Jump to content

Recommended Posts

First of all, let me say I haven't finished yet. I'm still working on it and will update this thread from time to time due to much work at the moment.

When I fitted my 940xm and the 7970m I got really mad of the heat and the fan noises even in idle mode. So I decided to get it all cooled with a silent, most important quiet, external water cooling system. I checked the internet and found evth I need to get it done. The most difficult thing was to find slim water blocks to cover the dies. I will list all the parts I used with article number and website if you're interested at the end of this post.

First the overview. These parts are going to be used:

post-4834-14494993752392_thumb.jpg

Actually not much, so let's start.

I start tubing at the inner hose socket of the reserator. This is the place where the pump is placed behind. You have to use a 10/8mm hose. By this, 10mm means the outside diameter of the hose, 8mm means the inside diameter. This is very important to know by everything you do on water cooling systems due to different fittings, barbs or reducers.

Fit the hose and tighten it well with a spanner.

post-4834-14494993752814_thumb.jpg

Now you need a reducer to get on a 8/6mm hose. This is necessary to get in fitted to the chiller.

post-4834-1449499375326_thumb.jpg

At the other end you need to fit the 8/6mm hose.

After this is done the 8/6mm hose leads into the chiller. A chiller pushs down your temps to a predefined value set by you, the minimum you can get theoretically is +3°C. Basically you can say it works like a refrigerator. This is very helpfully when you start gaming or other intense work on the laptop to keep the temps low.

Here are some pics of it.

post-4834-14494993754154_thumb.jpg

To get the hose fitted the first custom made had to be done. Maybe I didn't know how it actually works, but I had no clue how else to do it without a modification...

As you can see on the picture, the 1/4" adapter didn't fit to the chiller's nozzle. I really don't know what's the original idea by the developers.

post-4834-14494993754378_thumb.jpg

So the first adjustment had to be made. Cut the end of the nozzle as you can see on the pic.

post-4834-14494993754619_thumb.jpg

When this was done I noticed really pour casting quality inside the nozzle. This would massively reduce your flow speed.

post-4834-14494993754841_thumb.jpg

So I used a drill to get it out.

post-4834-14494993755082_thumb.jpg

Finally I got an outside diameter of 13mm at the nozzle.

post-4834-1449499375531_thumb.jpg

The adapter has 12mm inside diameter

post-4834-14494993755527_thumb.jpg

So just perfect to cut a M14 thread to both parts.

post-4834-14494993755997_thumb.jpg

Unfortunately I couldn't get closer due to the layout of the die.

post-4834-14494993756226_thumb.jpg

two washers solve this problem to get it proper tightened.

post-4834-1449499368765_thumb.jpg

To get it proper sealed I used teflon tape. Just the best way to get something sealed. Don't do it without any sealing!

post-4834-14494993756458_thumb.jpg

Use some Vaseline before you stick in the nozzles.

post-4834-14494993756686_thumb.jpg

Do the same with second side of course. At the end it'll look like that.

post-4834-14494993687951_thumb.jpg

Let's get to the CPU water block. I purchased the Thermaltake CL-W0052 Tide Water, originally made for desktop PCs to cool down the graphics card, on ebay to get all the stuff I'll need to do it. I chose that one because the water block has just a height of 8mm. Also all the hoses and clamps will be helpful.

post-4834-14494993688184_thumb.jpg

First drain the coolant.

post-4834-14494993688439_thumb.jpg

Then I opened the chassis and robbed all hoses and clamps. You'll need them in a couple of minutes. They're all bonded quite well, so just cut them at the ends.

post-4834-14494993688652_thumb.jpg

I also cut and removed the hoses of the water block itself, just to make sure everything is okay. I didn't want to get upset when I filled the system with water. So I cut them and removed the old adhesive.

post-4834-14494993689215_thumb.jpg

I then removed the original cpu heatsink

post-4834-14494993689494_thumb.jpg

and compared the die with the water block

post-4834-14494993689774_thumb.jpg

The water block as it was out from the box was just a touch too small to fit correctly onto the die. So I just removed the tape around the block. Now it was ready to get fitted.

All I needed to do was loosing the existing bolts on the water block and tightened it with M2.5x20 hex nut bolts into the existing holes. At the end it looks like that.

post-4834-14494993691054_thumb.jpg

By the way, the mosfet heatsinks came with the tide water vga cooler. I also fitted the black hoses as they were, just without the glew and it still seals perfectly.

To get the hoses guided out of the laptop you need to remove your fan control at the back of your laptop. When you're doing this, be careful not to touch the chassis as I did with whatever you use. I used the dremel and didn't see it for a while. What a shame!

post-4834-14494993748215_thumb.jpg

Nevermind, so let's get over to the gpu side. I bought a very tiny water block with just 15x15x7mm dimensions to not to exceed the height. So may be later I will be able to fit the backplate cover again.

post-4834-1449499369129_thumb.jpg

The water blocks would actually fit on the die, perfectly. But due to the layout of the gpu die the block just fits in diagonal postion. So useless for me.

post-4834-1449499374878_thumb.jpg

To get the water block in the right direction I unsoldered the copper plate of the original heatsink. That one has got the right dimensions to get this solved.

post-4834-14494993749822_thumb.jpg

Clean the copper plate from the old tin on top by using the Dremel or sandpaper.

post-4834-14494993750054_thumb.jpg

At the end that's the way it should work. Just to mention, also the holder came with Thermaltake tide water cooler. The bolts I bought seperatly on ebay. They are M1.6x20 but too long, so I cut them down to 15mm. Now they fit into the existing holes and push down the block properly

post-4834-14494993750303_thumb.jpg

Use now the -->small<-- black hoses robbed from Thermaltake chassis. These are the inside hoses, they're smaller. You need to use some adhesive because the clamps coming with the hoses are just a way too big and don't keep it tight to nozzle.

post-4834-14494993750583_thumb.jpg

Now just add some thermal paste between copper plate and die, and copper plate and water block. Tighten it all down.

post-4834-14494993750809_thumb.jpg

Finally it looks like that.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5105[/ATTACH]

hoses leaded through the fan grill, gpu side. I mention again, just temporarily cause I'm still waiting for parts. in progress...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5107[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]5106[/ATTACH]

cpu side

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5108[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5109[/ATTACH]

The hose laying is actually just in common sense. Nothing particular I should mention.

Reserator -> 10/8mm hose -> 10/8mm to 8/6mm reducer -> 1/4" compression fitting -> 1/4" adapter for chiller -> chiller nozzle -> chiller -> nozzle, adapter, fitting -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter

post-4834-14494993756927_thumb.jpg

first end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> quick coupling -> black hose (termaltake tide water) -> cpu block inlet-> cpu outlet -> black hose -> quick coupling -> 8/6mm -> Y-splitter

second end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> 6mm barb -> small black hose (thermaltake tide water) -> gpu block inlet -> gpu outlet -> small black hose -> 6mm barb -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter

|

Y-splitter -> 8/6mm hose -> 10/8 to 8/6mm reducer -> reserator

update in progress...

post-4834-14494993688951_thumb.jpg

post-4834-1449499369008_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993690328_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993690573_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993690812_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993748514_thumb.jpg

post-4834-1449499374904_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993749304_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993749564_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993752577_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753043_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753491_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753752_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753955_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993755753_thumb.jpg

  • Thumbs Up 15

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You sir are my hero! Awesome work. I love the pics you did amazing. Keep up the outstanding modding!

Paranoid Galaxy S3 on Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

updated the pics. nearly all working now. need to figure out what's worng with the others. tomorrow I will add temperatures and benchmarks. Let's see if I can get higher clocks without throttling. But now it's time for a couple of beer :)

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4ghz 920xm with 1050/1650 7970m ftw :P okay maybe not. Im sure there is plenty of potential though. :)

Paranoid Galaxy S3 on Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well, now the bottleneck will be the supply of adequate power by the mobo...

that's true, unfortunately :(

but even by moderate OCing the cpu and gpu, I got drops due to high temps on the gpu. So now it's quite more stable and should get just a bit more performance. Maybe there's a little bird, telling me a mobo mod to get some more power on the mobo ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent write up, and nice work! I have to ask though, for all this the system will be tied to the desk, why not just get a desktop?

Sent from my Samsung Captivate/ICS CM9 via Tapatalk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Excellent write up, and nice work! I have to ask though, for all this the system will be tied to the desk, why not just get a desktop?

Sent from my Samsung Captivate/ICS CM9 via Tapatalk.

Because I already have a laptop^^ a desktop is much more expensive and wouldn't be something special, actually ;)

I don't need the laptop as a "laptop" anymore. Got a asus transformer tablet with keyboard. So no reason to keep the heavy laptop handy. Also it'll be an eye catcher once all is propper placed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice!

Best example of water cooling on a notebook that I have seen online.

Can't wait for more updates.

I could see myself following this guide some day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jahsinn, awesome mod! Thats a lot of dedication and effort. Since you overclock your GPU. What are the voltage on the GPU and whats your CPU overclock settings at? Since you're eliminated thermal throttling and your temps are absolutely amazing, brilliant even.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh how I miss my days of liquid cooling. My desktop was fitted with a beauty 3/4' ID setup that worked wonders and was quiet as could be. This brings me back! I switched back to regular air cooling since I wouldn't have the time to change the coolant every now and then or refit the waterblocks when I changed my hardware when I went to university.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I too look forward to seeing some data regarding this. :) Nice work!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice DIY you got there, make me want to mod my machine in a similar way. plz give us updates on the temp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting for me - as I started something similar with my 8560p EliteBook. Now what's different - I abandoned the original shell which also made me free to use rather awkward desktop water blocks for now.

Display is on the same side as keyboard, water pump is AlphaCool bulk bottom with custom top of epoxy resine. 160 mm fan (advertised as 230mm as yes - 160 is propeler itself) makes the cooling. I am rather curious about the pics attached here - as a newcomer I am not allowed to see them yet. This post however seems as a lucky mod, now I wonder where have the tems gone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing that you did this with M15x, but do you have an M18x R1/R2 to try it with? I feel like watercooling that will yield much better returns for the work you put in, lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not if the m15x is the primary machine. Don't write the little machine off yet I have the CPU at 3.7 - 4ghz on heavily modded air let alone water!

This mod could yield pretty amazing results!

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Terriikk
      Hey guys, I have an Alienware m14x R2, and I have been trying to get access to the BIOS so that I can change the boot options (Everything is locked, I am unsure if someone set a password of if these are locked by default).I've tried updating the BIOS, and resetting the CMOS and nothing has changed this. Would anyone know if there are other options I can explore? Thank you. 
    • By danger007
      Well I am back, sort of.
       
      Reminder of Stats
      *Alienware M17x R4 (bought June 2012) w/ Intel i7 3720QM@2.6ghz (Ivy Bridge) including the igpu Intel 4000 HD series
      8GB Ram, 17 Inch, SoundBlaster software only Recon 3DI, and the normal stuff that comes with it
      *Graphics Card:  Originally shipped 660m, upgraded to 7970m, 7970m died early, with community help moved to MSI 4GB 680M (flashed to Dell thanks to @svl7) and installed I think 314.xx drivers with help from many (sorry can't remember everyone but notable was @J95), was running 7970m in whatever they called their hybrid drivers, the 680m is run in Optimus)
      *OS:  Windows 7 64bit Service Pack 1
      *Storage:  Msata 1tb Samsung 850 Evo, 2 Hitachi 1TB 7200 rpm 2.5" drives (yes I used all 3 GB or will)
       
      So what will you read.  What got me started on this project and then using all the resources on the net, from @J95 and legions of others I owe all credit for the project too.  Please note I take no credit, take no rights, this is simply something to help others out based on working with what has already been laid down for us.   Installing the latest Nvidia 417.67 mobile/notebook drivers for a 680m for Windows 7 Service Pack 1 on Alienware M17x R4
       
      When I got things up and running back in 2016/2017 with the noted people above I saw a new driver and with the STO game having a driver issue I upgraded to it.  Now I didn't notice anything wrong, the game worked and so paid no attention.  When I started to get unable to eject 680m error messages I thought great who got this, ejecting a gpu, wrong.  I then tried the uninstall Intel, Nvidia, use DDU in Safe Mode, disable AV/Firewall, disable driver enforcement, etc then reinstall intel, nvidia (removing certain folders) with the modified inf but now the game said it couldn't find any feature set and wouldn't let me play.  Finally removing the Nvidia drivers allowed at least the iGPU to run the game.  Used Unigine Heaven 4.0 to encounter more errors with Nvidia.
       
      I moved back to my msata install of windows 7 that I haven't had a chance to work on since 2017 (i know pathetic) that only had system drivers, expired Norton, and not yet registered/activation.  Seems fine.  Tried to run Heaven, same error.  Well after 3 days of trying to duplicate what I had been instructed to do, I finally sat down with a nice big bottle of Fiji Water (courtesy of lovely lady at the Oscars in almost every background pic) and decided I was determined to fix things.   I downloaded the 419.67, copied the nv_dispi.inf & nvdmi.inf to get to work.  After reading the content and using comparisons once again from the noted individuals and the legions of other, I had them modified and decided to give it a try on the clean win 7 install from 2 years ago.  After the uninstall, ddu, deleting folders, copying mod. inf to their directory (also included the change to setup.cfg - credit once again goes to individuals like @J95), gyrxiur, DeathAngel , creator of Notepad++, sora and many others) I was able to launch the Heaven 4.0 Benchmark.  So I am assuming that I have the new 419.67 working on my system.  I did a benchmark of the 680m in 419.67 with unigine Heaven 4 to go with the files I am posting.  Please note the bios was provided by I believe @svl7 (sorry if I got wrong person) and no overclocking of it other than what the changed vbios did.
       
      I am attaching below the following:
      Nvidia 419.67 modified inf and config - nvdmi.inf, nv_dispi.inf, setup.cfg (no credit to me all credit belongs to others)
      The Unigine benchmark results (txt file).
       
      Now the shortened legalize warning
      Please remember you are to take all risk when using modified inf files, I take no responsibility (no virus or other dildrus included) if they don't work with your GPU.  The usual.
       
      This was tested and used on Alienware M17x R4 running the last bios they released A12 or A13 and so it the system bios is not modified at all, the card is a MSI 680m 4Gb flashed vbios to Dell 680m 4GB, and installed in Windows 7 64bit Service Pack 1.  Hopefully if you have only a different card you can make any minor adjustments you need to.  
       
      Please let me know how they work.  I will also be reporting back on the reinstall on my other laptop install I use to play Neverwinter/ Star Trek Online - was suppose to be a temp solution till new install was finished, and if they worked on it as well.
      Alienware M17x R4 680m 419.67 Mod Inf and Setup and Heaven 4 Benchmark.zip
    • By Edrc
      Hello,
       
      I am new on this forum, so I am sorry if posting at the wrong place. It's been 2 weeks that I am searching how to make my GTX 980M 8GB working Inside my Alienware 17 R1 (June 2014, i7 4710MQ, 60 Herts Display, OPTIMUS and the GTX 880M Inside died.)
      After "quickly" looking some forums, I saw that a 980M would easily fit Inside … but maybe I was wrong.
       
      Hardware wasn't a problem. I've also could install drivers by modding the nvdmi or nvcvi. inf files. The card was recognied BUT :
      the clock speed is locked a 135 or 405 Mherts and fan is not runing when booted up.
      I tried to flash vBios with nvflash and some ROM I found on vBios collection … but no way to get this working properly.
       
      So, i'm coming here. I've seen many people talking about Prema or svl7 or other big boss in the place … but ? how ? where ? when ?
       
      Inside the peripherial manager I have this in remote acces path : PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1617&SUBSYS_05AA1028&REV_A1\4&D590A51&0&0008
      So I assume my GTX 980M card ID is 1617 and vendor and PC Model are 05AA 1028.
      But near the "Standard Microsoft Video Card" there is a yellow exclamation point and Inside details it says "this peripherial doesn't work properly" when no Nvidia drivers installed.
      I could find some vBios with 1617 (Asus) but black screen at boot up. Since laptop model where not the same .. probably.
      And I wasn't able to find 1617 with the existing 05AA 1028 … as the GTX 980M was not an option for my model. (AW 17 R1 2014 ,60Herts)
      I tried 353.60, 382.33 and 419.35 drivers. The latest one seems easier to install but longer.
       
      BIOS is A16 from Dell. And I am using Windows 10. Got a Dell 330W brick. 
       
      I saw a guy with the exact model as me, he gets a modded vBios especially for his configuration, then everything worked easily … but can't find the topic again
       
      I guess depending on the card info and the laptop model … a dedicated vBios is required … 
       
      So, If anyone here got some informations or any kind of help for me, it would be very nice.
       
      Thanks for reading and help.  
       
      PS: there are a lot of files, pictures and links that I can't see on this forum .. even after registration …. 
       
    • By Sleezy
      Troubleshooting Modified driver Installation. If you are able to successfully modify the .inf to install GPU driver but games still using dedicated graphics or crashing, this is how I got it to work. Also link to the instructions I used to modify the .inf (Credit to Yuki Rea Founder and Creator of null-src.com) That tutorial can be found here https://null-src.com/posts/nvidia-notebook-driver-inf-mod/post.php
       
       

      Soapbox - Gaming Laptop GPU Upgrade
    • By Adomis63
      Hi guys,
       
      I'm sorry for making another thread just for this but I really wanted to pick your brains on this!
       
      I have an m15x with a 770m running windows 7 and everything works. Rock. Solid. I'm pretty happy with it. Since windows 7 is on it's way out, I would like to upgrade to windows 10. Now I've looked into it before and had a really hard time getting the 770m to behave nicely and had all these issues with green/yellow/pink screens and I remember it being a miracle I got it to work on 7 as good as it does.
       
      My question is how well does the 970m install vs the 770m - particularly on windows 10? I would buy it in a heartbeat if it makes the install less tedious with the colored screens and all that. Especially if all the functions work on it! I have been searching the internet and I cannot find nearly as many problems with the 970m as I could with the 770m, or am I just  not looking in the right places?
       
      Thanks a million!
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.