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I think the 65W PSU won't handle quad CPU @ full blast. Just checked some reviews and benches @ notebookcheck and it looks like a 3720QM requires 25W more than a 3520M when running Prime95. Would a 8470p PSU (90W) work with the 2570p?

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What would be the symptom of the PSU not providing enough power? Would the CPU even run? I played Crysis 3 with the quad i7 45W with no problems.

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Crysis 3 won't stress the CPU the same way synthetic benchmarks do. Prime95+Furmark would probably cause PSU tripping. I know, not many people would ever want to run those benches on their machines, just trying to avoid surprises in extreme scenarios.

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I think the 65W PSU won't handle quad CPU @ full blast. Just checked some reviews and benches @ notebookcheck and it looks like a 3720QM requires 25W more than a 3520M when running Prime95. Would a 8470p PSU (90W) work with the 2570p?

Yeah.. they're compatible. 65W would be a bit tight when you consider it's45W for the CPU at full blast + 20W leftover to run the rest of the system? HDD is about 4W, LCD is 4W, so still about 12W left over for other ICs. Best to get a 90W AC adatper for initial testing to ensure absolutely no power starvation issues and then test a 65W one to see how it fares.

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Sounds good. Will report back when I get the parts. Need an extra heatsink (will mod it), copper shim, good thermal paste, 90W PSU and a 45W CPU...

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Ok, so I ordered the heatsink but have a question regarding the PSU. The 65W adapter that came with my machine is rated: output: 18.5v - 3.5A. The 90W one is rated: 19v - 4.74A. Won't it potentially kill the mobo? I know in desktops max deviation is up to 10%. Here it's 9%.... Any thoughts?

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Ok, so I ordered the heatsink but have a question regarding the PSU. The 65W adapter that came with my machine is rated: output: 18.5v - 3.5A. The 90W one is rated: 19v - 4.74A. Won't it potentially kill the mobo? I know in desktops max deviation is up to 10%. Here it's 9%.... Any thoughts?

19V@4.74A is the spec of a ED495UT 90W AC adapter, a configurable option for a 2570P. See http://h71016.www7.hp.com/MiddleFrame.asp?page=config&ProductLineId=539&FamilyId=3559&BaseId=38525&oi=E9CED&BEID=19701&SBLID= . It will be fine.

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Few days ago I tried to run 8460p with i7-2630QM and eGPU, and play few hours with Tomb Raider and Crysis3, everything was ok, FPS, turbo mode. After this I realized I was using a ... 65W HP AC (from 2170p) :) so it's capable to run QM smoothly.

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Wow, this board has exploded with the addition of Aikimox! I replied to your post at that "other place", but here's the meat of it:

"I did a few things to my 2570p that you might want to consider. I grabbed an expansion bay caddy and threw in the hdd from my old laptop (Acer 1810tz...RIP), put in 8gb of low voltage ram, and the arctic silver already mentioned. Mine came with the 128gb ssd, which helps out the battery life quite a bit vs a spinning disk (expansion bay is set to spin down after 2 minutes of not being used on battery). The newest bios is F.41, but keep in mind that anything newer than f.20 is RSA signed so you can't go back. My bluetooth reception sucks, but if you get the October 2012 drivers (go in revision history) it gets noticeably better."

@bjorm - sorry to hear that your mobo fried with the Sandy Bridge...and the IPS to a lesser extent.

Would it be possible to watch the discharge rate of the system on battery power to see if it exceeds 65w? I know that there are some battery configurations that reduce power consumption, but if the system's power consumption is less than or equal to 50w or so on the stock chip then we shouldn't see a discharge with the normal power supply. Not the best solution, I know, but it shouldn't take too long to give it a shot.

Welcome! Good luck with the CPU swap!

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@phillofoc,

Yes, I plan to use an SSD as the main drive and a 1TB HDD in the expansion bay. Wonder if it's possible to put a 15mm hard drive in the expansion bay? If yes, that would allow for a 2TB drive in there... :)

As far as battery life goes, I'm getting 6hrs+ of browsing and doing some mild virtualization (GNS3 + VMWare). This is with a 62wHr battery btw. Haven't done any tweaks to reduce the power consumption but will definitely do when/if upgrade this puppy to a quad core CPU. I wonder if the f.41 BIOS will let me unlock the extra 400mhz or will I have to do a blind flash back to an earlier version?

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@Aikimox

If you do decide to go with the expansion bay, remember that it's the 9.5mm height! Although that 15mm drive would be awesome...

If you read Nando's thread about the expansion bay caddies, reference the 2560p page, you will probably need to cut the diagnostic pin. I had the improper shutdown and suspend issues described in the forum with a generic expansion bay caddy from Ebay. I rushed and totally botched cutting the diagnostic pin on the 9.5mm board, so I transplanted a 12.7mm board I had laying around and it fit! It's one of the ones with the switch next to the drive connector that was mentioned either here or on NBreview; I purchased the 12.7mm unit from ebay user nimitz**. Check out this auction to see what I'm talking about:

For Dell Latitude E5430 E5530 Laptop 2nd HDD SSD Hard Drive Caddy | eBay

Just be forewarned that the auction above is for a 12.7mm height caddy! The 12.7mm caddy also had an LED that you can put behind the drive light window if you wanted to make it really fancy, I removed the leads to save the .001 watts of energy and because this laptop has enough LEDs already.

When I get some more time I'll throw together some of the easier mods/hacks/configurations that can help with power consumption. Without the Setup 1.x hack that Nando recommended earlier, here's my power consumption after my second drive has powered down and brightness at the lowest level:

6.8 no wifi

7.3 w/ wifi and bt idle not connected; settled to 6.9

7.7 w/ wifi connected but idle, no bt

I had winrar open and was viewing some PDFs and achieved those power ratings. I have the 55Wh battery and it usually shows above 7 hours under very light use. With a movie playing I usually will see about 5 hours.

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ebay performance vendor has 2570P with i7-3840QM!!

HP EliteBook 2570P D0U11US i7 3840QM 16GB 128GB SSD DVD W7PRO 12 5" Laptop | eBay

Guess that answers the question as to the cooling system being able to handle it. That's assuming they've not gone to any heatpipe mods like say retrofitting a 8470W one. I'm just saying that.. never investigated if they are physically interchangable. 8470W has a factory i7-quad.

Thanks to jacobsson for finding this one.

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heatpipe mods like say retrofitting a 8470W one.

could You link it, please?

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Hi guys!

This is my first post here at the 12.5" HP Elitebook 2570P Owner's Lounge.

As @Tech Inferno Fan mentioned earlier "ebay performance vendor has 2570P with i7-3840QM!!":

I spoke some more with the vendor and this is what they told me regarding the 3840QM upgrade they are doing (quite promising):

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

<email address="" removed="" per="" ebay="" policy="">See this mail conversation:

From jacobsson:

Dear [Vendor name],

Thank you sir for the answer!

So as I understand from your answer is that you don't do any modifactions for the cooler, just high quality paste?

I might be trying it myself and of course take full responsibility.

Best regards,

- jacobsson

Answer from vendor:

Dear jacobsson,

That is correct, we just use Arctic Silver.

Thanks,

[sellers name]

On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 12:02 PM<email address="" removed="" per="" ebay="" policy="">

</email></email>

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Hi Aikimox, I can answer both of your questions :) I've tried to upgrade the CPU and LCD screen with an user bjorm. And we wrote a topic on our Polish forum nhl.pl. Here is the link: Rne mody z Lenovo X220 i HP 2570p. - Forum Notebookcheck.pl, and here bjorm tried a more complicated way of upgrading the screen in 2560p: HP 2560p i prba instalacji matrycy IPS. - Forum Notebookcheck.pl. In short:

1) switching CPU to Sandy Bridge i7-2630qm gave us some nice performance gain, and the temps were not bad. Totally idle after booting up the system were smaller than 40 degrees. Maximum temp was 85 after the 3dmark06 test, which is very CPU-demanding. In Crysis 3, combined with eGPU gtx660 OC, CPU never reached 80 degrees. Of course, using iGPU only in 3dm11 or some Prime95 benchmarks may get the CPU to higher values, maybe over 95 degrees.

BUT switching to Sandy CPU f*cked up my motherboard! I don't know, maybe it was faulty.I needed to use my awesome warranty. I think that using i7 Ivy CPU should cause no problems. So, I rather don't recommend Sandy CPU for 2570p.

2) We failed to switch LCD to x220 IPS. It has got the incompatible wiring and screws placed somewhere else. You may find a way to make it more compatible, but we failed for sure.

Hi Jot & @bjorm.

I read about your screen hacking adventure, sooo close guys!

Did you try with any other screen after the first attempts?

By looking at the pictures of the bezel, could the bezel it self be modded to make the screen fit (if you willing to hack and remove material) or would it still be problems closing the lid?

If this could be done we clearly have the most awesome 12.5" laptop ever =)

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Hi Jot.

I read about your screen hacking adventure, sooo close guys!

Did you try with any other screen after the first attempts?

By looking at the pictures of the bezel, could the bezel it self be modded to make the screen fit (if you willing to hack and remove material) or would it still be problems closing the lid?

If this could be done we clearly have the most awesome 12.5" laptop ever =)

Bjorm tried complete disassembling the IPS screen. The problem is that all wiring of the original 2570p screen is placed on it's back, when wiring of IPS screen is placed in lower areas of the screen. The bezel is not a problem. If screen fitted, placing bezel back to it's place wouldn't be hard. The main problem is wiring. It makes the screen a little higher. If you could move it by, I think, desoldering it from it's original place and solder it to the back of the screen, as in the HP screen, it could fit. The problem with screws could then be easily solved by drilling some holes in HP "screen frame" (the thin pieces of metal on both sides of the screen, which hold it in situ).

So, he failed despite that he disassempled the screen totally. If you have the knowledge, you could give it a try and displace the wiring. Or maybe you will find other screens. Maybe 1080p xps12 screen could fit, but I wouldn't even try to work on so small, high res screen.

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...

So, he failed despite that he disassempled the screen totally. If you have the knowledge, you could give it a try and displace the wiring. Or maybe you will find other screens. Maybe 1080p xps12 screen could fit, but I wouldn't even try to work on so small, high res screen.

Dam**t, that sounds tricky. My soldering skills are unfortunately not that great (yet). I guess the XPS 12 option (If it would even work) would be very expensive.

How much did that IPS screen cost? It's maybe worth a shot if it's not a +$100 screen.

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Bjorm tried complete disassembling the IPS screen. The problem is that all wiring of the original 2570p screen is placed on it's back, when wiring of IPS screen is placed in lower areas of the screen. The bezel is not a problem. If screen fitted, placing bezel back to it's place wouldn't be hard. The main problem is wiring. It makes the screen a little higher. If you could move it by, I think, desoldering it from it's original place and solder it to the back of the screen, as in the HP screen, it could fit. The problem with screws could then be easily solved by drilling some holes in HP "screen frame" (the thin pieces of metal on both sides of the screen, which hold it in situ).

So, he failed despite that he disassempled the screen totally. If you have the knowledge, you could give it a try and displace the wiring. Or maybe you will find other screens. Maybe 1080p xps12 screen could fit, but I wouldn't even try to work on so small, high res screen.

I'm afraid that won't be possible because wires comes from the bottom of the screen. Maybe If someone could get IPS for bargain price (like I got) and has a good skills in soldering there would be a small chance to make it work ;)

Dam**t, that sounds tricky. My soldering skills are unfortunately not that great (yet). I guess the XPS 12 option (If it would even work) would be very expensive.

How much did that IPS screen cost? It's maybe worth a shot if it's not a +$100 screen.

I got it for something around $80 but it was a class A- (for me invisible, little scratch). In Poland, brand new IPS screen, with recommended FRU is something about $150.

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This x230 1080p screen might be interesting? :o

EDIT 1: I ran a couple of price requests, let's hope for some luck!

EDIT 2: Same answer every time, "We don't sell less than 10/order"

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I took the plunge and dropped in an eBay special 3632QM. I went with the 35w quad core because I was having temperature and throttling issues with the 3360m, but the highest temps I've seen so far are 81C during benchmarks and Kerbal Space Program. I also thought that I read somewhere that @bjorm tried putting a 45w Sandy Bridge CPU in his 2570p and it didn't end well, but I can't seem to find the post now. I also didn't want to impact my battery life (or wallet) as much as some of the 45w CPUs would have. I was concerned that the GPU performance would drop as the boost clock was 50mhz lower, so I ran several benchmarks, but I saw some decent iGPU improvements. Here's some observations so far:

3dmark06 +11.4%

3dmark11 +7.1%

CPUMark +62.5%

New WEI scores:

7.5 (+.3)

7.8 (+.2)

6.6 (+.1)

6.6 (+.1)

Idle power consumption within .1 or .2 of the 3360m

All I had to do was remove the service cover, fan, and heat sink, then drop the new CPU in. It took about as long to apply the Arctic Silver as it did to pull the CPU. I was surprised that I didn't have to change any BIOS settings, but I did buy a restart after Windows recognized the new CPU.

I haven't noticed a change in single threaded apps, but in the short time I've had to play some Kerbal the parts that used to have huge FPS dips are smooth now. Overall a good experience, and I expect to make back much of what I spent on the upgrade by putting the 3360m on eBay.

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New BIOS dropped

F.42 (17 Jul 2013)

- Fixes an intermittent issue where the power button does not power on the system.

- Fixes an intermittent issue where the BIOS Power On feature does not wake the system as expected.

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Update for my system:

See my sign =)

I've managed to make an pretty easy copper mod to the heatsink which gives me idle temps of almost 39 - 40c (if you have proper tim added, mine tend to run hotter for the moment).

I will post a more detailed write-up here with pictures and other goodies from my experience of these upgrades.

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