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Hi guya!

Have you ever used USB3 devices such as hdd etc?

I mostly get the message "this device can perform faster..." and file transfers are really slow (USB2-speeds).

This is regardless if connect a USB2 or 3 port.

Also which drivers are you using?

Thanks!

I was thinking about using USB 3.0 enclosure for my 500GB HDD, then read some horror stories about Intel's USB 3.0 not working as expected.

So I bought a AU$6 eSATAp cable instead Esatap Power Over Esata TO Sata 22 PIN Adapter Cable FOR 2 5" 3 5" HDD 12V 5V | eBay since we have a powered eSATA/USB 3.0 port. I know this thing will allow full SATA-II speed AND I'll be able to boot Windows from my HDD, something that USB 3.0 cannot do. Power shouldn't be a problem either. Our eSATAp port is USB 3.0 so has 5V@900mA= 4.5W. My HDD says it's [email protected] = 5.5W, peak of which is usually during spinup so might not be enough. Will have to wait for it to arrive from China to see if it works or not.

Doesn't answer your USB 3.0 query but gives another inexpensive option if thinking of using a 2.5" SATA SSD/HDD externally with your 2570P.

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Just got myself a 2570P instead of my 2560P with 3740QM.

CPU seems to be way cooler compared to a 2740QM in the older model. I'm able to stay in 33x

the whole TS 1024M test at ~80C and I just installed it with AS3 (has cure time).

post-19480-144949971019_thumb.png

Only thing I miss is the closing hooks and button. I don't really like the magnets solution.

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Just got myself a 2570P instead of my 2560P with 3740QM.

CPU seems to be way cooler compared to a 2740QM in the older model. I'm able to stay in 33x....

Really good temps, even though it's x33!

What duration do you have for the test?

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Really good temps, even though it's x33!

What duration do you have for the test?

Its 8 threads @ 277.875

16 threads @ 276.730.

The step up is like this:

33% - first time a core breaks 70C

66% - first time a core breaks 78C

88% - first time a core breaks 80C

and end temps:

post-19480-14494997103103_thumb.png

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Hello fellow 2570P modders!

I'm now working on a heatsink mod (and guide) for our system with the aim for improved heat dissipation (unlike earlier coin mod that only improved heat absorption), the goal with the mod is also to only work on the heatsink/radiator and keep the 2570/2560p intact.

I want to do something similar to what @Aikimox have attempted earlier, adding a second 'sandwiched' heatpipe like this:

(photo by Aikimox)

2mdgi1v.jpg

My aim is to cut out a slot in the radiator and trim down the top of the heatsink like this (so the heatpipe can be inserted and therefore fit the mint system):

nf0gsg.png

So to my question:

What is the best method to cut the slot in the radiator?

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@jacobsson,

Good stuff, Bro! Keep at it, I might be able to join you soon (currently too busy with work and D3 lolz). Keep in mind that you will need to completely disassemble the machine to mount the new HS. If everything is done correctly, the radiator will become your new bottleneck and I don't really know how we can improve that. I thought about using a thin copper wire and wrap it around the bottom pipe a gazzilion of times but that would only slow heat buildup and we need something to take it away from the system. Ideally, we would need a complete redesign of the HS, replacing the pipe with a 8mm and less flattened one. maybe adding more fins on the radiator's side. Then we would see a serious improvement.

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What is the best method to cut the slot in the radiator?

As @Aikimox pointed out, doing what you have suggested would then see the radiator fins become the limiting point for heat removal as they are currently. Under load the heatsink is already plenty hot as is the air the fan pushes out.

An option to improve this would be to route that heatpipe to the fan. Then the fan would not only remove the heat from the radiator fins but also from the fan housing, in effect becoming a secondary heatsink. Be sure to have a backup fan in case you do go ahead with the experiment where the extra heat melts some fan components/plastic.

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...Keep in mind that you will need to completely disassemble the machine to mount the new HS.

This is where I might surprise you =) I can't say 100%, but my measurements tells me that it won't be necessary.

...we would need a complete redesign of the HS, replacing the pipe with a 8mm and less flattened one. maybe adding more fins on the radiator's side.

Would you suggesting that rather adding a second pipe I should replace the existing one with a larger pipe instead? Sounds interesting!

...An option to improve this would be to route that heatpipe to the fan. Then the fan would not only remove the heat from the radiator fins but also from the fan housing, in effect becoming a secondary heatsink.

I have a new fan on its way right now, but to be safe I'd need something heat resistant material to put between the fan and MOBO just in case it would melt. Any suggestion?

EDIT: The more I look at this mod the more I understand that there are no head room for a heat pipe on top of the fan.

EDIT2: Well, the x220/x230 fan might actually be a game changer since it's built with copper housing, "in-built" heta pipes and 4-pin connector:

post-6049-14494997181104_thumb.jpg

A third option could be this:

-Adding smaller HS+fan on heatsink:

post-6049-14494997179832_thumb.jpg

or this

post-6049-14494997180014_thumb.jpg

Of course this might be very hard to make room for, would probably require re-designing the 2560/2570p heatsink from scratch.

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There's a new BIOS, it might help @bjorm with his fan issue but that's about it.

Drivers, Software and Firmware for HP EliteBook 2570p Notebook PC - HP Support Center

- Fixes an issue where the System Diagnostics reports the same battery information for both the travel battery and the primary battery.

- Fixes an intermittent issue where the system incorrectly displays a fan error while the system is powering on.

- Fixes an issue where the Intel Graphics control panel does not display the correct verion of the VBIOS.

- Fixes an issue where certain brands of USB drives cannot be used to create a USB key to perform a system a crisis recovery.

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There's a new BIOS, it might help @bjorm with his fan issue but that's about it.

Drivers, Software and Firmware for HP EliteBook 2570p Notebook PC - HP Support Center

- Fixes an intermittent issue where the system incorrectly displays a fan error while the system is powering on.

It does not fix this cause after BIOS update I got the same messages. On the other hand, we need to remember that I could had broken MB.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I hope those new 820 G1 panels use LVDS rather than what seems to be a migration to eDP. If it's eDP then it's not feasible. While I'm OK with the stock panel it seems others desire IPS-like wide viewing angles. Unfortunately there's been no success retrofitting the X220/X230 IPS LVDS panels.

I hope that HP PSG manager does make a Haswell ZBook 12. It would be a relatively easy addition that fits in nicely with the new model designations. ZBooks buck the ultrabook trend where a chunkier chassis = more power, price and performance. 2570P was almost ZBook i7-quad spec to begin with. It's just missing the better panel, Haswell internals and higher price. That info raises the profile of our system considerably.

It's only our 12.5" HP 2570P and the now discontinued 13" Sony Z3 that can host a i7-quad in a small chassis. While the Z3 is technically impressive, I prefer the 2570P's durability, larger battery options, socketted CPU, expresscard slot, better warranty. All the while at a significantly lower ebay price.

experimental howto: fitting a '820 G1' backlit keyboard

It's pretty straightforward if the keyboard itself fits into the chassis insert correctly. There is an additional backlight ribbon cable that requires either 3.3V+GND or 5V+GND patch leads attached to an appropriate spot on the 2570P systemboard to power the backlight.

Here's an tutorial of how a backlit keyboard was retrofitted to an Acer 3820T by doing just this: Acer TimelineX 3820TG Backlit keyboard mod

I'm still looking to retro-fit this keyboard, but having serious problems finding any spare part. Could someone find one or at least the part-number?

Much appreciated! =)

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Looking for some feedback from other owners of 2570p ... I have the Gen 3 3360 I5 processor. I am looking to upgrade memory to 16 gigs .. I am wondering if anyone has used the CORSAIR Vengeance Performance 16GB (2 x 8G) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX16GX3M2B1600C9

any reason these should not perform well with our model laptop?

thanks for any reply's ...

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Looking for some feedback from other owners of 2570p ... I have the Gen 3 3360 I5 processor. I am looking to upgrade memory to 16 gigs .. I am wondering if anyone has used the CORSAIR Vengeance Performance 16GB (2 x 8G) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX16GX3M2B1600C9

any reason these should not perform well with our model laptop?

thanks for any reply's ...

You've found 2x8GB 1.35V DDR3-L CAS=9 RAM. No problem there using it on 2570P though there are cheaper options available of the same spec RAM.

I'm still looking to retro-fit this keyboard, but having serious problems finding any spare part. Could someone find one or at least the part-number?

Much appreciated! =)

HP 820 G1 keyboard with backlight (includes backlight cable and keyboard cable) spare part number is:

730541-B71 - for use in Sweden/Finland

730541-001 - for use in the US

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Looking for some feedback from other owners of 2570p ... I have the Gen 3 3360 I5 processor. I am looking to upgrade memory to 16 gigs .. I am wondering if anyone has used the CORSAIR Vengeance Performance 16GB (2 x 8G) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX16GX3M2B1600C9

any reason these should not perform well with our model laptop?

thanks for any reply's ...

I've just upgrade 2x4G to 2x8G DDR3L, because 8G is not enougth for me.

post-17239-14494997254904_thumb.jpg

post-17239-14494997255158_thumb.jpg

post-17239-14494997255925_thumb.png

I used to creat 4g ramdisk to save temp files. And the test is below. It seems the same between them.

Before: Hynix+NAYA 11-11-11-28

post-17239-14494997256182_thumb.png

post-17239-14494997255406_thumb.png

Now: G Skill 9-9-9-28

post-17239-14494997256538_thumb.png

post-17239-14494997255666_thumb.png

I am not sure if it can affect the HD4000 perform and the power supply, but the latency affect is no feeling as usual.

If you have not enough ram, i recommend to upgrade 16g.

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Unfortunately the 2570p uses and insyde BIOS, not an AMI. I only know how to enable multiplier overclocking on AMI. What he has done is a 4.8% BCLK overclock, which will work for all CPUs.

Maybe I can find where to raise the TDP by 10W, but that will require drudging through the BIOS decompressed into assembly.

His BIOS + ME FW:

2570OC.bin

Do the keyboard sequence:

WIN+left_arrow+right_arrow, then release on POST to enable the flash descriptor override.

Download FPT here:

fpt.zip

FPT needs to be run from DOS. There is a windows version but flashing in windows is very dangerous.

Backup your original ROM using FPT at the commandline in case you get a bad ME as discussed below and need to flash back:

fpt.exe -d origbios.bin

...

Hi guys!

I'm attempting the BCLK OC but can't manage to dump my original rom :(

This is what I get:

post-6049-14494997257105_thumb.jpg

Update:

* Had to execute "fpt.exe -bios -d original.rom"

* fpt -me -f 2570pOC.BIN gave a successful flash (I thought so anyway)

* The "Reference Clock"-slider/Icon is not present at all for me. :(

I guess I'm f-ed for now :( ?

Any suggestions?

@Tech Inferno Fan

EDIT: @Khenglish I saw that you modified nandos original dump, is it possible that mine has to be custom modified too?

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@jacobsson Reinstall XTU and tell me if the slider comes back. Also what version of my mod did you flash? The one I made for nando or akimox?

Hi Khenglish!

I flashed the 2570pOC.BIN that you made for nando (3.98MB).

I've also tested XTU 2.3 and 4.0, no slider for me :(

Here is my ROM-dump if you're interested to have a look.

EDIT: If it makes any difference I like to add that the first version I tested was 4.1.

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Hi Khenglish!

I flashed the 2570pOC.BIN that you made for nando (3.98MB).

I've also tested XTU 2.3 and 4.0, no slider for me :(

Here is my ROM-dump if you're interested to have a look.

EDIT: If it makes any difference I like to add that the first version I tested was 4.1.

When nando tried the version I made for akimox it didn't work for him. His ME FW was partially dead. I forget how he determined it had limited functionality, but hopefully he remembers and can tell you how to test it.

If it is messed up I can write a ME FW based on your dump for you.

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When nando tried the version I made for akimox it didn't work for him. His ME FW was partially dead. I forget how he determined it had limited functionality, but hopefully he remembers and can tell you how to test it.

If it is messed up I can write a ME FW based on your dump for you.

No Nandos version doesn't seem to work on my system (it's the one I tested above).

I'd really love if you could write a ME based on my ROM dump!

EDIT: How come @Aikimox version is 16MB while @Tech Inferno Fan only 4MB?

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Hi All,

I have recently purchased an EliteBook 2570p and upon start-up noticed a red stuck pixel on the left middle side of the screen.

Since I purchased this from another country (I am an engineer currently in a project in West Africa), I would like to ask your expertise please if there is any workaround or solution to this stuck red pixel?

I am very obsessive and I would really like to get rid of this stuck pixel. :)

Has anyone in this forum experienced this also?

Thanks.

-Marvin

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Hi All,

I have recently purchased an EliteBook 2570p and upon start-up noticed a red stuck pixel on the left middle side of the screen.

Since I purchased this from another country (I am an engineer currently in a project in West Africa), I would like to ask your expertise please if there is any workaround or solution to this stuck red pixel?

I am very obsessive and I would really like to get rid of this stuck pixel. :)

Has anyone in this forum experienced this also?

Thanks.

-Marvin

Those pixels doesn't move around or flickers?

This could be caused by many things:

* Bad CPU: My former CPU did dancing/raining pixels on the screen (had to exchange it)

* Bad/loose screen cable: You'll have to disassemble the top part of the notebook to check this

* Damaged screen: Eg. Dead pixels (The screen has to be exchanged)

Sorry but this is all I can come up with, those pixels should not be there!

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Hi Jacobsson,

The pixel is stuck on red all the time and does not flicker or move.

It is just 1 tiny red dot that is static.

I tried all these other solutions about "massaging" the area around the pixel and using programs like UDpixel and jscreenfix to somehow "excite" the pixel back to life (basically it's a program that changes the colors of the pixels around the area in different frequency rates), but none of them worked.

I hope someone can help me with this.

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Hi Jacobsson,

The pixel is stuck on red all the time and does not flicker or move.

It is just 1 tiny red dot that is static.

I tried all these other solutions about "massaging" the area around the pixel and using programs like UDpixel and jscreenfix to somehow "excite" the pixel back to life (basically it's a program that changes the colors of the pixels around the area in different frequency rates), but none of them worked.

I hope someone can help me with this.

I'm sorry to say that your screen seems to have a dead pixel. Did you buy the system under warranty or as an used item?

You can have a new screen for ~$50.

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I'm sorry to say that your screen seems to have a dead pixel. Did you buy the system under warranty or as an used item?

You can have a new screen for ~$50.

+1. Perfect time to make use of the NBD warranty to replace the LCD or else buy a replacement off ebay and fit it yourself. Quite easy even for a novice to do. Just follow the 2570P Maintenance And Service Guide.

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I just upgraded my i5-3320m CPU to a i7-3820qm.

BTW when I was browsing ebay looking for some CPUs, I stumbled upon a x230 motherboard. It shows that the cooling system has 2 pipes. Now I'm wondering whether the temp would get down if 2570p was also equipped with 2 cooling pipes.

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