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hi, I am new on this expert forum and have some questions:

1. If I want to upgrade to any quad core cpu (even 35W 36x2) do I need hw modding of cooling sub system?

2. If reduce quad core cpu to non turbo boost speeds, will it be slower than normal i5 or i7 dual core?

thanks

 

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On 9/7/2017 at 11:35 AM, ivanox1972 said:

hi, I am new on this expert forum and have some questions:

1. If I want to upgrade to any quad core cpu (even 35W 36x2) do I need hw modding of cooling sub system?

2. If reduce quad core cpu to non turbo boost speeds, will it be slower than normal i5 or i7 dual core?

thanks

 

Whether you need to mod your cooling would depend on what your temperature goals are, and what luck you have with the quad-core you buy :))

You may notice from recent posts that people get quite diverse temperatures, probably depending on silicon lotto, i.e. the inevitable random variance in production quality. Generally you should be alright with short bursts of max CPU load, while max loads for more than a few dozens of seconds will lead to heat accumulating, temps rising and core speeds throttling to various extents, depending on how bad temps are. 

 

My personal opinion is that if you have a good use for multi-thread performance, you will get quite an improvement over any dual-core, even if you cut turbo speeds altogether.

 

Now the question is whether you really need that multi-thread performance. Those third gen dual-cores are quite decent performers for day-to-day tasks, even by today's standards. The extra money for a quad-core would be worth only if you need the extra CPU cores for productivity stuff like video editing or compiling large software projects. Cutting compile wait or rendering wait in half makes good sense, but usual day-to-day tasks rarely find use for more than two i5/i7 cores.

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Hi guys. I am planning to buy 2570p. Eventhough I spent hours browsing this topic, I have some questions.
First I would like to thank all of you for amounts of information and measurements available in this topic.

1. Has anyone reached sustainable temperature of quad core 45W i7 at high load (gaming, video edit), or all those mods only help to extend the time it can work before it starts throttling?

2. Does e-GPU help to cool the laptop? I mean, when you use e-GPU, you don´t need the HD 4000, which would otherwise heat up especially under high load...

3. Is it worth buying even today, years after it was released? I mean, it uses CPUs that are already 5 generations old...

4. Is there any laptop as modular as this, that uses 4th or 5th gen CPUs? From what I researched, 2570p is one of very few and last laptops of its kind. I am looking for a laptop, that will be portable (12-14"), with socketed CPU so one can replace it, with possibility of e-GPU, simply something like 2570p, just 2-3 years younger.

5. Is the e-GPU useful also for the laptop display, or it helps only with the external monitor? Is it useful also for hardware acceleration (for example when working with photoshop, or video editing in Premiere pro)

6. Does using the stock 65W adapter for 45W TDP CPU affect cooling? Because if you don´t use stronger adapter, it cannot draw more power, so it means less heat generated (also less power), right? Or does it take that extra power from the battery? What actually happens when you use 65W adapter and inside is 45W TDP 4-core CPU?

Thanks a lot, btw trust me, I would not ask something I would not try to search before.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8.8.2016. at 6:53 AM, invait53 said:

@todo1. What number of your motherboard? Mine is 685404-601. Several months ago I tryed to install the i7-3632QM to HP 2570p with the motherboard 685404-101 but it didn't work. I even couldn't enter bios. It works with two cores processor only. You can check the number under the RAM.  

 

I finally landed on cheapest 3610qm, as said in OP- grab any of quad cores...

So, I dont have too demanded wishes about performance and also not want to upgrade cooling system.

How easiest to limit 35w cpu in windows 7 to stay on safe side but not limit it too much and get too bad performance?

thanks @batyanko

Edited by ivanox1972
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey everybody, I know it's been a while since my last update on the cooling solution, but Harvey hit us hard and just got everything back together so I'll toss up some updates. Well here is where I am on the second attempt of a prototype cooling solution. 

 

Basically it's keeping, re-using and modifying the aluminum heat sink because the copper one i had before was just retaining too much heat. I found the aluminum may heat up faster, but it doesn't retain much of the heat as it's going to be getting hopefully sent through now 2 heat pipes and to the copper radiator replacing the aluminum one. I still have to order the pyrolytic graphite to help move the heat off the heat sink and over to the pipes and radiator. And lastly the silver solder to join everything together. There is plenty on the parts, but i just want to make sure then is a good bond. I'm also making a good seal from fan to radiator with extra thermal tape for no leaks. 

 

As you can see I found a whole new cooling system from another laptop and am going to be using the radiator off it, I marked it where I will be making my cut and it worked and i test fit it and the width, height and length is just right. Only issue is I need to shape it like the stock one to avoid that dumb port on the side i'll never use by the vents. Any ideas on how to cut super thin radiator copper lol? I grinded down the heat sink plate to accommodate 2 pipes and those will slide right into the new radiator hopefully taking more heat off the cpu and to the cooling area. I still have the cut out under the stock fan and in the future might try to work in another fan over the heatsink, like a 3 or 5mm one.

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Edited by shikyo
forgot 2 pics
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On 9/9/2017 at 11:11 PM, CHnapo said:

Hi guys. I am planning to buy 2570p. Eventhough I spent hours browsing this topic, I have some questions.
First I would like to thank all of you for amounts of information and measurements available in this topic.

1. Has anyone reached sustainable temperature of quad core 45W i7 at high load (gaming, video edit), or all those mods only help to extend the time it can work before it starts throttling?

2. Does e-GPU help to cool the laptop? I mean, when you use e-GPU, you don´t need the HD 4000, which would otherwise heat up especially under high load...

3. Is it worth buying even today, years after it was released? I mean, it uses CPUs that are already 5 generations old...

4. Is there any laptop as modular as this, that uses 4th or 5th gen CPUs? From what I researched, 2570p is one of very few and last laptops of its kind. I am looking for a laptop, that will be portable (12-14"), with socketed CPU so one can replace it, with possibility of e-GPU, simply something like 2570p, just 2-3 years younger.

5. Is the e-GPU useful also for the laptop display, or it helps only with the external monitor? Is it useful also for hardware acceleration (for example when working with photoshop, or video editing in Premiere pro)

6. Does using the stock 65W adapter for 45W TDP CPU affect cooling? Because if you don´t use stronger adapter, it cannot draw more power, so it means less heat generated (also less power), right? Or does it take that extra power from the battery? What actually happens when you use 65W adapter and inside is 45W TDP 4-core CPU?

Thanks a lot, btw trust me, I would not ask something I would not try to search before.

 

I get 100°C at load on a 3820qm, and the CPU throttles to ~3Ghz on 4 cores (the CPU is of corse 4c/8t) while encoding videos for example.

 

I don't use eGPU and don't see a point for a laptop this old in 2017 (its like mooding a dinosaure), but in changing the HD 4000 powerplan I don't see a lot of difference between 350Mhz and 1.2Ghz from a heat perspective, even tough in benchmark I can have 50% more framerate. But, I do see an IMPORTANT difference in temperature when using CPU core-parking on Linux and Windows 10 (disabling 2 physical cores on the 4) where I go down as low as 3.5W for CPU power-consumption and I lose 10°C to 15°C in idle, idling at 45°C, same performance like a dual core.

 

Talking about eGPU, the main problem is that you could get better performance with a newer laptop or using a mini-ITX desktop PC, the problem with the 2570p is heat, noise, and heaviness. The laptop is pretty heavy. If I buy a laptop in 2017 I would buy a cheap ultra-book and a mini-ITX PC because the 2570p is old, and this feels on the everyday usage.

 

Also, the 3820qm is old, and must do a lot of task on the "CPU part" like encoding videos in h265 or watching 4K videos, which makes it noisy and gets the laptop hot.

 

Unfortunatly I think Intel stopped making socketed CPUs after the i7 4xxx and there was no refresh of the 2570 for the 4xxx series Intel CPU so we are pretty much stuck with the 2570p, maybe for ever.

 

I have a 65W adapter and don't have any problems like random rebooting, or battery discharging while burning the CPU, so I will say the contrary to what people usually recommend, 65W is suffisent even with a quad 45W CPU (I am myself shocked but its mainly because the CPU is limited to 40W so this leaves 25W for the rest of the laptop, which is somewhat suffisent).

 

Last, for the eGPU, again you would be better using the last gen ultrabooks because except for HEAVY gaming, pretty much all task hardware-acceleration wise, are integrated in the ultrabooks like 4K encoding-decoding and whatelse.

 

To resume, take the 2570p but only if it is at a good price with the CPU, I would say 70$ for the laptop and not more than 110$ for the i7 quad, this would make 180$ for the total which is good, but maybe not best when considering the 2570p heats a lot, have bad battery life by today's standards, is damn heavy, can be noisy, bad screen quality, and last but not least don't have software or bios or hardware mods even in 2017 which would change a lot of things (like heavy overclocking or underclocking, changing the screen, removing those shitty mini PCIe limitations, and a lot of things I forget)

 

Its true that the old laptops until the series 7 or 8 Intel i7 CPUs (and i5) where like dual cores for the mid-high end CPUs, but now there are quad i5 CPUs, putting the 2570p performance in competition. The only advantage is price. But you must consider the BIG flaws of the 2570p like heaviness (its damn heavy), and other things I mentioned.

 

Sorry for bad english, I am not native english speaker

Edited by juandante
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/30/2013 at 12:58 AM, Tech Inferno Fan said:

2570P wifi slot is half height. Hackintosh: PCI-E WiFi adapters for OS X advises to get one of these:

Mini PCI-Express (Half-Size):

Atheros AR5B93

Atheros AR5BHB92

Broadcom BCM94322HM8L

From that list, the BCM94322HM8L is readily available as shown at 100% Vanilla MINI PCIe WiFi Card tested on 10.6.8, 10.7.4, 10.8.1.

 

Hi,

Are these cards working on a HP 2570p ?

anybody who can confirm these cards are running on this laptop ?

Would certainly be interested if they are working on a HP 2570p ...

thanks

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On 10/20/2017 at 2:31 AM, aiamuzz said:

 

Hi,

Are these cards working on a HP 2570p ?

anybody who can confirm these cards are running on this laptop ?

Would certainly be interested if they are working on a HP 2570p ...

thanks

AzureWave Broadcom BCM94352HMB 802.11ac is what I use in windows 10, but no clue on the others. Sry.

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On 22.10.2017 at 5:02 AM, shikyo said:

AzureWave Broadcom BCM94352HMB 802.11ac is what I use in windows 10, but no clue on the others. Sry.

You just didn't search well. Several members use a BCM94352HMB. I use the BCM94352HMB wifi+BT4.0 too.

Edited by invait53
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  • 3 weeks later...

Does anyone else have issues controlling the fan speed?

 

I've tried HWinfo, Speedfan, TPFanControl and others, but none of them detect my fan RPM (ACPI?).

TPFanControl is the closest I've gotten to being able to control the fan, when I set the fan control to manual, it just makes the fan go 100%.

 

I'm running BIOS version F.67 and Windows 10.

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14 hours ago, gardiner said:

Does anyone else have issues controlling the fan speed?

 

I've tried HWinfo, Speedfan, TPFanControl and others, but none of them detect my fan RPM (ACPI?).

TPFanControl is the closest I've gotten to being able to control the fan, when I set the fan control to manual, it just makes the fan go 100%.

 

I'm running BIOS version F.67 and Windows 10.

 Actually I have NO issues controlling the fan speed. Funny but you didn't mention the two software you need, HPFanControl and Notebook Fan Control are all you need to complete your list.

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Hi guys. I want to ask for your help. I want to buy a second-hand 2570p, but all I see in the surplus shops are those equipped with 3320m processors. Unfortunately, these shops won't allow for me to open the case to see it the cpu inside is removable or not. I booted Manjaro off a USB (as the laptops doesn't have an OS installed) and installed an application i-Nex (similar to CPU-Z).

 

The app i-Nex reported the cpu inside to be of socket BGA1023. 

 

1) From what I learned so far, BGA processors are soldered on the motherboard. Does that mean the 2570ps I saw contained a soldered 3320m processors, making my plans to upgrade to 3612qm impossible?

 

2) Plus, do HP 2570ps with soldered cpus exist? Those I saw were 2nd-hand 2570ps from Japan.

 

3) How would I chose a 2570p that has a no soldered CPU if:

 

a) I'm not allowed to open the case (seller has those warranty stickers that will get broken if the case is opened), and

 

B) No OS installed on the laptop, so no CPU-z?

 

c) Store personnel are totally dumb about laptop internals.

 

Please advise me guys. I need to purchase one and upgrade the dual core to a quadcore. 

Edited by Onoakino
Typo.
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1 hour ago, Onoakino said:

1) From what I learned so far, BGA processors are soldered on the motherboard. Does that mean the 2570ps I saw contained a soldered 3320m processors, making my plans to upgrade to 3612qm impossible?

 

2) Plus, do HP 2570ps with soldered cpus exist? Those I saw were 2nd-hand 2570ps from Japan.

 

3) How would I chose a 2570p that has a no soldered CPU if:

 

a) I'm not allowed to open the case (seller has those warranty stickers that will get broken if the case is opened), and

 

1) You cannot upgrade a BGA processor unless you resolder it. Impossible for all practical purposes.

2) I don't believe that BGA 2570ps even exist. Anyone please correct me if I am wrong.

3) You can run something like Mini-Windows-XP from a USB, I use the one in Hirens Boot CD. Still not sure if CPU-Z will detect the socket type correctly.

 

I would generally advise you to google the exact model number.

 

Otherwise I am selling my 2570p and would gladly sell you the barebones, since I will be building a Toshiba C870 rig with the main components. But I don't know if you can even contact me about that, I think it is forbidden talking about buying/selling stuff here :D Probably you can look at the one and only "Custom 2570p" on Ebay.de and contact me there. Hope that is not that irregular thing to do.

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Thanks for replying @batyanko

 

If I can't find a socketed 2570p here in the Philippines, I think I'd consider the recommendation of choosing  to go Dell e6430. Not for anything, but ordering outside the country would inevitably raise the product cost, and I'm cash-strapped at the moment.

 

On your answer to number 2. I swear my eyes were not deceiving me  when I ran i-Nex (a Linux counterpart of CPU-Z) on all three 2570ps i was testing.

 

All three laptops had 3320M installed. All of the three showed the cpu socket type as BGA1023.

 

It's important to note that on Intel's product specifications page, the 3320M was listed to support two sockets -- FCBGA1023 and FCPGA988. i5 3320M Specs

 

I'm starting to think that the laptops are custom-made as the stickers left on the body of the laptops suggested it was intended for office use. Could it be that the company ordered a bga1023 configuration?

 

To those of you here who have a socketed motherboard, does your CPU-Z reflect you have a PGA988 socket procie?

 

Thanks!

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45 minutes ago, Onoakino said:

To those of you here who have a socketed motherboard, does your CPU-Z reflect you have a PGA988 socket procie?

 

I just tried both CPU-Z on a properly installed Windows 8.1, and I-nex on a live Linux Mint 18.1.

- CPU-Z reports a rPGA988B CPU.

- I-Nex reports BGA1224:

11122017182232843.png.371bb1832bd1f067edd23a2d203f93db.png

 

Since I have personally installed that 3720QM, I can sure tell there were more than enough pins on it :)

So I-nex seems to detect the wrong socket on this CPU, and by all chances the 2570ps have normal pin-sockets for replacable CPUs.

Edited by batyanko
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Thanks again @batyanko

 

Today, I can confirm that the 2570p's that I saw were all socketed.

 

I used HP PartSurfer to view all the components of a specific 2570p device. Using the serial number of the laptop and the country it originally came with, I was provided with a tabular list of all the laptop's components along with their part numbers. These part numbers can be googled and can be used as a reference when ordering part replacement from HP.

 

Anyway, using the HP PartSurfer, I confirm that the laptop has a socketed CPU (system board part number 685404-001) and it also list that the board is fitted with an i5 3320M cpu which also answers my question of wether the 3320m was soldered or not. The 3320M (681952-001 part number) can be ordered and therefore, can be removed and be replaced by a new one so it is not soldered. :D

 

Another thing, it also has Broadcom Model: BCM943228HM4L which is compatible with El Capitan if ever I decide to make a hackintosh out of it. Neat! :D

 

I'll purchase an Elitebook tomorrow. 

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Here she is!

 

Unfortunately I spoke too soon about the wifi card's hackintosh compatibility. The card it came was not supported. I still need to find a compatible wi-fi broadcom card. 

 

Btw, does the Elitebook 2570p came with Bluetooth module? I can't open my Elitebook yet because of the warranty. 

 

https://imgur.com/a/LQyNM

 

 

Edited by Onoakino
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23 hours ago, Onoakino said:

 

Btw, does the Elitebook 2570p came with Bluetooth module? I can't open my Elitebook yet because of the warranty. 

 

If you google "2570p bluetooth" and look at the images, it's the small green thingie between the speakers on the bottom front. Might even be visible througs a vent on the front, but I'm not sure (I never had the original cover :))

 

Granted you still got that live Linux USB stick, you can do something along the lines of "sudo lshw" on the terminal and see if it shows a bluetooth device or a "wireless" device that can be nothing else but bluetooth. Or try the answers in this thread:

https://askubuntu.com/questions/301458/how-can-i-tell-if-my-laptop-has-bluetooth

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I want to share my current success with CPU upgrade and heatsink mods. Might be some help to others.

 

Things in this post:

-3740QM experience

-Fan profile and HPFanControl experience(with dual core i7-3520m)

-heatsink mods

-3740QM stress test

 

First off the heatsink mods.

On top of the heatsink I glued 8 of the 20x20x1mm copper shims. In a 4x2 grid. I couldnt find any 20x20x2mm copper shims on Ebay at the time, if I did then I uused them and put them in a 4x1 grid instead.

I also glued 2 of the 15x15x2mm copper shims on each side of the heatsink-pipe.

I used Arctic Alumina to glue them.

5a18789fd7be0_topofheatsink.jpg.aa0dccda213aa35a1f50dcbd2cad7b32.jpg

 

In between the CPU and heatsink I placed a 20x20x1mm copper shim.

I used Collaboratory Liquid Ultra between the CPU and copper shim, and between the copper shim and heatsink I used Arctic Silver.

5a187a9ec744f_sandwhichcopper.jpg.70d2b7c14e6eb8cb933dfc7c29877abd.jpg

 

 

I set a custom fan profile using HPFanControl,

to remove the annoying constant fan ramp up and ramp down, which is like someone keeps turning a vacuum on and off all the time,

Now this annoying RPM jiggle was when I had my Dual Core 3520m... I haven't had enough time to test the standard BIOS fan profile with the 3740QM, during normal laptop usage yet.
The standard BIOS fan profile was making me insane when I used my 3520m, so this was really needed.

So the custom fan profile makes the laptop more quiet(by allowing it to hover on higher temperatures), when I do my normal stuff like browsing or YouTube.

 

Received the 3740QM today and installed it with the cooling mods, then set the maximum power limit to 99%.

I also ran the winsat tool again, just in case.

 

I ran an OCCT stress test to see if the laptop thermal throttles, TDP throttles, or just plainly crashes when the CPU is pushed to the max over a longer time.

I disabled my custom fan profile(HPFanControl) for this test, as I have not yet tested the HPFanControl with OCCT stress test, so I did not want my results to be broken by the use of a possibly bugged homemade fan profile.

I ran the test for 3.5h, using RealTemp to measure max CPU core temperatures(it has a fast polling rate), and HWInfo to verify there are no "Windows Hardware Error" counts, the max power usage, if any throttling occurs, and if the CPU frequency is stable at 2.7GHz(99% maximum limit in control center)

Results: Doesn't seem to be any throttling at all, and max CPU temperature was 93 degrees at an early point in the test, which tells that the maximum CPU temperature was not climbing with time. CPU frequency seemed pretty stable at 2.7GHz the whole test. The max CPU Package Power was 32.973 W(note the iGPU was not stress tested at all). Max CPU voltage was 0.941 V.

5a1883aaab096_2570p3740QM99LimitOCCTStresstesttemperaturepower(1).thumb.png.31857c79e0b35644bf642c3ed0f13f46.png

5a1883b0d20ef_2570p3740QM99LimitOCCTStresstesttemperaturepower(2).thumb.png.89447975f8846ef545f683cbe7884c51.png

 

 

Other notes:

I tried using Noctua NT-H1 but all of the paste would get pushed out of the sides of the CPU die, leaving the actual space between the die and heatsink without any paste...Arctic silver 5 worked better.

 

I've broken the heatsink of my macbook pro once by using Liquid metal on it. The liquid metal literally started to boil the heatsink, like one of those "science exploding foam" experiments, and split it in half, all while i was standing stumped and frozen by the experience. So I can't recommend using liquid metal directly on the heatsink, as a little particle of liquid metal that somehow gets leaked to other non-copper part of the heatsink starts to melt the whole metal block.

It should(hopefully) be fine if you use it between a copper shim and the CPU die, like I did here, as liquid metal and copper seems to work fine except a little color change on the copper with time. If the copper somehow gets unusable then just replace the copper shim. Better and cheaper than having to replace the whole heatsink.

 

I haven't tried throttlestop yet as I have not figured out how I should use it.

 

I haven't tried running a stress test with 100% max CPU limit yet, im pretty sure it will thermal throttle when running stress tests, but stress tests does not directly tell the story to most personal use cases. I'm looking for the temperature spikes during short bursts of high CPU usage, which should happen in most cases for me, like when browsing etc, and im pretty sure the CPU won't thermal throttle on those times. However I do watch a lot of YouTube in higher quality(1440p and 4K), and on an external monitor, so the CPU will be taxed over a longer time in that use case. What is most important for me is if my custom fan profile will silence the annoying fan ramping up/down.

Bottom line if it runs quiet then I will keep it at 100%, but if the fan needs to ramp up then I will run it at 99%.

 

I got a pair of Bose QC25 Active Noise Cancelling headphones to replace my old ANC headphones which I use almost all day, which silences any fan noise, even at max RPM, so I might allow the standard BIOS fan profile when I'm using the cans, as the profile is more aggressive. When I take my heaphones off while doing some CPU taxing activity I'll probably have to turn the custom fan profile on.

 

Conclusion: My laptop didn't burn down so im glad, also now I can watch 1440p60FPS high bitrate YouTube videos and Twitch 1080p60FPS streams without dropping multiple frames a second.(Couldn't do it with my dual core 3520m)

 

If theres any other tests anyone want me to do please give me a suggestions

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11 hours ago, gardiner said:

First off the heatsink mods.

On top of the heatsink I glued 8 of the 20x20x1mm copper shims. In a 4x2 grid. I couldnt find any 20x20x2mm copper shims on Ebay at the time, if I did then I uused them and put them in a 4x1 grid instead.

I also glued 2 of the 15x15x2mm copper shims on each side of the heatsink-pipe.

I used Arctic Alumina to glue them.

 

Good to hear that you got that 3740QM working. I would usually think that any QM would work on the 2570p, as I have a 3720QM myself, but last week I tried a 3630QM and it didn't POST. Still wondering if it was compatibility issue or just a broken CPU...

 

About that heatsink mod, it looks like a nice extra bit of mass to slow down heating, allowing you to use longer bursts of high performance. Are you thinking about adding anything else to it? The way it is, the total surface of the heatsink is pretty much the same as the stock heatsink, though copper might provide a slightly better heat dissipation. For what I understand, the layman formula for heat dissipation effectiveness looks something like this:

heatsink area * air circulation

(adjusted with some coeffitients / weights that I neither completely understand nor can really express mathematically :))

 

So, to really get more heat dissipation performance, you would either want to add a fan blowing at the heatsink, or add more heatsink surface. For example I like what @shikyo did with that extra fan without having to modify the bottom cover too much:

Now I'm writing all this because I really like the nice flat copper interface that you achieved there - it looks like the perfect base for adding more cooling. Specifically, I think it might be a nice idea to add some large system of aluminium fins, which can be bent conveniently to fit the available space under the hood. I have been considering something like that myself but haven't gotten around to do it. 

 

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1 hour ago, batyanko said:

Good to hear that you got that 3740QM working. I would usually think that any QM would work on the 2570p, as I have a 3720QM myself, but last week I tried a 3630QM and it didn't POST. Still wondering if it was compatibility issue or just a broken CPU...

 

Weird that it didnt POST for you. Seems others(from a quick google search) have gotten it to work. Some things to try could be updating BIOS to the latest version(or re-updating), running 1 stick of 1333 or 1600mhz RAM, resetting BIOS settings, updating Intel ME firmware(or re-update), increase the POST delay to 5-10 seconds...

 

1 hour ago, batyanko said:

Now I'm writing all this because I really like the nice flat copper interface that you achieved there - it looks like the perfect base for adding more cooling. Specifically, I think it might be a nice idea to add some large system of aluminium fins, which can be bent conveniently to fit the available space under the hood. I have been considering something like that myself but haven't gotten around to do it. 

 

I'm not planning on doing any other improvements for now, as I want the laptop to be portable and reliable. So stuff like cutting holes on the bottom of the case, placing fins that extend of the bottom of the laptop, adding another fan(dont think it will fit without doing any bottom case mods) doesn't seem very portable for me.

If anyone got any ideas that doesn't ruin portability and reliability then I'd be glad to hear it. From reading LOTS of pages on this post, the sandwhich mod, copper-on-top-of heatsink mod and the "increase mass of the copper pipe" mod seems to be the most easy and efficient mods there.

I had an old macbook where I cut holes on the bottom of the case, which i regretted because it turned my laptop into a vacuum which sucked everything which was under it, making it super dusty and dirty real quickly inside. It was great to quickly get the CPU 10 degrees cooler, but long term it hurt the macbook.

 

A crazy idea would be to build a dock for it, where the dock extends the heatsink by connecting to a larger heatsink, and has a fan itself.

You could use a thermal pad, which makes contact with the copper grid on the laptop, and makes the connection to maybe copper base on the dock, which then has some copper pipes extending to the back of the laptop where a larger heatsink with a fan resides.

So when you want to dock it, you can just pop the bottom hatch open and place it on the dock, it should run more quiet and cooler.

When you want to undock, you just lift the laptop off the dock and put the bottom hatch back on.

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9 minutes ago, gardiner said:

Weird that it didnt POST for you.

Yep, that was sure supposed to work. I already returned it to the seller who supposedly had the 3630QM working on a Lenovo T530, so I cannot check that anymore. Here in my country we have a postal service that gives you 15 minutes to check if the thing works, so there is no room for trying a lot of things.

 

13 minutes ago, gardiner said:

I'm not planning on doing any other improvements for now, as I want the laptop to be portable and reliable.

 

I totally agree with that, 2570p is supposed to be portable, and anyway the four i7 cores at 2.7GHz have a whole lot more performance than two i5 cores.

What I was thinking of was a system of aluminium fins that fit somewhere *inside* the laptop, but that would  take quite some tinkering and imagination. Otherwise of course, if you go out of the bottom cover you can put fans and heatsinks all over the place, but then it sure won't be that compact anymore.

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Hi. I'm new owner of this laptop. I found on this topic that 2570p use one line lvds, so use hd+ and fhd screen is impossible. what  options at 1366x768 resolution ? only LTN125AT02 ? maybe exist better ? my laptop without any screen now. and I don't know what to buy.

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I found a better way to disable Turbo boost. This is by far the easiest way to go if you're upgrading to a quad core.

IMO its easy to do, set up and forget, instead of having to use a 3rd party program.

I don't think its been talked about before here, but yeah here it is.

 

You keep the "Maximum processor state" to its standard setting of 100%

but then you install a registry tweak which will enable a new setting in the Advanced Power Options, called "Processor performance boost mode".

You set that to "Disabled" and it will completely disable Turbo Boost.

 

Results:

results.thumb.JPG.333cb2b6b6d8b59f42b26a188e3f0b77.JPG

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