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On 12/2/2017 at 2:45 PM, gardiner said:

You keep the "Maximum processor state" to its standard setting of 100%

but then you install a registry tweak which will enable a new setting in the Advanced Power Options, called "Processor performance boost mode".

You set that to "Disabled" and it will completely disable Turbo Boos

 

Good stuff, thanks for sharing!

 

In line with that topic I thought I should share some stuff about power consumption, too.

Recently I started fitting a Toshiba Satellite C870 for use - also an Ivy Bridge laptop. That model though has the power feed to the CPU capped at 35W in the BIOS and behaves really unstable with a 45W processor. 

 

So I played with 'turbostat' to see what frequencies result in what power consumption, which might be interesting for 2570p users, too (I actually ran the tests on the 2570p and on the C870 with identical results, except for the full boost speeds on the C870 which were unstable).

 

Here are all the results - testing a Core-i5 2320M and Core-i7 3720QM at single-thread (1) stress, multi-threaded (8) stress and multi-threaded + Furmark.

Also note the tests running at 2900MHz and 3200MHz mimicking a 3632QM.

https://gist.github.com/batyanko/5fe88f89036f14483e84a7c6fe390829

 

Here are also results for a 3632QM, kindly shared by user haagch from phoronix.com forums:

https://gist.github.com/ChristophHaag/b019a10c255f05046ffa52efc63b2b60

 

Some of my observations:

 

- It seems that the 3720QM is not only able to run at 3632QM speeds when needed, but is also more efficient by ~4W. So there seems no good reason for choosing 3612QM or 3632QM over a 45W model.

- GPU / IGP can be a huge power hog if stressed well with Furmark or a 3D game.

- The i5-3230M could have easily been marketed as 30W, I totally couldn't push it over that mark. In fact, it cannot even do 16W unless you stress the GPU / IGP simultaneously.

 

Note: CPU and Intel HD 400 GPU / IGP clock setting done on Kubuntu 17.10 using following commands:

# Set CPU to 81% (3000MHz), base non-turbo clocks being not 99% but somewhere around 70%
echo "81" | sudo tee /sys/devices/system/cpu/intel_pstate/max_perf_pct

# Set GPU clock to 350MHz
echo 350 | sudo tee /sys/class/drm/card0/gt_max_freq_mhz /sys/class/drm/card0/gt_boost_freq_mhz

 

Edited by batyanko
removed code highlighting
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  • 4 weeks later...

I have used a 3740qm cpu for a while. The processor is fast but the cooling system is not capable of keeping normal temperatures. Thanks every one for their personal cooling system modifications, really interesting. This 3740qm keeps x33 for all 4 cores till the throttling limit of 105°C. Arctic MX-4 used.

 

Some notes/findings:

1. Docking station covers most of the fan air out vents artea, so this is a bad design for quad processors (even for high speed dual core).

2. The use of ThrottleStop software is unavoidable. You can choose the exact multiplier that keeps the system at a safe level, e.g. x27<80°C, x25<75°C etc. x12 can be a good choice when on battery to save some power. Presets can also be used to change automatically according to temperature levels.

3. It seems that the System will try to keep the 35W power draw for the CPU, so at x33 the ThrottleStop always shows less than 37W of consumption.

4. The 65W adapter might be then OK as the system always tries to use 35W. But keep in mind that when charging the battery and using all 4 cores at maximum could drive it on its limits.

battery when empty will draw about 55W for charging then decrease the consumption gradually. It could then be a safe choice to use a smaller multiplier when charging an empty battery with less than 30% capacity.

5. Some external fan/air exhaust solutions that stick at the air vents can only help cooling down only at about 1-2°C. Other more common cooling solutions have to be used with the back cover off. Then the system can retain a good opportunity to hold temperatures below 90°C at full load

6. Keep in mind to reset bios to defaults when changing the CPU !! or there might be side effects.

 

I would like to ask your opinion on those 2 fan products I have found, there is a possibility to work on this system with the back cover on!

http://www.sunon.com/uFiles/file/03_products/08-catalog%20download/Sunon%20Mighty%20Mini%20Fan_(223-W).pdf

 

Some how those can be powered with 5V, then glued on the heatsink, then some specific holes on the metallic back cover...

 

 

Edited by istinnstudio
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1 hour ago, istinnstudio said:

I would like to ask your opinion on those 2 fan products I have found, there is a possibility to work on this system with the back cover on!

http://www.sunon.com/uFiles/file/03_products/08-catalog%20download/Sunon%20Mighty%20Mini%20Fan_(223-W).pdf

 

I have seen opinions that they are just too tiny and weak to make any difference, looking at the mentioned air flow characteristics. Personally I haven't got much clue about litres per minute, but the the low power draw (volts x amperes) equates to pretty low amounts of moved air, even if we consider that a quality Sunon cooler moves air more efficiently.

  

Anyway I am curious to know what results you get with such a cooler. If you aim it well at a larger heatsink area / radiator and or stick some small heatsinks at the target spot, it might make a difference. Also you might well put several of them, since they are so small :) 

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4 hours ago, batyanko said:

 

I have seen opinions that they are just too tiny and weak to make any difference, looking at the mentioned air flow characteristics. Personally I haven't got much clue about litres per ...

 

I agree, the only chance could be the 30x30x3 but it is also just a tiny fan, maybe 2 of them side by side,  they are very expensive though.

 

There might be better results with a fan that shoots air directly to heatsink, instead of a blower, I am not sure. A fan on top might can do serious work if there is an air window to use on the back case.

 

Edited by istinnstudio
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I was wondering if someone is familiar with the mechanism - sensor that shuts the screen off when closing the lid. I am not sure if is a magnetic sensor. I have a spare working unit without the screen and lid and would like to boot to bios with an external monitor (vga or display port). The normal behavior is, when press power and then close the lid, immediately the system will transfer the signal to the external monitor from the very early boot screen. Do you think of a sensor trigger to do this without the lid?

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I would just want to report that i replaced the stock i5 3320 procie with a secondhand one, an i7 3612QM that i found for cheap (PhP 1500, or equivalent to $3 dollars) and i couldn't be any happier. Well, except of course for its weight. Its pretty heavy. But I love the built. Very solid. And heavy too. Oh! One more thing, it's a little weighty. :D

 

But I'm loving it. Added an extra 4gb ram for a dual channel 8gb ram. Pretty satisfied. I hate the charger tho. It's so bulky. :(

 

Can you guys recommend a slim/lightweight probably 2017 model charger that's easier to carry than the stock charger that works for our 2570p? 

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51 minutes ago, ImMortal468 said:

I have that very same one from AliExpress. No, it does not work.

It gets power for a few seconds on the +5 VDC USB lane, then shuts off completely after POSTing (no data, no current).

So it seems that it is "hardware"-compatible, but disabled in BIOS like all other possible mini-PCIE devices, except for white-listed network cards.

 

Kinda strange, considering that the very same Mini-PCIE gadget worked fine on a Acer Aspire One NAV-50 netbook (a very very very cheap machine :D ) 

 

On 1/6/2018 at 2:24 PM, Onoakino said:

Can you guys recommend a slim/lightweight probably 2017 model charger that's easier to carry than the stock charger that works for our 2570p? 

So damn true, the 2570p is bit heavy...

About the charger - last year about 20-30 chargers went through my hands, my impression was that Watt capacity was very tightly related to weight. That is, a charger gotta weigh at least that and that grams for 65W, that and that grams for 90W and so on.

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7 hours ago, ImMortal468 said:

Not sure if that USB will have full functionality anyway (other than storage), you might want to research that. Also make sure to get a CD-Rom caddy for the optical drive bay if you wanna put anything different than a DVD drive in it.

 

For extra USB ports I use this express card. Poor build quality but it does the job. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Express-Card-Expresscard-34mm-to-USB-3-0-2-Port-Adapter-PCI-Express-Card/32647044360.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Hcy6Fc

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On 1/2/2018 at 7:15 PM, istinnstudio said:

I was wondering if someone is familiar with the mechanism - sensor that shuts the screen off when closing the lid. I am not sure if is a magnetic sensor. I have a spare working unit without the screen and lid and would like to boot to bios with an external monitor (vga or display port). The normal behavior is, when press power and then close the lid, immediately the system will transfer the signal to the external monitor from the very early boot screen. Do you think of a sensor trigger to do this without the lid?

 

Ok.. I have just found out the way to trick the sensor, it is a magnetic sensor, exactly below the 3 circle buttons area on the right upper side of the case, so if you place carefully a small magnet there, you can transfer GPU signal through an external monitor. So if the lid/screen is missing, boot screen signal can be transferred, access BIOS etc.

 

* (be careful not to use strong magnets near a hard disk)

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4 hours ago, WDSKRS said:

Is there any meaningful point to undervolt i5 dualcore for general puroses?

Work longer without fan spinning up?

Pay less $$$ for electricity?

Anyway, how do you undervolt that kind of CPU? Interested to know.

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On 06.01.2018 at 4:24 PM, Onoakino said:

Can you guys recommend a slim/lightweight probably 2017 model charger that's easier to carry than the stock charger that works for our 2570p? 

Yes, you can bay travel adapter HP. Here for example: Ebay 5a5b1570e9ddd_TraveladaptorHPEliteBook2570pSlim90WBT796AAORIGINAL.thumb.png.f79228869bea7e2eb0c64dca67006986.png

20180310_222153.thumb.jpg.25a830a3e05b4f38ecd2e2d76c0ec984.jpg

 

I use the 90W adapter. Your processor is i7 3612QM and you can bay 65W adapter. But my advice is 90W adapter.

Edited by invait53
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Actually, I have a 3820qm and I had the same problem about the fan spining non stop.
This was getting me insane, until a day I disabled by mistake entirely the fan, and it started to speed only at critical temperature at 90°C.
So, now my fan is constantly disabled and running at 100% only when at 85°C.
I don't recomment this a lot, but my ears are very calm now as the fan in mostly off. I can change laptop, but not my ears.
But I have turbo enabled, so the laptop spikes up quickly at 85°C and throtles sometime, especially when it have to open browsers, compress documents, etc.
I really don't recommend a Quad Core in this laptop (or even this laptop short) because of all this problems.

About the thermal mod, I am not really impressed. Can you show the curves from cold boot (or standby) with HWMon32 ? Just double click on any line and it will show the curves.
Because, as it was said, if my fan runs at 100% I will stabilise at 95°C with CPU usage at 100% (stress test).
So I think the mod is usefull only to limit the time you hit hight temps but you will always hit high temps.
The problem with the 2570p when I watch my desktop PC with massive heatsink (and the way it is constructed) is the 2570p don't have airflow.
Also, the mass of the heatsink is to low. With 7 copper plates of few grams this will not be enough to smoothen the temperature spike,
and even if it had enough mass there is no airflow to cool it, except the loud fan.
So what I suggest is to dramatically increase the mass with large copper papers (not shims), and even if you don't like, to cut of the case.
The problem with copper those papers is that it can bring heat on sensible components like the hard drive, so best to have a small paper.
Concerning the cutting of the case, why didn't you put a filter ? They sell air filters all over websites dealing with informatics.
I tought about a micro fan but : where to plug it in order to control it ? Even if it is micro it will make noise, and we have to plug it to have airflow.
Also, I tought about plugging a flexible heatsink but I don't know where to connect it,
knowing the laptop becomes pretty hot to touch when the CPU becomes hot, I think a flexible heatsink will not be possible (the palm rest is in metal, so even at 50°C it will be uncomfortable to touch if there is a
flexible heatsink connected to it, and let us not forget all the sensible components).

HP didn't put some sort of large copper or metal plate (papper) like other laptops of this size, exacltly because even the 35w CPU would be to hot and it would dissipate high
heat everywhere. So they put a small heatsink with a (somewhat) powerful fan to disipate heat. In consequence, adding a small copper plate would be enough to passively dissipate the heat,
like on other laptops, but with of course an undercloked CPU, then for high performance, the fan will turn on, but the plate will bring the heat everywhere. The fan must be on
so long as the plate is not cool.

40 watts in such a laptop is a real pain.
I seriously think that the best convinient way to limit fan noise, and heat is simply to underclock the CPU or to deal with it.
I use HWMon32 to underclock the CPU when the temps are high, 

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I finally modded my 2570p with an i7 -3720QM. Added a 50x50x4mm heat pad between heatsink and case and use Arctic MX-4.

Load temp after 10 minutes prime95 are 85°C on all cores and 86°C on CPU package.

 

For gaming I use a GTX 970 via GDC Beast in EC slot. DSDT override was necessary, nothing else.

 

3DMark GPU score - 2974

3DMark CPU score - 3305

4f9d2c41-f1c0-450e-9038-a18f2362f56c.jpg

Edited by SaxnPaule
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On 18/01/2018 at 10:28 PM, SaxnPaule said:

I finally modded my 2570p with an i7 -3720QM. Added a 50x50x4mm heat pad between heatsink and case and use Arctic MX-4.

Load temp after 10 minutes prime95 are 85°C on all cores and 86°C on CPU package.

 

For gaming I use a GTX 970 via GDC Beast in EC slot. DSDT override was necessary, nothing else.

 

3DMark GPU score - 2974

3DMark CPU score - 3305

4f9d2c41-f1c0-450e-9038-a18f2362f56c.jpg

 

I did new tests. Seems that I am maximizing at 100°C-102°C on full load with the 3820qm. Maybe I should repaste. Good thing is my CPU keeps full four cores at 3.4 Ghz (turbo 4c is normally 3.5Ghz), and almost don't throttle even at this high temps.  Fan is at 100%. I will try a shim and to repaste when I will have more time.

So I think you have good results.

On 18/01/2018 at 9:54 PM, ImMortal468 said:

Once more time about sata and wwan. Is this one will work: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NGFF-SSD-to-SATA-III-2-5-22-Pin-HDD-Hard-Disk-Driver-Converter-Adapter-Card/2036544961.html ? Teoretically it is from sata to m2 and if my knowledge is good you can buy wwan card on m2.

For professional reasons I am using a mSATA SSD on my 2570p with an mSATA to SATA converter.

I don't really understand your question with your WWAN port (by all means it would be too small to fit this adapter) but in the standard SATA place for HDD on the 2570p this adapter you showed should work.

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On 25.01.2018 at 3:17 AM, ImMortal468 said:

I want to use adapter in dvd-rom bay to connect non-white listed wwan card.

It's impossible because in dvd-rom bay use SATA (SATA_RXn, SATA_RXp, SATA_TXn, SATA_TXp) . Wwan card use PCI Express (PETp0, PETn0, PERp0, PERn0).

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16 minutes ago, invait53 said:

It's impossible because in dvd-rom bay use SATA (SATA_RXn, SATA_RXp, SATA_TXn, SATA_TXp) . Wwan card use PCI Express (PETp0, PETn0, PERp0, PERn0).

Yes, but this won't work? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NGFF-SSD-to-SATA-III-2-5-22-Pin-HDD-Hard-Disk-Driver-Converter-Adapter-Card/2036544961.html

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