1492 posts in this topic
I want to share the modded Bios I created for the Acer Aspire E5-572G notebook.
The official bios 1.09 was used as a base.
I'm offering three flavours: Microcode 01, Microcode 07 and Microcode 21.
Microcode 21 is the latest available microcode, this is the Bios you want to use unless you want the special properties of the other microcodes.
Microcode 07 is the latest microcode that allows using the full turbo clock speed on all cores (using single core turbo with all cores).
Microcode 01 is the one you should take if you want to try this. I wasn't able to get it to work on mine (i5 4210m, HM86), but your mileage may vary.
In case you want to always use an older microcode, I'm offering a script for windows that'll keep the OS from using a newer microcode (compatible with Windows Vista to Windows 10). Frequency and other things can be set up with ThrottleStop (use the latest version).
I've also included an overclocking enabled ME firmware that should (hopefully) allow overclocking on the HM87 equipped notebooks.
There are two flavours of this notebook available: Ones that use the HM87 chipset and others that use the HM86 chipset. Overclocking is only possible with HM87 as HM86 isn't capable of overclocking (tested it myself).
Additionally I offer a collection of Bios, EC, ME and FD files of this device, in case anyone wants to experiment with these for a bit (EC Modding, etc.).
I will update this bios in case there are newer parts available.
Any feedback is welcome!
-Advanced Bios Options unlocked (Advanced, Power tabs and additional options in the existing tabs)
-Nvidia 840M/940M VBioses replaced with adapted 940MX VBios with unlocked TDP Limit, unlocked Boost Table and some OC (1306,5MHz GPU/1070MHz Memory - with general usability in mind) + all voltage sliders unlocked
-Intel Management Engine: Updated to 126.96.36.1992 + All Locks Unlocked + Overclocking Enabled For HM87 Notebooks + PAVP (Protected Audio/Video Path) Enabled
-Flash Descriptor unlocked
-Microcode updated to version 21 (respectively downgraded to 07 and 01)
-Intel GOP Driver updated to 5.5.1033
-Intel VGA Bios updated to 1042
-Intel RST OROMs updated to 188.8.131.525
-Realtek Lan OROMs updated to 2.037/2.64
-Applied a few useful BIOS patches by CodeRush (Unlock CPU Power Management Register (useful for Hackintosh Users)/Disable BIOS Lock/Disable SMI Lock)
1. Copy the BIOS file to an empty and with FAT16/32 formatted usb stick.
2. Unplug the AC adapter.
3. Remove the battery of the notebook - you can unlock the battery on the backside.
4. Plug in the USB flash disk.
5. Press and hold <Fn> and <Esc>, and then plug in the AC adapter while still holding <Fn> and <Esc>.
6. Press the Power button. You can now stop holding <Fn> and <Esc>.
7. The BIOS flash should now begin, the fans will spin up at max speed and the power led should blink. It should take between one to two minutes.
8. After everything is done, you can reinsert the battery and go to the BIOS (F2). There you may want to change some settings (the BIOS flash erases all previously chosen settings).
Recommended Bios settings:
F12 Boot Menu ---> Enabled
D2D Recovery ---> Disabled
Boot Configuration: Numlock ---> On
Thermal Configuration: Cpu Thermal Configuration: Bi-Directional PROCHOT# ---> Disabled
Chipset Configuration: RTC Lock ---> Disabled
Chipset Configuration: IFR Update ---> Disabled
Chipset Configuration: BIOS Lock ---> Disabled
ACPI Table/Features Control: TCO WatchDog Support ---> Enabled
ACPI Table/Features Control: WatchDog ACPI Table ---> Enabled
ACPI Table/Features Control: ACPI Memory Debug ---> Disabled
ACPI Table/Features Control: PEP Graphics ---> Disabled
Extended ICC: Use WatchDog Timer For ICC ---> Enabled
Extended ICC: ICC Locks after EOP ---> All Unlocked
User Access Level ---> Full
Wake on LAN ---> Disabled
Advanced CPU Control: xAPIC Mode ---> Enabled
Advanced CPU Control: Package C-State Demotion ---> Enabled
Advanced CPU Control: Package C-State Un-Demotion ---> Enabled
Advanced CPU Control: ACPI 5.0 CPPC Support ---> Enabled
Advanced CPU Control: ACPI 5.0 CPPC Platform SCI ---> Enabled
Advanced CPU Control: Package Power Limit MSR Lock ---> Disabled
Advanced CPU Control: Long Term Power Limit Override ---> Enabled
Advanced CPU Control: Long Term Time Window ---> 128
Module names (for replacement/update):
GOP Driver: 7755CA7B-CA8F-43C5-889B-E1F59A93D575_256.ROM
Intel RST: 382F560D-17A9-4887-BD9C-EB439C1CC482_1654.ROM and 501737AB-9D1A-4856-86D3-7F1287FA5A55_1781.ROM
Intel VGA Bios: 8DFAE5D4-B50E-4C10-96E6-F2C266CACBB6_1743.ROM
Nvidia 840M VBios: D336DBCB-33C1-4D15-A06F-C3FF405C6A68_1749.ROM
Nvidia 940M VBios: C09F4207-D557-47D0-A4B5-1E4B6459E519_1761.ROM
Realtek LAN: 0A33D14A-7B60-4C58-9194-DED0812F9B2B_1767.ROM and E8991F69-D813-4116-A2C2-61E304ECBD72_1533.ROM
Intel Microcode (integrated in file): PADDING_2702.ROM
Management Engine: Integrated in BIOS image, HEX Editor needed for replacement
Credits: -BDMaster from Bios-Mods.com for providing the way to unlock the bios
-Donovan6000 for his very helpful guides and insights on Insyde bios modding
-Andy P whose PhoenixTool I used to replace the modules
-Plutomaniac for providing the used Intel ME firmware and the Intel ME System Tools to properly configure it for this notebook
-Ultrax5 from TechInferno for providing his OC enabled ME firmware for 8-series systems which I used as a reference to unlock the feature for this notebook
-SoniX for his Intel VGA Bios update guide and the OROM, Microcode and Intel VGA Bios database he maintains
-Pacman for sharing the latest Intel RST 184.108.40.2065 OROMs
-CodeRush for providing the included BIOS patches
-WerePug from overclock.net for providing the way to unlock the Nvidia VBIOS voltage sliders for editing in Maxwell II BIOS Tweaker
-The author of the Maxwell II BIOS Tweaker which I used for editing the Nvidia VBioses
-All the other people who shared the used OROMs/Microcodes/Firmwares/Useful Information etc.
-13.09.16: 1.09a - Initial release
Unlocked a few more options that I missed before - everything that can be unlocked should be available now
Overclocking enabled ME is now included by default (no disadvantages for HM86 notebooks)
Applied a few useful BIOS patches by CodeRush (Unlock CPU Power Management Register (useful for Hackintosh Users)/Disable BIOS Lock/Disable SMI Lock)
Changed Nvidia GPU idle voltage from 0,94V to a more correct value of 0,76V - thanks to Maison1 from win-raid.com for bringing this matter to my attention
Unlocked all sliders in the Nvidia VBIOSes for editing with Maxwell II BIOS Tweaker - thanks to WerePug from overclock.net for posting the way to do this
Acer Aspire E5-572G - BIOS 1.09c - Microcode 01
Acer Aspire E5-572G - BIOS 1.09c - Microcode 07
Acer Aspire E5-572G - BIOS 1.09c - Microcode 21
DeleteMicrocode Script for Windows
Acer Aspire E5-572G BIOS-ME-EC-FD Collection
Firstly I just want to thank everyone in this community. It's thanks to this site with it's information provided by the community that has made this possible.
Update #1 - Now working with OS X 10.10.4
Update #2 - Internal display working (no need for external display) - No performance loss, no paid software and still have sound
Update #3 (27th September 2016) - No longer using Windows 8.1 on EFI, now using Windows 10 on Bootcamp (BIOS)
So here is my guide!
I have a Mid 2012 15" Macbook Pro Retina with Intel HD4000 + GT650M inside.
I am running Windows 8.1 Pro which was installed via EFI (Not Bootcamp).
This guide requires no extra software (you get plug and play eGPU) and no soldering.
1x Akitio Thunder2
1x MSI GTX970 4G Gaming
1x Dell DA-2 220w power supply
2x PCI-e 6-pin Male to Dual 6-pin Female Power Y cable splitter
1x 5.5mm x 2.5mm DC barrel screw terminal adapter
1x Electrical tape
1x Hair Clip
1x 6pin to 8pin PCI cable (provided with graphics card as mine is 6+8pin)
Cost: £429.02 ($668.03 / €601.07)
First off, the software:
I used bootcamp to create a USB stick with Windows 8.1 Pro on it. Do not get the bootcamp software! (This caused the first problem for me later).
I then installed Windows on my Mac via the EFI boot option. I followed this excellent guide right here: https://www.reddit.com/r/mac/comment...bootcamp_guide
This was a long process as it meant making an up to date Time Machine backup of my OSX, wiping the whole drive, installing Windows and then reinstating OSX from my backup, so this took some time.
The next step is getting the drivers in Windows. If you have the same Mac as me, remember this! Usually if you install Windows via bootcamp for this model, you would use the 5.1.5621 bootcamp software. Do not do this. To get my drivers working in Windows I had to use bootcamp drivers from version 5.0.5033 instead of version 5.1.5621.
Also before you install those, go ahead and remove the Nvidia folder. Go into the bootcamp folder, into drivers and delete Nvidia. Now you can proceed to install the 5.0.5033 drivers.
A known issue with this model when installing Windows in EFI mode is you will not have sound on the internal speakers. I am 99% that there is no way to fix this issue. However due to the fact that also with this model Optimus does not work, meaning you must use an external display, this problem is then solved as you get sound via the sound device built into the graphics card.
So that's it for software. The benefit to installing Windows in EFI mode is that it makes the eGPU plug and play!
Update #1 - I now have my eGPU successfully running in OS X 10.10.4 too. Thanks to @goalque and his excellent script which automates the whole install process.
The eGPU will only work with an external screen connected however. You must connect from the eGPU to the display (not from the Macbook to the display).
The only thing to note here is that under 'Displays' in the system preferences, my Mac told me that the GT650M was powering the external display but it certainly was not. Also under system information you should see you eGPU and your display will be listed within that.
First thing is to connect up the power cables. It's pretty simple and requires no soldering at all.
You can see my photo below and a shitty diagram I made too. Feel free to reply if you need help explaining this.
If you have the paperclip/hairclip in the right place you will get a green light when switching it on like in the picture.
Then it's was as simple as plugging the graphics card into the Thunder2 enclosure, and connecting it all up.
Next I switched on the power for the eGPU, plugged the Thunderbolt cable in and switched on my Mac, proceeding to boot in to Windows.
First off it was not being recognised at all in Device Manager. (It should show up under display adapters).
The solution after much frustration was to simply plug it into the other Thunderbolt port on my laptop and plug it into the other Thunderbolt port on the Thunder2.
Then upon bootup I was greeted with 3 devices under display adapters. Happy times!
The final step was to install the drivers.
I downloaded the Nvidia drivers for the card from the Nvidia website and proceeded to install them. Half way through instillation - black screen - followed by system crash and reboot. Bad times.
I booted back into Windows again, went into Device Manager and under the display adapters I disabled the GT650M, then tried to install the drivers again and it worked. Upon reboot the Device Manger showed all three graphics cards (named correctly) as well as GeForce Experience showing the GTX970.
So that's about it!
I installed MSI Afterburner and 3DMark and played around with the clocks. I managed 8923 in Fire Strike 1.1 before overclocking and 9677 after. But oddly the results show up as from my GT650M. The card does show up on the results page as a secondary card though, and of course there is no way my GT650M would get that score! Also the clock speeds in the results for the GT650M are my clock speeds for the GT970. A little weird but I don't really care about that.
Update #2 - Internal display working (no need for external display)
So the two main limitations with this model of Macbook are the fact that you need an external display, and that you have no sound with an EFI Windows instillation. So I got around those limitations with this little device and three resistors:
It's a HDMI to VGA adapter with audio out. You can see the audio out here:
All you need to do is put 3x 75ohm resistors inside the VGA port to create a fake external display. You can see where the resistors need to go with this image:
So the deal with this is, any program started on the 'external screen' (being powered by the eGPU) will use the eGPU. So what you'll want to do is set the fake display as your main display. Then anything started on that display will be running from the eGPU. Now there is a little limitation here; only games that run in windowed mode will work (which is most). You'll want to start the game on the fake screen in windowed mode and then drag it over to your internal display.
So how do you grab from a display you can't see? Well, I found this free program called Dual Monitor Tools (it's free right here: Dual Monitor Tools - Home )
and what you can do in this program is set a keyboard shortcut to move the selected window over to the other display. So you click on the game in the task bar, and hit the shortcut you assigned and it'll pop over to the internal screen, but because it was launched on the fake screen, it'll be powered by the eGPU.
Simple as that, there's no performance hit either as you're just dragging the game to the other screen.
A good tip is to have the internal display set as default first, launch the game, go to options and set the game to windowed mode now, then quit and relaunch after you've changed the fake screen as your primary. Otherwise you might not be able to switch it with the shortcut while it's in full screen.
An issue I have:
I don't know if this will apply to others but I simply cannot boot in to Windows with my GT650M activated. My startup process is very odd, so I'll document it incase others have to do this.
To make my Windows even boot, I must have my GT650M disabled in device manger. But when I do this I cannot boot without the eGPU plugged in at all.
So what I have to do is make sure my GT650M is down (boot in safe mode to do this the first time, no need for eGPU attached when doing this).
Then with the eGPU plugged in, start up my laptop and chose the Windows boot option. The only way I know that Windows has successfully booted is the spinning white dots under the Windows logo on bootup will freeze. When my internal display freezes, I know Windows has loaded (this is when the desktop would appear on the external display) but of course we can't see that because it's a fake display.
So once the bootup freezes, I wait until my keyboard backlights come on, then I know the desktop has loaded on the fake display. (Or just wait about 10 seconds after the freeze). Now the next step is to activate the GT650M in device manger so that my internal screen works. Now for this I did the process on a proper external display to learn the key combination to do it blind. For me it as follows:
(Press START - cmd key)
type: device man
Down arrow x8
After I have done that, the frozen Windows logo will disappear and the screen will flicker for about 5 - 10 seconds before displaying my desktop.
Success! I can now control Windows from my internal display. Opening up the resolution tool will show 2 displays, the internal, and the fake external.
The only thing to remember is when I'm done, I must deactivate the GT650M in device manager again before shutting down. Deactivating it will not shut off the internal display, so it's not a problem to do that and shut down.
So that's it. I hope you don't have to do that process, but for me, that's the only way to do it. it's a slight pain but not too much bother, and it's certainly great not to have to use an external screen!
Update 3 (Removed EFI Win8.1, now using Win10 BIOS):
So I decided I want to use Windows 10 now for DirectX 12 gaming. This was a pretty simple process to setup. Hardware-wise it's all the same as above, software-wise is as follows.
Get yourself a copy eGPU Setup 1.2 (not 1.3). Big shout out to @nando4 for making it.
If you don't have EFI Windows on your Macbook, continue to the next paragraph.
I had to wipe my whole mac hard drive clean as the EFI partition of Win8.1 gets installed before OSX. So I made a Time Machine backup. Now to wipe the whole hard drive you must boot from a USB otherwise you can't wipe the drive you're using with the recovery on it. But I really didn't want to download 4GB or whatever size the latest OSX is just so I can use the recovery option (I don't need OSX as I'm using a Time Machine backup with it already). What I did was downloaded a piece of software called Carbon Copy Cloner (you can get a 30-day free trial), on here you have an option to clone the Recovery HD partition from you MacHD to another drive (in this case a USB). So I did this saving me the time of downloading the whole OSX just for it's recovery.
So all there was to do next is boot the recovery from the USB, wipe the entire drive and restore from my Time Machine backup.
Once in OSX load up the Bootcamp Assistant, plug in a USB (8GB or bigger), burn on Windows 10, download the drivers and create a Windows 10 installation. It's pretty straight forward with Bootcamp, just follow it all until you're in Windows 10 on your desktop. Once on the desktop I installed the Bootcamp software and shut down the system. I then plugged in the eGPU (not sure if you have to but I felt I should while installing the drivers for it), booted back up and installed the latest Nvidia drivers for my eGPU then shut the system down again. For the next steps I basically followed @w4vz's guide. Particularly just this part (I made some slight changes to parts that didn't quite translate to what I was seeing on my screen, I underlined the ones I have modified):
Unzip eGPU Setup 1.2 to c:\eGPU run setup-disk-image (as admin user) Restart and load eGPU Setup 1.2, select option 2 Do PCI compaction all exept sata etc etc. After it's all done make sure you have PCI WRITE and ALL ALLOC showing yes on the right side panel Optional: If freeze at the bootloader: edit PCI.BAT replacing a:x.x and b:x.x with 0a:x.x and 0b:x.x (I only found A occurences in mine) (in the editor alt/option+F to access the file menu) Optional: If the settings are not kept after reboot: edit Startup.bat by adding REM in front of all "call vidinit" like so: REM call vidinit... (in the editor alt/option+F to access the file menu) Run startup.bat, then Test Run Chainloader, then Test. After this you should be taken back to the main menu Select eGPU Setup 1.2 again and now select (default) option 1
From now on all you need to do to get your eGPU working is boot Windows, select eGPU Setup 1.2 and press 1
Any questions just ask and I'll help in any way I can.
Some days ago i have bought Dream Machines ( Clevo p775dm3-g) with GTX 1080, once i received package i started to test it, and it was hard to believe but i have very low performance. My config:
VGA GTX 1080
16GB DDR4 2133MHz
Windows 10 PRO
Samsung NVMe 950 EVO
All test where with native resolution 1920x1080
3dMark Firestrike : 8900~11000 (it is not constant)
3dMark Time Spy : 6200~6800
Overwatch (EPIC) : 45~80 FPS
Witcher 3 (UBER) : 40~87 FPS
I have newest drivers for 1080, BIOS is up to date.
Do you have any idea why performace is so low or why there is large variance ?
Current Status: HELP NEEDED!
Hardware stuff stopped by stripped screw Need wireless adapter troubleshooting
bPlus PE4C V3.0 Adapter (mPCIe connector version) MSI NVidia GTX 970 a PSU (this is still in the mail from a friend so I don't remember the model) USB Wireless Adapter (I bought this one but it's being terrible) (optional) mPCIe flexible extender cable (I use this to help keep the laptop mobile)
Part 1: Open the laptop
Part 2: Remove the WiFi card
Part 3: Connect the extender (or the bPlus board if you're not using the extender)
Part 4: Connect the graphics card and PSU
Part 5: Software and integration
Part 1: Opening the laptop
Unplug your laptop and power it down. Place it upside-down in front of you so that the labels are upright. Starting from the top left, unscrew the screws around the outside of the case. Move to the three on the inside, saving the middle one for last. Note that the middle screw will not unscrew all the way. Just unscrew it until it's loose; you'll push it out from the other side in a moment. Insert a long, thin object such as an unbent paperclip into the indicated screw holes. This will pop the keyboard off the front of the laptop. Gently pull up the rest of the keyboard. The keyboard will be connected by two wires. You can choose to disconnect these, but leaving them attached is fine and less annoying. Lift the keyboard out of the way to find the middle hole with the screw that doesn't unscrew all the way. Using your long object, poke the screw out. At this point, the disk drive (or placeholder if you don't have one) will be loose, so if you're going to remove it (like I did), feel free to slide it out. Starting from the disk drive hole or a corner, pull the cover off the back of the laptop. You will hear it click as it goes.
Part 2: Removing the WiFi card
Now that the laptop is open, locate the mPCIe slot. Gently disconnect the two antenna wires by pulling them out at their heads. If you want to preserve the internal wireless card for later use, be very careful with this step; I accidentally crushed one of the wire terminals without even trying. Remove the screw which holds the card in place. Unfortunately, the people at Lenovo made this screw out of reconstituted sewage instead of metal, so chances are it will become 100% stripped the moment you touch it. [more to come eventually, including picture embedding]
Help I need right now:
ANY ideas for removing the stripped screw. I have tried everything, and nothing has worked so far.
Hey Guys and Tech Inferno Team,
i am following this Forum for quite some Time now, but unfortunatly i didnt took part in any Discussion as of yet. Which is kinda sad, because i don`t have the permission to download the unlocked VBios for my GPU to try out some things.
So i am a noob here and hope you guys have some Mercy with me, since i don`t even know, if i`m posting this in the right (sub)forum.
I have this aging Dragon Edition: https://de.msi.com/Laptop/GT70_Dragon_Edition.html#hero-specification and i am trying to overclock my GPU (NV GTX 675MX 4GB) with MSI Afterburner but its locked at +135MHz Core Clock.
So before i have the possibility to go higher (with unlocked VBios), i want to ask you guys some questions:
1. Is it worth to unlock my GPU to get some more FPS in Games? Has this Card some OC potential, or is it so minor to better not even try it? Maybe someone has tried to OC this GPU and can give some information about it.
2. What is the max Temperature this GPU can handle? Just to know, to better not raise Core Clock anymore.
3. Does raising the Memory Clock have any big impact on performance? Do i need to adjust the Memory Clock in order to the Core Clock? What is the max i can go for Memory Clock, since it doesn`t seem to be locked or im just to noobish.
4. Are there any Upgrade Kits out there, to change the GPU for lets say a GTX 980m or even a GTX 1080m? If it`s possible, can i change the CPU aswell?
So much questions... i hope you guys can read it, since my english is not the best and that you don`t see this Thread like a spam. I am open for constructive criticism and any suggestions you can give. Any Help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance