s read), and no Samsung support for OEM SSDs (I cant use Samsung Magician software to upgrade my firmware). I'm having troubles installing hard drive drivers (stuck on Microsoft ones from year 2006).

I like the grip of the keyboard buttons - they feel nice to the touch. I've installed one stick of 4GB 1600mhz memory, temporarily, untill I find the earlier mentioned G.Skill Ripjaws in the thread.

So - can I lower the noise of the fan, without lowering it's cooling efficiency?

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Looking to sell my current Chromebook Pixel backup PC (which just about limps along with Linux Mint) and get one of these in its place. Seems like they're going for about $250 on eBay, which seems like a steal. If anyone here is looking to sell their upgraded 2570p, shoot me a PM.

I am curious as to whether or not anyone ever managed to upgrade the display on these. The display sounds like absolute garbage from the specs. There must be a better panel that can slot in?

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By the way - the DELL E6320 has worse display.

I've order epoxy thermal adhesive - Thermopox 85TC with 7.5W/m-K conductivity (Arctic Alumina has 9W), and when it comes, I'm doing the copper coins cooling mod. I've played World of Tanks, and in 26 degreesh Celsius, the GPU went up to 97 degrees. I've changed the thermal paste with CM E1 Essentials (not from the best, but relatively cheap and on par with AC MX-2). The temperature dropped to 91-92 degrees. This is obviously not enough.

I'm wondering something - I saw the stock cooling fan - it is like a joke. Did somebody try some different fan ? I see that there are fans with more blades, with different design. I'm in the process of looking for another one to try.

I've read in a Dell forum, where Alienware users tried different fans, with different air displacement (from 2 CFM up to 10), and they had temp drops from 3 to 6 degrees.

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I am curious as to whether or not anyone ever managed to upgrade the display on these. The display sounds like absolute garbage from the specs. There must be a better panel that can slot in?

This has been discussed and is linked in the opening post.

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@Nando "Did you isolate pin 36+38 (USB) on the mSATA card? I believe some have an onboard USB controller to allow them to be used as USB. If detected as USB in the WWAN slot then it will give the bios unauthorized device screen."

It's been a while, but I did isolate the 36+38 pins on the mSATA card. I had some weird behavior in that it wasn't detected beforehand, but after I hooked up the mSATA lines I got the unauthorized device with and without the USB pins covered. If anyone really wants to use mSATA, it may be worth getting a mSATA to normal SATA breakout board from ebay and hooking up a normal SATA drive to see if it works. Not sure why you'd want this except if you want a mSATA boot SSD, SATA storage HDD, and retain the DVD drive. There are some awesome USB DVD drives out there that are better than what came with the system.

Also, what are your thoughts about the new Dell XPS 13 with the Thunderbolt 3 port? Too bad it doesn't have a quad core

@invait53 - nice job with using a twisted pair USB for the usb wires. Did you pull the wires from an ethernet or USB cable? I ordered a used BT card and plug from ebay to see if I can trick the USB whitelisting on the BT port. From my experiments earlier, I remember that the power was cut from the whitelisted ports but I didn't check the data lines if you have an unauthorized device.

@PityOnU - you might be able to change the display but you run into the following issues:

1. no direct swap is available for a 12.5" IPS

2. 12.5" IPS displays exist for Lenovo and Dell systems with LVDS but the controller board is below vs behind the screen AND the mounting holes are in the wrong place. It looks like the board is connected to the screen with two non-removable FFCs. I'm strongly considering purchasing one of these screens with the mounting holes on the top, soldering in long FFCs, moving the board to behind the screen to fit, building adapter brackets for the mounts, and using an extension 40-pin LVDS cable. I have to buy the screen before finding/buying the replacement FFCs. Doable? Yes, sort of. You'll need $100 US, a lot of soldering experience, luck, and patience. 100 bucks will buy you either 16GB of good RAM, 250GB Samsung 850 Evo SSD, or gets you halfway to a 3632QM so if you're new to the club then I would start your upgrades there as they'll change your experience much more easily and significantly than the screen.

@johny328 - Have you tried a laptop cooling stand? Back when I had time for playing games I used one on this laptop and it significantly reduced the temps.

I also replaced the keyboard with one from ebay. Although it's spill resistant, apparently that doesn't apply to the down key. I spilled a little bit of water at the bottom corner of the keyboard. I got a bare replacement from ebay, which means it's without the silver grille between the keys and the plastic underneath the keyboard. The grille is connected with some pins that protrude through to the underside of the keyboard, and there's orings that grab onto these pins to keep the trim in place. I had to superglue the orings to the pins, so if I destroy my keyboard again I'll need the complete assembly. I made my own underside plastic water shield by using clear plastic shipping tape, and cut holes where the original drain holes were. I hope to not try to check the water resistance of the new keyboard again. It was about half the price, but 4x the work getting it together.

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I don't trust in these laptop stands. And I don't like their idea too, I like the portability, and not wearing one more thing with me.

I've tried to play without it's bottom service door, and the temps dropped with 5-6 degrees. But I don't like this idea too. I hope that, this week, when my thermal conductiv adhesive comes, the cooling mod will do it's job.

I'm asking again - have anyone tried with another fan ? The stock one doesn't seem good.

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