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Newbie here, please be patient with me :) . Just received my HP 2570p, read quite a bit of this thread. Did a few searches too, but I don't see a way to filter by date (search results for Windows 10 dating from 2013 would obviously be useless, but I digress).

Has anyone tried Windows 10? Any major issues? I'm a bit impatient and was planning on cloning the drive to an SSD I have, then upgrading that to the next Windows 10 build (been running it since last year on an old Dell 14z), doing a reset, then see if that upgrades to RTM and recognizes it upgraded from Win7 (if not, then just pop the original drive in, let it upgrade, and that should tie the license to the laptop). If there are some serious issues with Windows 10 then I'll hold off and just enjoy Windows 7.

I wouldn't mind a cpu upgrade, but my head is spinning with all the options. I "think" I'd like a 4-core 35watt that's fairly inexpensive (maybe $150 or so). Quick googling/amazoning/ebaying shows this may not be possible. Should I expand my search to include 45watt cpus (heat issues? if so, can they run at a lower speed at 35w?)?

I have an sata drive adapter for the cd-rom bay ordered, should get to me within the next month or so (coming from Hong Kong or China or who knows). I've never swapped faceplates before, any tips? Or just don't worry about it and have some super glue handy?

Oh, pricing, got it for $325 shipped. That's AUD, with our crappy exchange that's about $250 USD.

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Newbie here, please be patient with me :) . Just received my HP 2570p, read quite a bit of this thread. Did a few searches too, but I don't see a way to filter by date (search results for Windows 10 dating from 2013 would obviously be useless, but I digress).

Has anyone tried Windows 10? Any major issues? I'm a bit impatient and was planning on cloning the drive to an SSD I have, then upgrading that to the next Windows 10 build (been running it since last year on an old Dell 14z), doing a reset, then see if that upgrades to RTM and recognizes it upgraded from Win7 (if not, then just pop the original drive in, let it upgrade, and that should tie the license to the laptop). If there are some serious issues with Windows 10 then I'll hold off and just enjoy Windows 7.

I wouldn't mind a cpu upgrade, but my head is spinning with all the options. I "think" I'd like a 4-core 35watt that's fairly inexpensive (maybe $150 or so). Quick googling/amazoning/ebaying shows this may not be possible. Should I expand my search to include 45watt cpus (heat issues? if so, can they run at a lower speed at 35w?)?

I have an sata drive adapter for the cd-rom bay ordered, should get to me within the next month or so (coming from Hong Kong or China or who knows). I've never swapped faceplates before, any tips? Or just don't worry about it and have some super glue handy?

Oh, pricing, got it for $325 shipped. That's AUD, with our crappy exchange that's about $250 USD.

You'll see i7-3610QM or i7-3630QM CPUs appear on ebay-AU quite regularly. They go for < $150. That's a good bang-per-buck CPU. You can always limit it to run with ~<35W TDP by setting highest multipliers in Throttlestop. This and a lot more is already summarized on the opening post of this thread.

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You'll see i7-3610QM or i7-3630QM CPUs appear on ebay-AU quite regularly. They go for < $150. That's a good bang-per-buck CPU. You can always limit it to run with ~<35W TDP by setting highest multipliers in Throttlestop. This and a lot more is already summarized on the opening post of this thread.

I searched for at least a half dozen different cpus, nothing was anywhere close to that price (talking $300, $500, and higher). I obviously didn't search for the i7-3610QM, there it is for $160. Will have to look into that, thanks!

I vaguely remember making a note that I'd rather not rely on software to lower a 45w cpu to 35w. I don't remember what my reasoning was. I should really use a better system for my notes (such as, actually writing them down).

Been reading for the past week or so. Have a game plan, just have to make some big (to me) decisions. Like MBR or UEFI (ok, it's MBR or GPT which enables UEFI, but you know what I mean). I'd like to go MBR just because I understand it, but I'd want some assurance that once Windows has booted there's virtually no difference between UEFI and non. I thought there wouldn't be, but since eGPU works a bit different with or without UEFI...well, I just need to make a decision instead of stalling. Also read a few posts where people with my drive had issues with GPT (Samsung 840 250GB, not the EVO version). Doesn't make sense.

I'll try using grub2 to enable ASPM. Should be able to re-use Windows's EFI partition if I go that route. Not sure if that'd be any safer than having its own. Definitely going to chain-load, on my Dell I have it setup to completely boot into linux, run the commands to modify some settings, then reboot into Windows. Makes for some LOOOOONG boot times. Doing everything from grub is brilliant (straight from MBR is even more so, but I don't think I'm at that level).

Have the bios backed up, now to decide which version I want to flash.

Many thanks for your posts, I have quite a few of them bookmarked.

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@phillofoc Nah, they are running at normal timings, see screenshot.

Also I'm now in a situation where I have the following wifi cards:

Intel 6205 (currently in 2570p)

Intel 6300 (currently in 2560p)

Intel 7260

AzureWave BCM 94352

Any idea what's the best way to compare them somewhat objectively?

post-36371-14495000390465_thumb.jpg

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@phillofoc Nah, they are running at normal timings, see screenshot.

Also I'm now in a situation where I have the following wifi cards:

Intel 6205 (currently in 2570p)

Intel 6300 (currently in 2560p)

Intel 7260

AzureWave BCM 94352

Any idea what's the best way to compare them somewhat objectively?

7260 and BCM 94352 are the only 802.1AC cards from your shortlist.

7260 can be problematic unless get the right driver sorted.

imho, the BCM 94352 is the better card. Only issue I encountered was booting any Ubuntu did not have the wifi enabled by default. Needed to play around with loading the module for it. Oh.. and if you're thinking hackintosh then the ONLY choice from your shortlist is the BCM 94352. Intel wifi cards aren't supported by OSX.

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@phillofoc Nah, they are running at normal timings, see screenshot.

Also I'm now in a situation where I have the following wifi cards:

Intel 6205 (currently in 2570p)

Intel 6300 (currently in 2560p)

Intel 7260

AzureWave BCM 94352

Any idea what's the best way to compare them somewhat objectively?

I'd go with the BCM 94352. The 7260 works but is buggy on 2.4ghz networks. Not normally a problem for me as I run 5Ghz but can be when I travel.

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I'd go with the BCM 94352. The 7260 works but is buggy on 2.4ghz networks. Not normally a problem for me as I run 5Ghz but can be when I travel.

Buggy? What do you mean?

I just tested the cards a bit. They were all tested with the 2570p and latest drivers. For the BCM 94352 I took the WIndows 8.1 driver from lenovo.

It is pretty hard to objectively compare these cards. Luckily the only wifi out here is my own, so at least no other wifi AP's are distorting my signals.

I'm not sure the SNRs I get from inSSIDer are a good measure of signal strength, but I can say that the Intel 6300 had the best values and was the only card which had a SNR as low as 50. Also the SNR was better when used in my 2560P with three wifi antennas compared to my 2570P where i used two wifi and one WWAN antenna. The BCM seems to be the worst in terms of SNR reported by inSSIDer, mostly somewhere between -65 and -70 dBm.

As for speed I just connected my 2560P via cable to my wifi router (FritzBox 7360SL, 11n, 2.4GHz, max. 300mbits) and shared a 100mb file. Then I uploaded/downloaded the file via wifi on my 2570P. I tested it three times with every card and every time the values were about the same.

BCM: Upload: ~3MB. Download: ~3.5MB.

6300: Upload: ~3MB. Download: ~4MB

7260: Upload: ~3MB. Download: ~5.5MB

I think I will go with the Intel 7260, because of the following reasons:

  • Cost: You can get a 7260 very cheap on eBay, like 10-15€. Meanwhile the cheapest BCM 94352 I could find was 40€.
  • Seems to be faster than BCM and Intel 6300 (at least when the router isn't capable of doing 450mbit and you are not far away. Apparently the 6300 should do better on loger range?)
  • Better driver support than the BCM card. (For some reason you can't get the driver for the BCM 94352 directly at Broadcom but instead you have to download it from Lenovo, Asus etc.)
  • Unlike 6300 capable of doing 802.11ac
  • Needs less power than 6205/6300.

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I would edit my previous post, but it's not showing up yet, so hopefully a new one will be ok.

Replacement batteries. Here's what I've found out:

Info for the OEM 6-cell (which I currently have):

Part number 632016-542, replacement number 632421-001

Specs: 11.1V 5225mAh 62Wh

Here's the info I've found for the official HP 9-cell battery:

Part number (replacement) 632423-001

Specs: 11.25V 8850mAh 100Wh

When buying a replacement, the important part is the mAh or the Wh number. I can get a replacement 6-cell on eBay for $48AUD/$37USD ($40AUD/$31 from a seller not specializing in batteries) and a 9-cell for $53AUD/$41USD, but not only are they generic, the actual capacity is lower. The 6-cell is 4400mAh 49Wh and the 9-cell is 6600mAh 73Wh. So when you search, pay more attention to the mAH and/or the Wh. Just because it's 9 cells doesn't mean it's much/any better than an OEM 6 cell.

That said, anyone find a good 9 cell battery replacement? So far the best I've found is $55USD, don't know if links are allowed but searching for the model # (and ignoring Amazon) should show you the way. I certainly don't mind third-party if the quality is there. A reconditioned 9-cell HP battery with higher capacity mAh cells (quality cells, not the knockoff 500mAh cells labelled as 5000mAh) would be awesome.

And just in case I'm extremely bored and reckless, anyone know if the BMS chip in the battery is the type that needs to see constant voltage, and if the voltage ever hits zero it shuts down and will never allow a charge again? I wouldn't want to wire replacement cells in parallel if I don't have to. Finding quality replacement cells with a bit higher mAh rating than the original could allow me to gain the capacity of a third-party 9-cell battery with the footprint (and BMS) of an OEM 6-cell.

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And just in case I'm extremely bored and reckless, anyone know if the BMS chip in the battery is the type that needs to see constant voltage, and if the voltage ever hits zero it shuts down and will never allow a charge again? I wouldn't want to wire replacement cells in parallel if I don't have to. Finding quality replacement cells with a bit higher mAh rating than the original could allow me to gain the capacity of a third-party 9-cell battery with the footprint (and BMS) of an OEM 6-cell.

HP have a long-life 55Whr battery for the 2570P. That one holds that capacity for a very long time.

Their 62Whr and 100Whr batteries quickly lose that capacity. My 62Whr became 52Whr within weeks!

I can't comment on your point about the BMS chip but would be VERY interested in your experience in changing the cells. I wanted to do the same many times. There are some very high quality Panasonic 3400mAH 18650 cells that would be idea for such a swapout. Consider that a 6-cell battery using those cells would be 75Wh (3.7*3400*3*2). https://www.fasttech.com/category/1420/batteries/?panasonic%2018650

There you'd get capacity, longevity and the lighter/smaller 6-cell battery footprint.

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HP have a long-life 55Whr battery for the 2570P. That one holds that capacity for a very long time.

Their 62Whr and 100Whr batteries quickly lose that capacity rather quickly.

Did not know about the long-life battery (I should have, since it was offered with the last HP I bought (the HDX18t, also known as the exact opposite of portable). I'll look into it. How much longer does it hold the capacity? Just thinking that if it's still at, say, 90% capacity after two years and the 100Wh is at 50% that's about the same at that point (plus the higher capacity in the beginning). But if we're talking many many years of use, I might go that route. Knowing my battery is going to last for the next 5+ years is definitely worth something.

I can't comment on your point about the BMS chip but would be VERY interested in your experience in changing the cells. I wanted to do the same many times. There are some very high quality Panasonic 3400mAH 18650 cells that would be idea for such a swapout. Consider that a 6-cell battery using those cells would be 75Wh (3.7*3400*3*2). https://www.fasttech.com/category/1420/batteries/?panasonic%2018650

There you'd get capacity, longevity and the lighter/smaller 6-cell battery footprint.

Those cells do look ideal, and around the price I was looking for (around $5-$8 per cell). I'll search some more to see if anyone's already replaced the cells in the same/similar battery. I really don't want to wire the batteries in parallel unless I have to (if the BMS kills itself after 0V, then you have no choice but to temporarily wire them in parallel, or at least find some way to keep the volts from dropping too low). If you attempt this, both packs need to be at the same (or as close as possible) voltage. If you have a nearly dead pack and the voltage difference is too much, I wouldn't risk it. A voltage differential means that one pack is charging the other once connected. Having a Li-Ion battery charge in an uncontrolled manner is not the best idea.

Ok, let's see if I can contribute something worthwhile.

Can a bios backup performed via fpt be restored on a different laptop as long as it's the same model? If so, would anyone be interested in a backup of F.34? I backed up just before installing F.61.

My idea of cloning the Win7 install to my SSD and upgrading that to Win10 hit a snag. The current Win7 install is MBR and I want to end up with a Win10 install with GPT (using UEFI). Yeah, I can probably do it, but I'm just going to update Win7 so it's ready for a Win10 upgrade, then shelve that hard drive until 29 July. I'll do a clean install on my SSD, probably the current Win10 build using GPT. I'll pop the old drive in when Win10 hits RTM so I can claim my free upgrade, and go from there. I know that once you've taken the free upgrade, you can subsequently do a clean install and the license is still recognized.

I'll report back once I've installed Win10, in case anyone's interested.

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Can a bios backup performed via fpt be restored on a different laptop as long as it's the same model? If so, would anyone be interested in a backup of F.34? I backed up just before installing F.61.

Yes, this is possible. However, I'd advise not to share your BIOS out since your serial number details are encoded in it.

Besides, a F.34 bios dump is linked at the opening post.

If go with the battery 18650 cell swap out then please report your findings. I'm most interested.

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hi,

just swaped my M500 SED-enabled drive from Lenovo X220 to 2570p.

2570p detects drive correctly, in BIOS i can see that drive locked, but I don't get password prompt for SED drive during boot.

My BIOS version is "50", i try to randomly switch a couple of related parameters, with no luck. I just get "No OS found" error.

What can help me, why 2570p isn't prompt for password. Thanks.

edit:

Try to use upgrade bay, no luck

Next i reinstall SSD in X220, disable drive encryption (with blank passwords), than enabled again OPAL in 2570p. Now it worked as expected.

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Buggy? What do you mean?

When the 7260s first came out, their operation on 2.4ghz networks were terrible. They would work great for 20-30 minutes, then the link speed would slowly drop to 1mbps and would lose the connection until you either turned off the wifi or rebooted (can't remember). It was no good for pretty much anything om 2.4ghz.

There were two fixes that you can do to fix this issue, the first is disable power saving (where it drops the power) on your router and the second (best) is to go into your device manager and turn off your HT mode. This means that your connection speed will drop but you will have a stable connection (2.4ghz only).

Other than that, it's a great card. I have an Asus RT-n56U router (N only) and regularly see 11-12 MBps, sometimes up to 16MBps depending on the time of day to my NAS (on Ethernet). Pretty much Usb 2.0 hdd speeds so im happy.

I also taped over the aux 3.3v line to cut power from the BT side, but I don't think it has any real affect on power consumption.

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Oh well, that doesn't sound good. Guess I will keep the BCM for a week or so in case something like that happens. So far the Intel 7260 works fine though.

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When I got the card, the bug was really noticeable. It seems to be fixed with the latest drivers, and if not, then there's an easy fix.

I'm running version 16.10.0.5 of the drivers. Even if you install "newer" drivers, if the update doesn't have anything for your wifi card it will leave the old driver.

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Newbie here, please be patient with me :) . Just received my HP 2570p, read quite a bit of this thread. Did a few searches too, but I don't see a way to filter by date (search results for Windows 10 dating from 2013 would obviously be useless, but I digress).

Has anyone tried Windows 10? Any major issues? I'm a bit impatient and was planning on cloning the drive to an SSD I have, then upgrading that to the next Windows 10 build (been running it since last year on an old Dell 14z), doing a reset, then see if that upgrades to RTM and recognizes it upgraded from Win7 (if not, then just pop the original drive in, let it upgrade, and that should tie the license to the laptop). If there are some serious issues with Windows 10 then I'll hold off and just enjoy Windows 7.

I wouldn't mind a cpu upgrade, but my head is spinning with all the options. I "think" I'd like a 4-core 35watt that's fairly inexpensive (maybe $150 or so). Quick googling/amazoning/ebaying shows this may not be possible. Should I expand my search to include 45watt cpus (heat issues? if so, can they run at a lower speed at 35w?)?

I have an sata drive adapter for the cd-rom bay ordered, should get to me within the next month or so (coming from Hong Kong or China or who knows). I've never swapped faceplates before, any tips? Or just don't worry about it and have some super glue handy?

Oh, pricing, got it for $325 shipped. That's AUD, with our crappy exchange that's about $250 USD.

I find the rules a bit unclear on whether soliciting outside the marketplace is allowed or not, but since I can't PM you, I'd just like to let you know I have a 3612QM I'd be willing to part with around your budget due to financial hardship. Great chip, usually pretty cool around 60-70C with low fans, in my own machine it maxes out temps at 96 if I uncap vsync while playing SC2 for example, but there doesn't seem to be much in the way of throttle or anything (partly because the speed bins don't go that high). It's 35W.

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Ok, with Windows 10 build 10158 released, I've spent all day getting this laptop set up. A lot of things I've done were absolutely not necessary, but I'll outline some of them anyway.

First, I had updated the original Windows 7 install to the point it started bugging me to reserve my copy of Windows 10. I did so, backed up the activation info, then took out the drive for safekeeping.

From my other laptop (Dell 14z, model N411Z) I prepped a usb drive using Rufus for:

Windows 10 10158 64bit (select the iso first, then change the Partition Scheme to GPT and filesystem to FAT32)

Windows 7 Pro 64bit (same as above)

Clonezilla (must use the regular bios version, so choose MBR and FAT32)

Two quick notes, currently there are no ISOs for Windows 10 10158, so I let my laptop download the upgrade, found the ESD, and converted that. Second, for most people there'd be no need to install Windows 10 first, then 7, and back to 10 (and backing up/restoring partitions). I just want Windows 10 to remember it was upgraded from Windows 7, and also to be as close to a true clean install as possible.

Next, I installed the SSD from the Dell into the HP. Changed the bios setting to full UEFI. Fired up the Windows 10 install, before doing anything else I Shift-F10, used diskpart to convert to gpt. Then I let it install with all the defaults selected.

For the heck of it, I then booted up Clonezilla to backup the first three partitions (the fourth was the Windows install). I had to change the bios from UEFI to Legacy. I have yet to re-back them up and restore the original, I'll report back if something bad happens (again, doing this to get back to a clean install state, but keeping the activation info).

Edit: Bad stuff happened, don't do that. Well, it wasn't too bad. There were two problems, one is that Windows 10 wouldn't use the prior Recovery Image, it insisted on using the non-existent one. Second, one of the partitions had filesystem corruption, and Windows generally doesn't mount hidden partitions to run a chkdsk. So, I found out how to mount them, Windows would not let me see any files but it DID let me run chkdsk /f. Back in Windows I had to deactivate and reactivate Recovery Environment (if memory serves, it's reagentc /deactivate and reagentc /activate ; I think /info would give you info). If you mess up like I did, symptoms will include not being able to run recovery functions, and having the laptop not power down for Hibernate or regular Shutdown (which is a type of hibernate); Shift + Shutdown worked as expected.

Once that was done, I went back into the bios and changed to Hybrid UEFI (Windows 7 won't install with full UEFI). Then I installed Windows 7, formatting (not deleting) the main partition and then installing to it. Once Windows 7 Pro SP1 was installed, I let it go through one round of updates (oh, first I had to go to another laptop and download the Intel Gigabit Lan driver, Win7 did not recognize the wired or wireless adapters). Then I restored the activation info so Windows 7 knew it was activated.

Then I started the Windows 10 upgrade from inside Windows 7. I skipped inputting a key (the one currently given only works for the prior build), when asked what I'd like to keep I selected "Nothing". I babysat it until it rebooted, then immediately went into the bios to change it back to full UEFI.

The end result is a system that recognizes it was upgraded from Windows 7 (Windows 10 is activated, even though I didn't enter a key) and is virtually the same as a clean install (just delete Windows.old).

There are three drivers that aren't automatically installed in Windows 10. Here's the info given in Device Manager, and the corresponding Windows 8.1 driver I downloaded from HP's site:

VEN_197B&DEV_2392&SUBSYS_17DF103C: JMicron Media Card Reader Driver

VEN_HPQ&DEV_6001: HP Wireless Button Driver (American, International)

VEN_HPQ&DEV_6000: HP 3D DriveGuard 5

I didn't install the exe. Rather I fired up Winrar, extracted the three packages to their own directory in Downloads, then pointed Windows to the Downloads directory (including subfolders, of course) to find the drivers. Worked like a charm.

Oh, I should also point out that the Edge browser did a superb job of downloading Firefox.

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guys I was browsing my local computer stores last night and luckily I found a 2560p used laptop for about $ 205 bucks now I wanted to know if is this the same breed as the 2570p and can it support the desired upgrades like CPU and extra storage solution up to 2 TB?

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guys I was browsing my local computer stores last night and luckily I found a 2560p used laptop for about $ 205 bucks now I wanted to know if is this the same breed as the 2570p and can it support the desired upgrades like CPU and extra storage solution up to 2 TB?

CPU and storage update is also possible on the 2560p, but IIRC there were some limitations when using 45W quad cores in it.

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guys I was browsing my local computer stores last night and luckily I found a 2560p used laptop for about $ 205 bucks now I wanted to know if is this the same breed as the 2570p and can it support the desired upgrades like CPU and extra storage solution up to 2 TB?

2560P can support i7-quad updates but only 2nd-gen which run quite a bit hotter so TDP throttle down to about 2.7Ghz in 4-core mode. Whereas a 3rd-gen can run up to 3.5Ghz (+800Mhz over 4 cores) REF: http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/6958-haswell-step-backwards-ivy-bridge-i-have-some-shocking-tdp-results.html#post95181

The cooler 3rd gen CPUs are not supported. Neither is RAID-0 storage, nor is there a USB 3.0 port on the system. Also, the 2560P wifi slot is whitelisted whereas it's not on the 2570P.

Worth getting a 2570P over a 2560P for it's better feature set.

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I have a 2570, w/o HDD I want to boot to the UEFI Shell.

If I understand correctly I have to boot to a "FILE" then select the shell.efi??

where can I get the EFI shell components? can I put them on a Pendrive ?

My God, sometimes HP is a real PITA...

any help appreciated.

Thanks...

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I have a 2570, w/o HDD I want to boot to the UEFI Shell.

If I understand correctly I have to boot to a "FILE" then select the shell.efi??

where can I get the EFI shell components? can I put them on a Pendrive ?

My God, sometimes HP is a real PITA...

any help appreciated.

Thanks...

Solved

Uefi shells

1.0 https://svn.code.sf.net/p/edk2/code/trunk/edk2/EdkShellBinPkg/FullShell/X64/

2.0 https://svn.code.sf.net/p/edk2/code/branches/UDK2010.SR1/ShellBinPkg/UefiShell/X64/

2.1.a https://svn.code.sf.net/p/edk2/code/branches/UDK2014.SP1/ShellBinPkg/UefiShell/X64/

2.1.b https://svn.code.sf.net/p/edk2/code/trunk/edk2/ShellBinPkg/UefiShell/X64/

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Is there any location from where i can download Windows 7 OEM for the 2570P ? The link in the first post in not available anymore

Thanks

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      Hi,
      I want to show you my new project.
      I bought my laptop about 5 years ago.  It was never speed deamon, but for every day use, it was enough to me.
       
      Its specification:
      Intel i7-4700MQ
      Nvidia GeForce GT745M
      16GB RAM
      512 SSD Adata SU800

       
      Yesterday I bought Witcher 3. Of course on 1080p it's impossible to play, because of about 10fps
       
      So I make a decision to buy external grahpic card.
      I choose GTX970 and now I am looking for occasion to buy it.
       
      I've already bought EXP GDC v8.4d mPCI-E. It is used and cost about 30$.

       
      I will use ATX PSU to supply graphic card, because I have old desktop PSU at home.
       
      My plan:
      1) unlock bios
      2) buy GTX 970
      3) enjoy Witcher 3!
       
      BTW I try to cool down my laptop, so I replaced thermal paste to Kryonout Thermal Grizzly and make some tests. Temperatures and fps are on screenshots.
       
      1) laptop on table, playing GTA V 1080p

       
      - first minute (GPU core 1045MHz)

       
      -after some time, because of high temperature and GPU throlttling (GPU core drop down even to 400MHz)

       
      2) with thermalpad Glacier NC400 SilentiumPC

      - 30 minute and longer (GPU core drop to about 900MHz)
       
      3) without down case of laptop (like on picture with thermal paste) on thermalpad.
      Here laptop never drops down MHz and max temp are about 72 Celsius degrees.

       
       
      Bacause of that I bought second down case for my laptop and I will cut there additional holes.
       
      Greetings!
       
      I will describe next step when I get all stuff I need!
       
       
    • By popozitos
      Hello everyone
      I created a case for egpu using 2.5mm acrylic sheets. The first time I created a case to support a GPU + ATX psu
      Now I created another one for the GPU with an external Xbox 360 203w psu.
      the finish was not good but for my use it is already good.
       
      *both cases album
      *Construction of the second case 
      *adapting xbox psu to 8pin power (taken from 24pin)
       
      all made by hand with the tools I had.

      from Brazil.

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