Jump to content
EwinRacing Flash Series Gaming Chairs

Recommended Posts

post-28261-14494998323478_thumb.jpg

Still, if your system doesn't have warranty then setting those details is mostly a cosmetic thing

When it powers on it displays a message about machine not state, and Product information not valid, and it waits for ENTER to be pressed. Thankfully, other functionality does not seem to be affected. I tried the WIN+B option, but it does not begin to beep, or do anything else other that the fan spinning fast and the CAPS LOCK led blinking; I left it for about 7 minutes in this state. I have attached the start-up messages

post-28261-14494998322145_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
When it powers on it displays a message about machine not state, and Product information not valid, and it waits for ENTER to be pressed. Thankfully, other functionality does not seem to be affected. I tried the WIN+B option, but it does not begin to beep, or do anything else other that the fan spinning fast and the CAPS LOCK led blinking; I left it for about 7 minutes in this state. I have attached the start-up messages

Right. SO it's more than cosmetic then. Please follow the directions carefully given in my previous post. I no longer have a 2570P to be able to try them myself so that's the best I found by googling around/

Sorry if it has been posted and answered - is it possible to automate setting endpoint and compaction via startup.bat?

After compaction, a pci.bat is generated and automatically added as a call in your startup.bat. Next time you boot and choose the 'automated startup via startup.bat' option, it will replay the same settings as during your last PCI compaction. There are some other menu options that don't get added automatically as they give the option to see how the system responds first. They appear in the last command buffer in the bottom left corner. You hit F3 to add those to the startup.bat if there is a satisfactory outcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I managed to commit it, the key combination was WIN+UP+DOWN and the power button, HOLDING IT FOR at least 2 seconds ( I was not holding it in my first attempts), then follow the instructions, with wndmifit, and then setting MPM back on. Thank you, Tech Inferno Fan!

PS : Now I wish to disable the ME, but I cannot modify it, because it is not uncommitted anymore, and the UUID is not FFFF.... anyway, another experience, faster startup

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Right. SO it's more than cosmetic then. Please follow the directions carefully given in my previous post. I no longer have a 2570P to be able to try them myself so that's the best I found by googling around/

After compaction, a pci.bat is generated and automatically added as a call in your startup.bat. Next time you boot and choose the 'automated startup via startup.bat' option, it will replay the same settings as during your last PCI compaction. There are some other menu options that don't get added automatically as they give the option to see how the system responds first. They appear in the last command buffer in the bottom left corner. You hit F3 to add those to the startup.bat if there is a satisfactory outcome.

Thanks!

This is actually more helpful than just a flat-out code. Now i can play around my own settings.

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks!

This is actually more helpful than just a flat-out code. Now i can play around my own settings.

Yes, the eGPU Setup 1.30 software has a lot of flexibility to customize the startup.bat to your requirements. I'd suggest using the Startup.bat-Edit menuitem to edit it if need to move things around. That screen will give a lot more info in individual commands in that file. Admit having been tempted to rename the software eGPU OS since it's pretty much a standalone eGPU configuring OS :)

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

post-28261-14494998395736_thumb.jpggetting angry, this is the second attempt, after writing a whole article IE crashed and lost all the writing :( EDIT: Third

back: I want to tell about 2 things, one I have tried and other I would like to ask about. I repeat, I have the 8570p and not the 2570p model, but as I cannot find a dedicated thread and community such as this, and I think the differences are unsignificant

and mostly about layout, I will still post here.

One: I tried to replace the keyboard with a backlit one, from 8570w (it's cousin, the "professional" branded elitebook with the "professional" gamma GPU's ( and the cooling system of a smartphone ) ). Firstly, the pinout matched, but the contacts not.

As I read, the keyboard is only a connector matrix, with the controller on the motherboard. So, I tried to match the pinout. Then I thought about dissassemblying them and take the ribbon with the connector "ribbon" (I am sorry, I barely know the terms in my language) and to put them into the backlit keyboard enclosure. So I took them apart, but the ribbon and the other enclosure were impossible to match, and the enclosure (bottom metalic plate) was needed to hold the special keys that have transparent letters, that let white characters glow. So, with this conclusion, I am posting the pictures, and let it be, as I don't know how to make the old ribbon stay attached to the new keys that are not opaque, as the "ribbon" with leds

can easily be attached to any other keyboard, but as log as it's layout does not allow the light to come through, it's pointless.

Two: I have noticed screen flickering, old CRT style (60, 75 Hz style), firstly on videocamera, then it began to tire me. First I tried to change the refresh rate, and found a tool to do it, called Custom Resolution Utility, by ToastyX. After some weeks of thweaking the setting, searching for the screen technical documentation, I found by many trials and errors a certain refresh frequency that was the most non tireding for me. But still flickering. And I wondered why, and found out about the "new WLED backlit system" which uses a PWM to dim the display, meaning it emits pulses when in non full brightness, eg at 60% the leds are lit 60% and turned off 40% of a period. And this period can be from 1/70 of a second, to 1/400 (100 Hertz of led strobe, with sharp passings. I would say these guys are very stupid or did a very stupid thing, but I am afraid it is more than that. back ) So, on the forums there seem to be 2 options, as I can tell: one to increase the frequency to about 700Hz - 1KHz, to make it unperceptible, or to use direct current, and this is where I got lost, as do not know electronics : one is to use a driver circuit (ICC or something) other said to have cutted the brightness control pin, and use a resistor to decrease the voltage (or some diodes to decrease the current, I am sorry, it surpasses me). But the thing is that I would like it not to flicker, the led backlighting to be continuous, so this is why I am posting here, as this problem affects almost ALL LED LCDs ( some don't seem to have this problem, but I do not know why, as the technology behind it is damaging by it's nature). Please forgive my ramblings, I tried to be on topic, x570p lounge, more to the technical part

PS: I am sorry about the keyboard pictures, as they are beyond accepted resolution, and momentary I do not have the editing software available. Waiting for any response, thank you

post-28261-14494998352662_thumb.jpg

post-28261-14494998389442_thumb.jpg

post-28261-14494998390824_thumb.jpg

post-28261-14494998392065_thumb.jpg

post-28261-14494998393297_thumb.jpg

post-28261-14494998394501_thumb.jpg

post-28261-14494998396981_thumb.jpg

post-28261-14494998398216_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Just want to share some recent experiences I had with my 2570p and EXP GDC V6.

I recently bought a cheap Asus GTS 450 with GF116 core (lucky me) and so I decided to test installing Windows 8.1 in UEFI mode and I can confirm what was said earlier. In this mode there is no need for setup 1.30 but when I replaced the GTS 450 with my GTX 750Ti I had to make the DSDT override to make it work but that was it, so no need to use setup 1.30 either. Anyway setup 1.3 is still very useful for battery tweaks and other systems.

Another thing I noticed is that I was able to install my modded 344.11 verde drivers without having to disable driver signing or enable test mode (I think I had to do it in the past).

I hope this findings are useful and help someone save time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys I need some help with newbie questions.

1) Can I upgrade a 2560p with a 2570P motherboard and its matching ivy processor? I mean are both motherboard physically identical?

2) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3632QM (35W) I consider the heat should not be an issue; right?

3) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3630QM (45W) do I have to replace the heat-sink? is any company selling already modded ones?

4) Is there any way I can upgrade a 2560p with an i7-3632QM? I understand the 2560p handles ivy but it needs a special bios; anyway to install a 2570p bios into a 2560p?

5) Can I instal an mSata Samsumg EVO SSD disk on the WWLAN port?

Thanks for your time guys; this thread is awesome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1) Can I upgrade a 2560p with a 2570P motherboard and its matching ivy processor? I mean are both motherboard physically identical?

As far as I can tell, a 2570P systemboard has same size and layout to a 2560P systemboard. They should be interchangeable. I say should because I've never fit one to be 100% sure. They can be purchased on Aliexpress for a good price. Just be careful sometimes those vendors sell slightly faulty or beta boards.

2) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3632QM (35W) I consider the heat should not be an issue; right?

3) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3630QM (45W) do I have to replace the heat-sink? is any company selling already modded ones?

CPU upgrades, how to limit a 45W CPU to run at ~35W temps and heatsink mods are linked off the opening post of this thread.

4) Is there any way I can upgrade a 2560p with an i7-3632QM? I understand the 2560p handles ivy but it needs a special bios; anyway to install a 2570p bios into a 2560p?

2560P is a Series-6 system that can only accomodate a 2nd generation processor. 2570P is a Series-7 system that can accomodate either a 2nd or 3rd generation processor.

5) Can I instal an mSata Samsumg EVO SSD disk on the WWLAN port?

No. The WLAN port is wired for PCIe, not SATA. There is no mSATA port on 2560P or 2570P. Best way of doing a SSD+HDD arrangement is to swap out the optical drive for a caddy with your HDD and place SSD in the primary drive bay. If you were exceptionally crafty you could tap the eSATA port internally to host a mSATA SSD.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Nando4

Thanks for your helpful answer.

I never used ThrottleStop before I'm trying to throttle down an i7-3630QM to 35W levels

can you provide a bullet point list of steps for doing this with ThrottleStop?

It seems the multiplier should be set to x32 right?

is the multiplier the only variable I have to trim?

do I also have to touch the VID?

BTW when the change is made where is it saved? I do not think I have to do the change every time I power up the PC.

Thanks for your help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Nando4

Thanks for your helpful answer.

I never used ThrottleStop before I'm trying to throttle down an i7-3630QM to 35W levels

can you provide a bullet point list of steps for doing this with ThrottleStop?

It seems the multiplier should be set to x32 right?

is the multiplier the only variable I have to trim?

do I also have to touch the VID?

BTW when the change is made where is it saved? I do not think I have to do the change every time I power up the PC.

Thanks for your help.

i7-3630QM has x32 max 4-core multi. i7-3632QM has a x29 max 4-core multi. You'd monitor the TDP/temps and adjust down the highest multi to whatever your system can handle. Can see a comparison of their TDP at TS-bench load at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/6958-haswell-step-backwards-ivy-bridge-i-have-some-shocking-tdp-results.html#post95181 .

You can Throttlestop is very intuitive to use. Yes, you can save and apply your settings on every boot. Specific Throttlestop questions are best directed at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/23-throttlestop-guide.html#post39 .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just sold off my 2570p :((

sold it for about 10% in return... I got a ThinkPad T430 with everything except webcam and fingerprint..

3320m / 8+4GB ddr3 1600 / 500gb 7200rpm, NO SSD TO INCREASE BATTERY LIFE / 9-cell 98wh battery locked at 87% max charge. It works for about 7.8 hours. stable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello to all. New here and just bought an almost new 2570p with 16gb and i5. Managed to swap the i5 with a quad 35watt cpu. : ) of course excited....and now extremely concerned - ... for everyone who is using a quad cpu---> what AC wattage power supply do you use? (I used the 65 watt charger and its heating up ..wayyyy high)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hello to all. New here and just bought an almost new 2570p with 16gb and i5. Managed to swap the i5 with a quad 35watt cpu. : ) of course excited....and now extremely concerned - ... for everyone who is using a quad cpu---> what AC wattage power supply do you use? (I used the 65 watt charger and its heating up ..wayyyy high)

Welcome to the club! I have a 3632QM, and typically use a 65W charger. Sometimes I use my 90w when I travel, the only difference is that the battery charges a little faster. This was discussed about a year ago, and IIRC the consensus was 65W is fine for even the 45W cpus.

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Welcome to the club! I have a 3632QM, and typically use a 65W charger. Sometimes I use my 90w when I travel, the only difference is that the battery charges a little faster. This was discussed about a year ago, and IIRC the consensus was 65W is fine for even the 45W cpus.

Thanks a lot... Sigh! : )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to have you on board! For the information of everybody, there's a 3840QM being sold for $249!

Limited supply only. Check the link out here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Good to have you on board! For the information of everybody, there's a 3840QM being sold for $249!

Limited supply only. Check the link out here.

It is a QS though, so may be not as reliable as OEM new.

On another note, I recently upgraded my 2570p to a i7-3630qm (was running the stock i5-3320m previously) and it's been working great. Only issue is that it seems to be running a bit hot. Idle temps are 55C and it often jumps up to 70C when doing multimedia applications like watching youtube videos. Gaming it goes up to 80-85C sometimes (although I haven't had that much time to play with it yet). Are these temperatures normal? They seem a bit high to me, I used to get 50C idle and 60C ish for multimedia with the i5-3320m. Also, would adding a copper shim help reduce the temperatures?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm referencing the fact that this eBay price is still WAY cheaper than the same 3840QM(QCF1) sold in Aliexpress.

The seller made it clear that though the price matches that of a 3740QM QCF3 in Aliexpress, it's in fact a 3840QM QCF1. Probably a clearance sale of some sort.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I suppose that few people tried Intel 7260 AC in their 2570p. Did anyone had been able to activate Bluetooth?

I have successfully swapped and launched 7260 AC with my previous 6205 N. It was taken from Gigabyte GA-H97N-WIFI mITX deskop motherboard which was marketted as having WiFi-AC/Bluetooth combo, but after unplugging internal BT card, I lost BT functionality. There is not a single Bluetooth device showing in device manager in Windows 8.1. Is this normal? I've read somewhere, that Bluetooth needs USB2.0 wiring in PCI-E slot. Is that correct? Is this a reason for Bluetooth part not working in 7260-AC?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive now been using this little machine for a month and i must say that its super awesome. I've been using it as a second machine next to my m6600 and as a traveling companion its very nice. Regardless of "bulkiness" compared to its competition I dont have any issues with it - seeing as I was lugging my m6600 around for a year and a half this seems like seems like feather while packing quite a punch.

I did get around and test yoga2 and few of those netbooks/ultrabooks and its performance and serviceability let me down, not to mention build quality. Once you try proper business class notebooks nothing else is good enough i guess. I did test MBA 13" and i really dont see what all the fuss about is about super thin notebooks and when i pop up all the programs i use it got quite hot and not really lap friendly.

I know i wont thinker around notebooks everyday, but seeing how my first notebook lasted me 8 years (nc8430) and i got used to easy cleaning, disk swapping anything harder to open and maintain is a dumb investment for me.

So as I'm writing all this down I'm more and more thinking to keep both notebooks. M6600 at home as powerhouse and this little gem as my travelling companion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello, Everyone!

At the moment I have two disks in my configuration: 256GB SSD + 500GB HDD, as shown below:

post-23422-14494998489505_thumb.png

I would like to know: did someone manage to move "HP_Recovery" and "HP_Tools" partitions to the HDD drive?

And if this is possible anyways?

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I suppose that few people tried Intel 7260 AC in their 2570p. Did anyone had been able to activate Bluetooth?

I have successfully swapped and launched 7260 AC with my previous 6205 N. It was taken from Gigabyte GA-H97N-WIFI mITX deskop motherboard which was marketted as having WiFi-AC/Bluetooth combo, but after unplugging internal BT card, I lost BT functionality. There is not a single Bluetooth device showing in device manager in Windows 8.1. Is this normal? I've read somewhere, that Bluetooth needs USB2.0 wiring in PCI-E slot. Is that correct? Is this a reason for Bluetooth part not working in 7260-AC?

I have a 7260 AC in my laptop, and no bluetooth shows up because the USB lines aren't wired. In the wifi slot on the 2570p, the lines are disabled msata instead of usb. No idea why the cards are designed with the BT side and wifi not on the PCI-e side, probably because pci can only support one device on the 1x lane. Most other combo cards from other companies function in the same way. USB devices are different, lots of combo devices have a built-in hub with everything wired to that.

All of my computers/laptops have a 7260 ac in them (because I put them there). In my NUC and an Acer laptop, both the BT and Wifi sides show. In my Shuttle PC and 2570p, only the wifi side shows.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought so, thank you for your answer @phillofoc.

I should mention, that I didn't notice any change in power consumption. It can be as little as 100-200mW between 6205 and 7260, but I cannot measure it properly because usage varies. My system with Crucial MX100 256GB SSD and i5-3320M idles at ~5,5W without ASPM optimizations at 30% screen brightness either with 6205 or 7260.

Another thing I noticed: turning wireless off by switch under the screen makes light go out instead of turning orange as it did with 6205. Strange, but I think I can live with that :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there,

I'm about to purchase 2560p and would like to fit 2570p motherboard. Found some old threads on NBR that it should be possible, but nobody verified it. So is it possible?

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Tech Inferno Fan
      We've had a stack of recurring questions from with problems getting a mPCIe eGPU working. This includes GPU-Z not reporting no clock details, error 10/43 or even not being detected at all. Overall it's more troublesome getting mPCIe working than say expresscard or Thunderbolt.
       
      Here's some common problems and some troubleshooting steps to correct them.
       
      Getting a black bootup screen, resolving error 10/43 or ACPI_BIOS_ERROR win bootup messages
       
      Here the BIOS doesn't know what to do when it sees an eGPU. So the solution is to not let the BIOS see it. Do that by setting the delays on the eGPU adapter (CTD/PTD - EXP GDC or CLKRUN/PERST# on PE4L/PE4C). Boot with eGPU adapter in the wifi slot into Setup 1.30 or Windows. Is the eGPU detected?
       
      I'll add that should error 43 continue AND you have a NVidia dGPU as well as NVidia eGPU then it's likely because of having the mobile NVidia and desktop NVidia drivers loaded simultaneously. Proceed to uninstall ALL your NVidia drivers, use "DDU" to clean NVidia registry entries and do a 'clean' install of the latest NVidia desktop driver.
       
      mPCIe port that hosted the wifi card disappears when connecting an eGPU in it's place
       
      Use the Setup1.30 PCIe Ports->enable to enable the missing port.
       
      eGPU does not get detected
       
      Overcome mPCIe whitelisting by booting with the wifi card and then hotswapping in the eGPU. That way the BIOS will enable the mPCIe port to work.
       
      1. Boot with wifi card into Windows, sleep system, swap wifi card for mPCIe eGPU adapter and ensure eGPU is powered on, resume system. Do a device manager scan in Windows. Is the eGPU detected?
       
      2. Boot with wifi card into Setup 1.30 *carefully* hotplug the eGPU adapter in place of wifi card. Hit F5 to rescan the PCIe bus. Is the eGPU detected?
       
      If this enables detection then avoid this tedious hotswapping by seeking a unwhitelisted modified BIOS for your system OR test the Setup 1.30's PCI ports->undo_whitesting feature.
       
      eGPU still not detected - set the PSU to be permanently on
       
      The latest EXP GDC and BPlus eGPU adapters try to manage the PSU to only power on after they detect a signal. This can cause a race condition where the eGPU isn't ready to go when the CLKRUN signal is asserted.
       
      Avoid this by jumpering the PSU so it's permanently on rather than being managed. Depending on the PSU you are using refer to the following doco on how to do that:
       
      http://forum.techinferno.com/enclosures-adapters/8441-%5Bguide%5D-switching-atx-psu-using-paperclip-trick-swex.html
      http://forum.techinferno.com/enclosures-adapters/9426-220w-dell-da-2-ac-adapter-discussion.html
       
      eGPU still not detected - a non-standard mPCIe implementation by your vendor?
       
      PERST# mPCIe pin 22 may need to be isolated due to a non-standard implementation by your notebook vendor: http://forum.techinferno.com/enclosures-adapters/10812-pe4x-series-understanding-clkreq-perst-delay.html#post142689
       
      eGPU still not detected - faulty hardware?
       
      If you still don't get detection then test the video card and eGPU adapter in another machine to confirm neither is faulty.
       
      NVidia driver stops responding
       
      EXP GDC, PE4H 2.4 and PE4L 1.5 all use a socketted cable and therefore are not true Gen2 compatible device. This error indicates there was transmissions errors.
       
      The solution is either to get a better Gen2-compliant eGPU adapter such as PE4C V3.0 or PE4L 2.1b (both with soldered cable), or downgrade your link from Gen2 to Gen1 using BIOS options or Setup 1.30
       
      Other troubleshooting help resources?
       
      See DIY eGPU Troubleshooting FAQ.
       
    • By ReverseEffect
      3dMark11 Performance Preset Benchmark: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/11262792
       
      Required items:
      1.) Lenovo u310 (I have a Core i3 - Ivy Bridge, 8GB RAM)
      2.) 65CN99WW unwhitelisted.
      3.) eGPU (I used a EVGA GTX 750 Ti from another computer I had).
      4.) EXP GDC mPCIe Edition adapter (got from eBay - banggood seller).
      5.) ATX power supply (I used a 600W PSU from another computer I had).
      6.) USB wireless.
      7.) External monitor, keyboard, and mouse.
       
      Steps:
      1.) Obtain and install a unwhitelisted BIOS. If you are unable to obtain a unwhitelist BIOS, I think it might be possible to bypass it with Tech Inferno Fan's Setup 1.x (may need confirmation as I haven't used it myself yet.)
      2.) Shutdown computer and remove all USB devices, ethernet cables, power cables, card reader cards.
      3.) Remove mPCIe wireless card and detach antennas.
       
       
      4.) Attach EXP GDC external mPCIe cable to the former wireless slot and screw down.
       
       
      5.) Attach HDMI end of the mPCIe cable adapter to the EXP GDC device.
       
       
      6.) Attach graphics card to the EXP GDC device (I moved my laptop off the desk and onto the side shelf to make room on the desk for the monitor/keyboard/mouse).
       
       
      7.) Using the power cable adapters that came with the EXP GDC device, I hooked in my ATX power supply's 20 pin and CPU 4 pin cables. Then hooked the other end (8 pin) into the EXP GDC device. My EVGA 750 Ti also required that I use an additional PCIe power cable (6 pin) in the top of the card.
       
       
       
       
       
      8.) Then I attached my misc devices (HDMI monitor, USB keyboard/mouse/wireless adapter), and hooked in my PSU and powered it on (below is image of final product, also moved HDMI cable out of the way).
       

       
      9.) Power on your computer and let it install the standard VGA drivers and then install your drivers (I didn't have to go in the BIOS for any graphics settings, which it doesn't have anyways, nor did I have to disable iGPU in Device Manager before the card was added).
       
      Extra Info:
      I found that most games will play on med settings with about 45 FPS with this particular card.
      BDO: Upscale on - Anti Aliasing on - SSAO off - med settings.
      Skyrim: Med-High settings.
      Fallout 4: Med settings.
       
      (EDIT 5/19/2016) > Images added.
       
    • By TheLoser1124
      Hello, A couple of days ago I got a new GPU but when I installed it into my computer I was unable to use it but now I know why. When checking the device manger I went into the events tab of my GPU when I went to view all events, I noticed an error it said " event 411 kernel PnP " and It also said Problem Status: 0xC01E0438. I believe this is why my GPU hasn't been working on my PC. If you know how to fix this problem or have info on how to fix this problem that would be greatly appreciated. I'm also using a EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660.
    • By TheLoser1124
      I'm having a problem where my PC is saying my eGPU is not usable, its detected in the Device Manager and it doesn't have the yellow triangle next to it. I cant use it games and the Nvidia Control Panel doesn't recognize it either. I'm using a EVGA NVIDIA Geforce GTX 1660. I'm using windows 10 and I tried DDU and reinstalling them and now I cant access the nvidia control panel. The GPU is not recognize on any other apps and I went on *********** and was unable to find my answer, Any help on how to fix this problem would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Radstark
      Title sums it up.
       
      TL;DR: we have a Clevo that runs a desktop CPU, one with those huge 82 Wh batteries. We remove the GPU and let it use the CPU's integrated graphics. How much time for the battery to go from 100 to 0? Is it comparable to an ultrabook's?
       
      I'm theorizing a mobile set with a static eGPU and an upgradable CPU. Given a hypothetical user that needs fast processing on the go and long battery life while retaining very high degrees of mobility, but at home wants a powerful machine to run most games, I guess that would be their best bet. It would surely be more convenient to keep everything in the same disk. And even though the thing would be quite heavy to carry around, changing CPU would be more cost-efficient than changing an entire laptop. (Not sure if I'm right here, and also I'm not sure whether the motherboard in a Clevo would be replaceable when the new CPU needs a different socket, which is another reason why I'm asking here.)
       
      If my above guesses aren't correct, then an ultrabook with Thunderbolt and without a dedicated GPU would be a better choice. If they are, then we would be carrying more weight in exchange of a more cost-efficient setup, which I think would be a fair tradeoff.
       
      Also I am aware of the heating problems that these laptops suffer from, at least compared to a desktop setup. Would they be solved by moving the GPU out of the chassis, and instead plugging it with an eGPU dock via Thunderbolt port?
       
      What do you think? Is it doable? If not, why?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.