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Introduction

The RAID_0 was very easy to setup thanks to Mr.Fox's "windows installation guide", I've only made these instructions custom for 2570P users.

What do I need?

· 2 x SSD drives: I used 2 x 256GB Sandisk Ultra Plus

· 9.5mm HDD caddy: $11 eBay

· A knife

· Some sturdy glue, I used LocTite Super Glue.

· 4GB+ USB thumbdrive

Instruction

RAID_0 Setup for Win 7

  1. Make an WIN7 USB installation with Windows USB/DVD download Tool and a Win7 ISO (fully legal)
    NOTE: If can't find Home edition of your language you can download Pro edition and delete \sources\ei.cfg to be able to choose home edition later on in the installation.
  2. In bios: Set ‘Sata Device Mode’ to RAID
  3. In bios: Set USB-boot in top of the list of BOOT Devices
  4. Boot up Win7 installation from the USB-drive
  5. Inside installation make sure to delete all partitions so that you end up with two unallocated disks (disk 0 and disk 1)
    post-6049-1449499600007_thumb.jpg
  6. Install Windows 7 one of the unallocated drives, for me disk 1 worked whilst disk 0 didn't (can’t explain why, but I guess it has to do with the RAID setting from BIOS).
  7. Windows should now be installed. Since we only have allocated space on one disk we need to enter Disk Management in Windows: type “partition” in start menu search field (no quotes) press enter.
  8. Inside Disk Management: Extend the allocated disk (C:\) with unallocated space of the second disk by choosing “Extend Volume”.
  9. Now it's time to create our RAID-array. Install RTS (Intel’s Rapid Storage Technology) from HP or Intel website. I took my RTS from HP's 2570P drivers archive.
  10. Under “Create” tab: You can create the RAID-array, choose RAID 0.
  11. Setting Stripe size? This is something I forgot to do and had to settle with default 32KB. I’m happy with it so I don’t really care. In other words, I have no clue what's preferred.
  12. Press next and wait some 30 minutes or so in order to migrate data from (in my case) disk 1 to disk 0.
  13. You’re done! Now it should look something like my "Darth_Raider" =)
    post-6049-14494996000219_thumb.png

ODD Face Plate mod (text instructions only)

1. Remove the optical drive (one screw under the notebook's back cover)

2. Take pictures of how the original bezel is attached to the optical drive

3. Pry of the bezel off of your optical drive (no point of being careful)

4. Cut off all ‘hinges’ from the bezel so it’s then flat and nice

5. Remove the (very useless) bezel from the eBay caddy by removing two screws under the sticker.

6. Use a light touch of glue (or tape) to test-fit the odd bezel on the eBay caddy.

I7. f you're happy (nothing is sticking out?), glue it on permanently!

Results

RAID_0 Benchmarks: AS SSD & CrystalDiskMark

post-6049-14494996000495_thumb.png

Boot-up Time (Video): ~16s from power on to desktop

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Hi, what is Your average idle temps during normal day, with using chrome (or other internet browser), foobar/winamp, some office sheets after few hours and fan on constant 3100rpm?

would You do 3dmar11, performance preset and attach HWinfo photo taken after test? Im interested in temps, CPU Fan and clock frequencies :)

Typically I see 48-50C throughout the day, with 15+ Firefox tabs, Foxit PDF viewer, a few MS Word docs open, and some other programs. If I use shoveaffinity then I can get the temps a few degrees lower, between 40-44C, depending on ambient temps.

Something else, if you're going to get a quad core you should strongly consider upgrading your power supply to at least a 90W version. While running 3DMark11 with the 65W version, I would almost always get driver crashes and the test would rarely finish. With my 90W power supply it finishes more often than not. This is with the Intel VGA driver from Windows Update, the one from Intel has not been blessed by 3Dmark yet. I would also get a popup message that says "For full performance, connect a higher capacity AC adapter" from the same program that watches when you press caps lock and such. If I'm having issues with a 35W quad you probably will with a 45W, especially while charging the battery.

Here's the screenshots you requested:

post-8761-14494996001504_thumb.png

post-8761-14494996001717_thumb.png

Let me know if you need anything else!

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Huge thanks, @phillofoc :) I already have thow 90W adapters. Im planning to buy 3612/3632 when the witcher 3 will be released ;)

Today I was given heatsink from Vaio, for free. I plan to use this plates which was collection heat from CPU and GPU. Bigger one goes in @jacobsson three pennies role. Smaller one will go to heatpipe, where it bends.

I have ony one issue, I cant find adhesive compound in Poland :(

post-10292-14494996002604_thumb.jpg

post-10292-14494996003045_thumb.jpg

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@bjorm, what about this?

In Poland people smarter than me, said that they aren;t the same --> ARCTIC SILVER ALUMINA KLEJ TERMOPRZEWODZACY (5g) (3507452909) - Allegro.pl - Wi

but they sounds like the same...

EDIT: UP

ok, they are the same.

what do you think about this kind of solution?

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&type=Accessories&type_sub=Thermal%20Interface&model=AK-TT12-80

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@bjorm I've read very mixed opinions about the thermal tape so I can't say if it's good or bad. What I do know is that thermal adhesive glue works great (uses it myself), especially the Artic Silver one.

I would go for the latter if I were you!

Please report back when you tested =)

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...Something else, if you're going to get a quad core you should strongly consider upgrading your power supply to at least a 90W version. While running 3DMark11 with the 65W version, I would almost always get driver crashes and the test would rarely finish. With my 90W power supply it finishes more often than not.

Hmm that's weird I've no problem running 3DMark11/10.Vant/06 with my 3820QM, using 65W adapter. I use eGPU for graphics but there is still a lot of tests for CPU only, and only crashes I've ever had was due to a weak eGPU power supply.

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@bjorm I've read very mixed opinions about the thermal tape so I can't say if it's good or bad. What I do know is that thermal adhesive glue works great (uses it myself), especially the Artic Silver one.

I would go for the latter if I were you!

Please report back when you tested =)

You are second person who discouraged me to use this tape so I'll go with adhesive paste :)

Hmm that's weird I've no problem running 3DMark11/10.Vant/06 with my 3820QM, using 65W adapter. I use eGPU for graphics but there is still a lot of tests for CPU only, and only crashes I've ever had was due to a weak eGPU power supply.

During using 8460p with 2630QM I was able to run all tests with 65W adapter so I conlude that may not be the main reason of crashes.

In my opinion, If we want to reduce temps we have to do some vents in bottom case (near heatsink and fan). For me it's very strange that HP created 12,5" QuadCore CPU capable laptop without any vents on the bottem. Take a look on the 8460p/8470p bottom. There are a holes covered with mesh, I've been planing to do the same but I cant find spare cover in poland (I don't want to order from ebay cause in poland, sometimes we are able to find this cover or whole cooling system for less than 10$).

I'm going to swap i5-3230M with 3612QM/3632QM but only when I do my heatsink mod (using copper plates (instead of pennys) from VAIO cooling system) and bottom case mod. We need remember that I already have modded fan to lower rpms in first treshold and Im going to solder another one diode to lower rpms wit anothe 400rpms :)

I need to maintain <50C in idle and max 85C with gaming (not Prime test) with QM, If I wouldn't be able to do this, I will be forced to give up with QM.

On nbr Aikimox is going to fit IPS screen, he is very capable (more than me) so maybe he will be able to overcome problems found by me during fitting IPS :)

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You are second person who discouraged me to use this tape so I'll go with adhesive paste :)

During using 8460p with 2630QM I was able to run all tests with 65W adapter so I conlude that may not be the main reason of crashes.

In my opinion, If we want to reduce temps we have to do some vents in bottom case (near heatsink and fan). For me it's very strange that HP created 12,5" QuadCore CPU capable laptop without any vents on the bottem. Take a look on the 8460p/8470p bottom. There are a holes covered with mesh, I've been planing to do the same but I cant find spare cover in poland (I don't want to order from ebay cause in poland, sometimes we are able to find this cover or whole cooling system for less than 10$).

I'm going to swap i5-3230M with 3612QM/3632QM but only when I do my heatsink mod (using copper plates (instead of pennys) from VAIO cooling system) and bottom case mod. We need remember that I already have modded fan to lower rpms in first treshold and Im going to solder another one diode to lower rpms wit anothe 400rpms :)

I need to maintain <50C in idle and max 85C with gaming (not Prime test) with QM, If I wouldn't be able to do this, I will be forced to give up with QM.

On nbr Aikimox is going to fit IPS screen, he is very capable (more than me) so maybe he will be able to overcome problems found by me during fitting IPS :)

When looking at Aikimox results the 2570P seem to do fine with the 2560p-heatsink combined with a 35W Quad (double check this), and of course some HQ thermal paste. Regarding your heatsink mod, make sure to add as much copper on the heatpipe as possible. The heatpipe need more material in order to move all that extra heat from the heatsink itself, my coin-mod suffers a little from this.

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Hmm that's weird I've no problem running 3DMark11/10.Vant/06 with my 3820QM, using 65W adapter. I use eGPU for graphics but there is still a lot of tests for CPU only, and only crashes I've ever had was due to a weak eGPU power supply.

I'm not sure what it is, maybe it's just with my system but I can run the 3DMark13 on either power adapter without issue, but the ancient greek looking physics test in 3DMark11 will almost always crash. If I'm using the 90W power adapter, it will usually work, but on 65W it's only worked a handful of times. Other than that I've never had issues with any other programs.

I usually see between 85-87C max temps when I actually play games. I've seen 89C for a few seconds in Prime95 but then it settles down to 86-87. Using HWInfo, each core sits at 2.8Ghz until reaching 88C, then throttles down to 2.7Ghz until 86C, afterwards back to 2.8Ghz. After 20 minutes it settled down to 86C. This is all while using the dock (I think that someone was asking about this earlier) and 90W power supply.

@bjorm, this laptop was never intended (by the manufacturer) to have a quad core, so no vents. There's a few on mine in the front, but nothing on the bottom (maybe to help with the keyboard drain?). Even if you don't game with this laptop, the quad core upgrade was definitely worth the upgrade from the 3360m. VMWare has had the biggest improvement, with the computer feeling generally snappier since the upgrade. For 150 bucks on ebay, you can't really go wrong, especially if you picked up the computer second hand.

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When looking at Aikimox results the 2570P seem to do fine with the 2560p-heatsink combined with a 35W Quad (double check this), and of course some HQ thermal paste. Regarding your heatsink mod, make sure to add as much copper on the heatpipe as possible. The heatpipe need more material in order to move all that extra heat from the heatsink itself, my coin-mod suffers a little from this.

Yes, focus on the heatpipe and you gain the best results. I was gonna wrap it with a sheet of pyrolytic graphite but it's super expensive, so probably just copper instead. Also, if you sand/cut a section on the top of the heatsink to expose a portion of the pipe directly above the CPU, you may then slap a thick 3-4mm sheet of copper on it and further slash the temps. That's my next step after IPS project.

I'm not sure what it is, maybe it's just with my system but I can run the 3DMark13 on either power adapter without issue, but the ancient greek looking physics test in 3DMark11 will almost always crash. If I'm using the 90W power adapter, it will usually work, but on 65W it's only worked a handful of times. Other than that I've never had issues with any other programs.

I usually see between 85-87C max temps when I actually play games. I've seen 89C for a few seconds in Prime95 but then it settles down to 86-87. Using HWInfo, each core sits at 2.8Ghz until reaching 88C, then throttles down to 2.7Ghz until 86C, afterwards back to 2.8Ghz. After 20 minutes it settled down to 86C. This is all while using the dock (I think that someone was asking about this earlier) and 90W power supply.

@bjorm, this laptop was never intended (by the manufacturer) to have a quad core, so no vents. There's a few on mine in the front, but nothing on the bottom (maybe to help with the keyboard drain?). Even if you don't game with this laptop, the quad core upgrade was definitely worth the upgrade from the 3360m. VMWare has had the biggest improvement, with the computer feeling generally snappier since the upgrade. For 150 bucks on ebay, you can't really go wrong, especially if you picked up the computer second hand.

Do you have a eGPU? If not, that might explain the crashes, as your CPU + IGP package goes above 60w when loaded. With the CPU only part loaded it should be fine.

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...Also, if you sand/cut a section on the top of the heatsink to expose a portion of the pipe directly above the CPU, you may then slap a thick 3-4mm sheet of copper on it and further slash the temps...

That is exactly my plan, but instead of just copper I'm gonna add a heatpipe instead.

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@bjorm, this laptop was never intended (by the manufacturer) to have a quad core, so no vents. There's a few on mine in the front, but nothing on the bottom (maybe to help with the keyboard drain?). Even if you don't game with this laptop, the quad core upgrade was definitely worth the upgrade from the 3360m. VMWare has had the biggest improvement, with the computer feeling generally snappier since the upgrade. For 150 bucks on ebay, you can't really go wrong, especially if you picked up the computer second hand.

So why they've been selling it with QM? :) You wrote that 2570p was in docking station, so You have really good temps. Without docking should be lower because docking cover exhaust exit.

That is exactly my plan, but instead of just copper I'm gonna add a heatpipe instead.

Do You mean to cut this part and put bigger and longer one?

post-10292-14494996010696_thumb.jpg

Im going to dismantle this parts and glue them to the top (where jacobsson put pennys) and second plate will go area where heatpipe is bent.

Do You think that's proper way?

post-10292-14494996011275_thumb.jpg

Ok, I need to choose one option. Which one is better in your opinion?

1) two plates covering almost whole area above CPU + added hetpipe on bending area.

post-10292-14494996011815_thumb.jpg

2) two, oryginaly glued heatpipes on the middle of CPU plate + one plate on heatpipe bending area (Im aware that in this dimension on photo there is no option to fit it).

post-10292-14494996012166_thumb.jpg

post-10292-14494996010997_thumb.jpg

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That is exactly my plan, but instead of just copper I'm gonna add a heatpipe instead.

That would be even better but more work and easy to ruin the heatsink, I already destroyed a couple and about to order one more, lol

So why they've been selling it with QM? :) You wrote that 2570p was in docking station, so You have really good temps. Without docking should be lower because docking cover exhaust exit.

Do You mean to cut this part and put bigger and longer one?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8838[/ATTACH]

Im going to dismantle this parts and glue them to the top (where jacobsson put pennys) and second plate will go area where heatpipe is bent.

Do You think that's proper way?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8839[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]8840[/ATTACH]

Ok, I need to choose one option. Which one is better in your opinion?

1) two plates covering almost whole area above CPU + added hetpipe on bending area.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8844[/ATTACH]

2) two, oryginaly glued heatpipes on the middle of CPU plate + one plate on heatpipe bending area (Im aware that in this dimension on photo there is no option to fit it).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8845[/ATTACH]

IMHO, it would be perfect if we could remove the original pipe and replace it with a 8-10mm one but the radiator part can't be easily modded. Now, the problem with putting a second pipe is that you can't efficiently dissipate heat from it. If you glue it to the radiator, like I did initially, it would create a bottleneck there since the radiator is too small for that. So it's either directing the second pipe somewhere else and gluing a lot of copper at its end (would probably work but still requires a lot of work), or expose as much of the original pipe as possible and gluing copper on it, similar to the copper coin mod but with more copper and coverage. There may also be a way of installing a more powerful fan or even an extra (smaller) fan.

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IMHO, it would be perfect if we could remove the original pipe and replace it with a 8-10mm one but the radiator part can't be easily modded. Now, the problem with putting a second pipe is that you can't efficiently dissipate heat from it. If you glue it to the radiator, like I did initially, it would create a bottleneck there since the radiator is too small for that. So it's either directing the second pipe somewhere else and gluing a lot of copper at its end (would probably work but still requires a lot of work), or expose as much of the original pipe as possible and gluing copper on it, similar to the copper coin mod but with more copper and coverage. There may also be a way of installing a more powerful fan or even an extra (smaller) fan.

Thx for answer. I read about your ways of modding heat dissipation but You and I, have different goals. I need to reduce rpms (-> dB) and maintain (or even reduce) temps after this, You need to create real powerhorse! (second fan is completely unacceptable for me) :)

But If you had to choose, what option ( from detailed above) would you choose? :)

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I'd choose option 2. But would sand the top of the HS first so that there's no extra layer between the original and added pipes. Don't sand all of it, just maybe half. Also measure everything first, you might need to sand the top of the radiator too and disassemble the machine when mounting the new heatsink.

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I'd choose option 2. But would sand the top of the HS first so that there's no extra layer between the original and added pipes. Don't sand all of it, just maybe half. Also measure everything first, you might need to sand the top of the radiator too and disassemble the machine when mounting the new heatsink.

Aikimox, I see you are pushing the envelope with the mods to the 2570P. Have you considered:

- unlocking bios flash descriptor to use unlocked i7-quad multipliers. This would allow overlocking of i7-quads with partial (+400Mhz, i7-3720QM+) or fully unlocked (i7-3920XM+) multipliers. The Series-7 FPTW64 allows us to save the full bios image (and presumably write it too). REF: http://forum.techinferno.com/general-notebook-discussions/2091-lets-enable-overclocking-all-6-7-series-laptops.html for tools/discussion/details of how to do this. Press WIN+[left arrow]+[right arrow] during poweron to unlock the flash descriptor to be able to do this. Highly experimental work.

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@Nando4,

Let's start with the first one, unlocking the multipliers! I'll get my hands on a 3840qm in about a week, shipped today. Will also need to order another heatsink. I will follow the guide you linked to save the BIOS but have no experience when it comes to hex editing and stuff, so I'd appreciate some help.

As for mSATA, if that works, would be awesome. Having 3 hard drives in a 12.5" laptop is insane :)

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@Nando4,

Let's start with the first one, unlocking the multipliers! I'll get my hands on a 3840qm in about a week, shipped today. Will also need to order another heatsink. I will follow the guide you linked to save the BIOS but have no experience when it comes to hex editing and stuff, so I'd appreciate some help.

As for mSATA, if that works, would be awesome. Having 3 hard drives in a 12.5" laptop is insane :)

Khenglish, Prema and others are in that thread to lend a hand. I figure those two mods might go hand as both involve bios flashing that can brick the machine. A cheap flashing and recovery mechanism would be to socket the 2570P bios systemboard pads and just swap in/out bios chips as need to flash/boot the system.

2570P gets recognised by Laptopmag

10 Best Business Notebooks Now at Laptopmap lists numerous Thinkpads along with our 12.5" 2570P. 11.6" 2170P and 13" Folio 9470M get mentioned too. Seems they have an eye for quality. Lenovo X230 isn't listed.

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Khenglish, Prema and others are in that thread to lend a hand. I figure those two mods might go hand as both involve bios flashing that can brick the machine. A cheap flashing and recovery mechanism would be to socket the 2570P bios systemboard pads and just swap in/out bios chips as need to flash/boot the system.

2570P gets recognised by Laptopmag

10 Best Business Notebooks Now at Laptopmap lists numerous Thinkpads along with our 12.5" 2570P. 11.6" 2170P and 13" Folio 9470M get mentioned too. Seems they have an eye for quality. Lenovo X230 isn't listed.

Yeah, 2570p is by far the best business machine in the 12-13" category. I used to be a thinkpad fan but not anymore. Even without any additional modding, I'd skip haswell and maybe broadwell without any regrets. But if we can unlock the cpu, add a msata support and upgrade the screen - this thing can last for a few solid years.

Alright, I'll dig myself in the BIOS thread and see what can be done.Thanks for your help!

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Do you have a eGPU? If not, that might explain the crashes, as your CPU + IGP package goes above 60w when loaded. With the CPU only part loaded it should be fine.

No eGPU here (yet), probably why I was having the issue. 65W has been fine otherwise. According to your quote you're running Server 2012 Datacenter on your laptop, are you doing this for any particular reason?

So why they've been selling it with QM? :) You wrote that 2570p was in docking station, so You have really good temps. Without docking should be lower because docking cover exhaust exit.

Not in the US at least.... Not that it matters, dropping in a QM takes 5 minutes. I do see a few of QM-equipped 2570p floating around eBay from someone who mods laptops. The dock is great if you move around a lot. I've seen them on eBay for $20, right now there's a new one for $45 shipped within the US. I know it probably doesn't help you right now, but there's no reason to pay $200 for a glorified USB 2.0 and 3.0 hub if you can help it.

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Here are results.

post-10292-14494996013912_thumb.jpg

I soldered second diode and I got:

255 = 0

200 = 2363

128 = 2363

120 = 2363

110 = 2386

100 = 2457

90 = 2761

85 = 2891

80 = 3110

75 = 3276

70 = 3510

65 = 3723

60 = 4096

55 = 4551

50 = 5015

45 = 5228

40 = 5228

25 = 5228

0 = 5228

nice! but there is something strange. few days ago I noticed strange sound from fan. With constant fan lowfrequencies noise there is something else, like some electric squek. I didn't hear it after first diode soldering. After soldering second diode there is still this strange sound. I started to checkin source of it, by listening to fan with bottom cover and without it. When there was no cover, sound dissapeared. So I concluded that fan moves some his vibrations to cover, because of diode between fan and cover plate. I tried today to solder additional wire to fit two diodes behind the fan, to avoid stick between fan and plate. Even after fitting a diodes between fan and SSD case, strange sound appears after bottom case is in its place. Its extremely weird. I cant find where is the reason of it. I was wondering if it is strange caused by currents but its impossible cause this sounds appears only when plate is closed. I don't have idea to overcome it.

Its minor problem cause it's regnosible only when there is no ambient sounds, so only at night.

After diodes mode I glued my heatsink. I decided to use option 1 and final is like this:

post-10292-14494996013489_thumb.jpg

Im not sure if there is any bigger improvement but I got maximum 69C in 3dm11. Without modded heatsink there was 75C. Maybe thermal paste is not ready(?), I used Zalman STG-2. But maybe 6C is not bad, is it? :)

For now, I've been usng laptop for 40minutes with completely turned off fan and I have something like this.

post-10292-144949960143_thumb.png

Another case, during writing this post, I got almost full battery, and suddenly I was given message there is only 7% left, when I plugged laptop to adapter, I saw 69% left. Could it be caused by fan modes?

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Im not sure if there is any bigger improvement but I got maximum 69C in 3dm11. Without modded heatsink there was 75C. Maybe thermal paste is not ready(?), I used Zalman STG-2. But maybe 6C is not bad, is it? :)

...

Another case, during writing this post, I got almost full battery, and suddenly I was given message there is only 7% left, when I plugged laptop to adapter, I saw 69% left. Could it be caused by fan modes?

I've seen 5C when going from a thermal pad to Arctic Silver, so you may be in that boat. You could see reduced temps in the future, I know that arctic silver needs up to 200 hours to fully set. I tried looking for instructions at Zalman's site for your paste but I couldn't find anything useful. For the battery issue, I had that about 2 weeks ago. Fixed it with a system restart and haven't had issues since.

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No eGPU here (yet), probably why I was having the issue. 65W has been fine otherwise. According to your quote you're running Server 2012 Datacenter on your laptop, are you doing this for any particular reason?

I work in IT Ops and do quite a bit of virtualization and networking. It's very convenient to have all my VM's with me on the go for quick access, instead of RDPing to the datacenter.

Here are results.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8855[/ATTACH]

I soldered second diode and I got:

255 = 0

200 = 2363

128 = 2363

120 = 2363

110 = 2386

100 = 2457

90 = 2761

85 = 2891

80 = 3110

75 = 3276

70 = 3510

65 = 3723

60 = 4096

55 = 4551

50 = 5015

45 = 5228

40 = 5228

25 = 5228

0 = 5228

nice! but there is something strange. few days ago I noticed strange sound from fan. With constant fan lowfrequencies noise there is something else, like some electric squek. I didn't hear it after first diode soldering. After soldering second diode there is still this strange sound. I started to checkin source of it, by listening to fan with bottom cover and without it. When there was no cover, sound dissapeared. So I concluded that fan moves some his vibrations to cover, because of diode between fan and cover plate. I tried today to solder additional wire to fit two diodes behind the fan, to avoid stick between fan and plate. Even after fitting a diodes between fan and SSD case, strange sound appears after bottom case is in its place. Its extremely weird. I cant find where is the reason of it. I was wondering if it is strange caused by currents but its impossible cause this sounds appears only when plate is closed. I don't have idea to overcome it.

Its minor problem cause it's regnosible only when there is no ambient sounds, so only at night.

After diodes mode I glued my heatsink. I decided to use option 1 and final is like this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8854[/ATTACH]

Im not sure if there is any bigger improvement but I got maximum 69C in 3dm11. Without modded heatsink there was 75C. Maybe thermal paste is not ready(?), I used Zalman STG-2. But maybe 6C is not bad, is it? :)

For now, I've been usng laptop for 40minutes with completely turned off fan and I have something like this.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8856[/ATTACH]

Another case, during writing this post, I got almost full battery, and suddenly I was given message there is only 7% left, when I plugged laptop to adapter, I saw 69% left. Could it be caused by fan modes?

Wow, good job! So you cut out part of the radiator to mount the second pipe so it's sitting flush? Nice! But do you think it's safe to cut the pipe itself? Wouldn't it reduce its efficiency?

As for the battery status report, dunno, maybe that's your fan modding but I fail to see how it's related.

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I've seen 5C when going from a thermal pad to Arctic Silver, so you may be in that boat. You could see reduced temps in the future, I know that arctic silver needs up to 200 hours to fully set. I tried looking for instructions at Zalman's site for your paste but I couldn't find anything useful. For the battery issue, I had that about 2 weeks ago. Fixed it with a system restart and haven't had issues since.

You're probably right cause I haven't had this behavior since this one accident.

Wow, good job! So you cut out part of the radiator to mount the second pipe so it's sitting flash? Nice! But do you think it's safe to cut the pipe itself? Wouldn't it reduce it's efficiency?

As for the battery status report, dunno, maybe that's your fan modding but I fail to see how it's related.

No no, I just put a second, short heatpipe on the top of original one (I didn't decide to put another one on the bottom), so there is original one and new one doesn't enter the radiator.

I'm really frustrated because of this transfer of vibrations. There is strict connection between this noise and bottom plate. Sound appeaes only when plate is set up on its place but I cant find what trasfer this vibration and why one solid plate makes this sound!?

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