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You're probably right cause I haven't had this behavior since this one accident.

No no, I just put a second, short heatpipe on the top of original one (I didn't decide to put another one on the bottom), so there is original one and new one doesn't enter the radiator.

I'm really frustrated because of this transfer of vibrations. There is strict connection between this noise and bottom plate. Sound appeaes only when plate is set up on its place but I cant find what trasfer this vibration and why one solid plate makes this sound!?

If the bottom cover and fan/heatpipe make contact then could glue down rubber pieces from say a bicycle tyre inner tube on the fan/heatpipe, bottom cover or contact point between fan and chassis to act as an insulator. Otherwise brilliant two-diode work in quietening the fan :)

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Sorry for my poor English.

between msata and mini-pcie difference, pay attentention at pin43.

reference: [url=http://bbs.pceva.com.cn/forum.php?mod=viewthread&action=printable&tid=74413]mSATA[/url]

[FONT=FONT]mini PCI-E[/FONT]



































































































1WAKE#23.3V
3N/C4GND
5N/C61.5V
7CLKREQ#8UIM_PWR
9GND10UIM_DATA
11REFCLK-12UIM_CLK
13REFCLK+14UIM_RESET
15GND16UIM_VPP




[FONT=FONT]Mechanical Key 齿[/FONT]



























































































































































































































17N/C (UIM_C8)18GND
19N/C (UIM_C4)20N/C
21GND22PERST#
23PERn0 24+3.3Vaux
25PERp026GND
27GND281.5V
29GND30SMB_CLK
31PETn032SMB_DATA
33PETp034GND
35GND36USB_D-
37N/C38USB_D+
39N/C40GND
41N/C42LED_WWAN#
43N/C44LED_WLAN#
45N/C46LED_WPAN#
47N/C481.5V
49N/C50GND
51N/C52+3.3V




msata

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8908[/ATTACH]

Does it mean pin43 connect to GND then pcie mode change to sata mode?

If it can identify ssd, the last to do is how to boot from msata.
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Does it mean pin43 connect to GND then pcie mode change to sata mode?

If it can identify ssd, the last to do is how to boot from msata.

As I mentioned earlier, have you bridged the pin 23, 25, 31, 33 on the 2570P's WWAN/mPCIe slot? That might give an eletrical connection to the SATA controller. Then it's a matter of the BIOS enabling port2 that appears mSATA is attached to. 2570P might have hidden code to do that. If the mSATA SSD isn't seen, then consider flashing the 8570P/W BIOS by using fptw64 to get a bios image from that system. 8570PW does have mSATA SSD support.

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Oh I thought you were getting a 3820qm. So how are temps with it?

Sorry for the delay on the BIOS mod. Been busy (school and my own stuff that I broke).

No rush, I'm still experimenting with heatsinks and pipes. So far so good. Idle temps are almost as good as with 3632qm. Haven't tried 100% load yet, need better cooling. Also, it's +27c in my room, crazy hot.

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Hey Khenglish

Just wondering if you could share your insight and skills for us gx60/70 owners to clarify your methods to lock CPU p state that you described in: http://forum.techinferno.com/msi/4384-msi-gx60-laptop-overclock.html

Thanks in advance

p.s. I would PM you but can't figure out how >.< If you get round to it reply in that topic

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No rush, I'm still experimenting with heatsinks and pipes. So far so good. Idle temps are almost as good as with 3632qm. Haven't tried 100% load yet, need better cooling. Also, it's +27c in my room, crazy hot.

Could you give me a little sneak-peak or description of your new heatsink mod? :rapture:

EDIT: By the way, why is your HHD's only showing 3Gb/s?

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Could you give me a little sneak-peak or description of your new heatsink mod? :rapture:

EDIT: By the way, why is your HHD's only showing 3Gb/s?

Because these are 3Gb/s drives. I went for extra storage for now, sacrificing the performance. Will upgrade to SSD's soon ;)

As for the heatsink mod, will do when I have some results, still expecting some parts to arrive. Also need a 90W PSU.

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Ok guys, here's a crazy idea:

I was gonna try and mod a chromebook pixel screen (2560x1700p, IPS, 100%sRGB) into my machine but that would require a custom made DP to eDP cable (DP port would be permanently disabled for any other use), a backlight board which requires about 30v output and a lid mod as the panel is 12.85". Now, the only thing I'm comfortable about is the lid mod, lol.

Now, here's an alternative. There were 2 great panels in production in 2011 which were used in sony vaio z2 (13"). Those 2 TN panels came in 1920x1080 and 1600x900p and both had very good gamut (~98%aRGB or ~125%+sRGB), good brightness and contrast. If I'm not mistaken, there would be a perfect fit (LVDS 2ch) in our case. Later on in 2012 Sony replaced the LVDS with eDP and offered newer panels but those would be a pain to mod (see the first paragraph). So if we could find one of those panels, the only thing we would have to do is mod the lid, which is not a big deal. You could probably buy a spare lid for about 100$ for experiments. 13.1" RGBLED would an awesome upgrade, IMHO, and well worth the trouble. The problem is, I can't find the panels, most online stores have them out of stock and the price is outrageous ~300$

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Ok guys, here's a crazy idea:

I was gonna try and mod a chromebook pixel screen (2560x1700p, IPS, 100%sRGB) into my machine but that would require a custom made DP to eDP cable (DP port would be permanently disabled for any other use), a backlight board which requires about 30v output and a lid mod as the panel is 12.85". Now, the only thing I'm comfortable about is the lid mod, lol.

Now, here's an alternative. There were 2 great panels in production in 2011 which were used in sony vaio z2 (13"). Those 2 TN panels came in 1920x1080 and 1600x900p and both had very good gamut (~98%aRGB or ~125%+sRGB), good brightness and contrast. If I'm not mistaken, there would be a perfect fit (LVDS 2ch) in our case. Later on in 2012 Sony replaced the LVDS with eDP and offered newer panels but those would be a pain to mod (see the first paragraph). So if we could find one of those panels, the only thing we would have to do is mod the lid, which is not a big deal. You could probably buy a spare lid for about 100$ for experiments. 13.1" RGBLED would an awesome upgrade, IMHO, and well worth the trouble. The problem is, I can't find the panels, most online stores have them out of stock and the price is outrageous ~300$

What about a 12.5" Dell XPS FHD, IPS, capacitive touch panel? It gets plenty of praise at Review Update Dell XPS 12-9Q33 Convertible - NotebookCheck.net Reviews

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There's quite a few LT131EE11000 LCDs on ebay-US: LT131EE11000 | eBay

Most of those sellers either state it as B131HW02 V.0/LT131EE11000 or compatible but those are two different panels. According to the datasheets B131HW02 is eDP. I'm confused. Maybe they are both eDP and if that's the case then there's no hope.

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Here's another bad news, a 900p or 1080p panel would require LVDS 2 channels instead of one and there's a very high chance that HP only implemented a single channel LVDS connection on the mobo. So, in this case all we can do is try that IPS HD panel from Lenovo.

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Here's another bad news, a 900p or 1080p panel would require LVDS 2 channels instead of one and there's a very high chance that HP only implemented a single channel LVDS connection on the mobo. So, in this case all we can do is try that IPS HD panel from Lenovo.

Update 10-30-2013: HP confirm that 2570P has single-channel LVDS wired. Means no panels other than HD are possible.

From the 2560P schematic below, does look like the 40pin systemboard/LCD connector is single channel. A Lenovo Y560 schematic snippet here shows LVDS_A and LVDS_B in the dual-channel config.

KLVJjaw.png

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Thanks for confirming my fears. So, it's either the 768p IPS or a try modding the DP port to support eDP panels. According to this article, it's possible and there's even a cable made by Intel (page 12), but we would still need to figure out how to power the backlight part. Maybe the screen used in XPS12 requires less voltage and can be powered by using the existing connector? The 1700p panel from Chromebook pixel requires about 30volts for backlight (uses about 18.5 mA and draws about 5.6w max).

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...Chromebook pixel requires about 30volts for backlight (uses about 18.5 mA and draws about 5.6w max).

Couldn't this be easily done by the use of a step down regulator?

I'm heading to work at the moment but I'll look into it later.

EDIT: What voltage is required for 2570p?

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I dunno yet, there's a chance that the motherboard can supply the required voltage, the IPS panel from Lenovo draws about 22Volts max and it does work in 2570p.

Edit:

On a side note here is the first CPU benchmark at stock clocks (wPrime1.55 32MB run):

A bit frustrating that it can't hold 3.6ghz on all cores due to some kind of power limitation. I have tried XTU and could set higher max power draw but it seems to be stuck at 38-39W and 3.4GHz on all cores.

post-85-14494996078936_thumb.jpg

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^^ Whoa! I flashed the ME FW (major thanks to Khenglish for modding it for me!) and after a few reinstalls of XTU the BCLK got unlocked! I can now run stable at 3.6Ghz on all cores with only about 40W power consumption! Benches will follow when my 90W psu arrives.

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^^ Whoa! I flashed the ME FW (major thanks to Khenglish for modding it for me!) and after a few reinstalls of XTU the BCLK got unlocked! I can now run stable at 3.6Ghz on all cores with only about 40W power consumption! Benches will follow when my 90W psu arrives.

Did you manage to get the multipiers unlocked with Khenglish's ME FW? You'd max out a 4Ghz on your i7-3840QM if the cooling and power subsystems allowed it.

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This is massive NEWS for 2570P owners!! An extra 400Mhz free performance on your partially unlocked 3840QM moves us into gaming notebook CPU performance without the clunkiness. Yes, please do provide benchies and step-by-step instructions on how to apply Khenglish's 2570P ME FW multiplier-unlocking update.

Makes you wonder how far we could push a fully unlocked i7-3920XM/i7-3940XM in our system. With beefed up cooling system of course.

Unfortunately the 2570p uses and insyde BIOS, not an AMI. I only know how to enable multiplier overclocking on AMI. What he has done is a 4.8% BCLK overclock, which will work for all CPUs.

Maybe I can find where to raise the TDP by 10W, but that will require drudging through the BIOS decompressed into assembly.

His BIOS + ME FW:

2570OC.bin

Do the keyboard sequence:

WIN+left_arrow+right_arrow, then release on POST to enable the flash descriptor override.

Download FPT here:

fpt.zip

FPT needs to be run from DOS. There is a windows version but flashing in windows is very dangerous.

Backup your original ROM using FPT at the commandline in case you get a bad ME as discussed below and need to flash back:

fpt.exe -d origbios.bin

Flash the modified ME firmware with FPT using the command:

fpt -me -f 2570OC.bin

The file included is a full BIOS + ME FW image, but we are only flashing the ME FW. I could cut out the BIOS portion for a smaller download but this works. There is no danger in overwriting the ME FW with any other version, so flashing this mod properly is safe for any 2570p.

After flashing XTU may need to be reinstalled to enable the BLCK slider.

I do not know if this BCLK overclocking also overclocks the PCH PCI-E for eGPUs. It would be nice if someone could test PCI-E bandwidth in SANDRA with a BCLK overclock to verify if it does or not. If not I can provide an additional mod which definitely will overclock the PCH PCI-E.

UPDATE: New modified ME firmware file that works for Tech Inferno Fan, since this one didn't, is located here: http://forum.techinferno.com/hp-business-class-notebooks/2537-12-5-hp-elitebook-2570p-owners-lounge-41.html#post79212

How to check for a bad ME flash or XTU version

Below I've included an image showing what I check for a bad ME flash and/or bad XTU. A 'bad ME flash' in my case was Aikimox's modified ME contained in this post. I believe jot23 had this same issue.

I upgraded from XTU 3.2 -> 4.0 -> 4.2. All of them had the reference clock slider once I had flashed a good ME firmware with unlocked clocks c/o Khenglish.

Khenglish modified my system's own fpt.exe BIOS dump which resulted in a good ME flash. Now I can successfully adjust my BCLK. The captured XTU screenshot belowing showing a 4.63% overclock (2.7Ghz->2.825Ghz)

<A HREF="http://i.imgur.com/wWsZuts.png"><img width=900 src=http://i.imgur.com/wWsZuts.png></IMG></A>

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Ok, so here are some details about clocks and scores:

post-85-14494996084358_thumb.jpg

I was able to push the BCLK to 105.7 so far and got slightly over 3.6ghz. So far so good, but I hope there's a way of getting control over amps and voltages. Funny how the scores are better than those of the new haswell processors including the 4930MX lol

post-85-14494996083499_thumb.jpg

post-85-14494996083942_thumb.jpg

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