sangemaru Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 If an I3 overheats in this machine, I'd seriously advise you to check the paste job and heatsink seating. That's like a seriously low TDP CPU. Although, yes, if that doesn't solve your issues maybe a better fan controller would. In this case, the fan was already seriously undervolted and spinning at a low speed, that's why the controller was an option. If your brother's machine doesn't have a similar issue, you'd have to find alternative solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoName123456 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 If an I3 overheats in this machine, I'd seriously advise you to check the paste job and heatsink seating. That's like a seriously low TDP CPU. Although, yes, if that doesn't solve your issues maybe a better fan controller would. In this case, the fan was already seriously undervolted and spinning at a low speed, that's why the controller was an option. If your brother's machine doesn't have a similar issue, you'd have to find alternative solutions.Well, that i3 still has 35w TDP and i just changed the thermal paste and cut hole in plastic above the fan and now i3 and 540m stays in 80c range but thats still too hot. Cant i just make switch when it takes pwm signal from pc and when it doesnt get any signal at all? If i remember correctly, if a fan doesnt get pwm signal, it just runs at full speed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sangemaru Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Depends. For example the fan on my machine was controlled through voltage pulsing. If it didn't get 'signal', it didn't spin.My recommendation is, look for and purchase some Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad or Liquid Ultra metal paste. The pad is good if your heatsink mount is good and flush. Otherwise, use the paste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovancic Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Where did he took 5V from? I tried from USB, but it wont work as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovancic Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Well, here are some sad facts: You can buy this controller on ebay link(Smart Speed Controller for Laptop Notebook Cooling Fan DC 5V 2 3 Pins | eBay) but it will not work as it should if you do not have cooler (fan) like this one: This fan is 5V rated and can be found only on i7 versions. i5 version looks like this and is about 3.5V rated. Acer made a seriously d**k move with this. Good news is that they are compatible. Buy cooler for i7 and use Fan Controller utility from Acer, or install Smart Speed Controller in laptop case and overheating is history. Unfortunately, there are none to buy at EBay at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackShArk Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Sorry if in the wrong topic, but whether the solution will work with BIOS flashing in Packard Bell TS 11 HR? I ask because my laptop has the same motherboard as the one about which there is a discussion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sangemaru Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Hi there.Well, there's basically no BIOS flashing involved in this solution, it's strictly a hardware mod, so no, not really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadavre Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Hi again! I have now given up on using this laptop as an actual laptop and have mounted a 80mm chassi fan that blows air into it by hardmodding the chassi. However, since the original fan pins are only going for 3.3v it doesn't do much airflow. However, the idle temp is now around 35C instead of 65C (yay!), but as soon as I play games it runs rather hot! So I need to know where to get the 5v output from, but I'm unable to view the attached images in the first post due to lack of posts, so I figured I'll post here and ask if someone could share the pictures some other way or share their knowledge around this motherboard. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sangemaru Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Here you go mate. The inductors in the top of the pic (highlighted red) are the source for the 5V. Make sure you have a multimeter to check which trace exactly. I just soldered a wire on the 5V trace. I think it's from the SATA ports.http://imgur.com/vNtnUmp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadavre Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Here you go mate. The inductors in the top of the pic (highlighted red) are the source for the 5V. Make sure you have a multimeter to check which trace exactly. I just soldered a wire on the 5V trace. I think it's from the SATA ports.ImgurThanks a lot! So could the pwm (or whatever it is) and ground still be where the fan pins are and just take the + from the 5v trace then? Or should I solder the cable to the ground near the 5v trace?I'm just making sure so I'm not going to fry the motherboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sangemaru Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 I honestly don't remember. I think i used the ground near the 5v trace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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