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12 hours ago, dragunbayne said:

@Tech Inferno Fan I got a smoking deal on a 2570p on eBay and have been working on setting it up and decking it out. I got diy egpu 1.3 and I cannot get aspm to work. Any guidance? I have the 9 cell batter and get just shy of 8 hours battery and really think it should be better.

 

A step-by-step process for enabling ASPM is at https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/1982-125-hp-elitebook-2570p-owners-lounge/#comment-35271

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I got it working and all is well. This little thing is pretty awesome. I got a brand new 9 cell battery for it, along with the BCM AC wireless card, Samsung 850 Evo, Core i7 3740QM, and 16GB of low voltage corsair memory. I'm hoping to eventually setup egpu and get a second SSD to swap for the ODD. Does anyone know if some of the newer Nvidia cards are plug and play, like the 1050?

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51 minutes ago, dragunbayne said:

Does anyone know if some of the newer Nvidia cards are plug and play, like the 1050?

 

AFAIK, GTX650/750/9xx/10xx and AMD cards all require a 256MB+ PCIe aperture. The 2570P BIOS TOLUD setting will not allow those to be allocated into 32-bit space hence require a DSDT override for allocation into 36/64-bit space:  https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/5874-guide-dsdt-override-to-fix-error-12/

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4 hours ago, Tech Inferno Fan said:

 

AFAIK, GTX650/750/9xx/10xx and AMD cards all require a 256MB+ PCIe aperture. The 2570P BIOS TOLUD setting will not allow those to be allocated into 32-bit space hence require a DSDT override for allocation into 36/64-bit space:  https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/5874-guide-dsdt-override-to-fix-error-12/

 

OK, I figured that was the case. A 1060 should be fine? Forgive my lack of graphics card knowledge, it's my PC weak point. If I understand correctly any xx60 card should be fine? The 1060 seems a good option as it's TDP is low enough to work with the Dell adapter and it is readily available.

 

Edit: I just reread what you said. A 1060 would also need that done. So another question to add on. Other than the trouble of doing the DSDT override, is there any drawback?

Edited by dragunbayne
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5 hours ago, dragunbayne said:

 

OK, I figured that was the case. A 1060 should be fine? Forgive my lack of graphics card knowledge, it's my PC weak point. If I understand correctly any xx60 card should be fine? The 1060 seems a good option as it's TDP is low enough to work with the Dell adapter and it is readily available.

 

Edit: I just reread what you said. A 1060 would also need that done. So another question to add on. Other than the trouble of doing the DSDT override, is there any drawback?

 

If the DSDT override is performed as an in-memory substitution via Setup 1.30, then there are no drawbacks. It can also be very easily editted/removed in case it causes a BSOD on bootup.

 

If TESTSIGNING is enabled to allow a registry DSDT override, then it can affect Windows operation. TESTSIGNING would need to be disabled via a Safe Boot to disable the DSDT override if it caused a BSOD.

 

When I had my 2570P I didn't get a BSOD due to the DSDT override, Though I stopped updating the BIOS. I did see some BIOS updates change the ACPI table addresses which could cause the DSDT table to BSOD.

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Hi Guys,

just wanted to say thanks again for compiling all that Information about the 2570p, and also for the friendly professional and FREE support. Before I got mine, phillofoc pointed me in the right direction for choosing the CPU. Right now I was looking for and found a wifi ac-mod. It's nice of Tech Inferno Fan to still take care about this topic even after change of hardware (if I read your signature correctly).
My little "beast" is in productive use now for little more than 1,5 years, I'm still smiling when compiling code or starting up a bunch of VMs. Nice to see that a quad-modded 2570p still "eats" most other business subnotebooks "for breakfast", no need to upgrade yet.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey people,

 

I wanted to share my modifications on a 2570p I bought recently. I got most of the ideas from this thread, so I thought it should be common courtesy to at least share the result.

 

To begin with, I used a second hand, kind of bare-bones 2570p for around $60 that had no battery/charger/RAM/HDD. That was alright because I would have to replace most of that stuff anyway.
I went for 2x 240GB Patriot Ignite SSDs in RAID-0 (software setup on Linux Mint), 16 GB DDR3-1600 and a Core-i7 3720QM. No eGPU needed here, as I currently need performance for Android development.

 

Now what might be interesting here is the cooling mod I did for the 3720QM. The processor runs all cores quite nicely at 3400 Mhz, but temperature reaches 87°C in less than a minute and cores start falling to 3300 or 3200 Mhz. Actually not that bad if you only need short bursts of performance, like occasionaly compiling small Android projects. 

 

However I wanted to lower those temps at least a bit. I put the laptop upside down and started experimenting, sticking various old heatsinks to the CPU heatsink with some MX-4 thermal paste. Though these temporarily lowered the temperature, it eventually continued increasing as the heatsink heated up, going up to 87°C and throttling down.
I could achieve some lasting results using the radiator of an old graphics card, but that was hardly a practical laptop mod, as you can see on the pic.IMG_20161109_003216.jpg
 
So I decided to try an fix some kind of active cooling which is slim enough to enable the laptop standing on its bottom :)) 
First I tried to fit a small 100mA-fan directly on the CPU heatsink, but that didn't change the heat dissipation either. However I had ordered myself a laptop fan from Aliexpress for around $2 in the meanwhile, and that one blew a whole lot stronger (I guess it uses up to 0.5 A at 5 Volts).

Next thing was to buy myself an old heatsink from a local repair shop and fit it on top of the old heatsink. And here is what came up from that:

IMG_20161210_214709.jpg

Having a separate heatsing and fan actually allowed me some flexibility to fit the whole thing on the chassis. You will notice that the fan is on the "wrong" side of the radiator. I put it there to avoid interfering with the other fan intake.

With the fan connected to a USB-Port, the CPU now runs a whole 11-15°C cooler than with the original cooling (tested at 3200Mhz to enable comparing with standard cooling).

At 3400 Mhz x 8 cores, temperature would stabilize at around 85°C (room temperature around 20°C).

 

Next step was to fix the whole think on the chassis, so that it doesn't fall off. Note that the wire-thingy fix wasn't quite successful, so I decided to use Arctic Silver Alumina Adhesive. Anyway I didn't expect to manage any better cooling solution than this, so a permanent glue was fine.

 

And the final step was to fix some kind of bottom cover to protect the components while carrying (did I mention that the bottom cover was missing in the first place :))

 bought myself some large loudspeaker cover for $4, which was made of some rather soft metal, which allowed me to cut it at the right places by bending. It was quite a tedious work, to be honest, but I finally shaped it to the needed form. It happened to fit quite well, using several cable ties to fix it with the chassis.

Some day I might take the time to sand the rest of the black paint/foil, which turned out to be quite a hard job. Also it would be nice to replace the duct tape and white carton-thingies with something better-looking.

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Screenshot from 2016-12-30 23-36-58.png

Edited by batyanko
Would appreciate if someone tell me to make the pics take less space :))
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hey guys i haven't posted in a while just wanted to give some updates on my 2570p so far.

 

it's still running the stock i5- 3320m, but i'd like to install the i7-3740qm, i just need someone to chime in with the confirmation that cpu is 100% pure drop in compatible. If it is i'll snag one and get it done. 

 

still only have 8 gb of Crucial Ballistix Sport 1600 1.35v, haven't really seem the need to upgrade to 16gb yet, but if prices are good, i might look into it. but if i make the cpu upgrade does anybody know if i can get faster ram too? like from 1600 to 1800 or 2100?

 

Samsung 850 evo

 

AzureWave Broadcom BCM94352HMB 802.11ac

 

UJ152 Blu-Ray CD/DVD-RW Drive

 

usb 3.0 expresscard, only 3 ports would work at a time in win 7 but now all 4 work in win 10.

 

i put a hole under the bottom case cover for the fan to breathe air in, it's still rough, i need to drill a cleaner hole and add the holey bottom mod to get more air in there. I've contacted the company that originally made the fan to see whether or not i can swap out the blower fan with a better one that pushes more cfm's no response yet. 

 

i cut, drilled and modded a 7oz copper plate to fit over the heatsink of the cpu as well as added four 25x25x.5mm copper square shims to above the fins next to the fan with GELID extreme thermal compound.

 

also using the HP 90watt power adapter and the HP SX09 9cell 8850mah or 85670mWh

 

also just upgraded to win 10 from 7, runs nice and smooth still. No driver issues.

 

I honestly love this laptop. it's perfect for me as i'm a real estate photographer. I take it with me everywhere and it's small and light and does not get in the way at all. The long battery life is great and the matte screen helps me edit/upload pictures in the bright sun from the car. 

 

The only things i count as cons are the the obvious no backlit keyboard, lack of 1080 screen and weak webcam. One day in the future i'm going to look into the keyboard/screen issues and try to mod something to work, long term project i know. I would like a better built in webcam, it would be cool if we could retrofit a better one in there. 

 

or what about adding a brighter led to the bezel for typing at night. 

 

either way, glad to see the forum is still going strong. glad to see both vets and new users coming together. cheers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

copper.jpg

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oh and i also tried these two heatsinks for compatibility or mod-ability and neither would work. I like the designs though. i was always mistaken thinking more copper would solve the problem till i learned it only absorbed it and stored it raising my temps. I ultimately just need a better way to expel the heat out hence the better fan approach. 

heatsink.jpg

heatsink2.jpg

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9 hours ago, shikyo said:

it's still running the stock i5- 3320m, but i'd like to install the i7-3740qm, i just need someone to chime in with the confirmation that cpu is 100% pure drop in compatible. If it is i'll snag one and get it done. 

 

My 3720QM would fit and run straight away on the place of the old 3210M, I think it is as close to 100% as you will ever get. These 3.-gen processors seem to be quite freely interchangeable, I did a similar job on a Lenovo E330 laptop as well, the BIOS recognized the new CPU automatically. Worst case scenario would be having to update BIOS (I had just updated mine on the 2570p).

 

BTW I like that copper plate you put there, looks like a nice base for additional cooling. Since you can machine the copper parts, you can find yourself some longer screws and replace the original 4 ones to fix the new cooling directly on the old one. I used thermal glue to fix mine, but it's a messy job.

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thanks. at the time it was a rush job, so i just cut it as big as i could while still letting the bottom cover fit and drilled the 4 holes. i used some metal epoxy to glue it on top of the original heatsink because i couldn't figure out how to remove the screws from it. the plate itself is pretty thick, but i think to be able to fully replace the stock heatsink with pure copper i would have to get a new piece of copper 2-3 times the thickness of this plate. and then somehow affix the copper elbow and radiator fins, i'm guessing some kind of welding. All that sounds doable but it still gets me thinking about how now i'll be absorbing more heat and retaining it with the same cfms. If i can get the turbine upgraded in the same housing then yes i'll do that for sure. 

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If you find a more powerful fan that fits there, that would be quite interesting to know. Maybe something maxing at 0,5 A or more, I imagine the motherboard should at least be able to supply 0,5 A.

 

With the additional copper you are totally right that it just absorbs the heat without necessarily dissipating it faster. But anyway I find that to be of big advantage for day-to-day usage - the CPU takes just a few seconds on 100% load for usual tasks, like loading a website or similar. The extra copper absorbs the extra heat just fine and dissipates it later, when the CPU is idle.

 

Otherwise it would be hard to really lower the temperatures without another fan, or tons of additional heat sink real estate.

For example you can have a look at that video card heat sink that I tried (4-5 posts ago, first pic) - that was one HUGE heat sink, having maybe a total real estate 2-3 times the area of a laptop heat sink.

And yet it performed worse than my current setup with 2nd fan (second pic), lowering max temperatures with about 6-7°C vs. 11-15°C.

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Good day everyone. Recently i wanted to change ssd and clean fans in my 2570p, but I couldn't open the back door. The switcher (or how is that thing called, you switch it and back door comes off) - goes half way and stops. There's also a sound of probably jammed string. The switcher to take off battery comes off fine.
Can someone take a photo of back cover or laptop and circle the mounting points of backdoor?
And if anyone had similar problems - how did you fix it?

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I will post mine within few days. Just left home for a trip.

 

And anyone here have problems with frame rates? I have successfully do the DSDT thing, Windows pick up the card, Optimus engaged... but have very terrible fps in Call of Duty 2 or 3 with the internal screen (1x, very laggy). But I got stable 4x (near max settings)with Batman Arkham City?

Edited by egpuer
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On 1/3/2017 at 2:10 PM, batyanko said:

If you find a more powerful fan that fits there, that would be quite interesting to know. Maybe something maxing at 0,5 A or more, I imagine the motherboard should at least be able to supply 0,5 A.

 

With the additional copper you are totally right that it just absorbs the heat without necessarily dissipating it faster. But anyway I find that to be of big advantage for day-to-day usage - the CPU takes just a few seconds on 100% load for usual tasks, like loading a website or similar. The extra copper absorbs the extra heat just fine and dissipates it later, when the CPU is idle.

 

Otherwise it would be hard to really lower the temperatures without another fan, or tons of additional heat sink real estate.

For example you can have a look at that video card heat sink that I tried (4-5 posts ago, first pic) - that was one HUGE heat sink, having maybe a total real estate 2-3 times the area of a laptop heat sink.

And yet it performed worse than my current setup with 2nd fan (second pic), lowering max temperatures with about 6-7°C vs. 11-15°C.

 

 

yeah I'm pretty excited, i got most of these parts in already and am just awaiting the msi fan and the skived heatsink. My plan is to take apart the stock heatsink and remove the aluminum, then trim down the copper heatsink to 50x60mm to fit in the cpu area. I will be removing some unused black plastic from the cpu area from the case to allow more copper to fit. I have to also trim down most of the fins (to the red line height) and then weld the copper pipe on the top side of the heatsink once i notch out some fins to allow the center to be bare (area in red), either that or notch out a groove on the bottom to let it slide under like the stock heatsink. I figure more copper to make contact with is better, fins for cooling, and then mount the fan. For the fan to work, all i have to do is trim down the height just a tad as well as a little bit off the sides. My measurements say it should fit perfectly between the screws of the cpu socket and then just drill out a hold on the bottom lid. I'll also need to drill a few screw holes on the new heatsink to accept the fan, as well as find a way to power it. It's all in theory as of now but i hope it works. I'll keep yall posted. All this should fit fine once i add some new rubber feet that are a bit taller. That will give me some extra space to let that fan breathe under there. I finally got the new quad core installed and it's running very nice. I didn't know this but i found out turbo boost doesn't work on battery only plugged in. 

 

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dremel.jpg

fan2.jpg

Edited by shikyo
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On ‎12‎/‎21‎/‎2013 at 6:51 PM, Tech Inferno Fan said:

INFO: How to choose the most efficient 45W i7-quad

Summary: recommend a i7-3720QM or i7-3740QM/i7-3820QM as best value CPU upgrades with at most 9% performance variation between the three. The i7-37xxQM or i7-38xxQM being more power efficient, if battery life is important than the i7-36xxQM CPUs.

@bjorm, I recently tested three i7-3740QM CPUs, all SR0UV spec. Notebookcheck says these have up to x35 4-core mode here. Results below for them. I skipped from x13 to x22, starting at x23 to see the ramp up to the the highest non-turbo freq (x27) of the lowest end 45W i7-quad (i7-3610QM).

Comparing the best (#1) and worst (#3) we find there is quite a difference between them. The more efficient one runs x12 at 0.1051V lower, can run x34 even engaging x35 for some time (2mins with bottom cover off) until presumably thermal limits start seeing it pull back the multiplier. It runs x34 at 0.04V and 3.6W TDP lower than the worst one's x33 multiplier. It's x34 mode using the same power as if the the worst was running at x31.5!! The worse one will not run at x35 let alone x34.

 

Hi, I've just joined after getting into what seems like a vat of molasses.

Looking for a travelling laptop, small size and cheap in case it is stolen, I settled on a battered (Big dent in lid but working fine), HP 2540p for£65 off eBay.

All went well until I found this forum telling me I had bought the wrong one for fiddling, [upgrades].

 

I love fiddling so looking again I came up trumps [no USA puns here], there is a German firm selling brand new still in HP boxes 2570p's for just €270 (£217) but with a German keyboard.

A new UK keyboard from China (I suspect), was an extra £24 although fitting it was a trial of patience involving a very stiff upper lip. 

I found prising off the frame between the keys without bending it extremely taxing. My best solution was to use a lolly stick twisting it gently did the trick.

Next time I pay more complete with a frame and keep my hair.

 

I followed the recommendations on here gluing copper to the heat sink, whacking in giant Ripsaw (idiot name) RAM and an Intel WiFi card so I now connect to 5G even in deepest France. 

 

I have a 1Tb Hybrid SSD drive cloned with WIN7 32bit OS as supplied on the original HP drive.

Upgraded to WIN10.

Incidentally, if you download WIN10, burn a DVD it will still activate using the WIN7 CoA! 

 

This is when I seemed to be wading into the molasses. 

 

This is where it got me really bogged down.

I bought a CPU Prozessor QuadCore Intel Core i7-3740QM 8x 2,7 GHz Socket FCPGA988 also from Germany.

It won't fire up past an initial HDD lights on and a blinking cursor.

Shikyo (must be careful with the name), is asking if this processor is compatible.

So am I.

 

I am very careful with handling processors so all the pins are erect and in line, due no doubt, to all the oysters I eat.   

I now wonder if the processor needs the OS to be 64bit to recognise the BIOS; I have updated the BIOS but to no avail.

 

My problem was the computer refusing to allow WIN10 64bit and using the advice on line doesn't work for me.

Either the Upgrade or OS says the computer isn't compatible although CPU-Z shows all the boxes are ticked and it is good to go.

This machine is dancing along quite nicely on the i5 but now an expensive i7 chip seems to have activated article 50 prematurely.  

Computer says no.

 

ANY advice out there to help would be appreciated. Regards, Brian.

 

  

 

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yo nich66

 

I took the plunge and was able to get mine to work instantly. I did nothing other than remove old cpu, clean and apply new tp, and reapply heatsink and it fired right up. 

 

I'm also on win 10- 64 bit, but i have bios ver f.40, idk if that makes a difference. 

 

if it were me, i would honestly try another win 10 installation, the way I did it was instead of using the usb method with rufus i think, I just ran it from the desktop inside of windows 7 on this machine and just chose to keep all files and apps and it installed fine first try. Now its super smooth and zippy. 

 

this is the version i am using-

Windows 10 X64 v1607 build 14393.576 en-US Dec 2016

cpu.JPG

mb.JPG

win10.JPG

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On 1/6/2017 at 1:19 PM, surLeinad said:

Good day everyone. Recently i wanted to change ssd and clean fans in my 2570p, but I couldn't open the back door. The switcher (or how is that thing called, you switch it and back door comes off) - goes half way and stops. There's also a sound of probably jammed string. The switcher to take off battery comes off fine.
Can someone take a photo of back cover or laptop and circle the mounting points of backdoor?
And if anyone had similar problems - how did you fix it?

hey 

so i'm not too sure i understood what pics you wanted, but i can tell you i have the exact problem

 

the battery ejects perfect, but the back door cover has always been a pain. it won't go all the way, so i just push it that direction and then i just use my nail at the crack and push down and it opens just fine. sometimes it needs a tug but other than that once i found out how to get it open, i just had to accept it was either a faulty switch or the bad design. I currently have my back lid with a hole where the cpu fan is for better breathing, now that i got my dremel kit in, i'll be drilling a much nicer perfect hold exactly where it needs to be in my new replacement lid. when i do that i'll be sure to try to mod the old cover at the holding brackets to see if any modding will allow it to open and close easier, if that works i'll take some pictures so you can see where i grinded down to make it easier, i hope that works. i'll keep you posted. 

 

btw i posted these shots of the switch we are talking about at resting/switched position, hope that helps

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Edited by shikyo
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On 1/11/2017 at 0:59 AM, nich666 said:

This is where it got me really bogged down.

I bought a CPU Prozessor QuadCore Intel Core i7-3740QM 8x 2,7 GHz Socket FCPGA988 also from Germany.

It won't fire up past an initial HDD lights on and a blinking cursor.

Shikyo (must be careful with the name), is asking if this processor is compatible.

So am I.

 

I am very careful with handling processors so all the pins are erect and in line, due no doubt, to all the oysters I eat.   

I now wonder if the processor needs the OS to be 64bit to recognise the BIOS; I have updated the BIOS but to no avail.

 

My problem was the computer refusing to allow WIN10 64bit and using the advice on line doesn't work for me.

Either the Upgrade or OS says the computer isn't compatible although CPU-Z shows all the boxes are ticked and it is good to go.

This machine is dancing along quite nicely on the i5 but now an expensive i7 chip seems to have activated article 50 prematurely.  

Computer says no.

 

Nice machine you got there... Regarding that keyboard - the aliexpress one I currently doesn't quite have the same quality as a genuine one. Keys require a bit of effort pressing.

 

Now about the CPU:

Do you at least get access to BIOS / boot options menu with the 3740QM? If not, this should have little to do with the OS.

Anyway if you want to be 100% sure, you can try with a live USB-stick running Linux, for example. It is quite easy to make one, for example using Rufus: https://rufus.akeo.ie/ .

Otherwise the computer should be 100% 64-bit compatible (heck just about any PC from the last 10 years is 64-bit-compatible). Probably some Microsoft license thing.


One thing I didn't find in your post - did you get yourself a 90W power supply? According to older posts, you cannot even boot running a 45W CPU without one.

 

If it doesn't get to boot or show BIOS, there should be a compatibility issue or a defective CPU. I cannot really imagine how the former is possible - maybe if you got some custom model 2570p or something.

If nothing else works, I would try the CPU on another Ivy-Bridge laptop running some Pentium B*** or Core CPU. Should normally run straight off the box. Please keep us updated.

 

On 1/10/2017 at 4:01 AM, shikyo said:

yeah I'm pretty excited, i got most of these parts in already and am just awaiting the msi fan and the skived heatsink.

 

shikyo, if you manage to fit that fan in there, that will be one kick ass cooling solution :)) Really cool indeed that you can trim all those part to make them fit. Just be careful with those heat pipes, those repair shop guys stressed that a lot when I was looking at some old heat sinks (and these were the optimistic repair guys, the others were mostly rambling about how you cannot add cooling to a laptop, because, you see, it is not made to have additional cooling :)).

 

So, supposedly there is quite some danger while bending / working with the copper pipe, because the tunnel inside is very narrow and may become congested, blocking the circulation of the cooling gas inside. Or of course if there is a breach, the gas will just go away and heat transfer will be much weaker.

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just a little update:

I managed to remove that little bit of case next to the cpu socket, it's not a lot, but it's a little bit more copper for the heatsink. Still waiting on the fan to get here, shouldn't be much longer. I have the heatsink in hand and am starting to shape it tomorrow. my biggest concern is cutting those fins and not damaging them too much. I'll also be removed the heat pipe from the stock heatsink tomorrow too. I read the best way was to just bake it a little and they would fall apart. hopefully all goes well. once the fan comes in and i shape it to fit, i'll post some more pics and toss some ideas around for placement. 

cpu.jpg

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Having been lurking for a while, the forum has been a real help in deciding whether to get a 2570P, I thought I'd be brave and speak up! I'm most impressed by the knowledge shown by you all, puts me to shame.

I'm impressed with the 2570P, mine has the i7-3520M, and I've put W10 on a Samsung 840 EVO. Not the fastest, I know, but it was on the shelf doing nothing .

I have a couple of questions if I may.

1. Has anyone updated to F.64 BIOS? I have F.33 (in legacy), which is out of the ark but I have no problems that I'm aware of. I reckon 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' but would F.64 be worth doing. I notice that HP say that once installed it can't be reverted.

2. Has anyone managed to use the GPS in the un2430 WWAN module in W10. It looks to me as if it's not supported after W7. 

 

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4 hours ago, DavidRM said:

Having been lurking for a while, the forum has been a real help in deciding whether to get a 2570P, I thought I'd be brave and speak up! I'm most impressed by the knowledge shown by you all, puts me to shame.

I'm impressed with the 2570P, mine has the i7-3520M, and I've put W10 on a Samsung 840 EVO. Not the fastest, I know, but it was on the shelf doing nothing .

I have a couple of questions if I may.

1. Has anyone updated to F.64 BIOS? I have F.33 (in legacy), which is out of the ark but I have no problems that I'm aware of. I reckon 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' but would F.64 be worth doing. I notice that HP say that once installed it can't be reverted.

2. Has anyone managed to use the GPS in the un2430 WWAN module in W10. It looks to me as if it's not supported after W7. 

 

yeah it was a big help for me too, i got a 2560p first, then sold it for a 2570p. 

 

all i can tell you about bios is from what i was able to find briefly.

 

I currently have f.40, i had an older one, don't remember which but i stopped at f.40 cause i think i read something about not being able to go backwards.

then i confirmed that my $20  AzureWave Broadcom BCM94352HMB 802.11ac WLAN +BT 4.0 PCIE Network Card Laptop works with f.40. 

next i read from page 1 that "badbadbad" has the same wifi card and then from page 23 that when he asked if going to f.45 from his f.44 if he would lose wifi whitelist and someone chimed in that he would not and also confirmed ME firmware would still work. Also that from f.42 to f.45 ME still worked. End result looks like he stayed with f.45 and was able to keep ac wireless.

 

So if you look here 

http://h20566.www2.hp.com/hpsc/swd/public/detail?sp4ts.oid=5284308&swItemId=ob_177417_1&swEnvOid=4192#tab-history

 

it shows you each enhancement per bios update and from f.40 to f.45 now that we know i won't lose wifi, the benefits in those enhancements seem worth me trying. So i guess if it's worth it to you upgrade. Normally i would agree, if it aint broke don't upgrade, but in my case he confirmed i can upgrade with no issue, so i'll be doing that as soon as i finish my heatsink project here soon. 

 

as for question #2 i have no idea, nor do i know what that is, i'd like to know now that you bring it up, please share if you don't mind. 

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