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I got a brand new 3840qm OEM (for a good price), sadly not a very efficient one (only x33, veeeery sad face here).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]13076[/ATTACH]

Bummer. An OEM too. At x33, you miss 300Mhz of the 3.6Ghz/4-core max specced performance due to TDP throttling.

Could you make sure you have the iGPU control panel set to 'maximum battery' and test and note the TDP versus multipliers like shown at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/6958-haswell-step-backwards-ivy-bridge-i-have-some-shocking-tdp-results.html#post95181 ? Your results would then be the first i7-3840QM OEM ones we have. Your single result continues to highlight that a i7-3610QM, i7-3630QM, i7-3720QM and i7-3740QM/i7-3820QM are the best value CPUs to get.

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Bummer. An OEM too. At x33, you miss 300Mhz of the 3.6Ghz/4-core max specced performance due to TDP throttling.

Could you make sure you have the iGPU control panel set to 'maximum battery' and test and note the TDP versus multipliers like shown at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/6958-haswell-step-backwards-ivy-bridge-i-have-some-shocking-tdp-results.html#post95181 ? Your results would then be the first i7-3840QM OEM ones we have. Your single result continues to highlight that a i7-3610QM, i7-3630QM, i7-3720QM and i7-3740QM/i7-3820QM are the best value CPUs to get.

I will, this week end @Tech Inferno Fan.

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@Tech Inferno Fan as promised (maximum battery),

P.s. I'm able to confirm that eGpu is hotplug in windows 8.1 with UEFI. (tips: https://rufus.akeo.ie)

i7-3840QM OEM

========

x12

VID: 0.9006

TDP: 12.5

x23

VID: 0.9156

TDP: 20.1

x24

VID: 0.9207

TDP: 21.0

x25

VID: 0.9307

TDP: 22.2

x26

VID: 0.9407

TDP: 23.5

x27

VID: 0.9557

TDP: 24.8

x28

VID: 0.9707

TDP: 26.5

x29

VID: 1.0007

TDP: 28.2

x30

VID: 1.0157

TDP: 30.4

x31

VID: 1.0358

TDP: 32.5

x32

VID: 1.0608

TDP: 35.2

x33

VID: 1.0908

TDP: 38.3

x34

FAIL : |

x35

FAIL : (

x36

FAIL : \

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@Tech Inferno Fan as promised (maximum battery),

P.s. I'm able to confirm that eGpu is hotplug in windows 8.1 with UEFI. (tips: https://rufus.akeo.ie)

i7-3840QM OEM

========

x12

VID: 0.9006

TDP: 12.5

x23

VID: 0.9156

TDP: 20.1

x24

VID: 0.9207

TDP: 21.0

x25

VID: 0.9307

TDP: 22.2

x26

VID: 0.9407

TDP: 23.5

x27

VID: 0.9557

TDP: 24.8

x28

VID: 0.9707

TDP: 26.5

x29

VID: 1.0007

TDP: 28.2

x30

VID: 1.0157

TDP: 30.4

x31

VID: 1.0358

TDP: 32.5

x32

VID: 1.0608

TDP: 35.2

x33

VID: 1.0908

TDP: 38.3

x34

FAIL : |

x35

FAIL : (

x36

FAIL : \

Forgive my noobness but what is this all about? Clock multipliers in attempt to OC the i7 3840QM?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

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Forgive my noobness but what is this all about? Clock multipliers in attempt to OC the i7 3840QM?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Why Overclock? 3840QM is x36 capable.

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From the mega table, you can infer that no two CPU chips are built/perform the same way. This is a standardized test used for benchmarking and comparision of CPUs purchased.

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From the mega table, you can infer that no two CPU chips are built/perform the same way. This is a standardized test used for benchmarking and comparision of CPUs purchased.

Ah alright thanks this was the answer I was waiting for. So it seems that the CPU tested is not X36 capable? Perhaps an RMA or exhange of CPU will be possible?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

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Ah alright thanks this was the answer I was waiting for. So it seems that the CPU tested is not X36 capable? Perhaps an RMA or exhange of CPU will be possible?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

i7-3840QM is x36 capable during the Throttlemark TS-bench 4-core/8-thread test, but only if the TDP is extended. As the 2570P locks the TDP to 45W it means the full CPU capability is never realized. We can see this when evaluating the results at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/6958-haswell-step-backwards-ivy-bridge-i-have-some-shocking-tdp-results.html#post95181 . It means then that the best value for money CPUs to get are i7-3630QM, i7-3720QM, i7-3740QM/i7-3820QM. No point in paying a premium for a i7-3840QM if it's going to perform at i7-3740QM/i7-3820QM levels or worse still.

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i7-3840QM is x36 capable during the Throttlemark TS-bench 4-core/8-thread test, but only if the TDP is extended. As the 2570P locks the TDP to 45W it means the full CPU capability is never realized. We can see this when evaluating the results at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/6958-haswell-step-backwards-ivy-bridge-i-have-some-shocking-tdp-results.html#post95181 . It means then that the best value for money CPUs to get are i7-3630QM, i7-3720QM, i7-3740QM/i7-3820QM. No point in paying a premium for a i7-3840QM if it's going to perform at i7-3740QM/i7-3820QM levels or worse still.

@Tech Inferno Fan

This for me is an eye opener, a shocker even! I was planning to purchase an amazing 2570p and pop in that i7 3840qm right in! Heck I want to even risk it and see if it would run in my Lenovo G500 which features a removable cpu slot, any Idea if this would be possible in my setup Tech Inferno Fan or it needs to be supported by the BIOS?

(i7-3840QM vs my mobo which can only handle 35W CPUs) Otherwise, highest spec compatible with my laptop is only an i7 3632QM...sorry for being off topic

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To bridge the WWAN pins 23,25,31,33 solder SMT 0ohm resistors on the pads as shown in the image below. Image courtesy of pandaleo.

Hey, did u try the method? - did it work?, any progress on BIOS Support?

greez

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I've just joined the 2570p party and bought one off ebay (although it's taking its sweet time to arrive).

I'm interested in acquiring a 3-cell battery that doesn't protude from the back of the laptop (I do most stuff plugged in but like having it as small/light as possible when moving it from place to place). Also possibly a new 9-cell for when I do want extended battery life. I've had a google and found the usual cheap 6 cell ebay/amazon options, and i've seen the HP new options which cost about what I paid for the laptop.

So, my question is: where do you good folks buy decent 3 or 9 cell batteries for the 2570p?

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Hey, did u try the method? - did it work?, any progress on BIOS Support?

greez

I never progressed further. Bridging the resistors is easily. The hard part is enabling the SATA port. Maybe possible by poking around the UEFI vars like at http://forum.techinferno.com/dell-latitude-vostro-precision/8176-%5Bguide%5D-dell-e6530-cpu-tdp-multi-unlocking.html#post111773 or by cross flashing the 8470W BIOS. Either is risky and imho hardly worth it since the 8470W doesn't get mSATA boot support anyway. I read on 51nb.con that a 8470W can boot mSATA but needs to do it via a primary HDD/SDD boot BCD that points to the mSATA SSD.

I've just joined the 2570p party and bought one off ebay (although it's taking its sweet time to arrive).

I'm interested in acquiring a 3-cell battery that doesn't protude from the back of the laptop (I do most stuff plugged in but like having it as small/light as possible when moving it from place to place). Also possibly a new 9-cell for when I do want extended battery life. I've had a google and found the usual cheap 6 cell ebay/amazon options, and i've seen the HP new options which cost about what I paid for the laptop.

So, my question is: where do you good folks buy decent 3 or 9 cell batteries for the 2570p?

Welcome aboard and congratulations on acquiring a superb notebook.

You can go the China 2560P/2570P clone batteries available on aliexpress or ebay as a cheaper alternative to the HP ones. Problem there is the cells will be substantially worse quality,have lower capacity and the battery itself will diminish in capacity much sooner.

Your system will probably come with a 55Wh or 62Wh 6-cell. I'd advise perusing the battery life and weight reduction tips linked from the opening post. You may be able to pickup some simply strategies to extend your working time with the existing battery at little or no cost.

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Hey, did u try the method? - did it work?, any progress on BIOS Support?

greez

I've soldered mine and the BIOS detects something but halts boot like if you put a non-whitelisted device on the port. I've tried to boot with a usb wifi card and a msata drive (currently in my NUC), and I got the unauthorized device white bios screen. Since then I've added a hs2340 WWAN card that works great, except that I had to extract the GPS drivers using UniExtractor and manually activate the GPS if I want to use it. It won't show up on the HP Connection Manager at the bottom in the dropdown menu. WWAN is okay. I'm not sure if this is due to the soldering of the traces or something else. Doesn't bother me too much as I don't use the GPS often, but I just wished that it worked properly in the first place!

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I've soldered mine and the BIOS detects something but halts boot like if you put a non-whitelisted device on the port. I've tried to boot with a usb wifi card and a msata drive (currently in my NUC), and I got the unauthorized device white bios screen. Since then I've added a hs2340 WWAN card that works great, except that I had to extract the GPS drivers using UniExtractor and manually activate the GPS if I want to use it. It won't show up on the HP Connection Manager at the bottom in the dropdown menu. WWAN is okay. I'm not sure if this is due to the soldering of the traces or something else. Doesn't bother me too much as I don't use the GPS often, but I just wished that it worked properly in the first place!

I believe the issue there was that both your WWAN and mSATA have USB interfaces on them and so flag the USB whitelisting.

If you cellophane tape pins 36+38 on your mSATA drive, do you still get the BIOS unauthorized boot message? I predict not after which anybody interested could investigate how to enable that port so mSATA can be used. Maybe there are remnants in the BIOS that does that already. If so, just need to direct your boot HDD's BCD to the mSATA drive to boot and run the system off the mSATA SSD.

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Welcome aboard and congratulations on acquiring a superb notebook.

You can go the China 2560P/2570P clone batteries available on aliexpress or ebay as a cheaper alternative to the HP ones. Problem there is the cells will be substantially worse quality,have lower capacity and the battery itself will diminish in capacity much sooner.

Your system will probably come with a 55Wh or 62Wh 6-cell. I'd advise perusing the battery life and weight reduction tips linked from the opening post. You may be able to pickup some simply strategies to extend your working time with the existing battery at little or no cost.

Thanks, yeah it looks like it comes with a 6-cell. Has anyone tried replacing the cells in a HP battery with something like a panasonic NCR18650B (3400mah)? I've seen this done for lenovo thinkpad batteries (and considered doing it myself before coming across the 2570p). This could result in a 3 cell 37.74Wh, 6cell 75.48, or 9 cell 113.22Wh battery...

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Thanks, yeah it looks like it comes with a 6-cell. Has anyone tried replacing the cells in a HP battery with something like a panasonic NCR18650B (3400mah)? I've seen this done for lenovo thinkpad batteries (and considered doing it myself before coming across the 2570p). This could result in a 3 cell 37.74Wh, 6cell 75.48, or 9 cell 113.22Wh battery...

Haven't seen a Elitebook owner do this as yet.

Though have been curious about extending capacity in this way since seeing battery repacker services is the US mentioned as doing this.

You may be interested in Battery test-review 18650 summary if wanting to to do this.

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Hi guys. Can someone explain why it is cheaper to pull a 2Tb Samsung Spinpoint M9T from a Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive than to buy it without the casing? It's 9.5mm too, so it'll fit in the secondary HDD Bay.

Good find there. Would just be a supply and demand thing. USB 3.0 enclosure demand being higher than that for 2.5" 2TB harddisks, hence the lower price.

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It's a warranty issue. HDD in enclosure has only 1-year warranty, while 'naked' 2.5" SATA gets 2-year.

Personally, I grabbed 'naked' M9T as it's cheaper here than boxed one. :)

Got it new for $109

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Thanks, yeah it looks like it comes with a 6-cell. Has anyone tried replacing the cells in a HP battery with something like a panasonic NCR18650B (3400mah)? I've seen this done for lenovo thinkpad batteries (and considered doing it myself before coming across the 2570p). This could result in a 3 cell 37.74Wh, 6cell 75.48, or 9 cell 113.22Wh battery...

Thought of that before as well. Problem is the casing, once opened it's quite difficult to put it together once you replace the cells (you have to crack open the glued case). The internal circuit can "get used to" the higher capacity, but you must be VERY careful not to cut out the power, otherwise it's bricked.

For 2560p/2570p not worth the extra hassle. 100Wh battery has 3100mAh Panasonic cells, which makes 113Whr one only marginally "better".

Better solution is to build external battery pack and connect it through DC line.

For lesser HP models with 2200mAh cells, or older IBM/Lenovo laptops with 2700mAh that might show noticeable difference.

Fitting mSATA SSD into 2560p/2570p

post-8842-14494998777263_thumb.jpg

After a bit of brainstorming what to do when 2560p does not support mSATA in its WWAN slot, I've come to at least satisfactory solution - use mSATA to SATA adaptor in primary HDD bay.

This might appear easy and not worth even mentioning it, however after measuring the SATA port, looking for 3.3V rail which is required I didn't find any.

Primary SATA port offers exclusively 5V, which need to be stepped down by non-efficient module to bring us our required 3.3V, and since we're running laptop here, any difference in power consumption make its price.

One of the possibilities here is to power the mSATA through WWAN slot, which however assumes that yours is empty.

Difficulty: Low/Medium

Price: about $10 incl. shipping

Time required: 5-15 minutes

Skills required: basics with soldering iron

Tools required:

Once your microSATA to SATA adaptor arrives, undo two screws on the top and take away the board. The reason why I picked this one is that there's no step-down, it's hardwired exactly according to specification.

Now you need to solder the wire between 3.3V on the mPCIe card and first two contacts on the microSATA to SATA board.

Screw your mSATA drive to microSATA to mSATA adaptor, and put it all together into your Elitebook.

Congrats! Now you're running mSATA drive!

PS: The laptop should lose some weight as well.

PPS: It's possible to run mSATA drive even with WWAN attached, if you solder the wire on first pin with 3.3V rail. However, it's advisable to watch WWAN power requirements, as there's limit 10W on single slot. While Crucial m4 or Samsung PM841/851 will breeze through, Crucial M500 requires at least 5W (I wouldn't recommend that drive, should you consider purchase).

And about consumption?

Crucial m4 in it's mSATA version requires only about 100mW in idle - compared that to 840 EVO, which needs 300mW, m4 in regular size 500mW. Mechanical HDD 1200mW and Crucial m500 1500mW.

So apart from weight loss, you will definitely notice 0.2-1.4W drop when idle.

post-8842-14494998778168_thumb.jpg

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Fitting mSATA SSD into 2560p/2570p

[ATTACH=CONFIG]13172[/ATTACH]

After a bit of brainstorming what to do when 2560p does not support mSATA in its WWAN slot, I've come to at least satisfactory solution - use mSATA to SATA adaptor in primary HDD bay.

This might appear easy and not worth even mentioning it, however after measuring the SATA port, looking for 3.3V rail which is required I didn't find any.

Primary SATA port offers exclusively 5V, which need to be stepped down by non-efficient module to bring us our required 3.3V, and since we're running laptop here, any difference in power consumption make its price.

One of the possibilities here is to power the mSATA through WWAN slot, which however assumes that yours is empty.

Thank you for the posting. However, I'll point out that this is a redundant exercise. There are many mSATA-to-SATA adapters on ebay which do also include a 3.3V volt regulator. I used a Renice mSATA to SATA II SSD Adapter | My Digital Discount to do some testing a while back here so know it does work. That was in a 2530P's optical bay caddy.

A1K6_130207895214553990YnuVD3T2yk.jpg

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Short answer: NO.

Going through regulator path reduces conversion efficiency, by as much as 50% <- that is to be avoided in this case. Rather than that, this solution uses 3.3V straight from the system board and thus bypasses any conversion process.

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Thank you for the posting. However, I'll point out that this is a redundant exercise. There are many mSATA-to-SATA adapters on ebay which do also include a 3.3V volt regulator. I used a Renice mSATA to SATA II SSD Adapter | My Digital Discount to do some testing a while back here so know it does work. That was in a 2530P's optical bay caddy.

A1K6_130207895214553990YnuVD3T2yk.jpg

I have that exact type I even picked up an extra to keep around. These work great. They worked with my Corsair m550 msata ssd and a 80gb Lite On msata ssd/caching drive

cool :)

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I wonder, would 16:10 (1280x800) screen from 2530p work in 2570p (after cutting the bezel and with 40pin to 30pin adaptor)?

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I wonder, would 16:10 (1280x800) screen from 2530p work in 2570p (after cutting the bezel and with 40pin to 30pin adaptor)?

It may work for sure, though would look out of sorts. I'd be more interested in seeing a successful retrofit of either:

- a Lenovo X220/X230 IPS panel. Something that has been unsuccessfully attempted so far as linked off the first post.

- a 12.5" FHD eDP LCD like found in the HP 820 G1 or Dell E7240 using the displayport and plenty of ingenuity

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